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newest project by bubbajoexxx
Started on: 09-12-2003 06:18 PM
Replies: 3097 (358088 views)
Last post by: David Hambleton on 08-31-2017 09:18 PM
Will
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Report this Post05-13-2011 08:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for WillClick Here to Email WillSend a Private Message to WillEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

How far do you want to bend your lug studs?

I'll use these, but I'm not going to be so sloppy as to bolt up mis-matching patterns because they're "close".

Ctrl-F "Variation Nut":
http://www.serpentautosport...20and%20Spacers.html

These nuts allow wheels and hubs with slighly mis-matched bolt circles to be assembled. They could be used to:
Mate 120.65mm (4.75" Chevy pattern) to 120mm (BMW pattern)

OR (as relevant to the Fiero community)

Mate 114.3mm (4.5" Everything but GM pattern) to 115mm (GM large FWD pattern)

This satisfies my OCD with regard to avoiding side-loading the lug studs with slightly mismatched patterns.

Obviously use of these requires that appropriate attention be paid to adapting center bore diameters to keep the wheel hub-centric.

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bubbajoexxx
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Report this Post05-13-2011 08:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for bubbajoexxxClick Here to visit bubbajoexxx's HomePageClick Here to Email bubbajoexxxSend a Private Message to bubbajoexxxEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

been putting GM 115's on ford rangers for years .027 is nothing

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Will
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Report this Post05-13-2011 08:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for WillClick Here to Email WillSend a Private Message to WillEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Which only demonstrates that you're a mechanical hack.

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bubbajoexxx
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Report this Post05-13-2011 09:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for bubbajoexxxClick Here to visit bubbajoexxx's HomePageClick Here to Email bubbajoexxxSend a Private Message to bubbajoexxxEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Will:

Which only demonstrates that you're a mechanical hack.


get stuffed you arogant sob I have been building cars long before you where born

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joshua riedl
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Report this Post05-13-2011 10:30 PM Click Here to See the Profile for joshua riedlSend a Private Message to joshua riedlEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Yeah, Will can be a little rough around the edges. Too much time on the internet maybe. I really wonder if aftermarket wheel manufacturers even care, they probably oversize the holes a little and split the difference. I'm not buying two sets of wheels to find out though.

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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post05-15-2011 11:46 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I see we're on page 68 now
While I was at the wreckers on Saturday picking up rocker panel covers for my Mercedes, I also picked up this:


I also found this 85 SE V6 with A/C which might come in handy if need more misc. parts when I reassemble mine:






Also, question for Joe...I installed the suction and liquid lines today but noticed 3 wires from the compressor.
One come from the clutch and the other two from the main housing.
How do I wire these up connecting to the 2 wires (yellow and green) from the harness?


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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post05-16-2011 01:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Gokart Mozart:
I've wondered about the coolant tube crossing the engine bay. It's a bit distracting. What about running it along the side and rear and painting it black?


Okay this mod is finally done...

Last week I tried this setup but there were two issues:


1. I didn't like the fact that the coolant reservoir was no longer the highpoint in the system
2. The stainless line returning from the passenger rad to the waterpump developed a leak in the hose itself about a foot from the rad

That meant draining the DEXCOOL yet again
I decided to keep the other stainless hose as a spare for my upper rad hose (that doesn't leak) and went back the a hard line setup for the return





Cooling system is refilled with no leaks.
All the air bubbles are gone.
The guage is reading correctly with fans coming on above T-stat rating.

Gokart Mozart - your suggestion has been granted

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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post05-18-2011 09:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

For the engine cover I wanted a tidy modern look with side benefit of less visible parts to keep clean:
Sitting on top it's really far from the valve covers while vacuum tubes are in the way of stock location so I have two ideas to lower it to somewhere is the middle.

A - cut 8 holes in it for velocity stacks so it hides some plumbing but carbs still visible
B - only use the centre section between the carbs just above the throttle linkage


If I don't like option A result I can still try option B but not the other way around.

Here was Gokart's photoshop idea:


Here' option A:






Provide your feedback to help me decide...

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Mystik
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Report this Post05-19-2011 12:36 AM Click Here to See the Profile for MystikSend a Private Message to MystikEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I'm a fan of the bare look. The extra aesthetic pieces don't really do it for me, just detracts from the engine's natural beauty IMO.

but I'm kind of interested in how it's all interlocked, so I'm strange.

As a side note, I think this would look better than the other option.

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Mystik
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Report this Post05-19-2011 12:38 AM Click Here to See the Profile for MystikSend a Private Message to MystikEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:
I also found this 85 SE V6 with A/C which might come in handy if need more misc. parts when I reassemble mine:


Also, what yard did you find that at? I've been looking all around for Fieros in the area, I can't seem to find any.

