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newest project by bubbajoexxx
Started on: 09-12-2003 06:18 PM
Replies: 3097 (358093 views)
Last post by: David Hambleton on 08-31-2017 09:18 PM
Fiero2m8
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Report this Post06-10-2011 10:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Removed the starter as it worked itself loose at the adjuster bolts.
Retorqued with Loc-tite.


Checked new AC Delco standard plugs gapped to 30thou.
Mixture and heat range look good so far as they are all this tan colour:

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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post06-10-2011 10:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by ezramore:
Can you box in the vally cover to go over the link


Thought about it but I didn't want to cover the billet intake manifolds.
Probably something I can experiment with next winter.

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Report this Post06-13-2011 01:05 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I solved another issue I was having with the shifter as it needed to be manhandled like an old lambo gearbox.
Turns out it just needed a tuneup and now I have nice crisp short throws with no more effort than a stock Fiero.
Here are the pictures:

Clutch linkage disassembled as I had some sticky helm joints and I wanted to reset the neutral position of the shifter:


Side shifter rod removed from transaxle after marking the adjustment location.
I knew that it was already in the ideal spot through previous trial and error:


Rod is cleaned and checked to ensure it wasn't bent:


Reinstalled adjustment screw pin in original location.
Shaft guide shimmed with washer on top rear to align with adapter plate sleeve (needed to drop angle a little to remove binding):


Helm joints cleaned and adjusted for smooth operation:


A little bit of grease was applied at the sleeve and linkage could now easily move by hand.
Success
Another fine tuning issue crossed off the list...

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 06-13-2011).]

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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post06-16-2011 12:03 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Recently I noticed that my throttle cable travel didn't allow for Wide Open Throttle - they were opening only 3/4 vs. full as shown here:


Solution was to relocate and adjust the cable from the outer hole to the inner hole on the arm requiring less cable travel to achieve WOT:


Here is an overhead shot of the new setup:


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Report this Post06-18-2011 12:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

In order to start reassembling body panels, some need the underside painted as they are partially visible when installed.
Usually this would be done prior to the paint shops work, but this way they didn't need to worry about masking or overspray saving them time and me money.
I just had to be careful not to get any overspray on my new paint job.
Here are the pictures of the rear clip that I started with since it goes on first:


My first coat was I semi-gloss black, but I later decided that flat black looked better:


Then I flipped it over and did a third coat to ensure I had complete coverage:


Glad to report that the first panel is back on the Fiero to stay since engine bay is near completion:

------------------

Indy Northstar-Stretch ~ LT1-NOS Roadster

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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post06-18-2011 12:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by ezramore:

Just a thought where the rad hose rests on the sharp metal edge of the cut mesh.

http://www.directindustry.c...ors-11859-31825.html


Hi ezramore,

Got around to protecting the stainless rad hose similar to as suggested:

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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post06-18-2011 12:34 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by ezramore:

Can you box in the vally cover to go over the link


I experimented with this setup (above the linkage) after installing the exhaust wrap, let me know what you think...

I also went with paint to match the valve covers.

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Report this Post06-18-2011 12:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I saw the taillight tinting paint in the Performance Improvements flyer so I thought I'd give it a try.

Before:


After:

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Mystik
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Report this Post06-19-2011 03:04 AM Click Here to See the Profile for MystikSend a Private Message to MystikEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:


Thanks for feedback - here's the yard info...
http://www.millersauto.com/


Thank you so much for this. I've been searching all around. I'll have to go visit someday.

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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post06-20-2011 10:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

This past weekend's progress was made painting the underside of body panels.
The decklid was done in flat black and the rest in gloss black to match the chassis.
Most of this won't be seen but this was my chance to cover the bare fiberglass and make it easier to keep looking nice.







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Report this Post06-25-2011 08:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

More progress today on body with rear clip attached with all new hardware.
Rear 1/4 panels and rear bumper cover mounted.



Good news is tailights look great.
Bad news is they don't work.
There is power at the bulb sockets with light switch on but I'm guessing no ground.
The rear marker lights, license plate lighting and reverse lights all work.
The sequential box is working as I can hear it clicking when the hazard lights are turned on.
These tailights both plug into the box and also plug in to each other to split a power feed.
The only other wire is a yellow wire which I connected back to where I had previously cut it.
There is also a green feed wire from the harness I labelled "Parking Lights" which has 12V+ when switch turned on.
Anyways I was getting frustrated since it worked fine when I removed it.
However that was almost 2 years ago - my memory is good but short.






I can't remember how the lights get their ground, if anyone has ideas let me know.

I'm going to come back to that problem later...

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bubbajoexxx
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Report this Post06-25-2011 08:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for bubbajoexxxClick Here to visit bubbajoexxx's HomePageClick Here to Email bubbajoexxxSend a Private Message to bubbajoexxxEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

that question is moot as I am the only one who knows how the box works since I built it

did you connect the black wire for the ground and the power feed to the box

[This message has been edited by bubbajoexxx (edited 06-25-2011).]

