I think that hinge you found is going in the right direction. You'll find the right combo. That's what's so great about building your own. You can make any change you want. Now is not the time to be discouraged - forge on! I want to see what you do with the door panels.
Pat
Thanks... I'm moving forward... I just got frustrated. Sometimes it takes a swift kick in the head and somebody saying "...hey stupid, stick to the plan..."
With the hinges ordered I will fill the "Dremmeled" areas of the console and lid and then sand smooth to include the areas I drilled for the bolts for the first hinge. The new hinges do not have any holes cut so I will have to tap those and start the whole process over again. But at least we're moving forward...
I'm still working ideas for the cup holder. I realized after receiving the part that I have to "pull" the cup holder open. I'm debating whether to find a "push button" cup holder. I don't want to put any undo stress on the console or the fiberglass. Also, it would be cool just to have the cup holder pop out.
Not much to report. I slopped a bunch of filler on all 4 pieces last night (lid, console, armrest and glovebox). This afternoon I will sand them all smooth, shoot with primer and then start working the fabrication part of armrest and cup holder.
Sitting in the sun
UPDATE iPhone / iPod Connector. OK... I've been talking to the guys at www.replacementradios.com. They sell every make and model of OEM radios - it's awesome! They also list any and all stock AC Delco radios that will fit in our cars:
The radio I have (U1CPA) does not have any aux connectors. So, if I want to have XM Satellite and / or iPod capability I will have to go with the Monsoon radio (UP3McdcPA) which of course is the most expensive. Here's the good part. The cost is 230.00 - that's not a bad deal considering what your local Pontiac or GM parts dept would charge.
With Christmas coming up and gifts to buy I'll have to hold out buying the radio. I cannot possibly justify any new big purchases like the radio and connectors to the "boss" - I like my life.
My orignial idea for the iPod was to create a "Docking Station" between the two power window switches. I was thinking... What if I created a docking station on the armrest where the iPod or iPhone slid in at a slight downward angle / horizontal to the armrest? Very similar to Fie Ro's idea? See below:
I sanded the body filler down on all 4 pieces and shot a few layers of primer. Found a few holes here and there but nothing major. I worked on the armrest a little - not much and I did clip some of the metal brackets off the cup holder to prep for a permanent home in the armrest. I even managed to get a shot of color on the lid.
I might scratch the armrest mounted iPhone idea. Since the cupholder will be taking up a lot space I will either have to push the iPhone back toward the lid or build a docking station on top of the console. I really don't want to add more height.
Finally, I took the Dremmel and ground down the area behind the lid lift.
The armrest after sanding
With a shot of primer
Everything put together - inlcuding the logo and 12 Volt Outlet
Another
No more hinge on top! BAD HINGE!
Showing the recessed logo - I'm really happy with the way that turned out
In all, a "so-so" productive night. I was hoping to get a little further on the armrest but the primer took a little longer to dry on this piece - weird. The hinges should be here by Friday - I'm hoping. It is nice to see the console back to a near finished product. When the hinges do arrive it's back to drilling the recessed holes then a little resin to keep them in place. With that new hinge I will have cut a hole in the glove box so the lid can open and close. Still no real ideas for the glove box yet but I'm still tossing ideas around.
Quick Edit - IDEA: To help me better visualize a final product during the build, I'm going to buy white and black primer - The lid is white and the armrest is black and everything else is grey... makes perfect sense to me!
More pics soon
[This message has been edited by Sofa King (edited 12-02-2009).]
Close up of the Dremmel as I removed the area under the lift
All done - although I might remove a little more
The sometimes forgotten backside - the console looks uneven but it's not. It was resting on dried filler and the board its resting on is warped - thus the tilt
Cup holder bracket trimmed
I used this piece of fiberglass scrap to measure the curve of the console. This curve will be traced onto the armrest piece for a snug fit against the console
I'm considering removing more material under the lift part of the lid - it would look something like this. That part would be black because of the glovebox - what do you think?
More to come
[This message has been edited by Sofa King (edited 12-03-2009).]
Looking better each day Greg. I think you should put the Ipod between the window switches - easy access and you won't be resting your arm on it. Th eglove box looks better - hidden hinge is the way to go there.
I am still cleaning glss dust out of my hair and ears - did a lot of grinding, trimming and sanding today. I hate that part! Back to work!