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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post05-19-2011 11:39 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Mystik:
Also, what yard did you find that at? I've been looking all around for Fieros in the area, I can't seem to find any.


Thanks for feedback - here's the yard info...
http://www.millersauto.com/

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Will
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Report this Post05-19-2011 12:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for WillClick Here to Email WillSend a Private Message to WillEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Mystik:

I'm a fan of the bare look. The extra aesthetic pieces don't really do it for me, just detracts from the engine's natural beauty IMO.



Ditto

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fieroguru
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Report this Post05-19-2011 01:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I am fan of the bare look as well. Every time I see an engine cover I wonder what ugliness they are trying to hide with it.

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ezramore
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Report this Post05-19-2011 02:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ezramoreSend a Private Message to ezramoreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

What if you used it to cover the coil pack area instead. Would reduce the dirt blowing up from under the car a little. I agree with others that it takes away from the look of the engine otherwise.

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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post05-19-2011 02:46 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Exposed is getting votes. I'm going to try another option of 2 large holes so the entire carbs stick through and only the empty valley is covered.

------------------

Indy Northstar-Stretch ~ LT1-NOS Roadster

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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post05-19-2011 02:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by ezramore:

What if you used it to cover the coil pack area instead. Would reduce the dirt blowing up from under the car a little. I agree with others that it takes away from the look of the engine otherwise.


Then people will say why cover the nice wires and coils....but I've thought about that too

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Fiero38SC
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Report this Post05-20-2011 09:59 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero38SCClick Here to Email Fiero38SCSend a Private Message to Fiero38SCEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I like the idea of having a cover, it is a more modern look.

How about a custom cover out of stainless or powder coated to match? Cover the center and have the sides bend down near the valve covers much like the Caddy cover. Make 4 elongated holes for each pair of stacks. Also bend down the back to cover the difference in height that will be needed to cover the center linkages and the plug wires.

I think the extra badging for "Northstar 32 Valve" on the cover is redundant when placed next to the valve covers. If you want to keep the Caddy logo, add it to the new cover either in the center or along the centerline near the back of the cover.

Maybe someone can photoshop this idea?

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doublec4
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Report this Post05-20-2011 09:59 AM Click Here to See the Profile for doublec4Click Here to Email doublec4Send a Private Message to doublec4Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I vote no cover. Looks much better without.

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Tinkrr
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Report this Post05-20-2011 11:16 AM Click Here to See the Profile for TinkrrSend a Private Message to TinkrrEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

No Cover

I've always thought that manufacturers who cover up their engines are trying to hide something or they're ashamed of them.

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1988holleyformula
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Report this Post05-21-2011 01:39 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 1988holleyformulaSend a Private Message to 1988holleyformulaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Please forgive the following Photobucket edited photo, (edit: awesome, its over 300k, so my horrible art won't show up to any but those who are prepared ) but I really wanted to convey my idea, that was based off Gokart's.

This images is larger than 153600 bytes. Click to view.

So basically that same cover with the 4 parallel raised lines, placed right on top of the polished area in between the carbs. Paint or powdercoat (or whatever works) the cover black, with the Caddy logo right in the center.

Make sense? It still exposes much of the engine's character, but dresses it up at the same time.

I also want to see your photoshop of the "option of 2 large holes so the entire carbs stick through and only the empty valley is covered."

Fiero38SC's idea sounds good too!

Really amazing build you have here!

[This message has been edited by 1988holleyformula (edited 05-21-2011).]

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dratts
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Report this Post05-21-2011 12:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for drattsClick Here to Email drattsSend a Private Message to drattsEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I have two N* Fieros. One with the cover and one without. The one without could use a cover to hide the " busy Look"
of the engine, but I sure wouldn't hide an engine like yours.

[This message has been edited by dratts (edited 05-21-2011).]

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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post05-23-2011 06:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Thanks for the suggestions.
I marked out the openings for the carbs here:


However I realized that they would still cover up the intake manifolds which I wanted to keep visible.
So I ended up cutting out the center section and removing the emblem so it could be rotated 90 degrees.
I agree that the extra badging is duplication and it was only on one side anyways so not needed above the valve covers.


Here's my idea to cover the valley only and keep everything above exposed (including the throttle linkage)


Does this look like a suitable compromise?

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thedrue
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Report this Post05-23-2011 06:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for thedrueSend a Private Message to thedrueEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

That looks very nice. Subtle and you can still see the workings of the engine.

I like it, thumbs up!

