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newest project by bubbajoexxx
Started on: 09-12-2003 06:18 PM
Replies: 3097 (358092 views)
Last post by: David Hambleton on 08-31-2017 09:18 PM
johnyrottin
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Report this Post01-01-2011 10:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for johnyrottinClick Here to Email johnyrottinSend a Private Message to johnyrottinEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Is this car put back together with that beautiful black paint on all the panels???

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RCR
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Report this Post01-02-2011 09:33 AM Click Here to See the Profile for RCRClick Here to Email RCRSend a Private Message to RCREdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by bubbajoexxx:


there are none the rads are in the rear side pannels of the car


Shoot...That makes more sense...I forgot about that.

thanx, Joe...

Bob

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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post01-07-2011 05:46 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Ok I am in Calgary this week but I got the electric vacuum pump installed for the brake system.
It fit nicely out of sight but accessible so I could bolt the trunk into place.











Also the decklid, spoiler and several small parts are painted leaving only the rear clip and roof to finish bodywork prep and paint.

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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post01-07-2011 05:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by johnyrottin:

Is this car put back together with that beautiful black paint on all the panels???


Nope this build thread is usually within a couple days of current status meaning I have to do something to post more pics.
No history lesson or holdouts here...I use the thread as motivation to keep going on the project.

------------------

Indy Northstar-Stretch ~ LT1-NOS Roadster

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ezramore
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Report this Post01-12-2011 09:32 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ezramoreSend a Private Message to ezramoreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

my favorite part of any build is when you start seeing the final picture. Looks like its going to be an awsome vehicle. Wonder if you could sell the design to GM if they would manufacture them. What are you going to do with your time when its all done?

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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post01-18-2011 11:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Small update that condenser/fan are mounted in car:





Going to shift focus to reinstalling the powertrain next...

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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post01-23-2011 08:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Ok, Time to dress the motor.
Need to start with the front since it's not easily accessible once on the cradle.

First thing I realized was it's been over a year since I took the engine apart so it's a bit of a head scratcher.
However I'm not worried because I've got Bubbajoe and pictures from this thread to use as reference.
If you're into this build and have time to pull dressed engine pics, please use page 55 as a Table of Contents to find them for me.

Here's the rebuilt .20 over 2001 Northstar from hibernation:


Once unwrapped I finished painting the block with alumi-blast:


The valve covers receive new rubber gaskets so they can be used installed to keep the top end clean:


I used a wire wheel to clean the paint off the reluctor wheel:


Next I noticed that the harmonic balancer may not be neutral balanced? See holes on one side - not sure if this is a problem as the crank was balanced internally:


The crankshaft is keyed but the balancer is not, it can be bolted on in any position:


I am going to use my dial indicator to find TDC #1 cylinder (left front) and use this guage to align the pickup sensor:


The reluctor wheel can also be mounted in any orientation (held by the crank bolt) so it doesn't matter where the balancer is in relation:


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bubbajoexxx
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Report this Post01-23-2011 11:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for bubbajoexxxClick Here to visit bubbajoexxx's HomePageClick Here to Email bubbajoexxxSend a Private Message to bubbajoexxxEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

you need to have the pickup on the engine before you tie down the reluctor wheel at top dead centre with the notch lined up with the picup coil

the balancer is neutral ballance as the hole you see is the palce where weight was removed to make it balanced

[This message has been edited by bubbajoexxx (edited 01-23-2011).]

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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post01-24-2011 11:32 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by bubbajoexxx:

you need to have the pickup on the engine before you tie down the reluctor wheel at top dead centre with the notch lined up with the picup coil - OK 1) MOUNT SENSOR 2) SET TDC 3) TIGHTEN ALIGNED WHEEL WITH SENSOR POINTING AT NOTCH

the balancer is neutral ballance as the hole you see is the palce where weight was removed to make it balanced - PERFECT JUST DOUBLE CHECKING



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madcurl
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Report this Post01-24-2011 06:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for madcurlClick Here to Email madcurlSend a Private Message to madcurlEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:

The valve covers receive new rubber gaskets so they can be used installed to keep the top end clean:




What type of gaskets are you using?

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Fiero2m8
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quote
Originally posted by madcurl:


What type of gaskets are you using?


Hey MadCurl,
For gaskets and seals I have a combination of OEM GM and Victor Reimz depending what it was for...

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 01-25-2011).]

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madcurl
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quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:


Hey MadCurl,
For gaskets and seals I have a combination of OEM GM and Victor Reimz depending what it was for...






Thanks. I was looking at the injector 0-rings.

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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post01-31-2011 09:37 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

My son Andrew is 14 now so he's more receptive to learn about working on cars.
He helped bolting on engine mounts and finding TDC for me this week.
I'm hoping to finish the front engine accessories tonight so the engine can go back in the chassis soon.