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Report this Post06-25-2011 08:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Y
 
quote
Originally posted by bubbajoexxx:

that question is moot as I am the only one who knows how the box works since I built it

did you connect the black wire for the ground and the power feed to the box



Good point Joe.
The red and black to the box were never disconnected however I will have to remove wiring loom to double check.

I will call you tomorrow when I'm back in front of the car.
Thanks,
Ryan

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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post06-27-2011 08:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Look what I found in the wiring loom...it's usually something simple.


Now yellow to yellow brown to brown and black to black and parking lights work.
Only new issue is one flasher doesn't work and it's an issue coming from the box (black wires from box and green to lights).
The wire I marked with yellow tape is the feed wire with no intermittent +12V.


Joe I will call you Tuesday night once I open the box up...

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Report this Post06-27-2011 08:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

2nd paint casuality as door panel was dropped on the driveway (first one was a clear coat scratch on the front apron)


There are definitely some benefits painting the panels on the Fiero.
Once it's all together it getting a visit to the painter to fix blemishes and buffing etc.

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Report this Post06-28-2011 10:46 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 1988holleyformulaSend a Private Message to 1988holleyformulaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:

2nd paint casuality as door panel was dropped on the driveway (first one was a clear coat scratch on the front apron)

There are definitely some benefits painting the panels on the Fiero.
Once it's all together it getting a visit to the painter to fix blemishes and buffing etc.


Hey! Stop ruining the paint before we get a completed shot! Hahaha, hopefully those can be touched up for a decent price. Hadn't looked in here for a week or two, good to see all the progress! Keep it up

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Report this Post06-29-2011 11:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Thanks for looking.

After opening and testing the sequential light box, I found the relay that failed as bypassing it caused the bulb to light continuously.
Thanks to a tip from Bubbajoe, today I was able to buy spares of the exact relay for $4 each.
Place is called A1 Electronics Surplus in Toronto.
Here is a picture of what Bubbajoe built.


I will be swapping out the relay and soldering the new one in.

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Report this Post07-05-2011 12:01 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Relay removed and replaced with new one soldered in...



Today the roof panel was delivered
Looks good however this particular roof panel appears to need some attention to the sunroof tracks that I only noticed when the seal was removed.


LED markers are also painted, next we're doing the 1/4 windows.
Working on installing rear apron, rear wheel wells and finishing rear lighting.

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Report this Post07-05-2011 12:39 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Table of contents updated on page 55

Rear air dam modified to accomodate Z06 rear swar bar:


Even little things like new 1/4 window vents are installed:

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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post07-05-2011 12:41 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Question for Bubbajoe - what's this for?

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speed sencer

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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post07-05-2011 04:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by bubbajoexxx:

speed sencer


Great thanks - I'll extend it down to the rear of the transaxle.

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Report this Post07-13-2011 11:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Old rotted sunroof tracks are removed ready for new tracks and Fiero Store sunroof seal.

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Report this Post07-22-2011 12:04 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Finally got some time to put the sunroof tracks in so I can reattach the roof panel.


I used rivets like the factory did as both the roof panels I had attached this way.


Masked and painted flat black.


Ready for new sunroof seal.


Was able to convince Speedy Glass to sell me their final roll of butyl tape for $5 since I promised it was not for the windshield.


Also dropped off door handles to painter (other ones went missing...) but these ones are going to be shaped to match smooth molding.

Let me know where I can get new torsion springs for the handles as one is missing and other is rusty.

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 07-22-2011).]

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Report this Post07-22-2011 11:30 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Gokart MozartClick Here to visit Gokart Mozart's HomePageSend a Private Message to Gokart MozartEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

[This message has been edited by Gokart Mozart (edited 07-22-2011).]

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Report this Post08-17-2011 01:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Sorry just getting back into the project now that I'm back from vacation where I was tinkering with my new daily driver toy.
It's a 02 SAAB 9-3 Viggen Convertible (exactly like the one my brother had and these are pretty rare in Canada).



If you don't know what a "Viggen" was, more info here:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saab_9-3

More updates on the newest project very soon.
Cheers,
Fiero2m8

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Report this Post08-21-2011 01:12 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Roof panel and sunroof seal installed:


Windshield trim re-installed:


Engine hatch was reassembled by first installing the glass on the hinges.


Then the rear decklid was aligned and grafted to the glass with butyl and nuts/bolts:


Heat grill to be fabricated for new opening before rear spoiler can go on:


Lock cylinder, latch and struts are back on too.

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Report this Post08-21-2011 02:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for kennnClick Here to Email kennnSend a Private Message to kennnEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

It appears to me that the engine compartment vent area will be in a high pressure area given that the spoiler will be adjacent. It seems that the high pressure would negate the scavenging of the engine compartment air. What do you think? Perhaps if the vent were located behind the spoiler (a negative pressure area) it might function better. Just some thoughts. I'm looking forward to your machine getting on the road and getting sorted. It's a terrific design.

