That sounds great. I hope you get it back to that.
When Scott (DarkHorizon) and I were tuning the car, it was a beast. When I replaced the motor after it spun a bearing it was hands down the fastest car I have ever been in. I am hoping its just trans or clutch related. TBH I am still not ready to deal with it. This whole car thing has turned into a chore and not a hobby.
I have to finish Garths 85 before starting on mine. Maybe January....
Classic good news, bad news situation with the turbo '88. Good news, my engine is not damaged. Bad news is, every single flywheel bolt backed out and egg-shaped the bolt holes. So I need an entire clutch kit. Not cheap for a L67/F23 swap Fiero. Moral if the story, GM cam bolts (ARP) are a big fail in my opinion. Use GM fw bolts.
I need to know the EXACT clutch kit and FW bolts needed for this swap. I am going to call SPEC and get their 3+ for it.
All the suspension bits are getting powder coated and new poly bushings fitted. I am also going to brace the U shape trailing arm (idea from the classic 3rd gen f-body mod). Even at 14k miles, my bushings are shot.
[This message has been edited by BV MotorSports (edited 12-23-2013).]
I still have a bunch of crap, I'd love for someone to come with a truck and haul them away. And the car is here.... p&p wouldnt take it with a bill of sale and signed title. Van Horns is suppose to come get it on the 2nd. So its here till then,
[This message has been edited by BV MotorSports (edited 12-24-2013).]
Just found the source I what I thought was a valvetrain noise. I was poking around the engine trying to figure out where I was going to mount the MAP sensor for my new electronic boost gauge when I just happened to spin the water pump. I got a distinct "tick" like a gear wrench makes. I popped off the water pump and spun it, no noise. Set it back on the housing, ticks. It appears the tips of the blades are making contact with the timing chain cover. Looks like I need to take a dremel to the tips ever so slightly.
Got most of my parts back from the powdercoater today. I also had the headers, y-pipe & downpipe ceramic coated in "turbo black" ceramic. I'll get some pics up tomorrow. Also, I now have a set of stock 2.8 ported & ceramic coated manifolds I'll be selling. Perfect, no cracks, no thread damage etc. I would like to start offering powdercoasted Fiero parts on an exchange basis.
Clutch has shipped, flywheel bolts have shipped. I believe we have about 90% of the parts finished at the powder coating shop. Funny how I always end up getting put to work on my own parts. lol I am getting pretty good at stripping... take what you will from that.
[This message has been edited by BV MotorSports (edited 01-07-2014).]
Heading over to Rob's shop tomorrow to finish up the powder coating. Now if I can get may lazy ass in the garage and wire in the new gauges. Oh yeah!!! I found a local guy doing hydro-dippng. I am gonna go broke.. lol
Got a lot done on the car. I just need fluids, mount the turbo, instal the suspension and put in the gauges. ..... I need to whip out my FSM and find out which wire on the C500 is for the TEMP warning light on the dash. I am going to use that to tell me if my w2a system is low on coolant. The reservoir I am using has a 2 wire level sensor.
Got it 99% back together. Just adding fluids and bleeding the clutch. Hmmm clutch isnt feeling "right". I look under the car and there is brake fluid leaking out of the bellhousing. Yep, HTOB is leaking. WTF? This car is cursed.
So now what? The previous clutch worked just fine. The original HTOB worked just fine. I add a new 3+ clutch, SCS883F, posted above, I get the HTOB spacer that is suggested for the clutch kit, put it all together and it leaks. I am at a loss. Do I rip it all back apart and put the original HTOB in and try bleeding it before putting the engine back in the car? If it leaks, then what? I am this close to putting a 4T65HD in it and call it a day.
[This message has been edited by BV MotorSports (edited 01-13-2014).]
On my first use of a HTOB back in 2005, I over extended it right when I pressed the pedal. From that day on I never install a HTOB transmission w/o confirming the range of motion of the HTOB and the current placement of the clutch fingers. This will let you know pretty quick if there is an issue or not. Also, as soon as the cradle is in the chassis, the very first connection is the HTOB. Then I test cycle the clutch about 10 times just to verify everything. Only after the HTOB checks out, do I finish hooking up everything else.
There is a lot of variation is clutch disk thickness and pressure plate design both of which change the finger position at rest - even among the same MFG.
Once you get everything worked out and issue free, you will never want to go back to the Fiero slave cylinder. The HTOB's are quite nice.
It worked great with the old setup. I didn't use a HTOB spacer with the "incorrect" getrag clutch. Though I was told I would need a spacer with the new clutch I installed. I need to call SPEC and see if there is a hieght difference between the 2 pressure plates. Maybe I just got a faulty HTOB right out of the box? Who knows....