Minor Updates:

Picked up a new heat on sale for 10 bucks!


Used this baby to remove the carpet from the door panel


I worked on both the armrest and the radio console


Like I said... not much movement this weekend. I had too much to do.

[This message has been edited by Sofa King (edited 04-27-2010).]

I love it when I have an excuse to go buy new tools!

Pat

quote Originally posted by katatak: I also read somewhere where rattle can primer is caca. Pat

LOL - caca. I love it! So far I've been really happy with the sandable "Primer Filler". It's been great stuff. It just never occured to me the mixture of the two paints would create the crackling effect. Oh well... live and learn, right?

quote Originally posted by Sofa King: What a difference between the heat gun and removing the carpet with a friggin X-Acto knife - one thread at a time.

AND reshapeing platic parts!!
and streaching the upolstry(sp)
and heat shrink
and drying glue
and bubbling up paint (don't want to say how I knew that one )

And burning the tip of your fingers...

Mechanical Update:

I had the axles and rear wheel bearings replaced yesterday - what a difference! No more CLANKY CLANKY

The next mechanical fix are the front bearings, the rear calipers and the rack - UGH

I KNOW... why didn't I replace the calipers when I had the axles replaced? The parts were not available. I so I figure I'll do the remaining parts all at the same time.

Hey Greg, I just went to the junkyard today, and picked up something nice. I found THE PERFECT pull out cupholder for my center console. However, it may be a while till I get to that project..

quote Originally posted by grkboy707: Hey Greg, I just went to the junkyard today, and picked up something nice. I found THE PERFECT pull out cupholder for my center console. However, it may be a while till I get to that project..

Quit teasing and give us a pic G! You know we are all crazy about cup holders here in Greg's thread.

Pat

quote Originally posted by katatak: Quit teasing and give us a pic G! You know we are all crazy about cup holders here in Greg's thread. Pat

I know, I know! I haven't even been able to touch my project for the past week or so. I'll see if I can squeeze some project/ picture time today.

I agree. No more tease. Where are those pics!

quote Originally posted by Sofa King: LOL! That's right. The more cupholders the better! You know it's funny. I spent all that time creating the cupholder, I haven't used it once.

Yes - but you know it's there and ready any time you desire a cup holder! Better to have one and not need it then need one and not have it......Fiero Philosophy 101!

[This message has been edited by katatak (edited 04-23-2010).]

Exactly...

Ahh, I think the emblem just looks out of place right there.

Yeah... I tend to agree. It was just a thought.

Really? I really like the emblem. The imperfection-less fiberglass almost seems boring (no offense to your insanely perfect tedious work ) I really like how it looks so far. I also noticed that you drilled 4 holes at the top. Mine only has 2 attachment holes. Is yours different, or am thinking of the wrong thing?

Both trim plates had 4 bolt holes. I had to move the holes on the lower trim plate for asthetic reasons and to account for the lip over the vents. Speaking of which, I've decided to put the lip over the vents - which means I can't place the Pontiac logo. But I'll fiddle with the design a little more before I go final

[This message has been edited by Sofa King (edited 04-24-2010).]

quote Originally posted by Sofa King: Both trim plates had 4 bolt holes. I had to move the holes on the lower trim plate for asthetic reasons and to account for the lip over the vents. Speaking of which, I've decided to put the lip over the vents - which means I can't place the Pontiac logo. But I'll fiddle with the design a little more before I go final

But your not putting the trim plates on, are you? I though you were just gonna screw the gauges into the console.

The original trim plates have already been integrated into the new radio cover. To carry over from the original console design I went ahead and drilled the holes for the hex screws. They will not actually mount into anything. I'm going to cut the heads off, create backer plates that will be mounted behind the holes and then carefully resin the screw heads into place. Which means that whenever I have someone work on the car I have to remove the radio cover so they don't break the screw heads.

As you can see by these images the trim plates are resined and adhered to the radio cover I created



Does that make sense?

[This message has been edited by Sofa King (edited 04-25-2010).]

Okay. Got it. I knew you integrated the plates in, but I thought you would have filled in the holes. Have you thought about doing so?

I was going to leave the holes filled but I'll give this design a chance. If it doesn't work, I can always fill the holes back up. Thanks god for resin & filler... and sanding... and sanding...

