+1

smoke is rolling out of the air box.....intake valves have to be open when it is firing.

quote Originally posted by Gall757: +1 smoke is rolling out of the air box.....intake valves have to be open when it is firing.

There is no smoke coming from the intake. The smoke is coming from the exhaust which is disconnected right below the Y pipe.

quote Originally posted by the300zxmaster: There is no smoke coming from the intake. The smoke is coming from the exhaust which is disconnected right below the Y pipe.

+1

It's rolling out the exhaust right after the y pipe.

Gall, come fix it for me so I can eat some popcorn. Haha.

There is no way your timing is 180 deg off.

How new are your plugs? It would be worth it replacing them if they don't look clean. It was firing on a few cylinders. When it fired on those cylinders the engine cranked faster. You are clearly in the ball park on your timing.

Either replace the plugs or at least burn them clean with a propane torch.

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 11-15-2011).]

Thanks for your verification Phonedawgz. My plugs were replaced when I dropped the engine, but they are black on the tips.

quote Originally posted by 86FIFI: Gall, come fix it for me so I can eat some popcorn. Haha.

I am clueless on this one....I am still thinking you are flooding it with bad injectors.....but I guess that has been fixed a long time ago.

I have a fuel pressure gauge installed on the fuel rail, and its acting as it should. Pressure slowly decreases, I would say 1 psi every couple minutes, but that shouldnt have any effect on it not starting.

Yep your injectors aren't leaking with that little drop.

Try this also - Turn the key on engine off, but leave it on and watch for pressure drop. It should be exactly the same. If for some reason the fuel pressure is dropping faster with the key on, there is something up with that (ie shorted injector side pin)

Do try the 'clean the plugs with a torch' if you haven't yet.

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 11-15-2011).]

PD I did try the key on engine off thing and It was the same from what I remember. I wasn't check-in what your saying to check so I could be wrong but I will look for this specifically next time. I will aslo try torching my plugs.

Your cold start injector could be sticking or the temperature switch could be bad.
Try disconnecting either one.
The cold start switch is on the same end of the intake manifold as the thermostat housing, towards the decklid hinge.
It has the rectangular connector with the spring clip. Looks a lot like an injector.
(The round connector with the single wire is the fan switch. Don't disconnect that one.)

Normally, an engine will still start without the cold start injector. It will just take a few seconds.

[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 11-15-2011).]

Raydar, I did the 7730 swap, and upon installing the trueleo I deleted and plugged everything cold start related, and removed the coolant lines running to the throttle body, so you can cross that off the list. I would love one of the Ga. Fiero guys to stop by and try and help me figure this out, I could take them out for lunch and provide the beer. Ha.

I think it's going to be running before you have time to have anyone over.

Phonedawgz, i really hope your right. I am really anxious to drive the car and actually experience he wonders and fun of the car. Haha.

quote Originally posted by 86FIFI: Raydar, I did the 7730 swap, and upon installing the trueleo I deleted and plugged everything cold start related, and removed the coolant lines running to the throttle body, so you can cross that off the list. ...

DOH! I knew I was missing something when I suggested that. I forgot about the 7730 not using a CS injector.

Haha. It's all good. I have an extra 7730 computer, I wonder if something in my ECM could be messed up and if swapping the computer itself would help anything.

That seems like a good thing to do

Another unsuccessful day. I pulled all the plugs, wiped them off, they looked moist, and held them under a torch for about a minute a piece. Put a little oil in each cylinder, advanced the distributor as much as I could and worked my way back until the cars rpms kept rising and rising and it started and immediately died. The voltage in all 4 pins on the injector harness that have 12v when not cranking dropped to around 9 volts during cracking. This isn't supposed to happen on the pink wires, what would cause this? Battery is good, I swapped the ECM over. Now my key is stuck in the ignition in the run position and it will turn forward to crank the car, but not back so if my car was running it wouldn't turn off.

I have two ideas. If I get the moates aldl cable and run diagnostic with Tunerpro while I am cranking, will there be any useful #'s to look at? Also, I know the when you buy a trueleo intake new, it comes with a chip to compensate for the extra air. Is the 7730 smart enough to make this compensation itself? Will it need to be retuned? And is it enough that it would cause the car not to start?

I bought my truleo new, I didn't get any chip for it. It was a couple of years ago however.

Well, I guess I can cross that off. Ha. I would think it would cause the car to run lean.

Your intake being less restrictive would only make a difference at higher RPM. It won't make any difference at lower RPMs and surely none at cranking speed.

Don't add any more oil now unless it really seems to make a difference. The idea of adding the oil was to compensate for the oil that was washed off of the cylinder walls during the time the injectors were squirting way too much fuel.

Pull the fuel pump fuse and see if you can get it to run on starting fluid.

Be careful, the engine could backfire and shoot burning gas out the throttle body (anytime the air filter isn't connected). Always have a fire extinguisher handy when you crank an engine with the air inlet open.

Tuner Pro can tell you if the sensors are looking like they are making sense. Also let us know what the pulse width is during cranking.

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 11-17-2011).]

Ok, well when I add oil, it usually starts and runs for a little and shuts off in most cases. I also have had the weather pak connector disconnected so when and if it does ever run, i can set the timing.

I would have the weather pack connector connected to start it. You can always unplug it once you get it running. Having the weather pack connector plugged in will make the engine run better/start easier.

That's why I asked. Haha. Working on replacing the lock cylinder right now.

Did you pull the fuel pump fuse and use spray-can starter fluid?

quote Originally posted by 86FIFI: Got the ignition cylinder installed all thanks to 300zxmaster for working on it when I wasn't around. Tried starting with weather pack connected for a few minutes, and it sounded like it wanted to start but never actually did.

Sounds like your ignition is still retarded. Sorry I think the politically correct term is "special". Try turning the distributor counter-clockwise.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Custom Fiberglass Parts

Paul- Haha, and at this point ill try anything. It seems like everytime I mess with the car I do the same this and get the same results.

I found this bolt and washer under the car, what is it for? All 4 cradle bolts were still there.

tHE HEAD OF THE BOLT LOOKS A LITTLE SMALL, BUT LOOKS LIKE MAIN PULLEY AND BALANCER BOLT.

That may be it. How the heck does that come out though?

[This message has been edited by 86FIFI (edited 11-18-2011).]

It looks a lot like the bolt that holds the harmonic damper on the crankshaft!

Try some more advance till it does the crank stop thing.

You are using the cylinder nearest the alternator as the #1 cylinder correct?

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 11-18-2011).]

quote Originally posted by 86FIFI: That may be it. How the heck does that come out though?

Yeah that's the only thing I can think of with a washer that thick. Perhaps someone was using it to turn the engine & didn't realize they loosened it.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Custom Fiberglass Parts

I don't think it is the main pulley and balancer bolt, the head looks like a 16mm or so, not an 18mm. So PD you may be correct. Car has sat in same spot for a while, and it just fell out. Also, I am using the cylinder under the dogbone as cylinder one.

Soooooo... What is everyones next recommended course of action? I am not quite sure what to think. The only thing i can think of is check the compression because everytime we put oil in it seems like it wants to run but only for a moment. Any fiero experts wana come hang out for the day??

I got the cheapest spark plugs I could find autolite 23 plugs so I can see if that's my problem.

quote Originally posted by Gall757: Did you pull the fuel pump fuse and use spray-can starter fluid?

Yes, same thing. Fuel isn't my problem. My injectors are fine.