Ken

------------------
'88 Formula V6
'88 GT TPI V8

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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post08-21-2011 10:25 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by kennn:

It appears to me that the engine compartment vent area will be in a high pressure area given that the spoiler will be adjacent. It seems that the high pressure would negate the scavenging of the engine compartment air. What do you think? Perhaps if the vent were located behind the spoiler (a negative pressure area) it might function better. Just some thoughts. I'm looking forward to your machine getting on the road and getting sorted. It's a terrific design.

Ken



Thanks Ken, glad you like the design!

The air path while car is in motion is through the side scoops and out the rear just below the bumper.
I agree that the scavenging will only work when stationary as the vent is directly above the hot exhaust so the warm air will have a path out.
The other use for the decklid vent was to allow warm air to be forced downward towards the rear vent while in motion.
Engine temp and under glass temps were not an issue when it was last on the road.
In fact my LT1 Roadster was much warmer in the engine compartment probably due to the cramped engine bay (no 12" wheelbase stretch in that one).
I guess I could try a video with air streamers to check the theory one day, but now that everything is painted, body mods will be minor going forward

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Report this Post08-21-2011 10:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Time to put the front fenders on now that roof panel is on...
Started with mounting the moldings to the fender as they were painted separately:


I am enjoying using all the new clips and hardware I got from the Fiero Store rather that messing around with old stuff:


The stock wheel well liners fit no problem with the 88 suspension installed:


Found that left over butyl stops these from falling off


Next the cowl cover can go back on - I used new stainless hardware:


Guess I need some new wipers but the washer tubing is installed:


I still plan on being able to store the sunroof in the front so the trim is back on but I will need to mount the front rests in a new location:


Now the front bumper cover and hood are next...

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Started by mounting stock air dam and reinforcement brace to bumper cover:


I found it easier to mount the upper brace to the bumper cover first rather than the other way around:


Next I prepped the bumper for the 87-88 cover:


Finished up the wheelwells, and installed the LED marker lens with molding painted body colour:


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Report this Post08-24-2011 10:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

For the front compartment lid, I placed in position vertically on a towel since I was installing it by myself.
Then I could finger tighten the lid bolts and lower it down with the headlight doors open for access.


Once the panel was aligned for gap and height, I tightened the bolts with a 13mm socket.
Next I raised the panel and finished tightening the 13mm nuts as well.
Although centering adjustment was needed, the existing washer marks had me in the ballpark during the finger tight process.


Next I installed the Rodney Dickman strut rod kit - works perfectly and I highly recommend it to anyone who is too lazy to fab up their own


I'm happy with the results, looks like a car again.


Next to go on are the last of the painted panels (lower front apron, door panels, side skirts and 1/4 windows)...

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Report this Post08-24-2011 11:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gokart MozartClick Here to visit Gokart Mozart's HomePageSend a Private Message to Gokart MozartEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Do you have a date you hope to be completed by?

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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post08-25-2011 11:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Gokart Mozart:

Do you have a date you hope to be completed by?


Yep, in time for this....http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/086689.html

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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post08-29-2011 11:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

The front spoiler has been remounted:




The side skirts when back on too:




Just the door handles and 1/4 windows left to pick up at at the paint shop, then the door skins can go on...

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Hey buddy!

It's exciting to watch this truly amazing build on the final leg of assembly. Great attention to every detail....you have a ride that you should be extremely proud of.

------------------
Nick M.

A journey in design and fabrication begins with a vision, a single pen stroke ... and in some cases the blow of a hammer.

Some projects: http://www.facebook.com/iNVisionPrototypes

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Report this Post08-31-2011 11:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ReallybigSend a Private Message to ReallybigEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

If you read some of the original posts, it's amazing how much better this build is going to look than anyone could imagine or suggest!
Amazing work! And it's only taken 8 years!

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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post09-03-2011 11:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Thanks very much guys!
Yes it's really starting to look like a unique Fiero as it goes back together.
This newest project with it's 69 page build thread, and over 288,000 views is something I am very proud of.
I'm looking forward to driving it again after a 2 year drought but I keep telling myself it will be worth the wait.
On with the show...

Made a template for the newly shaped decklid vent:


Used aluminum mesh I got from Bubbajoe back in 2008:


The edges are finished in black door edging and it's mounted with removable stainless bolts:


It sits virtually flush with the decklid and is mostly covered from view by the spoiler I can now install.

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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post09-03-2011 11:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I had to slot the mounting holes to align the spoiler but she's bolted in position now.
The decklid was installed flush with the rear fenders to improve the body gap alignment.
I'm much happier now with the overall alignment and smooth operation of the engine hatch.


Here's a better overhead view taken with my flash camera at night:


Should have all the parts to work on the door panels soon...

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doublec4
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Report this Post09-04-2011 02:58 AM Click Here to See the Profile for doublec4Click Here to Email doublec4Send a Private Message to doublec4Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Still going strong! I've been watching all along, this is great! I can't wait to see it pulled back out into the daylight!

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