Quick maybe obvious question: But once you lay your glass and it cures do you sand it first, then prime before you apply bondo or do you apply bondo, sand smooth then prime?

quote Originally posted by Sofa King: Thanks god for resin & filler... and sanding... and sanding...

...and filler... And sanding...and more sanding...and filler...and sanding....more sanding...and then maybe a layer of resin....and more sanding

quote Originally posted by Galliero: Quick maybe obvious question: But once you lay your glass and it cures do you sand it first, then prime before you apply bondo or do you apply bondo, sand smooth then prime?

That's a great question: I haven't been glassing for very long (if anybody else want to jump in please do so) but depending on the type glassing you're doing heavy sanding isn't always necessary. For example. If you're creating panels that will be covered with material (vinyl or leather, etc) then light sanding would probably be necessary especially around the edges and joints that have been sealed with resin and filler. But since it's going to covered, then heavy sanding isn't necessary at all because the padding and / or material will cover any slight flaws in the glass. However, if you lay glass over an object / body panel and spread resin and then the glass then you would probably have to do a light sanding to take down any high marks - this can be done by hand or by machine and the type of sand paper you're comfortable with.

If you're going to paint the surface then YES - you have to SAND SAND SAND and it doesn't matter whether you laid glass over an object or created individual panels. Sanding preps the surface to accept the filler and the primer. Obvious holes are usually filled first before a shot of primer goes on. When the primer is sprayed, that's when you really see how many little air bubbles made it to the surface - that's when the body filler comes in. I can't tell you how many times I've sanded an object only to find out that the fiberglass dust filled in countless holes - that's when you get a little frustrated (ask Katatak). You lay your filler, sand it smooth using various grits of paper (and it HAS to be smooth), shoot another coat of primer and do the process all over again until the all holes are filled and you have nice smooth surface. There is just no getting around the sanding at all - unless you really know what you're doing and/or you're working with gel coats and stuff like that - that's beyond me. So far, every piece of glass I've worked on has required extensive sanding and filling, priming, sanding, filling, priming, sanding, filling, etc etc etc... until the surface is exactly the way I need it to be.

I hope this helps? It was a little convoluted... sorry

I don`t know if you guys are actually using full "bondo" but you ought to try glazing putty for the small imperfections.
It goes on a lot smoother and is easier to sand.
I use this. It`s a good all around putty even for your SMC.
Mike

http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=29

[This message has been edited by TXGOOD (edited 04-27-2010).]

quote Originally posted by Sofa King: That's a great question: I haven't been glassing for very long (if anybody else want to jump in please do so) but depending on the type glassing you're doing heavy sanding isn't always necessary. For example. If you're creating panels that will be covered with material (vinyl or leather, etc) then light sanding would probably be necessary especially around the edges and joints that have been sealed with resin and filler. But since it's going to covered, then heavy sanding isn't necessary at all because the padding and / or material will cover any slight flaws in the glass. However, if you lay glass over an object / body panel and spread resin and then the glass then you would probably have to do a light sanding to take down any high marks - this can be done by hand or by machine and the type of sand paper you're comfortable with. If you're going to paint the surface then YES - you have to SAND SAND SAND and it doesn't matter whether you laid glass over an object or created individual panels. Sanding preps the surface to accept the filler and the primer. Obvious holes are usually filled first before a shot of primer goes on. When the primer is sprayed, that's when you really see how many little air bubbles made it to the surface - that's when the body filler comes in. I can't tell you how many times I've sanded an object only to find out that the fiberglass dust filled in countless holes - that's when you get a little frustrated (ask Katatak). You lay your filler, sand it smooth using various grits of paper (and it HAS to be smooth), shoot another coat of primer and do the process all over again until the all holes are filled and you have nice smooth surface. There is just no getting around the sanding at all - unless you really know what you're doing and/or you're working with gel coats and stuff like that - that's beyond me. So far, every piece of glass I've worked on has required extensive sanding and filling, priming, sanding, filling, priming, sanding, filling, etc etc etc... until the surface is exactly the way I need it to be. I hope this helps? It was a little convoluted... sorry

