Here is a pic of my progress on my harness. I still need to blend the two relays, and the C203 in to the harness. I will attach the seven wires to the C500, into the rest of this, after it is in the car. There are 4 wires from the ECM to the transmission Park Neutral switch also. It is still attached to my C500.
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-04-2010).]
I didn't get much work done with my harness today, The wife was rear ended on the highway, and her car totaled out. She just got a good case of Whup Lash. A new Dodge 1/2 ton truck hit her Elantra in the rear, bounced off to hit a guard rail, then into on coming traffic where it was stopped in its tracks by Dodge Diesel with Monster Mudder Tires.
I have finished rebuilding the harness today, except for the C500 part. I will join it togeather with the rest on the engine. Maybe tomorrow. I'll get a picture of the monstrosity before taking it to the garage.
The owner called me Friday evening. The kid across the street from him backed into it with a large truck. The pole bumper went threw the windshield, and damaged the drivers door a bit. Maybe a few other things. I just lost interest in it at that point. Oh well, back to working on my car tomorrow morning. We spent the weekend in New Orleans, La.
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 11-21-2010).]
I haven't done much out on the Coupe for a while. I removed the harness a while for a rebuild and started putting it back on the engine. I had made some of the connectors to short, and a few to long again. I took my side cutters and removed all the plug in connectors from the car. I tagged each and took a picture of each for re installation. I boxed it all up and off to Injection Technology's it went . I got my harness this past Friday. Spent Saturday with the North Texas Fiero Club. I was able to look threw the harness yesterday and was able to talk to Katatak in El Paso about the routing of the harness. He sent me a few pictures to clarify the way he laid it all out on his engine.
I was stumped by the Alternator connections. The connectors were all tagged. One was tagged in correctly. Also I had sent them the 10 gauge wire that mounts on the rear of the alternator, and then goes to the 12+ block underneath the C500. This was not returned with my harness, and has disappeared from the assembly room at 'IT' in Arkansas. I built me a new 10 Gauge wire to feed the alternator this afternoon. I had sent them the correct Oil Pressure gauge connector, and coolant sensor connector. Both of these were replaced with something else. So I have had to purchase new connectors for the coolant sensor/gauge feed, and a new 88 Fiero oil pressure sending unit.
The harness basically comes in two parts, the C500 and the ECM harnesses. There is a one wire connection that comes apart where the ECM runs the coolant fan. This is routed threw the C500, hence the cross over. I am going to add the correct coolant connector tomorrow, and add a two wire disconnect to it so these two harnesses are still removable separate from each other.
There are no instructions as to how this all was laid out on the engine when it was built, so you have to figure it all out by your self or ask someone as I did. It looks real clean and neat, but I still have a bad taste in my mouth by the incorrect marking of connectors and the switch out of the connectors I had marked and sent.
I will start connecting the harnesses tomorrow.
I have had a small leak on the forward brake line from the MC to the equalizer valve. I think I have stopped the leak today. I was able to get the pipe tightened down some more. Enough that there was no more turn left. Cleaned it all and will see what happens there. Refilled the MC and cleaned the old brake fluid off of the frame rail underneath.
Lots to do tomorrorw.
I received my raido from Mike OHIO a few days ago. I want to get it installed some time this week also. Picture stolen from his listing in the Mall.
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 12-13-2010).]
Installed the harness today. My OXY sensor was about 6" to short, so I will add some length tomorrow. I have replaced the connector for the temperature gauge to match my engine and added a disconnect to unplug the temperature gauge lead from the ECM leads. After I do the OXY sensor I will add the battery tomorrow. Maybe a ride.
The brake line fitting is as dry as one could wish for today. I'll call it fixed after a road drive one day this week.
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 12-14-2010).]
Sounds like you have it whipped Joe!. I hear you on the "bad taste" thing. I really hate it when you spend good money for something and it shows up wrong! Guess that's why we strive to do "everything" ourselves.
Good day today. I inserted the necessary length of wire for the OXY sensor. I made a flat piece of metal to connect the two lugs of the power distribution block underneath the C500. This wasn't returned to me from 'IT'. Mounted the ALDL to the console. Noticed that there is not a lead in position 'G'. That should be the fuel pump powered up spot.
Attached the C500 connector to the car. Installed the battery.
