Click here to visit the donation page | View all sponsors
  Pennock's Fiero Forum
  The Construction Zone
  LS4 / F40 swap - fieroguru (Page 12)

Post New Topic  Post A Reply
Email This Page to Someone! | Printable Version

This topic is 32 pages long:  1   2   3   4   5   6   7   8   9   10   11   12   13   14   15   16   17   18   19   20   21   22   23   24   25   26   27   28   29   30   31   32 
Previous Page | Next Page
next newest topic | next oldest topic
LS4 / F40 swap - fieroguru by fieroguru
Started on: 12-13-2010 01:34 PM
Replies: 1262 (99032 views)
Last post by: fieroguru on 09-10-2017 09:04 PM
fieroguru
Member

Posts: 9979
From: Champaign, IL
Registered: Aug 2003


Feedback score:    (43)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 243
Rate this member

Report this Post02-11-2012 08:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Drilled one of the front wheel bearings for the 5 x 4 3/4" pattern:

Removed the old wheel studs:


Set it up on the mill, dial indicated off the wheel pilot, locked the flange from spinning, and the drilled the flange to the required dimensions:


Reinstalled the wheel studs:



Test fit with my old C4 rotors:

IP: Logged

fieroguru
Member

Posts: 9979
From: Champaign, IL
Registered: Aug 2003


Feedback score:    (43)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 243
Rate this member

Report this Post02-11-2012 08:25 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Ordered one 18 x 10.5 wheel for the back and one 17 x 8.5 wheel for the front. I will use these wheels to confirm fitment before I buy the other 2.

This is the rear wheel. I went with the polished lip and black powder coated center. The black color should allow the 13" rotors and by colored calipers to really stand out:

IP: Logged

fieroguru
Member

Posts: 9979
From: Champaign, IL
Registered: Aug 2003


Feedback score:    (43)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 243
Rate this member

Report this Post02-12-2012 06:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Sold my first set of lateral link relocation brackets:

IP: Logged

F355spider
Member

Posts: 1870
From: Texas
Registered: Jul 2004


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 110
Rate this member

Report this Post02-18-2012 09:32 AM Click Here to See the Profile for F355spiderClick Here to Email F355spiderSend a Private Message to F355spiderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

bump

[This message has been edited by F355spider (edited 02-24-2012).]

IP: Logged

fieroguru
Member

Posts: 9979
From: Champaign, IL
Registered: Aug 2003


Feedback score:    (43)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 243
Rate this member

Report this Post02-19-2012 05:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Started test fitting the wheels. The fronts will need some slight clearance work to the upper and lower a-arms to clear the 17x8.5 (ET 58). The rear will require about 1 5/8" shorter lateral links, a custom trailing link and most likely relocate the tops of the struts inboard 1 5/8" as well:











IP: Logged

fieroguru
Member

Posts: 9979
From: Champaign, IL
Registered: Aug 2003


Feedback score:    (43)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 243
Rate this member

Report this Post02-23-2012 08:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Since I pulled the bottom of the wheel in about 1 5/8" and ran out of needed adjustment to get the wheel back to zero camber, I needed to move the top of the strut inboard as well. Finally settled on moving it inboard 1" and the method was to modify the OEM spring hat. I welded some 1/8" to the side with the 2 bolts, relocated those holes 1" and then relocated the single hole on the other side 1/2".


The plan is to remove the flange from the top of the strut tower (hole saw around the raised edge).


The inboard hole in the strut tower will need to be relocated 1/2" inboard as well and you can see in this picture where the top of the strut will need to pass through.


I do not want it to be obvious the strut top was relocated. By making the strut tower flat on top (removing the raised flange), I can make a flat triangular piece of aluminum with a single hole for the strut bushing (my bushing hat will be flipped) to clean up the look of the strut towers while hiding the modification.

Here is an underside view:


With moving everything in, the back side of the strut has about 1/2" clearance to the frame rail at ride height. With the suspension at full droop, the strut will rub against the frame rails. I might use some 3" pipe to do a slight notch to the frame rails.

As if I need anything else to do on this car... I started drawing up some tubular upper and lower a-arms for the front. Not sure if I will make them, but they are designed to clear my front wheels and work with my coil over setup. I need to weigh the stock components to see if I can save any weight with the new ones. Might also look at redoing the whole front crossmember to save some weight as well. And thinking about making some 1 1/2" dropped spindles that could work with the S10 wheel bearing... too many ideas, not enough free time...

