What is confusing to me, is that the car ran before installing the trueleo, which involved removing the distributor and valve covers and thermostat housing, and the fuel rail and injectors. after resembling Everything it won't start. Just doesn't make sense.

You removed the injectors and re-installed them and now they are not working right...so it sounds like you installed them wrong...or plugged in the harness wrong, or somehow created a ground where there was not one before.

You must have me confused with someone else. Only problem I have had with my injectors was the fact that one of the unused pins when doing the 7730 swap was grounding them so on prime or when they got power they sprayed. All these other tests are being done to cancel them out as a problem. Also, not sure what you mean by plugging them up wrong since they batch fire anyway.

OK, sorry, I should not jump in here....I thought I understood what was going on, but apparently I don't..

I am open to all advice and help towards finding a solution. It just seemed like you just jumped to conclusions and what you said from what I have found out so far is not my problem.

When probing the connector for the injector harness, the the all 4 of the wires dropped to around 8 volts during cranking. What would cause the pink/white and pink wire voltage to fall?

A discharged battery or poor connections between the battery and the injectors.

Check to see how much of a drop you have at the INJ1 and INJ2 fuses.

Check to see how much of a voltage drop you have at the battery.

Check to see how much of a voltage drop you have at the power distribution posts under C500.

The other problem I see is the ECM is not firing the injectors if the voltage is the same on both sides of the injectors during cranking.

Q1 - Does the fuel pump run for two seconds when you first turn the key to ON (not cranking it)

Q2 - Does the SES light come on and stay on when you have the key on engine off?

Q3 - If you bump the starter, does the fuel pump come on again for two seconds and then turn off? Note - Just bump the starter. Cranking it will build up oil pressure and also turn on the fuel pump and that isn't what I am looking for.

Q4 - Does the tach move up to about 200 rpm during cranking and then fall back to 0 when you stop cranking?

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 11-08-2011).]

I do have a discharged battery after all these attempts to start, I will charge it overnight and take it to be tested tomorrow as well as change my oil since it smells highly of gas. Tach jumps to a little below 200 upon cracking. Fuel pump primes on key on. And comes back on when bumping the key. The SES light comes on and stays when the key is on.

Charge your battery and re-preform the tests on the four wires of the injector harness.

Ok, I feel like this isn't a fuel problem though. I am pretty sure my injectors are fine. I have my fuel pump unplugged for now in hope to "unflood" my car. I will leave it this way for a little while. Since every time I tried to start the car, which was a lot, all that primed fuel was sprayed into the cylinders. I need to try and let it burn out trying to start or something. I still smell fuel while cranking even though the pump is unplugged. We will see what my tests tomorrow yield and go from there I guess.

Don't use teflon tape. The tape shreds when the the threads are threaded. Never on fuel, never on natural gas/propane lines. The shredded material will plug the tiny control orifices.

If it is designed to fit on the test port it should have o-rings already in it to seal correctly.

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 11-08-2011).]

Alright, I won't use teflon tape! Haha. Thanks for the tip.

Multiple Post.

[This message has been edited by 86FIFI (edited 11-09-2011).]

So no question the injectors are pulsing.

So now what? I plugged the fuel pump back in today as well. Car just turns over and that's it.

So there is no amount of fire that you get at all right? No puffs or back fires?

A timing light between the coil flashes consistently? The timing light on the spark plug wire fires also but 6x slower?

You followed the static timing procedure of turning the crank clockwise till the timing mark lined up with 10 deg before tdc and made sure the rotor was pointing at #1 and the prongs and points of the reluctor and stator lined up exactly?

Check to see if the timing mark seems like it is in the right place. It should be just off a little bit from the crankshaft keyway. You have to remove the crankshaft bolt and washer to see the keyway inside the crank damper.

The timing grove in the dampener should be slightly counter clockwise of the crankshaft keyway

Also, i have been meaning to ask, with the 7730 swap, Evap was deleted, so the hoses and the canister by the air filter can be removed right? That goes for the metal lines along the trunk wall?

Have you tried to electrically unplug your MAP sensor?

Not recently. I tried to start the car before coming inside, and it just kept turning over, nothing happened and battery was getting low.

If the vacuum to the MAP sensor is disconnected, or the MAP sensor is bad, the ECM will dump an excessive amount of fuel into the engine.

Keep in mind my injectors were spraying on prime for quite a while, and that fuel has to go somewhere. It's no longer doing it, but I think there is still a lot of fuel in there.

The fact that it turned over gives me some hope. I bought that dang fuel pressure gauge and fittings, and I don't know if I even want to chance having them on there. I need to get this thigh figured out before too long, I just hit 200,000 miles in my truck. I want to build a motor for it but would need alternate transportation.

Put a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder, or at least the rear ones. Too much gas might have washed the oil off the cylinder walls and you might have a compression problem.

I put a little oil in the back 3 cylinders, and tried starting the car, and it fired up and would only run while I was pressing the gas. As soon as I let off it shut off and would not start again. The tach is at exactly 200 rpms while I am trying to crank, but when it acts like it wants to start, it jumps to a solid 400 rpm.

So throw oil in the front three also.

Sounds like you're still getting too much fuel. Did you try pulling the fuel pump fuse & see if it would start - maybe using starting fluid if it doesn't start after several attempts?
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Custom Fiberglass Parts

I will PD, was in a hurry this afternoon.

Paul, my injectors were stuck open for a while, I wouldn't doubt if there was fuel standing in the cylinders. I think everything should be good now if I could get the old fuel burned

I put some oil in the other 3 cylinders, and car fired up and smoked so bad you couldn't see through it. I never let the pedal off the floor, and never idled above 2500 rpm, and eventually shut off and would not restart.

So mark your distributor - or take a pic of it where it is - and then bump it counter=clockwise a bit and see what it does.

When cranking does the starter stop sometimes and then crank forward? Like this video - If so then go clockwise

VIDEO OF TOO MUCH ADVANCE


Rotating the distributor counter clockwise advances the ignition.
Rotating the distributor clockwise retards the ignition.

--

Yeah the smoke is the oil burning off. It was expected.

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 11-13-2011).]

It just turns over and over, and sounds better when the gas is pressed. Doesn't really cut out during cranking. It is pretty consistent for the most part. I've played with the timing a little bit, but it usually just starts once which is odd to me.

No matter where I rotated the distributor it never acted like the car in the video. But after adding oil it started right up. But only for like 5 seconds and wouldn't start again. This is odd, it starts with oil in the cylinders and quickly dies.

So did you try the oil again and it did it again?

Try the oil but also advance the distributor and see what happens. If you do get the crank-stop-crank then retard it.

Ok, 300zx master took a couple videos with oil in just the back three cylinders. When I put it in all six, it ran for a few six.

Still not running completely. When we put oil in the cylinders it seems like it wants to run for a second but then just smokes and dies. Then nothing until we put a bit more in a second time but it just did the same thing. Acts like it wants to run and fire for a second then dies. Seems like the cylinders are washed down a bit. I think we are going to rent a compression tester and check it.

Here are the direct links to the videos. I cant seem to get them to embed properly.

http://s638.photobucket.com...51-1321402770889.mp4

http://s638.photobucket.com...77-1321402506757.mp4

[This message has been edited by the300zxmaster (edited 11-15-2011).]

Honestly sounds like it 180 off to me. The only time I have accidently done that was my duke so not really sure how a six might differ from the four.

Possibly, but its not back firing or anything, but it won't hurt to put the rotor at #4 on the distributor with the piston at the top of cylinder one or the crank at 10*TDC.