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  Trinten's SBC/F23 build - The work has begun! (Page 11)

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Trinten's SBC/F23 build - The work has begun! by Trinten
Started on: 08-17-2009 10:48 PM
Replies: 414 (19041 views)
Last post by: La fiera on 04-22-2018 09:30 PM
FieroMaster88
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Report this Post07-06-2014 11:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FieroMaster88Click Here to Email FieroMaster88Send a Private Message to FieroMaster88Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Awesome! Looks super clean. I would love to have him redo my engine swap in my 88.

------------------

88 Coupe: 2.0L Turbo 4 Cylinder, W2A, T25 Turbo.
84 Indy #64: Restoration Project, Super Duty 4 swap

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sleevePAPA
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Report this Post07-07-2014 06:04 AM Click Here to See the Profile for sleevePAPASend a Private Message to sleevePAPAEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I'd like to see some videos of it rippin' some sh!t up

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ericjon262
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Report this Post07-07-2014 04:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by FieroMaster88:

I would love to have him redo my engine swap in my 88.



wouldn't we all...

------------------
1st class A**hole.

we're in desperate need of a little more religion to nurse your god-like point of view...

http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/119122.html

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fieroguru
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Report this Post07-07-2014 07:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by FieroMaster88:
Awesome! Looks super clean. I would love to have him redo my engine swap in my 88.


 
quote
Originally posted by ericjon262:
wouldn't we all...


Thanks guys!

I am taking 6 months to a year off from customer swaps to focus on R&D to expand my product offerings...

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ericjon262
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Report this Post07-07-2014 08:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by fieroguru:


Thanks guys!

I am taking 6 months to a year off from customer swaps to focus on R&D to expand my product offerings...



!! I look forward to the new stuff! any particular products in mind???

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Jefrysuko
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Report this Post07-08-2014 09:25 AM Click Here to See the Profile for JefrysukoSend a Private Message to JefrysukoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Yep, looks great Guru. Looking forward to seeing what else you have to offer here in the near future.

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FieroMaster88
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Report this Post07-08-2014 07:14 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FieroMaster88Click Here to Email FieroMaster88Send a Private Message to FieroMaster88Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I'm interested to see what else you make! I always need something new/cool for my Fiero.

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Trinten
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Report this Post09-05-2014 08:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for TrintenSend a Private Message to TrintenEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

So I've been doing some light driving on the Fiero with only a few minor hiccups, that I think I have resolved (thanks to FieroGuru's willingness to put up with my phone calls!)

I also went to swap out the old Sony head unit I had in there, and get a Kenwood in place that would be flush mounted with the Humount mount.

The part showed up today. I had done the wiring harness a few weeks ago, using bullet connectors to connect the Kenwood harness to the GM harness, this way if I ever wanted to swap out the stereo again, I'd have the GM pigtail in place, just need to put bullet connectors onto the new headunits pigtails, and bam!

I still need to play with it, the Fiero silver piece that sits over everything isn't sitting right. I thought it was the two tabs that are between the HVAC control cut out and radio cut out, so I trimmed them, but there is still a gap between the back of the panel and the front of the Humount around the face. The lower right corner of the Fiero panel has no play in it at all (wont' go back any further), but the center will flex to touch the Humount. This could be a simple as I didn't screw the Humount in all the way. It also leaves a small gap along the right hand side, where you can see the white plastic of the Humount.

I'll put up some pics tomorrow.

Also, couldn't connect the power to light up the Humount yet, the wires are too short to splice them into the bullet-connector I have in place already, and I didn't want to cut up the harness more than I needed to. So I'm going to extend the wires for the Humount.

And I need to probably redo the harness wiring anyway. When I powered up the stereo, only one speaker was working this time. I reached behind the dash and jabbed the wires with my fingertips, and two more came on. That leaves the driver-side rear speaker, not sure if the speaker is toast or if my wiring is so bad that no amount of playing with it would make it work.

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Trinten
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Report this Post09-13-2014 06:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for TrintenSend a Private Message to TrintenEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Okay, so I figured out what the issue was with the fascia and the rest of the stuff.

The two lower guide holes for the screws were (are) hitting the corners of the Humount bezel. I was able to put a little flex on it and fit it on there, however the holes for the fascia do not line up now. Good news is that the two tension retaining clips on the fascia, and the tension from the guides pressing on the side of the Humount are holding it snuggly in place.

I also soldered the two adapters together last night, and wired the Humount's LED lights to the main Ground and the 12v Ignition on wire.... but they didn't light up.

