man some one stole my laptop last night out of my car so I have been doing password change

quote Originally posted by engine man: man some one stole my laptop last night out of my car so I have been doing password change I have completed the megasquirt now I just need to test it and load its firmware but I haven't a computer to do the things I need to do

Sorry man! That sucks!

man this sucks having to wait to use a computer

I dint get to work on the car last Saturday due to being called into work to cover for some one but I will try to work on it this Saturday

well i repaird a old laptop my dad had put in a new hard drive and i got a stimulator for my megasquirt to test it and this morning i built it in 2 hours and i think i am going to see about selling some megasquirts on ebay so i will buy another MS2 kit

The 6.0 W12 from a Phaeton W12 makes 420 HP. The version from the A8 is dry sumped and makes 450 HP. It fits anywhere the 4.2 fits.

well i am messing with tunerstudio but it said no conection so i think i will need the USB to DB9 conector they say to use instead of the one i picked up at radio shack

quote Originally posted by engine man: the one i picked up at radio shack

Yeah, that's your problem

I really don't see that it will make any difference but the DIY site said theirs works with tuner studio what the hell do i know i know nothing when it comes to electronics

i got the new cable and power supply it all works now just took me a few minutes on how to do the boot load but it looks all good

I am using MS3+MS3x on my LS4 , megasquirt has made some huge leaps . I believe the MS3pro does as much if not more than most oem ecu's now. I am sure you will be quite happy and tuning is real easy .

i am sure i will be happy with it and i feel this shows every one that that they can do about anything i mean if i can build a ECU you can to

I have loaded the bin file that i got from a guy and he has the AFR at 14.8 and from what i understood thats great for fuel economy but 12.1 is best for power is this still true or is the new gasoline that has ethanol changed all that

You need even more for ethanol... 14.7 is stoichiometric for 100% gas.

code:

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E85 stoichiometric 9.765
E85 max power rich 6.975
E85 max power lean 8.468 

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[This message has been edited by carbon (edited 08-29-2013).]

I have MS Tuner Studio lite is it worth buying the full version as i see they have a live ve tuning where you turn that on while you are driving and it is supposed to optimize the fuel tune from what i have read . this is there link http://www.tunerstudio.com/...studio/tunerstudioms

yes get the upgrade! Its worth it....

ok i will do

quote Originally posted by engine man: I have loaded the bin file that i got from a guy and he has the AFR at 14.8 and from what i understood thats great for fuel economy but 12.1 is best for power is this still true or is the new gasoline that has ethanol changed all that

quote Originally posted by carbon: You need even more for ethanol... 14.7 is stoichiometric for 100% gas.

I think he meant E10 Ethanol... IE, pump gas.

After doing some reading i know where i was getting the 12:1 ratio it is for forced induction i must have read that when i had my jet boat with the blown small block and i do wonder how much the ethanol in the gas effects it . I read that 14:7 is best for power but it cuts engine life do to you are right on the edge of burning it up but at about 13:5 for NA engine is safe and shouldnt cost you much HP. I forgot to mention all the tunning that i am familar with is old school looking at the spark plugs

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 08-30-2013).]

I am not sure if I understand , if your cruising in a light load scenario you can run as lean as your engine allows. When you start to get lean miss fires that's too lean. At WOT and full load you want to run at least 13:1 I set my AFR table to 12.75 for a mild safety factor.

Have you set up your AFR table ? If so then let "VE analyze now" do its thing and slowly work up to WOT runs.

quote Originally posted by engine man: After doing some reading i know where i was getting the 12:1 ratio it is for forced induction i must have read that when i had my jet boat with the blown small block and i do wonder how much the ethanol in the gas effects it . I read that 14:7 is best for power but it cuts engine life do to you are right on the edge of burning it up but at about 13:5 for NA engine is safe and shouldnt cost you much HP. I forgot to mention all the tunning that i am familar with is old school looking at the spark plugs

14.7:1 is stoichiometric. It is *NOT* best for power. It is best for operating catlysts.
If you don't need cats, forget 14.7.

As mentioned above... at idle and light load, go as lean as you can without misfiring. You'll need to smoothly move the AFR down to between 12.5:1 and 13:1 at WOT.

intresting so 12.5:1 to 13:1 will make best power this is good to learn the newer ways of tunning since i am use to tuning a carb by looking at plugs for a nice clean light tan and i must move ahead and learn modern engine management

ok I am looking to start some wiring so can any one tell me what wire is what on the 2 ecm plugs for a 88 gt I figure that way I can have the megasquirt right where the stock unit was or tell me how you wired it up to your engine to give me a better idea

I assume you are looking for the wires that supply things like the fiero tach, speedo, brake switch, +12DC, grounds, fused engine circuits etc. While I'm no expert, there are two great pages in this 4.9 wiring thread by rockcrawl; //www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/098096.html . You want the C500 fiero connector in the engine bay passenger side, and the C203 fiero connector under the ECM. Both are on the thread first page and will provide valuable info to integrate your megasquirt to the fiero wiring. I hope this helps...I have been looking forward to seeing this project run! If you got any progress pics, please post them. I'd love to see how things are going.

Something like these?

no i was not looking for the c500 or c203 but the actual plugs that plug into the ECM and it looks like chetw77cruiser has that so thanks guys

Something like, yes, but not those. Those are for the ECM connectors. He'll need the C203 and C500 pinouts to wire up the engine bay harness to work with the MS3 and interface correctly with the Fiero body.

pleas explain why i cant cut the 2 plugs off and wire them to the MS2 plug and then conect them to the apporopit wires on the engine by splicing them to gether

http://www.gmtuners.com/fil...203_C500_pinouts.pdf

thanks guys i should be able to do the wiring with all the info you gave me

I bought some wire from DIY tune for the wring harness so i hope to start on it this weekend and i still need to do 1 more mode to the megasquirt 2 so i have a knock sensor

quote Originally posted by engine man: pleas explain why i cant cut the 2 plugs off and wire them to the MS2 plug and then conect them to the apporopit wires on the engine by splicing them to gether

I was assuming you were starting with the Audi wiring harness...

i am doing the plug that go's to the ms2 that way all i have to do is splice wires in to the wiring harness if it is nice tommorow i will work on getting rid oe all the audi wiring i dont need but i feel i can splice it all together the way i want

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 09-13-2013).]

I got my wire and I sat down this morning and made up my DB 37 plug for the ms 2 but I have to go into work soon so that's it for today I will do more tomorrow

I have been hard at work on the wiring harness and i have it to where i have the old ecm plugs cut off snd the new megasquirt 2 plug wired on and now i just need to slpce it to the audi harness and i will be done with that then i need to hookup colling and fuel to start it up

Wow did i have a brain fart i just need to splice the Audi conector ends on to the harness now not graft in the whole Audi harness

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 09-19-2013).]

I was wondering what you were thinking...

You should use the Fiero harness for power, grounds and signals to the body (temp gauge, tach, fuel pump relay, A/C comp relay, many others)
You should use the Audi harness for the signals and controls to/from the engine
Graft it all together at the MS unit.

Pay careful attention to routing, as it's much easier to route the harness neatly now than it is to re-work it later.

[This message has been edited by Will (edited 09-24-2013).]

ya i need to get back on it as there is not much left to do on the harness but i have been helping out with my dad and mom as he had a hart attack friday and she has alzhiemers so she cant be alone. He is fine now but he has 4 stents and still needs a little help with thing