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 02-23-2012).]

IP: Logged

fieroguru
Member

Posts: 9979
From: Champaign, IL
Registered: Aug 2003


Feedback score:    (43)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 243
Rate this member

Report this Post02-24-2012 07:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Once side of the strut relocation is nearly done (need to make the final beauty plate vs. the 16ga mockup template):

Fabbed up the beauty plate for the top side:



Flattened the top of the strut towers with a grinder. The strut tower is 2 layers of steel. After the top panel is flat, its hole matches that of the lower panel:



Still need to remove some more material:


The stock inboard bolt hole was quite larger and very close to where the new one needed to be, so I clamped some aluminum in place and welded up the original bolt hole:


Test fit:





On Saturday, I should be able to get the other side done and make both of the beauty panels for the top.

IP: Logged

fieroguru
Member

Posts: 9979
From: Champaign, IL
Registered: Aug 2003


Feedback score:    (43)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 243
Rate this member

Report this Post03-04-2012 08:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Since I needed to remove the dogbone bracket for the passenger side strut relocation, I went ahead and worked on cleaning up the engine bay.

Before:




After:




Removed crap:


I still need to remove the decklid hinge boxes and move the transmission bulge back about 3/4"... then it will be time to clean/paint the engine bay.

IP: Logged

fieroguru
Member

Posts: 9979
From: Champaign, IL
Registered: Aug 2003


Feedback score:    (43)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 243
Rate this member

Report this Post03-17-2012 03:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Finished cutting out the decklid hinge boxes and installing the new low profile hinges. Also moved the stock transmission bulge in the driver side frame rail 1/2" to the rear and smoothed out the welds... engine bay of this new car is getting ready for a test fit of the LS4/F40 (possible custom route for the shifter cables., then it will be time to paint this engine bay.


IP: Logged

Syn
Member

Posts: 685
From: Arkansas.
Registered: Jul 2011


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post03-25-2012 12:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SynClick Here to Email SynSend a Private Message to SynEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

any updates?

IP: Logged

fieroguru
Member

Posts: 9979
From: Champaign, IL
Registered: Aug 2003


Feedback score:    (43)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 243
Rate this member

Report this Post03-25-2012 08:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Syn:

any updates?


No progress this week.
An 88 formula with 3.4TDC/getrag combo was dropped off with a miss (bad plug wire), so fixed that and now doing a Rodney S10 booster evaluation on this car.
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/F...121747.html#lastpost
After the booster swap, I am planning on weighting this car on the same scales as I weighed my 88 GT Clone with SBC/Getrag and 88 coupe with 4.3/4T60 to expand my 88 engine swap database.

I also added another 88 to the personal fleet this weekend. I call it "4cyl fastback" because that is what it is. Started life as an 88 coupe 4cyl/auto and underwent a GT conversion except for the engine/tranny. This will be my daily driver shortly. I will get this one weighed as well, then eventually swap in an isuzu and reweigh it.


I should be back working on the LS4 engine bay and wiring here shortly. I would like to have this swap running this spring.

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 03-25-2012).]

IP: Logged

Jefrysuko
Member

Posts: 3477
From: Oreana IL
Registered: Apr 2000


Feedback score:    (17)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 108
Rate this member

Report this Post03-26-2012 01:33 AM Click Here to See the Profile for JefrysukoSend a Private Message to JefrysukoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by fieroguru:

I also added another 88 to the personal fleet this weekend.



Good to see you Rollin in a Fiero again there Guru. I saw that car in the mall and thought it looked nice. Hope it does you well as a DD.

IP: Logged

dobey
Member

Posts: 11572
From:
Registered: Sep 2001


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 371
User Banned

Report this Post04-17-2012 09:46 AM Click Here to See the Profile for dobeySend a Private Message to dobeyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Got it running yet?

IP: Logged

fieroguru
Member

Posts: 9979
From: Champaign, IL
Registered: Aug 2003


Feedback score:    (43)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 243
Rate this member

Report this Post04-17-2012 11:43 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by dobey:

Got it running yet?


Nope... Probably won't before the move, so I will just slide it into place and then pull it to the new house.

