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newest project by bubbajoexxx
Started on: 09-12-2003 06:18 PM
Replies: 3101 (359396 views)
Last post by: Fiero2m8 on 11-11-2017 06:52 PM
bubbajoexxx
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Report this Post07-29-2010 01:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for bubbajoexxxClick Here to visit bubbajoexxx's HomePageClick Here to Email bubbajoexxxSend a Private Message to bubbajoexxxEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:


Hey c4 the colour plan is still Shadow Mica 1F4

Here is the hub bearing update:

Stock 88 units are disassembled to get the mounting plate for transfer to the new unit.
Notice how much larger and stronger the centre shaft will be once the conversion is complete:



dam I own a page again
update for Ryan here are the pics




[This message has been edited by bubbajoexxx (edited 07-29-2010).]

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bubbajoexxx
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no more plastic caged ball bearings full tapered roller bearings and races
when i disassembled the stock fiero units they came with plastic cage ball bearings
and the cages showed signs of melting from lack of grease this new setup eliminates the plastic parts and give true roller bearings
and a 1 1/8 stub shaft and 5X4 3/4 bolt circle

a couple of pics showing the shaft size change and new bearing



as seen in the pics the bearing is now a presision roller bearing insted of a cheep plastic low quality ball bearing

[This message has been edited by bubbajoexxx (edited 08-09-2010).]

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bubbajoexxx
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Report this Post07-29-2010 01:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for bubbajoexxxClick Here to visit bubbajoexxx's HomePageClick Here to Email bubbajoexxxSend a Private Message to bubbajoexxxEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Ryan give me a call

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Report this Post07-30-2010 04:11 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ErikClick Here to Email ErikSend a Private Message to ErikEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Those hubs will fit a 88 front with the same offset?

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Report this Post07-30-2010 08:38 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

So how much machining was required to the 88 hub housing to accept the bearing pack from the caddy bearing? I probably will do this mod myself some day...

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 07-30-2010).]

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bubbajoexxx
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quote
Originally posted by fieroguru:

So how much machining was required to the 88 hub housing to accept the bearing pack from the caddy bearing? I probably will do this mod myself some day...



simple squaring the bottom of each bearing bore as they have a ball radius the has to be removed then put it together

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bubbajoexxx
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quote
Originally posted by Erik:

Those hubs will fit a 88 front with the same offset?


offset is moved out 1/8 of an inch for the corvette rotors and calipers but you can remove 1/8 from the bearing stop to retian stock offset

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bubbajoexxx
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Report this Post08-09-2010 04:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for bubbajoexxxClick Here to visit bubbajoexxx's HomePageClick Here to Email bubbajoexxxSend a Private Message to bubbajoexxxEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

the shaft size for the fiero stub is 1.108" the new shaft size is1.250" alot stronger than the original

added some shaft pics above

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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post08-18-2010 01:49 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Picked up my silver Indy decals today:

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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post08-21-2010 02:25 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Table of contents for whole build thread is on page 55 and has been updated to page 62

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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post08-21-2010 05:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Some progress this week on the rear mounts for the 88 front suspension...

The exisitng mounts were removed with the air chisel:


The new mounts are going to be welded to the frame rail and floor:


I'm using U channel 3 inches long and here is one tacked in position:


On the passenger side a 5x5 sheet metal patch was needed prior to welding new mount:


The hardware I chose was 9x16 x 2" Grade 8 coarse thread bolts nuts and washers:


You can see that the cradle steps down so after I drilled the holes a bolt sleeve was made from 1/2" gas pipe to allow for this clearance:


After this test fit, it's ready to finish welding, paint and reinstall crossmember so I can build the rest of the suspension.

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bubbajoexxx
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Ryan a little tip clear all the paint off before you mig weld any pieces together as the paint will contaninate the weld and make it a poor weld prone to fail

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doublec4
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Report this Post08-22-2010 08:56 AM Click Here to See the Profile for doublec4Click Here to Email doublec4Send a Private Message to doublec4Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

This thing is the definition of the word custom. It never ends!

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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post08-23-2010 10:38 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by bubbajoexxx:
Ryan a little tip clear all the paint off before you mig weld any pieces together as the paint will contaninate the weld and make it a poor weld prone to fail


Thanks for the tip Joe, I do know this but when I reviewed the pictures they do look misleading
Will post more before the paint goes on.

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Report this Post08-23-2010 12:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ccfiero350Click Here to Email ccfiero350Send a Private Message to ccfiero350Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by bubbajoexxx:



no more plastic caged ball bearings full tapered roller bearings and races
when i disassembled the stock fiero units they came with plastic cage ball bearings
and the cages showed signs of melting from lack of grease this new setup eliminates the plastic parts and give true roller bearings
and a 1 1/8 stub shaft and 5X4 3/4 bolt circle



What were these hubs for originally?