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kennn
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Report this Post05-23-2011 09:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for kennnClick Here to Email kennnSend a Private Message to kennnEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

^^

Yes, subtle and tidy.

Ken

------------------
'88 Formula V6
'88 GT TPI V8

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Gokart Mozart
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Report this Post05-24-2011 10:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gokart MozartClick Here to visit Gokart Mozart's HomePageSend a Private Message to Gokart MozartEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=29
7213830 - Silver

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1988holleyformula
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Report this Post05-25-2011 04:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 1988holleyformulaSend a Private Message to 1988holleyformulaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:
Here's my idea to cover the valley only and keep everything above exposed (including the throttle linkage)


Does this look like a suitable compromise?


That's exactly what I was trying to convey with my poor Paint photo! Looks great!

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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post05-26-2011 10:56 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Ok cover is repainted silver and emblem glued and reinstalled.
New spark plugs are gapped / installed just need to refurb throttle linkage:
Working on covering rest of the engine harness...



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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post06-01-2011 01:10 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Almost done with the wiring cleanup...





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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post06-04-2011 09:58 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I picked up some LED lamps to use as reverse lights.
Since the old ones never worked I installed a new backup switch in the transaxle.
I also ran a new +12V (power with ignition on) wire so lights can't be left on.
Here's a picture of them wired up, with key on and shifter in reverse - it works


Then I was able to finally finish installing the wire loom within the engine bay:

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Will
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Report this Post06-05-2011 08:36 AM Click Here to See the Profile for WillClick Here to Email WillSend a Private Message to WillEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Is anything else hooked up to the Caddy overflow tank?

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ezramore
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Report this Post06-06-2011 10:26 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ezramoreSend a Private Message to ezramoreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Just a thought where the rad hose rests on the sharp metal edge of the cut mesh.

http://www.directindustry.c...ors-11859-31825.html

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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post06-07-2011 05:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Will:

Is anything else hooked up to the Caddy overflow tank?


Hi Will,

Both top and bottom connections are hooked up.

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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post06-07-2011 05:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by ezramore:

Just a thought where the rad hose rests on the sharp metal edge of the cut mesh.

http://www.directindustry.c...ors-11859-31825.html


Yes good suggestion.
I currently have rubber under the hose but also have some rubber door edge molding I please to add where the metal is cut.
This will be done soon prior to the car moving.

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nathrak
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Report this Post06-07-2011 11:47 PM Click Here to See the Profile for nathrakClick Here to Email nathrakSend a Private Message to nathrakEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Ok, will be heading north of the border (to North York) the first week of july and would love to see this car in person if it's out and about on the road.

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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post06-08-2011 05:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by nathrak:

Ok, will be heading north of the border (to North York) the first week of july and would love to see this car in person if it's out and about on the road.


Send me a PM then - will try my best to be ready.

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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post06-08-2011 07:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Completed new throttle linkage setup.

Started by rebuilding the broken linkage with new helm joint.
They came very stiff, so I little tap with the hammer and socket loosened them up to swivel freely:


Due to the valley cover, I needed to raise it, so I used new stainless bolts, washers and chrome tubing as spacers to get the clearance I needed.
To avoid linkage binding I reversed the mounting points from above to below to keep the joints horizontal:


Finished it off with rubber caps on top. The throttle stops snap back even when only one side is connected so I have good throttle response and consistent idle control:


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Gokart Mozart
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Report this Post06-08-2011 07:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gokart MozartClick Here to visit Gokart Mozart's HomePageSend a Private Message to Gokart MozartEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

spin the crest: put the caddy logo on top... nah

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ezramore
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Report this Post06-09-2011 02:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ezramoreSend a Private Message to ezramoreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Can you box in the vally cover to go over the link

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Will
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Report this Post06-10-2011 11:20 AM Click Here to See the Profile for WillClick Here to Email WillSend a Private Message to WillEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:


Update for fieroguru:

After some more R&D we are going to mod Bearing #513009 instead due to its smaller size 2.79" vs. 88 spindle of 2.74"

Timken or FAG #513009
Cross Ref #7466902 7470539 7470540
Non-Drive (FWD)
REAR w/Disc Brakes
Non-ABS

Fits:
1979-1985 Buick Riviera
1979-1985 Cadillac Eldorado
1980-1985 Cadillac Seville
1979-1981 Oldsmobile Toronado
1982-1985 Oldsmobile Toronado

http://www.alibaba.com/prod...eel_unit_513009.html



What dimension are you referring to? The OD of the housing?

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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post06-10-2011 10:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Will:

What dimension are you referring to? The OD of the housing?


Yes like this picture


To do this


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