IP: Logged

dobey
Member

Posts: 11572
From:
Registered: Sep 2001


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 371
User Banned

Report this Post04-17-2012 08:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for dobeySend a Private Message to dobeyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by fieroguru:
Nope... Probably won't before the move, so I will just slide it into place and then pull it to the new house.


Ah. Didn't know you were moving. Congrats (I hope), and hope everything goes smooth with the move.

IP: Logged

fieroguru
Member

Posts: 9979
From: Champaign, IL
Registered: Aug 2003


Feedback score:    (43)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 243
Rate this member

Report this Post04-19-2012 07:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by dobey:


Ah. Didn't know you were moving. Congrats (I hope), and hope everything goes smooth with the move.


It wasn't really planned. Been leasing the current place for the last 3 years and the lease expires on June 30th. We approached the landlord a few weeks ago working to renew it early for another 18 months and were told the house is being sold...

It is difficult to find a rental with the needed room for my automotive/metal fabrication hobby, so we are just going to buy... Sold my last house back in 2006 and been waiting out the housing market for 6 years, it is a pretty good time to buy.

IP: Logged

ZombiePenguin
Member

Posts: 200
From: Fort Wayne, IN, USA
Registered: Mar 2010


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post05-07-2012 07:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ZombiePenguinClick Here to Email ZombiePenguinSend a Private Message to ZombiePenguinEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

bump for updates

IP: Logged

fieroguru
Member

Posts: 9979
From: Champaign, IL
Registered: Aug 2003


Feedback score:    (43)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 243
Rate this member

Report this Post05-07-2012 07:38 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Been slacking... selling lots of spare parts in preparation of the move, selling quite a few brake kits, and making some decisions about the LS4/F40.

To get the engine running, I am going to install it with the stock LS4 MAF, LS4 Throttle body, and LS4 Injectors. This will simplify the initial startup tuning as the biggest change would be the Intake, Cam and LS7 manifolds (which is a significant change, but less than chaning the MAF, TB and Injectors at the same time as well). Once I have the car dialed in with those parts, then I can add the Injectors and tweaks the injector constants to dial it back in. Then add the throttle body and tweak. Then add the LS2 MAF and finish dialing it in with the MAF tables. Tuning this thing isn't going to be fun...

Found a house, offer was made and we have a purchase contract. Closing date is June 8th and I have to be fully moved by June 30th. My new garage is 5' narrower than my current one (larger one will be built in a year or two), so I had to figure out where everything goes in the new place. This is the general location, but subject to change:

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 05-07-2012).]

IP: Logged

fieroguru
Member

Posts: 9979
From: Champaign, IL
Registered: Aug 2003


Feedback score:    (43)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 243
Rate this member

Report this Post05-07-2012 07:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Here is a start on the adapter plate to bolt the LS4 throttle body to the LS2 intake manifold. It needs to be 3/4" thick to allow the throttle motor on the LS4 throttle body to clear the LS2 intake. It is also offset from center about 1/8" for the needed clearance. This adapter will be shaped on its perimeter to better match the LS2 intake flange vs. keeping it a simple rectangle.



[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 05-07-2012).]

IP: Logged

dobey
Member

Posts: 11572
From:
Registered: Sep 2001


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 371
User Banned

Report this Post05-18-2012 05:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for dobeySend a Private Message to dobeyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

You're aware that the LS4 injectors don't fit the LS2 intake, right? They're a smaller diameter than the LS2 intake and fuel rail accepts. And the LS4 rail won't fit over the LS2 intake either.

IP: Logged

fieroguru
Member

Posts: 9979
From: Champaign, IL
Registered: Aug 2003


Feedback score:    (43)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 243
Rate this member

Report this Post06-04-2012 08:05 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Spent most of the evening putting the black car back into rolling state with the LS4/F40 in the engine bay so I can dolly it to the new house. It will be early to mid July before I get my new garage in order to the point of finishing this swap. I still need to pack the interior with all the boxes of parts for this swap.

IP: Logged

iluvsd619
Member

Posts: 1032
From: san diego, ca
Registered: May 2005


Feedback score:    (25)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post07-01-2012 10:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for iluvsd619Click Here to Email iluvsd619Send a Private Message to iluvsd619Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Had to Bump for you. Just waiting.