Thanks alot this information is so important to know. I, like you, haven't been working with glass long and I am learning as I go. Alot of my information had come from PFF member and has been very helpfull. Although not fully complete I am comimg to the end of the glassing phase on my complete body kit built on the Fiero frame and yes I am aware that I ama long way from finished becuase there will be several thousand hours of sanding to be done, but I will take it one step at a time and eventually I will get done. So this info will help me move on to the sanding , bondo, priming phase. I haven't updated my post lately because I want to finish laying (not sanding) all the glass before I post again to show the members that i have been making progress and at thi spoint only pics showing all the glass layed will actually give you an idea of the scope of this project especially from a beginner like me. Its taken me along time because like you everytime Im on PFF I see something someone else is doing and I want to incorporate it in to my project so it keeps growing and changing ( for the better I hope) ! My project is in the Technical section called "Get off your Glass and do it"

So the more convoluted the better...I dont think I would comprehend it otherwise...

Glad I could be of some help. However... you've forced us to demand you to start posting pics again! You have understand, a lot of us love what you're doing and want to see the progression of your project as it changes and evolves - thus putting more fires under our own butts! It's also a great way to get ideas, learn new things and help each other out.

Now get out there, take some pics and post them! LOL

Try and paint the parts with the colors you should have and se if you get the feeling back. It can be hard to se when it´s in the wrong colors.
Just use a spraycan for a cheap test

Aw Greg! Like Sharkman said - finish it and then step back and look at it again. I think you have more time in the AC surround then you did in the console/arm rest. Maybe it's just a case of "burn out"? Go work on those door panels for awhile then come back to the AC surround. I was feeling the same way about my console. After a break, I got reenergized, finished it and now I love it! Don't give up and change directions - you are close. Build the 89 style later! Phase 2 so to speak.

Pat

You guys are right. I have to stand back from the center console and work on the door panels. Get my eyes and thoughts focused on something else. I'm not sure what happened. I have too many ideas running through my head. I'm always looking at ways to improve upon a design. I don't know how the car designers do it!

Hey Greg,

Do yourself a favor and pick up a set of interior panel removal tools. You can get several different grades/sets at Harbor Frieght for cheap. Then go to Auto Zone, etc. and get a package of GM style fastners for the door panel as you will most likely break a few if not all plus once you remove them from the door, they really will not hold good the second time around. Take your time and make sure you have the removal tool under the large part of the fastner head. If you are in the wrong place, you can damage the door panel. Near the top on each end is a metal bracket - these tend to pull off the door panel pretty easy.

There are 2 small phillips screws in the inside door handle - one behind the Pegasus/Fiero plate and the other behind a round plug. The door handle trim comes off with a little jockeying and a twist to get it over the handle. You will have to pop the door lock lever off the lock rod. With it in the unlock position, gently pry it out. I take the screws out first then go in from behind with a long skinny screw driver and pop it of the rod from the back side of the cover. 3 large phillips screws in the arm rest.

Do you have manual or power mirrors? Power or Manual windows? I can't remember.

Power windows and mirrors are easier to remove the door panel than manual.

Pat

I've got power windows so I should be good to go - thanks for the info!

Sorry for the lack of progress guys. I know I've been slacking... things have been really hectic these last few weeks. If the weather holds I'm hoping to get out there today and get some things done!

Some Updates!

It rained ALL weekend but in between the down pours I was able to squeak out some forward movement. The humidity made the drying times a bit longer. I still have a few touch ups but it's coming along.

Added more filler to the radio cover


Then took a file and rounded out all the hex nut holes


The armrest proved to be a HUGE pain! She refuses to go down without a FIGHT! It's been a frustrating task.


Added more filler to the console and then sanded


Added the first layer of gloss paint


In the car. I'm still not sure what to do about the shift console. I need to design something that compliments both the armrest and the radio cover. I'm still working different designs. If you guys have ANY ideas - please shoot them my way! One thing definite, I am going to create a little tray that sits right in front of the radio - per my original design. I think this will be permanently attached to the center console but I'm not sure yet. The tray will be fairly deep and the design will carry from radio cover to the shifter console - good stuff! Still not sure what to do with vent lip. Add it? Leave it off?


I still have a more filler to add and then the daunting task of sanding the paint, spraying the high gloss clear, sanding, clear, sanding, clear... etc etc etc. OH yeah... I like that part.

I think I'm back on track and the creative juices are flowing!

[This message has been edited by Sofa King (edited 05-03-2010).]

Nice work, I will se if I can draw something for your to get more ideas