------------------
yellow 88 GT, not stock
white 88 notchie, 4 banger

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bubbajoexxx
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quote
Originally posted by ccfiero350:


What were these hubs for originally?


these are american made caddy rear hubs for 79 to 85 seville part number 513009 if not made in the usa they will not work as the china ones can not be disassembled

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Report this Post08-24-2010 01:52 AM Click Here to See the Profile for SOV3RNClick Here to Email SOV3RNSend a Private Message to SOV3RNEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Hold on. I'm really confused. How are you not deaf after driving? Isn't the engine right behind your head?

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quote
Originally posted by SOV3RN:

Hold on. I'm really confused. How are you not deaf after driving? Isn't the engine right behind your head?


No different than stock Fiero - there's still glass between cabin and engine compartment...

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RCR
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Report this Post08-30-2010 08:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RCRClick Here to Email RCRSend a Private Message to RCREdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Hey Ryan,
I'm going to follow your path with the front swap. I should have mine next weekend, then the fun begins (again). I will probably be shooting some questions your way, if that's not a problem.

Bob

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bubbajoexxx
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Report this Post09-01-2010 07:44 AM Click Here to See the Profile for bubbajoexxxClick Here to visit bubbajoexxx's HomePageClick Here to Email bubbajoexxxSend a Private Message to bubbajoexxxEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

OK fellow members when you need parts machined I have found a freindly shop that can make just about any thing you need at prices we all can afford the contacts name is
Joe Sarafian and his site is www.rapidparts.ca
I have had him make an engine adapter and flywheel for me modifie bearing housings and flanges also , excellent work fast turnover and prices take make your wallet happier
give him a try when you need custom parts flywheel concentric rings for brakes bearing mods and so forth

here is a pic of the latest adapter made for me

[This message has been edited by bubbajoexxx (edited 09-01-2010).]

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Fiero2m8
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quote
Originally posted by RCR:

Hey Ryan,
I'm going to follow your path with the front swap. I should have mine next weekend, then the fun begins (again). I will probably be shooting some questions your way, if that's not a problem.

Bob


No problem Bob, between Bubbajoe and I you should get all the answers you need to be successful.

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quote
Originally posted by bubbajoexxx:

OK fellow members when you need parts machined I have found a freindly shop that can make just about any thing you need at prices we all can afford the contacts name is
Joe Sarafian and his site is www.rapidparts.ca



Thanks! Build is looking great too Ryan!

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bubbajoexxx
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Report this Post09-14-2010 11:50 AM Click Here to See the Profile for bubbajoexxxClick Here to visit bubbajoexxx's HomePageClick Here to Email bubbajoexxxSend a Private Message to bubbajoexxxEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

hubs are ready to install here are the pics



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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post09-15-2010 04:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

88 spindles picked up from powdercoating

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Alex4mula
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Report this Post09-16-2010 12:00 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Alex4mulaClick Here to Email Alex4mulaSend a Private Message to Alex4mulaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Wow! This thread is 7 yrs old! Keep the good work.

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Fiero2m8
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quote
Originally posted by Alex4mula:
Wow! This thread is 7 yrs old! Keep the good work.


Thanks Alex, slow but still going...

I stopped by Joe's and gave him the spindles.
He graciously offered to fab up the caliper adapter brackets now that the hub bearing units are complete.



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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post09-30-2010 03:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Finally got around to finishing frame upgrade for 88 suspension.

Here is the sheet metal to box in the frame after clearance cuts for LCA were made:


Metal wrapped around frame rail, welded and painted up:


New crossmember rear mounts are welded and painted as well:


Ready to build up the front suspension when the brake adapters are finished...

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Report this Post09-30-2010 05:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Quad GTClick Here to Email Quad GTSend a Private Message to Quad GTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Hey bubbajoexxx are you getting any of my PM I sent you, I still cant get that starter to work.

Oh love the work on the stretch.

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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post10-06-2010 09:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I decided to clean up the aluminum rear suspension components with wire brush on grinder.
Here are the upper control arms:





Working on the aluminum subframe and lower control arms as well.

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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post11-01-2010 07:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

So I had a change of heart and decided to powder coat the Corvette C5 rear suspension.
Once again I figured now's the time since it's all apart and would look better with some time and money.
Now it matches the front suspension in the silver / clear and will be lower maintenance to keep clean.
I don't have OCD so aluminum polishing isn't in my future plans...

