Sorry, but I don't know, the tips were on a 6 cyl. Fiero I bought a long time ago & are used.
There are no marking on them for brand or part number.
Well, I think I remember them from the old shop. They were sitting with all the "stuff" you had. I remember them because at the time, I liked them, and I do recall we had no idea what brand they were. I knew they looked familar.
Arch, what tips are those. I'm still "tip-less" but I like those.
I have some that (are not for sale) came from here http://www.drgas.com/exhaust_products.htm . I can't find them right now, but they look close. Notice the Fiero exhaust? That's mine. Look around and you might have better luck than me...
You may remember a few months ago Chris Lewis had his ChopTop car back in here so we could fix-up his 300ZX headlight install & put a new Fiberglass nose on the car.
This time We're putting a WideBody on his ChopTop.
You won't see a lot of the initial assembly of the WideBody here, it will mostly be the finishing of the body & a few other things. Several months ago, we had begun the installation of the WideBody on another car. About half way thru that install the customer found that he couldn't complete that part of his conversion. So we had to remove the WideBody & put his original parts back on the car. So this rear clip, the door panels, front fenders, Rockers & rear bumper were already on the shelf when Chris brought his car in a week or so ago.
It didn't take long to remove his original body
And start installing the WideBody parts
In the mean time chris was searching for a wheel/tire package that didn't break the bank.
He found something that looks pretty good & is REAL inexpensive. He has 9" wide wheels in the rear & 8's up front. On my White ChopTop car I had used some 2" thick wheel adapters in the rear. The adapters have inside & outside registers & are made by a great old Drag Racer in CA.
With them on, it looks pretty good.....
We also are installing one of our decklid spoilers. These fit all fastback style Fieros. You don't need a ChopTop or WideBody to use this spoiler.
Originally posted by FieroDev: Hey Archie, do you happen to have any more info on how you did this taillight mod?
Yeah, I should have written this up before, but I never got around to doing it.
So remember, you asked for it.
Using the Camaro lights was just an idea we (Rob, Kris & myself) had when standing around trying to figure out something different to do to the rear end treatment. Initially I thought that it might be a new product we might develop for the Fiero people. Initially my specifications for coming up with something was that it had to fit in the notchie space. I didn't wnat to modify the tail light height. I didn't want to modify the trailing edge of the trunk or the top of the bumper. So that ment that we had to find a tail light that wasn't too tall.
However, as you look thru this, you'll see that it turned out to be much more complicated than you might initially think. So the idea of a kit has been put aside for now.
By now everyone has noticed that we mounted the Camaro lights upside down, but we also mounted them on the other side from where they are mounted in the Camaro. Of the 4 Camaro taillights none of them are identical. The outside Camaro lights have more curve to them than the inboard lights. So we ended up buying 3 each of the inboard Left & Right side Camaro lights. We then inverted them & swaped sides for the Fiero installation.
Initially we were thinking about having 2 of them per side, so I bought 4 lights to start with.
We mocked up the initial tail light concept....That's when we found that we could us 3 of them per side.
I ordered 2 more lights from the dealer & we made a pc. of flat fiberglass to start the mock-up.
The Camaro tail lights were deeper than the original Fiero lights, so we had to remove the plastic pockets that the original lights set into. Later, we also removed a little of the sheet metal in this area of the trunk.
We had to come up with a way that the lights & light panels could be removed & replaced for painting & future service. So we made a flat fiberglass floor & in these pics we temporarily hot glued the legs from the vertical fiberglass to the floor.
To make this mounting so it would be a bolt in we made pockets on the top so that they could be bolted in using the same fastener holes that the original lights used. Then the bottom of the mounting would snap in at the bottom & bolt in from the top.
We also had to figure out how to mount the lights solidly into the mountings, that's why you see the fiberglass walls we made between each of the light openings.
Then we mounted the mountings back into the car & temporarily hot glued the taillights exactly where we wanted them.
Out of the car again, we made 3 mounting tabs for each of the lights...
We then removed the lights again & fiberglassed the mounting tabs in place....
Then we put them back into the car & you can see the backs of the lights from the trunk area. We will fix that later by boxing it in.
We fitted & removed the assemblies several times to build the details into the fiberglass housings. We had to build the outboard ends....
& the edge of the floor along the bumper..
Now, you gotta admit that Rob & Kris are pretty good at taking a concept & making it work.
Then we put some primer on the parts to see how it was going to look....
Like I said, I was initially thiking I might make a kit out of this but it would be pretty intricate & complicated to make a mold or tooling to build these assemblies.
Fot the center part, we made up a fiberglass part that bolts on with a stud thru the center of the rear wall of the trunk area...we are going to decorate it later when we figure out what we want. This center section has to be removed first when you're wanting to remove either of the tail light assemblies.....
These pics show the metal box we welded into the holes in the trunk area....
After painting, the detail of the tail light assemblies looks pretty good.
With the MadArch WideBody kit, we keep the original door handle in the original location but with the WideBody it's located up under the Door Caps. The original door lock is located up under the door cap too. On several of the WideBodies, including my White notchie ChopTop WideBody, we've moved the lock location down 1.5" so that it will still be functional.
To do this, we put a 2nd hole in the door panel.....
Then we take the original door lock mounting .....
and modify it to remount the lock lower....
Then, yesterday, we started priming the body with some high fill primer
Now it's time to put the car back together & get it out the door...