I learned a new trick today! Once I get all the layers down and the wax paper rolled out, I take a piece of hardwood veneered lywood and place it on top of the wax paper then apply a few spring clamps. Let it cure fore 15 or 20 minutes then remove the plywood and the wax paper - leaves the glass nearly as smootha nd flat as the glass and there are no air bubbles. It work good for small areas, Larger areas would be tougher to get the clamps on but I am going to try using something with wieght on top of the plywood.
I learned a new trick today! Once I get all the layers down and the wax paper rolled out, I take a piece of hardwood veneered lywood and place it on top of the wax paper then apply a few spring clamps. Let it cure fore 15 or 20 minutes then remove the plywood and the wax paper - leaves the glass nearly as smootha nd flat as the glass and there are no air bubbles. It work good for small areas, Larger areas would be tougher to get the clamps on but I am going to try using something with wieght on top of the plywood.
P,
Another great idea. The local home improvement stores sell those ready made shelves - that would work perfectly. But that's a great idea. Weight could be evenly distributed with paint cans? I usually leave the wax paper on the entire "curing" time. I don't want to run the risk of any dust or other foreign material sticking.
Looking better each day Greg. I think you should put the Ipod between the window switches - easy access and you won't be resting your arm on it. Th eglove box looks better - hidden hinge is the way to go there.
I am still cleaning glss dust out of my hair and ears - did a lot of grinding, trimming and sanding today. I hate that part! Back to work!
Pat
Hey P,
Thanks much! Its so cool watching things progress. I just wish it was a little faster. I think you're right. The iPod docker will look best and be more functional between the window switches. Did you read... I have to get a new radio. UGH... BUT, I swear... if that hinge doesn't work... LOL!
I was using the Dremel last night grinding down material under the "lift"... Like you, I had a lovely white tint about me... I stood in front of the fan and it looked like i was running at 200 miles per hour! The sanding is the worst part of all. I don't mind the exercise... its the dust. It's amazing. Anybody out there reading these posts and getting ready to tackle this type of work - invest (cough) in a few dozen (cough) masks...
It's 7:55pm here in El Paso and no update yet.....Greg, you slacking off or what? I'm stuck working till 9pm so I will get absolutely zippo done today. I feel jittery and sick and light headed. I need my glass fix...I think I'm addicted to fiberglass work. Or is it the resin?
I created a quick image of the iPhone docked into the armrest.
... What do you think?
I think it looks balanced with the phone face up in the center of the arm rest, BUT i think it will quickly become a PIA when you're driving and have the urge to rest your arm and lay it on the face of the phone. Personally i'd do something like this; it's out of the way and maybe even within finger-reach while you're resting your arm
[This message has been edited by PaulJK (edited 12-04-2009).]
It's 7:55pm here in El Paso and no update yet.....Greg, you slacking off or what? I'm stuck working till 9pm so I will get absolutely zippo done today. I feel jittery and sick and light headed. I need my glass fix...I think I'm addicted to fiberglass work. Or is it the resin?
Pat
LOL! I think it's a combination of both... There was a time when I thought I was getting too much fiber. Not you, you fiber junkie! You're not sitting in the corner of the bathroom rocking back and forth are you? If so... hey... pics? That's part of the build process.
UPDATE: Check it out! Guess what arrived?
SWEET! I know what I'll be doing this weekend. I swear to god... this hinge better work! LOL
I think it looks balanced with the phone face up in the center of the arm rest, BUT i think it will quickly become a PIA when you're driving and have the urge to rest your arm and lay it on the face of the phone. Personally i'd do something like this; it's out of the way and maybe even within finger-reach while you're resting your arm
Hey Paul,
hmmmm... that might work. I'll have to look at how the wiring will be affected. The goal is to have a seamless look with no wires sticking out. Also, the cup holder will be mounted in that same area. So if I mount anything atop the cupholder I have to make sure any and all wiring will clear the cup holder but also keep within the armrest. It's a good idea. I'll definately take some pics and do a few graphic mock ups.
On a different note, I did get the white and black primer. Not a huge update but it will help better visualize the finished product.
The hinge did NOT work. The edges of both the lid and the console are still hitting each other. I really thought this was going to solve the problem. I have NO IDEA what to do at this point. I might call the hinge manufacturer and describe my situation and see if he can help me. EDIT - Just a had a thought - maybe I'm attaching the hinge too close to the edge on the console side? OK all you math and physics guru's - help me out here!!!!
I'm really frustrated. Anywho... I did begin trimming the armrest and shot a quick layer of black primer. I couldn't get too involved. I have a "function" to attend this evening. "Function" is code for "...do I really have to go?"