Here are the results:

Rear UCA's


Rear LCA's


Rear Spindles


Subframe (view from top)


Subframe (view from bottom)


Engine cradle


I think I'll install some new bushings and then I'm ready to rebuild the rear end.

------------------

Indy Northstar-Stretch ~ LT1-NOS Roadster

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bonzo
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Report this Post11-05-2010 09:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for bonzoClick Here to Email bonzoSend a Private Message to bonzoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

2M8,
You are the man. It has been awhile since I have been on the forum. The Lt1 has been sold but still have the 84. Your work is amazing.

------------------

84 Show winner
88 LT1

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Fiero2m8
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quote
Originally posted by bonzo:

2M8,
You are the man. It has been awhile since I have been on the forum. The Lt1 has been sold but still have the 84. Your work is amazing.


Thanks Bonzo same here on both counts.

I've been sidetracked fixing the daily driver but will be back on the project this weekend...







In case anyone is wondering, the scrap metal lasted 7 minutes

------------------

Indy Northstar-Stretch ~ LT1-NOS Roadster

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Fiero2m8
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Report this Post11-25-2010 07:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero2m8Click Here to visit Fiero2m8's HomePageSend a Private Message to Fiero2m8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Today I received the Prothane bushings for the Corvette rear control arms.



I'll being installing these on the weekend...

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RCR
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Report this Post11-28-2010 10:20 AM Click Here to See the Profile for RCRClick Here to Email RCRSend a Private Message to RCREdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:

Front crossmember from underneath - you can see back side of locating pin.
The 84-87 frame has these 3 holes inline:





Hi Ryan,
Hopefully you can help clear some things up for me...

What did you do with the locating pin? Did you drill a hole in the frame for it (how did you locate it?), or did you lop it off?

How did you ensure the location of the cradle was correct front to back?

I wanted to get started and these items weren't too clear from yours, Will's, and David's instructions.

thanx...

Bob

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RCR
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Report this Post11-28-2010 10:26 AM Click Here to See the Profile for RCRClick Here to Email RCRSend a Private Message to RCREdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Sorry to keep posting my junk here, but I may have answered my question on the locating pin...My 84 does not have one, but this one appears to have one (my cross-member is definitely different as the centers to the mounting point are punched out):


Your's is an 84 Indy, correct? But I take it you had a locating pin?

edit: A little investigation revealed that my chassis has a hole on each side that could be locating holes. The cross-member does not.

Bob

[This message has been edited by RCR (edited 11-28-2010).]

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Erik
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Report this Post11-29-2010 03:47 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ErikClick Here to Email ErikSend a Private Message to ErikEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by bubbajoexxx:

hubs are ready to install here are the pics



Bubba do you think the hub housing is at least as strong as it was before the caddy bearing/races were installed?

[This message has been edited by Erik (edited 11-29-2010).]

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Fiero2m8
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quote
Originally posted by RCR:
Your's is an 84 Indy, correct? But I take it you had a locating pin?
Bob


Hi Bob,

Yes the locating pin is key to ensure the correct position is for side/side and fore/aft placement - do not cut it off.
I posted that picture to show why the holes needed to be redrilled or elongated (to be in line with the locating pin).
There are two methods of doing this swap - redrilling the frame or redrilling the crossmember (I chose the latter).

Ryan

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Fiero2m8
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quote
Originally posted by Erik:
Bubba do you think the hub housing is at least as strong as it was before the caddy bearing/races were installed?


Hi Erik,
Other than squaring off the bearing lip for the caddy roller bearings vs the concave design the stock ball bearing needed the 88 housing are unmodified.
Therefore since the bore is the same and no other material removed the answer would be yes.
Ryan

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bubbajoexxx
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quote
Originally posted by Erik:


Bubba do you think the hub housing is at least as strong as it was before the caddy bearing/races were installed?



yes as only the radius was removed no material from the sides or depth

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RCR
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Report this Post11-29-2010 10:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RCRClick Here to Email RCRSend a Private Message to RCREdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero2m8:


Hi Bob,

Yes the locating pin is key to ensure the correct position is for side/side and fore/aft placement - do not cut it off.
I posted that picture to show why the holes needed to be redrilled or elongated (to be in line with the locating pin).
There are two methods of doing this swap - redrilling the frame or redrilling the crossmember (I chose the latter).

Ryan


Thanx Ryan,
What threw me was my original cradle not having the pin. I didn't realize the chassis had the holes until I crawled under to remove the back cross member.

Second question...Back cross member...It doesn't look like anyone puts it back in...I was looking at it and it doesn't seem structural, but as a gaurd for the gas tank. Any concern not having it?

thanx again...

Bob

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