I was going to raise the car up and attach the purple started wire, and noticed that my car still has this wire attached. It comes straight out of the Neutral /Park switch. I didn't have to remove it. So if I used this lead I would be bypassing the safety switch. I am just gonna keep what I have, and hope it will still crank to start up.
I did notice that where the harness plugs in to the N/P switch, it is yellow coming in , and purple coming out. There isn't a purple wire in the transmission part of that connector. So the 'IT' purple lead is dead anyway. No way the start signal could get threw to the starter with their harness this way. I called 'IT' about this and the ALDL 'G'. I got another "Sorry Joe". Go Figure.
I have to connect the throttle cable and power brake vacuum hose back up. I have a few more wires to attach. The AC lead, and the red wire that was marked alternator, that needs to be connected to 12V+ somewhere. A few tie straps to attach to keep everything orderly and free from hot burns etc.
Brake line is still dry.
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 12-15-2010).]
Man Joe. Sorry to hear you are having problems with "IT". I bought mine through the Fiero Factory - it's made by IT but maybe they pay a little closer attention to the quality when they are building it for thier big customer? The only issue I had was that the fan runs constantly? Hope she cranks and fires.
Pat we just do the best we can. Sometimes that is good enough.
Wonderful news today. It is alive again.
I replaced the brake hose and a few of the other items I had left to do. I also enlarged the hole in the plastic pass threw for the firewall and installed it on the firewall. Turned the key and NADA no start signal. I used a piece if wire to jump across to the starter lead and it turned over, but would not run. I tried some gas down the throttle plated, and NADA again. Pulled the 12+ to the distributor, and the metal center was pushed back out of the plastic connector part. Removed the plastic part and plugged in the metal connector. Fired right off with my jumper.
Went to the other side of the car and pierced the yellow lead to the P/N switch at the C500, and then jumped it there. Fired right up. So I am not getting a start signal from the C500. This all worked fine until the 'IT' redo. I am not gonna blame them unit I have figured out the exact cause of this. I will get this figured out tomorrow. We are supposed to get up to 55 tomorrow. Good day for a ride.
Went back outside for a little trouble shooting. The start signal is pinned in socket 'A4' on their C500. My car is wired 'E2" for the start signal. I will call them in the morning to see how to remove the metal pin out of 'A4', to re pin into 'E2". In all fairness I have determined that these 88 cars were wired in one of these sockets,or the other. And of course mine was pinned in the incorrect socket.
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 12-16-2010).]
I have switched the pin into the new socket 'E2'. I will finish with the C500 connectors tomorrow morning.
I found a good write up on removing the pins from the C500. Bloozberry's post in this thread. There is a white plastic "terminal position assurance" (TPA) piece that needs to be removed before it will come out. Took me about 5 minuets to do the socket switch out. //www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/099987.html
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 12-16-2010).]
Well the old Fiero Two Step today. One step forward, two backwards.
Re connected everything, and would not start up. Re connected the VATS bypass and got it going again. My AutoXray 5000 will not read the ECM. Worked fine before. I drove the car today about 3-4 miles. It is starting off in second gear, I am thinking it is in the 'Limp Home' mode. I will have to check grounds tomorrow, and the sockets in connector 'A' for the proper wiring for the ALDL.
Engine is idling around 1800 RPM Idled fine before this harness change.
Running in 'Limp Home' mode.
Pulled the three ECM harnesses and verified the 4 ECM grounds, and the feed for the ALDL socket M, ground connection for socket A and the timing disable in socket B
Pulled and re seated the ECM Prom with no luck on a scan
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 12-17-2010).]
This morning I removed the ECM harness from the car and verified all wiring with my ohm meter. I found one metal pin left unseated. It went 'click' when I pushed it all the way in to the socket. Everything else was golden.
I am starting to think that my ECM has gone south.
Took a day off and helped a needy family today. Back tomorrorw.
Put the harness back on the engine, and installed one of the ECM's I got two dayas ago. ECM scans, and runs the car. Seems like It is still missing the brute force that was there before the harness switch out.
I am threw with this project untill after the Holidays are over.
Merry Christmas to all of you good folks here at PFF -Joe
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 12-22-2010).]
Pat I was hoping that it would be here today, but not to be. I am sure it will be here Monday as it left Ft Lauderdale, Fl on 01-06-11 at 7:00pm. Looking forward to a nice ride around town. I am thinking positive here.
We had a beautiful sunset yesterday, like the one, one of you guys posted a while back. I didn't have a camera with me.