IP: Logged

fieroguru
Member

Posts: 9979
From: Champaign, IL
Registered: Aug 2003


Feedback score:    (43)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 243
Rate this member

Report this Post07-24-2012 08:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Finally got the new garage to the point I could fit the LS4/F40 coupe in it... now I just need to get focused on actually working on it again!


IP: Logged

dobey
Member

Posts: 11572
From:
Registered: Sep 2001


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 371
User Banned

Report this Post07-27-2012 09:13 AM Click Here to See the Profile for dobeySend a Private Message to dobeyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Nice! Looking forward to seeing more updates and seeing how your flywheel/clutch works out.

IP: Logged

fieroguru
Member

Posts: 9979
From: Champaign, IL
Registered: Aug 2003


Feedback score:    (43)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 243
Rate this member

Report this Post08-26-2012 08:10 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Owing a house again after 6.5 years renting is a good and bad thing... Good in that I will eventually be able to build a larger garage (had 4500+ sq ft of garage space in IL), bad in that my wife for the first time in 6.5 years can request changes/updates to the house. So I have been very busy with house stuff (alarming all windows, installing an 8 camera security system, cell phone booster, outdoor temp gizmo, no soliciting sign, power washing the exterior and the deck... it truly is an endless list that she adds to on a daily basis (this week it is porch swing and kids swingset/play house).

We also sold the commercial building back in IL last week which makes us very, very happy and should help enable a garage expansion in the next year or two.

I was able to get caught up on my current honey do list and worked on getting the LS4/F40 back out of the chassis so I can start working on it some more.


Today I ordered a bunch of needed parts: backup light pigtail, 100 ECM pins, AN fittings and PTFE braided hose for the fuel lines, replacement AC compressor hose, and rubber isolation mounts for the ecm. I think this is the place the ecm will be mounted. I just need to make a couple of brackets for it off the start mount and the front transmission mount.


IP: Logged

Trinten
Member

Posts: 672
From: Durham, N.C.
Registered: Sep 2008


Feedback score:    (6)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post08-26-2012 10:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for TrintenSend a Private Message to TrintenEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Garage is looking great, so is that engine!

Congrats on the sale!

IP: Logged

dobey
Member

Posts: 11572
From:
Registered: Sep 2001


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 371
User Banned

Report this Post08-27-2012 10:09 AM Click Here to See the Profile for dobeySend a Private Message to dobeyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Don't know if you've thought about it much at all, but I noticed that my Avalanche has a bracket which mounts the ECM in a vertical position, and thought it might be possible to use it in a Fiero. I haven't looked into how it mounts up into detail yet though.

http://www.tonkinonlinepart...104047/15905990.html

IP: Logged

fieroguru
Member

Posts: 9979
From: Champaign, IL
Registered: Aug 2003


Feedback score:    (43)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 243
Rate this member

Report this Post08-28-2012 07:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by dobey:

Don't know if you've thought about it much at all, but I noticed that my Avalanche has a bracket which mounts the ECM in a vertical position, and thought it might be possible to use it in a Fiero. I haven't looked into how it mounts up into detail yet though.

http://www.tonkinonlinepart...104047/15905990.html


GM doesn't normally do a clean/space efficient job of mounting the ECM, so I just planned on using these rubber isolation feet bolted to a backing plate that bolts to the front transmission mount. The 4 feet were $12 shipped. Sorry for the crappy ebay pic.

IP: Logged

fieroguru
Member

Posts: 9979
From: Champaign, IL
Registered: Aug 2003


Feedback score:    (43)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 243
Rate this member

Report this Post08-28-2012 07:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I am going to try and get something completed on the swap every couple of days so progress will continue.

Tonight I welded in the two O2 sensor bungs. One for the ECM and the other for the wideband:


Then drilled the muffler support bracket to accept the harness side O2 connector:


I needed to get the o2 sensor located so I can start building the harness which starts with the camshaft sensor and the O2 sensor.

IP: Logged

Bloozberry
Member

Posts: 7760
From:
Registered: Jan 2009


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 308
Rate this member

Report this Post08-28-2012 09:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BloozberrySend a Private Message to BloozberryEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Good to see you're back at it. The same two or three threads have dominated the top of the CZ long enough!