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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post02-03-2011 10:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Mechanical timing is set (trailing edge of 11th took after notch turning clockwise).
Gap is 0.025" with no runout and crank bolt torque is 37ft/lbs + 120 degrees:


New compressor is a five rib and smaller diameter pulley.
Since I was reducing 2" in length from 71 to 69, I modified a 6 rib belt commonly used on GM 2.8V6 or Jeep 4.0L:


Here is the installed belt after all pulleys and tensioner adjusted:


Next I mounted to cradle using 10.9 grade hardware and energy suspension poly mounts:


Ready to slide under chassis and lower frame to cradle

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Fiero2m8
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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post02-08-2011 12:08 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Work progressing on the rear suspension reassembly:


Drilled out rubber bushings for coilovers as they were sloppy after powdercoating.
Poly bushings installed in LCA:


Coilovers and spindles:

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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post02-08-2011 11:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Attention thread newbies - Table of Contents updated on page 55

Looky what just arrived...

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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post02-15-2011 09:11 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

The intake manifolds are cleaned and installed:







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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post02-16-2011 04:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Last night progress was slow as I spend 3 hours adjusting the exact position (square and level) of the engine in the engine bay.
It was my first anal rententive task in quite a while but I've got to be happy with everything or it will haunt me...
Tonight's plan is more ambitious as I'm installing the adapter plate, flywheel, clutch, pressure plate and transaxle.

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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post02-19-2011 10:30 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Well more progress made in the engine bay.
I realized that previous transmissions I'd installed were all automatics (GM and BMW) so I did some research first.

I used this well documented tech article with photos from pelican parts on changing a clutch in the Porsche 914
http://www.pelicanparts.com..._clutch_replace1.htm

They also have a handy checklist I printed to make sure steps were in the right order and I didn't miss any
http://www.pelicanparts.com...eplace_checklist.pdf

The Porsche 901 transaxle is by far the lightest I've ever worked with at a featherweight 89lbs, so this was easy to do myself by hand.



Cleaned and installed the adapter plate


Rebuilt Flywheel is neutal balanced that I bolted on at 60ft/lbs
(Porsche recommends 79.5ft/lbs but they use 5 large bolts while my adapter uses 8 small bolts with threadlocker)


Next is the new Kevlar clutch (thanks Bubbajoe for the extra input shaft to use as a clutch alignment tool - worked perfectly


Make sure to clean everything well as the flywheel and pressure plate have anti rust coating on them


Next goes the pressure plate onto the 3 flywheel locating pins with 6 bolts torqued to 14.5ft/lbs


The test fit went pretty smooth - slide onto studs, ensure level and slowly turn flywheel by prying tooth with a sflat screwdriver
When splines are aligned it moves slightly and you can push the rest of the way home


After a test fit, measured the throw out arm clearance and going to shim the pivot bolt before final installation
Make sure to add some grease to the end of the input shaft before reinstall


This long weekend I'll be installing more of the engine accessories...

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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post02-20-2011 09:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

After a successful test fit of the transaxle, I removed it to adjust the throwout bearing arm


I shimmed the pivot ball with a washer to decrease the endplay from 1" to 1/2"


While off the transaxle got a topcoat of high heat aluminum paint


I adjusted the drivetrain to be square and level as an assembly then torqued everything in place


Dellorto carbs are painted and installed


Progress is slow but steady...

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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post02-21-2011 09:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Stat Holiday Family Day in Ontario today so I did some of the "fun" stuff this afternoon

Polished and mounted the velocity stacks


Installed the stainless filters I got on eBay


Mounted oil pan brace and oil filter


Torqued the ceramic coated headers to 18ft/lbs


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OHNIKO
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Report this Post02-24-2011 10:52 AM Click Here to See the Profile for OHNIKOClick Here to Email OHNIKOSend a Private Message to OHNIKOEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

JUST WOW!...

we want to see it running & on the road by beginning of April at the latest!

lol, there's your motivation; you now have a deadline, as we'd like to see it come along to Watkin's Glen in April...

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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post02-25-2011 09:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by OHNIKO:
JUST WOW!...
we want to see it running & on the road by beginning of April at the latest!
lol, there's your motivation; you now have a deadline, as we'd like to see it come along to Watkin's Glen in April...


Yes that's the ambitious goal.
Let me know the actual date of Watkins so I can co-ordinate a week vacation request leading up to it - I think it's going to be that down to the wire...

Last night I got the slave cylinder, axles and rest of the exhaust mounted:



Need to have it running in a couple weeks time if I am going to have the body back on in a month.
Right now it looks like this so I've got a ways to go:



Suspension and drivetrain are done so really engine plumbing, wiring and new brake system are planned prior to body reinstall.

------------------

Indy Northstar-Stretch ~ LT1-NOS Roadster

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Dave E Bouy
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Report this Post02-26-2011 12:30 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Dave E BouyClick Here to Email Dave E BouySend a Private Message to Dave E BouyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Fabulous looking work work Ryan. Can't wait to see it up close.

Dave

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Gokart Mozart
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Report this Post02-27-2011 03:38 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gokart MozartClick Here to visit Gokart Mozart's HomePageSend a Private Message to Gokart MozartEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:

Last night progress was slow as I spend 3 hours adjusting the exact position (square and level) of the engine in the engine bay.
It was my first anal rententive task in quite a while but I've got to be happy with everything or it will haunt me...