I made the assumption that the white wire with the small piece of red banding on it was the negative (since usually it's the negative wires that are a solid color w/ a stripe), but I might have this backwards. The good news is, in anticipation of this possibility, I did not solder the wire extensions I put to the LED leads. I just did the "Western union" twist on them (like I do before I solder), and then taped them.

Since Autofair is next weekend, I don't feel like taking it all apart again just to flip those wires, but I did leave the smoked plexi out, so the "Fiero GT" is a nice contrasting white against the black bezel. So it looks good enough for now.

Next project before autofair is to split the juice that's powering the fuel pump and the water pump to their own fuses. Right now those two things are running off their own relays, but the same fuse. I have everything I should need to do the split, just need to take the time to cut-and-splice. FieroGuru did a great job of soldering/heat shrinking everything on this wiring panel, but I'm a little hesitant to try to get my iron in there, so for this I'm going to use crimping butt connectors.

Then I'm going to drag the vacuum out there and give the interior a good vacuuming and cleaning... then do what I can to clean the outside (which looks terrible, but paint is always last!)

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Trinten
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Report this Post09-26-2014 03:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for TrintenSend a Private Message to TrintenEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Here's a pic of my Humount flush stereo install kit. I need to take it back out to trim it up around where the screw holes pass through in the bezel. Because of the round circles/stands on the back of the bezel, it doesn't quite sit right or line up to be properly screwed in, but the tension there holds the bezel in place.

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Trinten
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Report this Post09-15-2017 11:06 AM Click Here to See the Profile for TrintenSend a Private Message to TrintenEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

The importance of buying exact replacement parts when you have a modified car, and knowing how to drive stick.

Hi everyone! It's been a few years since I've had the car back, so I wanted to update everyone.

Overall, for such a heavy amount of modification, the car has been amazingly trouble free, there's been a few hiccups, mainly due to the parts. Like I had an odd oil leak I had to chase down, and discovered that my intake was not sitting flush with the engine, so a shop fixed that (partial planing out the bottom of the intake and adjusting the gasket).

Minor crap aside, here is my tale of "How I learned I've been driving a manual wrong... and what it did to my car."
Let me start by saying I effectively taught myself by puttering up and down a back street. From reading I knew "riding the clutch" was bad, but you needed to do a little of it to get rolling from a dead stop. My mistake was I also thought that as you shifted, you should start to give it a little gas near the end of the clutch re-engaging (as you lift your foot) to try to get the flywheel and clutch to be spinning at a closer rate. This would, in my mind, provide a smoother ride, and only marginally impact clutch wear.

The issue was, when driving aggressive, I would do the same thing. The inch or so before my foot was completely off the clutch pedal, I'd start pushing down the throttle. I was making my belt jump off and get chewed up with regularity (5.5K-6K shifts from 2nd on up, belt typically jumped between 3rd and 4th gear).

I foolishly chalked it up to "This is what happens when you have modified toys." and just dealt with it. FieroGuru was baffled, he had put on aroun 700 miles, and said he had some aggressive driving, and had no belt issues. Let me stress here that I am standing behind FieroGuru and the awesome work he has done, this is entirely on me. I'm just giving some background.

So I lived with the belt issues, and always kept a spare. Then one day when putting the belt back on (it had just hopped off, no damage), I notice there's a piece of metal missing from the belt tensioner (I have pics, I will post them up later this weekend). To me it didn't seem to impact it's operation, so I ignored it. Dumb move 2. Or maybe 3 at this point? Anyhow.

A local buddy was helping me out with some stuff, and I mentioned the belt issues. He looks at it and says "That's broken. The stop is gone, so the spring is pulling it forward too much." Oh... well, that might help explain the belt issues. I text FieroGuru, and in <10 minutes he tells me exactly what kind of car it's out of, and even gives me the freaking part number! What a memory!

Off to RockAuto! All the pictures look the same, and since I was buying Gates heavy duty belts, I figure I'll get a Gates tensioner.

It shows up, I go back to Mikes, he takes out the plate holding the tensioner... they are not the same. The Gates is an "improved design" (again, I have lots of pictures, I will edit this and put them all in). The improved design moved the bolt holds ever-so-slightly. Mike marks them with a grease pen and carefully opens up the space on the plate. Then we discover the pulley won't swap over. Now it gets complicated.

I offer for us to go up to a parts store and just grab the exact part number Guru gave me. He likes how beefy the new one looks, and wants to make it work. He built his 700HP Grand National (old school mechanic), so I trusted his expertise and amazing collection of tools he has to get this done. So he digs through his buckets and boxes of parts, and finds another pulley (from a Grand National) that is not ribbed, but is "lipped". He says he's done pulley swaps like that before, and shouldn't impact the belt life. The pulley fits! It's also a little bigger than the old pulley.