IP: Logged

fieroguru
Member

Posts: 9979
From: Champaign, IL
Registered: Aug 2003


Feedback score:    (43)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 243
Rate this member

Report this Post08-29-2012 09:05 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Bloozberry:

Good to see you're back at it. The same two or three threads have dominated the top of the CZ long enough!


Yeah, I am glad to be making progress again!

Tonight I was late getting home, but had several parts waiting for me:



IP: Logged

fieroguru
Member

Posts: 9979
From: Champaign, IL
Registered: Aug 2003


Feedback score:    (43)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 243
Rate this member

Report this Post08-30-2012 08:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

More goodies showed up today:

For repining the harness at the ecm:


Connection at the fuel rail - GM quick disconnect to -6 AN (the 2nd picture also shows the -6 AN hose end installed):



Connection to the LS2 Vette fuel pressure regulator - GM quick disconnect to -6 AN (the 2nd picture alsp shows the -6 AN 90 hose fitting and the LS2 Vette fuel filter/regulator):



Pigtail for the reverse light switch on the F40 (spendy little thing at $40+):



Then I started to play with the AC hose connection at the compressor. I knew it wouldn't clear the exhaust in stock form, but suspected that with some gentle massaging I could make it clear:
Before:



After:




I probably could have pulled it outward, but there was plenty of unused room behind it and with that routing it would leave me with room to get my hands up there to change the plugs some day. I already have some new AC hose in a box, so I will just cut the current hose off, install some new hose and cut it to fit with the stock fiero chassis ends.

I really hate wiring and am somewhat fanatical about how it looks. It should be hidden as much as possible, the harness should be as small & skinny as possible and there should be a logical flow for the wires that can be seen (and the ones that can't). So here is a peak at the start of the harness build:




So far the Cam Sensor, Common Ground, ECM O2 Sensor, Oil Level Sensor, B2 Knock, and Crankshaft sensor have been loomed in heat shrink with the VSS and Temp portions getting ready to joint the harness. Lots more to do and the wires will start being added like crazy with the 4 coils and 4 injectors being added before reaching the center of the engine. The the ECM Oil Pressure sensor, DOD connector, MAF, DBW throttle and reverse lights at the center of the engine, then 4 more injectors, 4 more coils, map sensor and starter down the other side, then to the oil pressure sender for the gauge cluster, B1 knock sensor, alternator, and AC compressor.

Right now I am planning to completely eliminate the 500 connector. The rear lights/body harness with be spliced in directly to the body harness and the wires ran down through the fuel tank tunnel, into the double firewall panel, then through a hole I will drill in the B-pillar base, then the harness will be in the passenger wheel well and continue the stock routing path. This setup is very similar to how I ran the harness on my Ramjet/Getrag swap. The engine side of the 500 will probably just be a terminal strip in the console where the ECM used to go. Plenty of room for it and this will keep the size of the harness that needs to pass through the firewall as small as possible.

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 08-30-2012).]

IP: Logged

Bloozberry
Member

Posts: 7760
From:
Registered: Jan 2009


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 308
Rate this member

Report this Post09-02-2012 08:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BloozberrySend a Private Message to BloozberryEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

One of the things I like the most about this thread is your high quality pictures. It can easily take as much time to set up, take, crop, resize, and post the pictures as it often does to actually work on the car, something that not many people are willing to do.

IP: Logged

fieroguru
Member

Posts: 9979
From: Champaign, IL
Registered: Aug 2003


Feedback score:    (43)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 243
Rate this member

Report this Post09-03-2012 09:04 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Bloozberry:

One of the things I like the most about this thread is your high quality pictures. It can easily take as much time to set up, take, crop, resize, and post the pictures as it often does to actually work on the car, something that not many people are willing to do.


Thanks! For me it is just part of the process of documenting so I have some references to go back to at a later date (especially part #'s for the components I used) and to help others follow along. My commentary also helps me remember what I was thinking at the time.

As for the time to get all the pictures... It took some trial and error, but now I have it setup were I literally shoot the pic, upload it (multiple at a time) and copy/paste the link without having to do any resizing/cropping/editing to the pics. I have a camera for car stuff and I set it to a lower resolution since they will be uploaded anyway (and I get more pictures capacity per SD card). Then I setup my photobucket account to auto convert every picture uploaded to a preset size. Once the upload is complete, it automatically gives me the link to the picture with the proper tags so it is a copy/paste.