Here are a few pics:
Hinge mocked up under the console
From the top - as you can see the hinge is resting right on the edge - maybe if I move it in?
The hinge did NOT work. The edges of both the lid and the console are still hitting each other. I really thought this was going to solve the problem. I have NO IDEA what to do at this point. I might call the hinge manufacturer and describe my situation and see if he can help me. EDIT - Just a had a thought - maybe I'm attaching the hinge too close to the edge on the console side? OK all you math and physics guru's - help me out here!!!!
Here's my Idea:
Add two little boxes shown in red (wood, fiber glass) make it out off whatever I guess and then drill the appropriate holes etc to be able to add the invisible hinge. Here is the website with an animation so you can see what I mean http://www.soss.com/ and below is my rendering of how it might look.
Hi, Sofa king I don't post on here much since I don't have my fiero any more , but I have been reading your thread very nice . I know you already tried the concealed hinge, but because it is a concealed hinge why couldn't you brace up the back of the interior of the glove box mount the concealed hinge there and build up the inside of the lid where the hinges will mount, the back of the glove box will take most of the strength still would put pressure on the lid unless it's strong maybe fiber glass a piece of wood there, that's probably a stupid idea just trying to help. reflecting on your name I actually used an antique sofa padding for the fire wall on my fiero I would post it but I really don't want to get laughed at OK I give here it is http://i618.photobucket.com...ne_03/Picture033.jpg don't laugh to hard
Love where you are going with this console upgrade.
About the hinge not working, I suspect the flat part that is taped to the console needs flipped so it is inside the "?" shaped piece and pivots within the arc of the "?" shaped piece. This puts the pivot point about 1/2" under the back side of the console and allows the "?" shaped side to attach to the lid and flip up about 90 degrees.
If they still hit, you may need to increase the gap or angle the transition for motion of travel.
[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 12-05-2009).]
UPDATES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! And YES the hinge works!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! But first...
The first thing I did was mock the hinge up a little further and it worked. So I began the process of counter sinking the screws
This didn't work! The screws were coming undone under the resin. UGH... I was so close! So I thought... ok, what could I mount that would not only keep the bolt from twisting but also add strength? So I went the local home improvement and found these tap screws
But first... I worked on the armrest. I cut a piece of scrap fiberglass to shape and resined in place.
Another
One more
I then sanded it down and shot a layer of primer - the next cut is the hole for the cupholder
I created another fiberglass panel. The glass table makes all the difference in the world! During the curing process I took a razor blade and cut the "flash" off leaving perfect hard edges
Mirror finish!
OK, back to the hinge. I bought 4 tap screws and decided to counter sink them into the lid and console using the Dremel. I first drilled a hole, pressed the tap screw in place to mark where the pointy taps will be and then drilled those holes as well - Hi Tucker!!!
Counter sunk
I then screwed the hinge all the way in place and then cut off the ends of the bolts. I'm going to use a split washer to keep the bolts from moving - this will also keep the bolts coming up through the tap screw once I put body filler over top.
Prepping to cut the bolt ends off
I put tape there to protect the console during cutting
Counter sunk
Another
On to the lid
I then bolted everything in place - a dry run... IT WORKED!!!!
There was a little scrapping between the lid and console but I'll take care of that with the sanding. We're getting really close!!!! I'm going to mock it up the car and then compare to the concept image!
LOTS MORE ON THE WAY!
[This message has been edited by Sofa King (edited 12-05-2009).]
Here is the console mocked up with the armrest and cup holder - I have to admit I did "kinda" mess up the back of the armrest. I'm fabricating a rectangular piece similar to the original concept image that will fit over top of the armrest - so it's not a complete "mess up".
From the side
From the back (before I removed the bolts) - not a very exciting shot
More shots of the armrest during fabrication
With resin waiting to dry
More soon
[This message has been edited by Sofa King (edited 12-05-2009).]
Love where you are going with this console upgrade.
About the hinge not working, I suspect the flat part that is taped to the console needs flipped so it is inside the "?" shaped piece and pivots within the arc of the "?" shaped piece. This puts the pivot point about 1/2" under the back side of the console and allows the "?" shaped side to attach to the lid and flip up about 90 degrees.
If they still hit, you may need to increase the gap or angle the transition for motion of travel.
Hi fieroguru,
Thanks for the compliments! The hinge works! I really appreciate your input. I have to admit, I was getting really frustrated. I've received a lot of help and I appreciate everybody's advice and guidance!
Thanks again!
Time to move forward!
[This message has been edited by Sofa King (edited 12-05-2009).]