Gonna be COLD here the next few days. Down to around 25 at night for the next three nights. -Joe
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 01-09-2011).]
This is a re post of my ride today as posted in my 4.9 Limp Mode thread in Tech today:
Well Good News at last. Limp Mode is gone. Stickpony's chip cured all the ill's. I have the famous 4.9 monster launch from stop again,. All four gears are engaging, as well as the TCC is locking up. Talk about TORQUE!!!!!!!
I did run into a bit of a snag, but I do not think Sticpony's chip has anything to do with it. I have installed a second EPROM I got in the mail yesterday, and the 'hitch' is still there.
"HITCH" After doing the idle learn procedure I went for a drive. Drove to get fuel first. About 3 miles or so away I could feel a surge coming and going with the engine. I noticed that the scanner was showing -34.6*F. The normal temperature would come back, and the surge would disappear. After adding 4 gallons to the tank, I pulled the coolant sensor connector and added it back to the sensor. I then drove around 10 miles or so and all was fine again. Until it started the -34.6*f reading again.
Back home I started wiggling the wires attempting to find a place that would duplicate the problem. I couldn't make it happen. I am planning on ordering a new AC Delco coolant sensor and AC Delco TPS connector. If I have to I will add new wire all the way from the ECM plugs to the sensor.
I am just a few inches short of calling this swap finished.
Had a real nice ride today in the car otherwise. Maybe 20 miles or so.
Stickpony's chip solved most of my problems. No way his chip is involved in this last hurdle to clear.
Originally posted by josef644:
Well it got up to 42*F outside a while ago so I went back out to the garage. I am thinking I have located and fixed the break in the circuit. I had added a new connector to the harness for the coolant sensor. Injection Technology had used a connector for the Cadillac,(no gauge), so I added the one for my engine and the gauge as Mickey_Moose posted. One of the solder joints I had made was bad. I put new solder joints and heat shrink on all three wires. I can't get the -34.6*F to come back again.
Went for a nice 30 mile trip. Smooth as glass. Got into closed loop mode. 1800 RPM is 70 MPH. I am gonna calibrate the TPS and re do the idle learn tomorrow. All systems are GO right now.
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 01-11-2011).]
Great news Joe! I can't answer intelligently about the coolant sensor. But I am sure you are on the right track. Glad to hear the car is driving again - Gotta love that 4.9 torque!
Found and repaired a bad connection on one of my solder joints. All is Golden today.
Ya might want to think about having Stickpony' do you a chip. Solves a lot of problems .
I was running only 1800 RPM at 70 MPH yesterday afternoon after I fixed the coolant wiring snag.
Tomorrow I plan on using some duct tape to hold down the ALDL wire, and the lighter socket wires before mounting the rear console inside the car. I can then add the shift surround and the automatic shifter bezel and the ashtrays. I have a fine leather automatic shift knob that will finally get put into the car.
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 01-12-2011).]
Is this radio installation a plug and play type of deal or does is require modification? My car has an aftermarket stereo and I can't stand tiny little buttons and lack of a clock.
Plug and Play not quite. I had wired my car to accept the newer style GM connector. There are adapters that you can purchase to make it plug and Play. You will also need the adapter for the antenna as the one in the Fiero is a bit to large to plug in to the antenna hole in the rear of the radio. You can go to http://replacementradios.co..._261&products_id=166 and purchase everything you need to make it work in your Fiero. The owner is a Fiero guy and will be happy to help you with any questions.
Thanks. It may be a moot point. I discovered my car's stereo does indeed have a clock. Just had to get out my microscope to see the button to show it. I can probably live with small buttons as long as it has a clock.
I took a nice 102 mile trip around Lake Livingston today. This is my first trip more than 10 miles away from my home. All went smooth. The car starts good and performs excellent. Pretty well stays at 192*-196* F while driving around. I am not real happy about the noise level inside the car when driving. I guess quiet is a trade off for torque. I was also put off a bit by the speed of the fuel gauge dropping as I drove.
Removed the speedo cluster and reconnected the necessary wires for the SES light to work. I had cut the wire before I took it in for the first inspection. I should have fixed this the same day. Now I have the EPROM working correctly, so the SES light is not on and off blinking like a turn signal.
About 30 effortless miles today. Rain back sometime tomorrow. My seatbelt light is on all the time now while driving. I have never seen this before. I need to snap the seatbelt and see if the light goes out.
[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 01-29-2011).]