I am sure I will get ragged on for not using PIP and hosting the pictures through PFF... but the issue is I share these pictures on multiple forums. The ones hosted on a PFF server are not allowed to be hotlinked from any other forum - they are for PFF only. If you try, you get this for all your pictures:


So to post the pictures anywhere else but PFF, I have to use something like photobucket and can't justify the extra effort to upload every picture to two separate servers.

IP: Logged

fieroguru
Member

Posts: 9979
From: Champaign, IL
Registered: Aug 2003


Feedback score:    (43)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 243
Rate this member

Report this Post09-03-2012 09:23 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Made a little more progress with harness building and I am up to the point of the even # injectors joining the harness and you can see that I am trying to keep the harness tucked up close to the engine and hidden under the coils. This portion of the harness will be loomed in the normal automotive slip loom material.


I started the process of typing up all the terminations for the 3 connectors at the ecm and adding the termination point at the other side. Long tedius process but it lets be blow apart the harness and route it like I want it wire by wire. It also allows me to see what information I still need to track down... Like the Tach output for the E67 ecm I am using. The LS4 service manual does not list a specific tach output from the ECM as that signal is handled through the GMLAN. However, there were at least 3 other E67 applications that had a dedicated tach line from the ecm (GMPP crate motor ecm, TBSS and CTSV) - all of these have the tach wire installed at C1 Pin 25. Also, the VSS normally goes through the TCM, but the CTSV and TBSS had manual transmissions and connected the VSS directly to the E67 ECM at C3 Pin 66/67 with the output at C1 pin 39. Now I just have to figure out how to enable those functions w/o losing DoD...

IP: Logged

Danyel
Member

Posts: 5668
From: Lévis, Québec, Canada
Registered: Sep 2008


Feedback score:    (89)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 164
Rate this member

Report this Post09-03-2012 12:07 PM Click Here to See the Profile for DanyelClick Here to visit Danyel's HomePageSend a Private Message to DanyelEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Added to my favorites .... PM sent about the F40 ... I also agree with Bloozberry

------------------

My Build Thread
Tylers Toy

[This message has been edited by Danyel (edited 09-03-2012).]

IP: Logged

fieroguru
Member

Posts: 9979
From: Champaign, IL
Registered: Aug 2003


Feedback score:    (43)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 243
Rate this member

Report this Post09-08-2012 02:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I was able to fab up the ecm mount today. It uses two of the front transmission mount bolts and has spacers between it and the blue transmission mount. The rear tab is just tack welded in the place for the pic:



IP: Logged

F355spider
Member

Posts: 1870
From: Texas
Registered: Jul 2004


Feedback score: (1)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 110
Rate this member

Report this Post09-08-2012 09:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for F355spiderClick Here to Email F355spiderSend a Private Message to F355spiderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Is that AC hose from the LS4? Does it fit the Fiero connection?

IP: Logged

fieroguru
Member

Posts: 9979
From: Champaign, IL
Registered: Aug 2003


Feedback score:    (43)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 243
Rate this member

Report this Post09-08-2012 10:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by F355spider:

Is that AC hose from the LS4? Does it fit the Fiero connection?


Yes, that is an OEM LS4 AC hose, no the other end will not fit the fiero chassis connection. I am planning to remove the hoses, install new ones with the needed fiero end.

IP: Logged

fieroguru
Member

Posts: 9979
From: Champaign, IL
Registered: Aug 2003


Feedback score:    (43)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 243
Rate this member

Report this Post09-11-2012 07:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

The plug wires arrived today. They are a universal cut-to-fit V8 set from Summit Racing with 45 degree boots at the plugs. Just need to cut them and add the MSD coil ends to them:


[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 09-11-2012).]

IP: Logged

Previous Page | Next Page

This topic is 32 pages long:  1   2   3   4   5   6   7   8   9   10   11   12   13   14   15   16   17   18   19   20   21   22   23   24   25   26   27   28   29   30   31   32 
next newest topic | next oldest topic

All times are ET (US)

Post New Topic  Post A Reply
Hop to:

Contact Us | Back To Main Page

Advertizing on PFF | Fiero Parts Vendors
PFF Merchandise | Fiero Gallery | Ogre's Cave
Real-Time Chat | Fiero Related Auctions on eBay



Copyright (c) 1999, C. Pennock