Peace of mind is worth every millimeter!

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Danyel
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Report this Post02-27-2011 10:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for DanyelClick Here to visit Danyel's HomePageSend a Private Message to DanyelEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Totally blown away !!!! Just one word..... WOW !!!!

------------------


http://www.tylerstoy.com

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Fiero2m8
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quote
Originally posted by Dave E Bouy:
Fabulous looking work work Ryan. Can't wait to see it up close.
Dave


Thanks Dave, I'm looking forward to cruise season!

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Fiero2m8
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quote
Originally posted by Gokart Mozart:
Peace of mind is worth every millimeter!


Yes Dan, I felt the same way yesterday when taking the extra hour to polish the 18 valve cover bolts before torquing them down to 106 in/lbs.

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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post02-27-2011 11:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Danyel:
Totally blown away !!!! Just one word..... WOW !!!!


Thanks Danyel, nice to hear from you.
Today I installed the Willwood adjustable brake proportioning valve.

First I bleed the master cylinder while mounted in the car


All the brake lines have been replaced


Brake pressure switch was spliced in


Now I'll be able to dial in the optimal front / rear brake bias

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Report this Post02-28-2011 09:47 AM Click Here to See the Profile for War HammerClick Here to Email War HammerSend a Private Message to War HammerEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

It is so clean!

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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post03-01-2011 11:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by War Hammer:

It is so clean!


Thanks, your widebody is going to be sweet too.


On with the show...

Yesterday's project was supposed to be simple - install this


GM parts counter in GTA are rude compared to Niagara as they were demanding a VIN to order parts...anyways here's the part numbers for OEM gaskets:


Used my own build thread for reference pics on the bolts then realized transaxle needed to come off again for access to bolt near starter:


I'm sure Bubbajoe mentioned this at some point but anyways now I'm a pro at re/re the transaxle


I'm using the GM service manual for reference so these bolts are torqued to 18ft/lbs or 216in/lbs (someone with a Northstar will google this and find my thread)

Next, I'll be picking up some more body panels including the hood.
Fiero2m8

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Will
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Report this Post03-02-2011 08:20 AM Click Here to See the Profile for WillClick Here to Email WillSend a Private Message to WillEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:
Used my own build thread for reference pics on the bolts then realized transaxle needed to come off again for access to bolt near starter:



I don't think it would hurt starter support much if you cut out enough of that ring to clear the bolt/housing.

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bubbajoexxx
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Report this Post03-02-2011 05:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for bubbajoexxxClick Here to visit bubbajoexxx's HomePageClick Here to Email bubbajoexxxSend a Private Message to bubbajoexxxEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Will:


I don't think it would hurt starter support much if you cut out enough of that ring to clear the bolt/housing.


no you can not cut this out as there is a cut out right behind the ring to clear the water log on the starter hub

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Will
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Report this Post03-02-2011 10:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for WillClick Here to Email WillSend a Private Message to WillEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by bubbajoexxx:

no you can not cut this out as there is a cut out right behind the ring to clear the water log on the starter hub


I see that it's been cut out for the waterpump bolt. I don't think there would be any adverse consequences of cutting it more, considering that it seems to have studs on either side of it.

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Report this Post03-02-2011 11:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for WillClick Here to Email WillSend a Private Message to WillEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:
I am going to use my dial indicator to find TDC #1 cylinder (left front) and use this guage to align the pickup sensor:



FYI, #1 is in the right bank...

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Report this Post03-02-2011 11:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for WillClick Here to Email WillSend a Private Message to WillEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:

Rebuilt Flywheel is neutal balanced that I bolted on at 60ft/lbs
(Porsche recommends 79.5ft/lbs but they use 5 large bolts while my adapter uses 8 small bolts with threadlocker)



Where did you get that torque spec? Seems excessive for 8mm bolts...

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bubbajoexxx
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Report this Post03-02-2011 11:47 PM Click Here to See the Profile for bubbajoexxxClick Here to visit bubbajoexxx's HomePageClick Here to Email bubbajoexxxSend a Private Message to bubbajoexxxEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

He did not ask me what the torque was for the flywheel but it is 45 ftlbs on 8 mm 12.9 thats the yeld for that spacific bolt and for the stock bolts its the same

The porsche bolts he is refuring to are 13 mm x 1.25 , 12.9 and they use 75 ftlbs yeld

[This message has been edited by bubbajoexxx (edited 03-02-2011).]

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Report this Post03-02-2011 11:56 PM Click Here to See the Profile for bubbajoexxxClick Here to visit bubbajoexxx's HomePageClick Here to Email bubbajoexxxSend a Private Message to bubbajoexxxEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Will:


I see that it's been cut out for the waterpump bolt. I don't think there would be any adverse consequences of cutting it more, considering that it seems to have studs on either side of it.


if it was aluminum it would not hurt to much but the case is magnesium and the torque output of the starter is extreemly high turning an engine with 11
:1 compresson so the load is transfered to the case and the starter ring takes that force as the starter has a collar that fits tight in the starter ring

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