New pulley goes on. Tensioner goes on the bracket... and there's some clearance issues when the tensioner rotates. A little more grinding (with him commenting on the strength of the steel plate that the bracket was made from), and it's working. Next challenge... larger pulley, means belt length changes.

For giggles, we tried one of the Gates HD belts, it was not going to work. To the parts store!

I brought the old tensioner and one of the belts, just for comparison. While there, I did pick up a Dayco tensioner that is exactly like my old one. We picked up two different longer belts (I'll list all of the belt sizes when I put the pictures up).

After some trial and error, we got it all together. He was also helping me fix my A/C, so we take it for a test drive to Walmart. This is the first time he's been in the Fiero with me driving (he's driven it a few times). After a little babying, I jump on it in a free-and-clear space. It holds up. As we continue the cruise, Mike says "Well, I found your problem."

"What's that?" I ask.
"You. You don't shift correctly."
... "What?"
"You're giving it gas before the clutch is fully engaged on every gear."
"Right?"
"No. You should let the clutch fully engage before you give it gas."
"That's... going to the ride kind of jerky when I shift."
"If you're shifting when you're not supposed to, yeah. But when you hit it right, it'll still be smooth."
"Well damn, now I know why Guru said my last clutch only had about half it's life left, with only 5 or 10K miles on it."
"Yup."
He then explained with how I was shifting, the tensioner was doing a lot more work, and was snapping around more than it needed to, this whipping effect on the belt made it easy for it pop off. Well damn.

So we get refrigerant, and on the way back I practice what he told me. Sometimes it was not pleasant, but after a little bit, the shifts were almost as smooth as when I was "riding" the clutch a touch at the end.

Driving home was interesting, going into second gear a few times was a head bobbing experience, but 3/4/5 were all pretty smooth.

He also told me about how Buick had a "screw-drive" solid tensioner, and that if I wanted to explore that, he'd try to figure out how to put it into my car - simply to make it easier to put the belt on by myself if I ever have to replace it again at the side of the road or something.

As part of my roadside kit, I'm keeping the old style tensioner, with the pulley Guru gave me, and the belt for that setup, along with the 4 sizes of socket/wrenches I need to swap all of that stuff in the car. I need to put together a roadside bag like Guru's.

Again, I'll edit this with pics on Sunday or Monday, and make a post so everyone will know when the pics have been added.

My thanks to FieroGuru for continuing to be awesome and response when I have questions and I am not near my computer to go through my notes -- as well as the quality of his work, which won some great recognition for clean install/clean wiring at car shows, and a lot of impressed nods from mechanics and engineers alike.

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fieroguru
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Report this Post09-15-2017 07:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Vince, glad you figured it out, are enjoying the car, and that it has received several favorable comments about the swap!

You might want to consider a specialized alternator pulley that is called and Overrun Alternator Decoupling pulley (OAD) that will help reduce accessory belt vibrations.
https://aviondemand.com/pro...-vs-overrunning-adp/

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 09-16-2017).]

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La fiera
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Report this Post11-13-2017 06:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for La fieraSend a Private Message to La fieraEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Trinten:


My thanks to FieroGuru for continuing to be awesome and response when I have questions and I am not near my computer to go through my notes -- as well as the quality of his work, which won some great recognition for clean install/clean wiring at car shows, and a lot of impressed nods from mechanics and engineers alike.


I was very impressed with Guru's work when I saw your car for the first time!!

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Trinten
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Report this Post04-22-2018 08:32 AM Click Here to See the Profile for TrintenSend a Private Message to TrintenEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

So as the Fiero is down for repairs, and one of the things that needs to be fixed is the headlights/bucket assembly on one side, I've been looking at other options besides putting back in the twin 90mm Hella lamps I had.

I found this - an LED 4x6 headlight assemble I'm considering (though may not get this exact one, I don't care about the RGB 'halo' around it) - https://colorwerkzled.com/c...pre-built-headlights

I also admittedly like the new style of headlights that Acura is using across their entire line. So I'm wondering if the top of the GT bumper can be modified to fit those in there, and then the headlight panels would be patched and smoothed over. This would be problematic as I still intend to do the F355 nose that Amida makes, so I'm factoring in that as well. If anyone has any (technical) thoughts on this, please chime in!

Also, I did realize that I failed to post the pictures I intended to add to my last post. I need to see if I ever moved them off my phone to my computer, and start that process.

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La fiera
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Report this Post04-22-2018 09:30 PM Click Here to See the Profile for La fieraSend a Private Message to La fieraEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Nice to see you are bringing the monster back to life! Let me know when you come to Mooresville, I'll break my piggy bank and treat you to Burrito Loco. (This guy can eat!!)

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