Hi, Sofa king I don't post on here much since I don't have my fiero any more , but I have been reading your thread very nice . I know you already tried the concealed hinge, but because it is a concealed hinge why couldn't you brace up the back of the interior of the glove box mount the concealed hinge there and build up the inside of the lid where the hinges will mount, the back of the glove box will take most of the strength still would put pressure on the lid unless it's strong maybe fiber glass a piece of wood there, that's probably a stupid idea just trying to help. reflecting on your name I actually used an antique sofa padding for the fire wall on my fiero I would post it but I really don't want to get laughed at OK I give here it is http://i618.photobucket.com...ne_03/Picture033.jpg don't laugh to hard
Hi fierop,
There's no such thing as a stupid idea. I appreciate the fact that you took the time to help. I really don't know what I would have done had my feeble mind not finally wrapped around the problem and I was able to figure it out. Speaking of glove box, I'm going to have remove material from the top / front part of the glove box in order to make the hinge fit. Once I make that cut I'm going to permanently bond the glove box to the console - point of no return. This will then force me to focus on how the glove box will look and function.
I saw the pic of your interior. I actually liked how it looked. While it might not be everybody's taste, I respect the desire you have to customize your ride - that's what it's all about. I've received several flames from folks asking why I painted the dot matrix trim plates? We don't customize our cars for other people - we do it for ourselves. And that's the fun part.
Again, I really appreciate your input. Feel free to forward anymore ideas.
G(SK)
[This message has been edited by Sofa King (edited 12-05-2009).]
I was looking over some of the pics I took and while I'm thrilled with the hinge finally working, I'm not too thrilled with the overall appearance of the lid and console. I'm going to have add some filler to certain areas and build up areas where I've sanded too much or too little. I really want this to look as professional as possible.
Good progress made today Greg. It's getting closer and closer. A few tweaks here and there and you will have it. Excelent work! Now quit goofing around and get it done.
Good progress made today Greg. It's getting closer and closer. A few tweaks here and there and you will have it. Excelent work! Now quit goofing around and get it done.
Hope my tips on the hinges helped, glad to see the hinge is working. everything looks awsome!
Lol I sent u a pm cause when I opened the thread it was in general chat, but by time I read all 5 pages and tried to reply it had been moved to the construction zone and I wasn't smart enough to open the thread in the construction zone (Congats of that by the way.. It's well desrved man, one heck of a build thread u have here!) and reply from there lol.
Keep up the good work man, I can't wait to see it finished.
My only issue with the cup holder is when you have something pluged into av outlet it will get in the way of the cup holder..
------------------ --FallenShadow
[This message has been edited by FallenShadow 2m4 (edited 12-05-2009).]
Hope my tips on the hinges helped, glad to see the hinge is working. everything looks awsome!
Lol I sent u a pm cause when I opened the thread it was in general chat, but by time I read all 5 pages and tried to reply it had been moved to the construction zone and I wasn't smart enough to open the thread in the construction zone (Congats of that by the way.. It's well desrved man, one heck of a build thread u have here!) and reply from there lol.
Keep up the good work man, I can't wait to see it finished.
My only issue with the cup holder is when you have something pluged into av outlet it will get in the way of the cup holder..
Hey FallenShadow 2m4,
Thanks for the vote of confidence. This drama with the hinge has been interesting to say the least. Now that the hinge works it's all down hill from here. I want to get back out there and work.
I have to admit... I didn't think about something being plugged into the outlet - good catch! I haven't comitted to the cup holder yet - theres always room for a redesign. But that was a good... no... great catch! I'll have to look at this one.
OK... I couldn't wait... Here is the console in the 88 Formula. Check it out!
Without the armrest - notice I removed material from under the lift making it easier to put my fingers (more pics on that soon)
Lid open - isn't that a pretty site?
With armrest - I'll be working on finalizing the cup holder and the rest of the armrest tomorrow morning / afternoon
Before you ask... why didn't I use two hinges? When I cut the lid from the console what I didn't realize until just a few days ago is that the console is sagging in several areas - the top is one area. Had I used two hinges, in my opinion, I would have been creating too much stress on the fiberglass and body filler and would have caused the console to flex - whether for the good or the bad... I didn't want to take the chance at having nothing lining up. So that's why I only used one hinge. Also, this is my first attempt at fiberglassing. Each day I learn something new. Maybe I'll create a second console now that I now what I'm doing and what to expect. What do you think?
That's IT! No more tonight. I'm pooped.
[This message has been edited by Sofa King (edited 12-05-2009).]
I can't believe you gave up for the night! Now all you need is a fancy gas cylinder and some kind of latch system and..... I'm just kidding you. It looks great Greg. Will the lid flip all the way up and rest back on the top? The single hinge looks pretty sturdy. I don't see why you would need 2 myself. Keep after it.
On a side note,
I got some primer on mine today! I thought it was looking pretty good till I got the primer on it. I have a lot more finish work to do. Plus the primer fubar's on me. I got a lot of "fish eyes". I think it was just cheap primer. What did I do wrong? I'll figure it out tomorrow. If you are going to quit for the night, so am I. Later.
Pat
[This message has been edited by katatak (edited 12-05-2009).]
I can't believe you gave up for the night! Now all you need is a fancy gas cylinder and some kind of latch system and..... I'm just kidding you. It looks great Greg. Will the lid flip all the way up and rest back on the top? The single hinge looks pretty sturdy. I don't see why you would need 2 myself. Keep after it.
Hey P,
Yea... I was tired. With all the little "honey do's" along with working on the console, I was wiped out. I was online this morning looking for a gas strut or something that would keep the lid up - but I might need two of them to transfer the pressure when closing. Still working it
quote
Originally posted by katatak:
I got some primer on mine today! I thought it was looking pretty good till I got the primer on it. I have a lot more finish work to do. Plus the primer fubar's on me. I got a lot of "fish eyes". I think it was just cheap primer. What did I do wrong?
Most of the time when paint or primer fish eyes is because there are oils (whether body related or foreign) present and sticking to whatever you're going to paint. I would use some thinner or mineral spirits to clean the surface before the next layer. Also, spray a quick / thin tac layer before spraying a full coat. The tac layer "kinda" hides the oils and preps the surface to accept more paint - make sense? The primer you were using was fine - I wouldn't worry about that.
I've been side tracked today. The "honey do " list just turned into a "holy cr@p"... I've been tasked to sand down and old wood trunk. Dang it! I've got the paint remover on there now - I spent an hour sanding with little luck... I'm hoping the paint remover will speed up the process. UGH
I'm going to check out your thread and see if you posted pics.
After looking at this pic - see below - I'm beginning to think that building a "glove box" might prove unnecessary. There is really no room to do anything except create a little cubby - similar to the original glove box. It would be cool to finish off the area and would give it a little extra strength... dam... I just answered my own question... I should probably put something there to at least give the console more strength. DANG! LOL
AND... creating a recessed access panel to the ECM would be kinda cool... hmmmmmm (I think we touched on this a few pages back)
I removed the lid and put the console back into car. I then took a magic marker and laid it against the ECM with the tip of the pen touching the console. I then ran the length of the console "tracing" an outline of how far the wires and ECM stick out. This line will help me determine how deep I can make the glove box.
Another
CORRECTION: I accidently called these "Tap Screws". I was mistaken. They are actually "T-Nuts". Sorry for the confusion
With the lid off, I think I need to sink the T-Nuts a little further down into the fiberglass. I want to make sure when the filler is applied there is nothing sticking up.
As I mentioned I created a new fiberglass panel. This panel was 6 layers thick! I knew there was NO WAY a pair of tin snips would work. Per Katatak's advice I used a jig saw and it worked like a champ! I did a few practice cuts
Feeling confident I went and began to mock up the back/top piece of the armrest
First piece cut
Other pieces cut and taped into position - I still need to cut the pieces to fit but this is the basic idea
Another - side view
We're getting really close! I'm feeling really good about the direction I'm headed. I'm looking forward to painting the lid and console. A member asked if I was going to cover the console in leather or vinyl. The ultimate goal is to use a paint system that mimics the look and feel of leather - http://www.lederoptik.de/index.php?id=34&L=1 This paint system is a bit expensive but is significantly lighter than leather and padding - and probably cheaper. I won't be getting the paint system until next year. So, if I move as fast I think I am I'll just paint the console grey and shoot a layer clear coat until the paint arrives.
That's it for now. Back to garage to remove paint from the toy chest... boooooooo
taking meansurements for the glovebox - I've abandonded the "shell" I created - too much fabricating and sanding in order to make it work.
Space Heater - 40 dollars. Resin - 10 dollars. Pack of Brushes - 6 dollars. Finding a bucket of old resin with a hardened paint brush tucked away behind a pile of dirty rags - priceless (note: that's not a bucket)
[This message has been edited by Sofa King (edited 12-07-2009).]
