I ran over to Advance Auto Parts and bought a 4 gauge battery wire. Hooked it up to the EGR Sol point and then to the deck mount where the other ground is. Wow!!! My windows go up and down less slower and everything is so bright. I will road test tomorrow on my way to work. Awesome!!! Thanks $RICH$!!! I can't rate you yet, But I won't forget once I can!!!
I ran over to Advance Auto Parts and bought a 4 gauge battery wire. Hooked it up to the EGR Sol point and then to the deck mount where the other ground is. Wow!!! My windows go up and down less slower and everything is so bright. I will road test tomorrow on my way to work. Awesome!!! Thanks $RICH$!!! I can't rate you yet, But I won't forget once I can!!!
OK,......Ole' "doubting Thomas" here. I broke down and used yer' advise an did a couple of additional ground wires..................WoW! Thank-Yew! Winders' go up and down quicker and the stumbeling went away! Here's a Kiss!! XOXOXO
OK,......Ole' "doubting Thomas" here. I broke down and used yer' advise an did a couple of additional ground wires..................WoW! Thank-Yew! Winders' go up and down quicker and the stumbeling went away! Here's a Kiss!! XOXOXO
I don't think it matters where you grpund it as lomg as it is grounded. I put one from my battery to strut bolt (the 13mm) from same strut dIfferent bolt to my dag bone bracket. Also have my main ground on the same bolt as my oil pressure sending unit. So I have the body grounded in 2 spots and the motor grounded in 2 spots. Helped, but wasn't the end all solve all.
grounding straps are dyno proven. when i was attending uti we put 7 from engine to body and 5 from negative terminal to body and got 22dyno rear wheel horese power in a 99 sscamero
Installed myself one of these, and immediately I could tell there was a difference. The electrical system is much more stable and the idle quit loping, and stays solid. I am also hoping for a 2mpg mileage increase.
Why is grounding the Decklid hinge to the Engine block important? Wouldn't grounding the block directly to the single point ground be better?
Speaking of single point grounds ( I'm just learing this stuff from this thread) does that mean if I want to improve the ground to my dashboard ( my dash & radio lights seem to dim in sync with the turn signals) I would need to run a ground from the dash back to the single point ground?
I've got a small wire that goes from the decklid hinge drivers side to a painted black metal panel on the underside of the deck lid. Can anyone identify its' function? Ohmeter says it's not connected to ground. The neighbor asked me what the panel was for- I told him it was the cover for the "Flux Capacitor". He said he didn't think he had one in his new car- I told him they stopped installing them in '94 because of radiation leakage. He said that sounded familiar. He's an attorney.
Originally posted by JT6666: I've got a small wire that goes from the decklid hinge drivers side to a painted black metal panel on the underside of the deck lid. Can anyone identify its' function?
I believe that is an RF shield that blocks out radio interference from the car ignition system since we don't have the customary steel hood.
Speaking of single point grounds ( I'm just learing this stuff from this thread) does that mean if I want to improve the ground to my dashboard ( my dash & radio lights seem to dim in sync with the turn signals) I would need to run a ground from the dash back to the single point ground?
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i would run one from the neg. on he battery to the engine somwhere like below the EGR solonid like i have pictured
A solid ground is important to proper ECM operation. It was correctly pointed out here that a bad ground can introduce resistance between the engine and the - battery supply. THis bad connection would then reference the sensors to a point above ground and not at absolute ground. Needless to say false sensor inputs can result and cause timing and/or fueling changes that can adversely affect engine operation. You can find a garden tractor battery cable at Walmart for about $2.00 which has a lug on each end with a hole. This cable can be bolted to the engine and to the point where the battery - cable connects to. A quality ground connection is a MUST on ECM controlled engines and is cheap insurance that performance will be optimized. For $2.00 I recommend that everyone make this modification. On a car as old as a Fiero I'd bet that 80% of the Fieros using the additional ground connection will see some benefit.
Awesome info, expect a + when I'm able! Have the links to the pics expired, or is it a problem on my end? Just wondering, cuz all I see are those beautiful red x's If they are expired, does anyone have any pics of where to ground to? I get the concept, just want to know what the optimum location is to ground to. Thanks!
I am just wondering if anyone has designed what is called a "Hypergrounding Kit" for the Fiero which is essentially what you are doing here with the exception that is more than just one cable. I have a "Hypergrounding Kit" in my Infiniti G35 and has made a superb difference in shifting, idle and many other things.
[This message has been edited by alex de jorge (edited 12-26-2005).]
haha...you dont even wanna see the grounding setup on my fiero...theres about 45 feet of 1&1/2 inch wide nickelplated copper ground straps running thoughout the car and in the engine compartment....
for those of you who may have ?'s in regard to "Hypergrounding", I have a website that may help clarify some of the mistery of it, if any. Here it is: http://g35driver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7848
Again, I hope this helps some of you.
[This message has been edited by alex de jorge (edited 12-27-2005).]
I tried it and it didnt do a whole lot, I just replaced my main ground cable so I didnt expect much anyway
But when I was in there doing it I noticed that the hose indicated by the red arrow in this picture was connected on the end shown in the picture but the other end wasnt connected to anything, is the other end supposed to be connected to something?
Have we figured out where the best place is to put it? Here are my options, I have a single 24" cable that I plan on cutting in half or so for 2 grounds.
1) 1 part will go from below the EGR solonoid to either the negative battery terminal or the bottom battery box bolt. Which places is better for it to go to?
2) The next best place from reading I saw was the decklid hinge, but where should this go to?
Will 24" of cable be enough? Thanks a lot guys, my car is experiencing a lot of the issues you guys are claiming to have fixed, so I look forward to putting this on!
------------------ "all pushrod motor are better than the dohc because it has less rotational mass" -rick17, MyMonte member, owner of a 3100 Monte Carlo LS
I tried it and it didnt do a whole lot, I just replaced my main ground cable so I didnt expect much anyway
But when I was in there doing it I noticed that the hose indicated by the red arrow in this picture was connected on the end shown in the picture but the other end wasnt connected to anything, is the other end supposed to be connected to something?
Have we figured out where the best place is to put it? Here are my options, I have a single 24" cable that I plan on cutting in half or so for 2 grounds.
1) 1 part will go from below the EGR solonoid to either the negative battery terminal or the bottom battery box bolt. Which places is better for it to go to?
2) The next best place from reading I saw was the decklid hinge, but where should this go to?
Will 24" of cable be enough? Thanks a lot guys, my car is experiencing a lot of the issues you guys are claiming to have fixed, so I look forward to putting this on!
i went from the EGR to the battery tray area, then from the same spot on the EGR to the neg on the battery
Alright I'll try that then, with no decklid strap.
Although I am starting my motor swap, I am interested in making my 2.8l do as well as possible before taking it out, and thanks the advice. I won't plus ya, but know that I said thanks, and to me that means more I guess.
By the way, anyone know he size and length of the bolt that holds the EGR Solenoid? Mine is missing and have no clue as to what goes there. Also, where can I et one?
It has a 15mm head, and is about 15-20mm in length. Sorry I didn't get the exact or the threads.
So I put on two cables, ended up buying a 40" cable, which made both fit perfectly. I'll snap a few pics tomorrow. The 40" cost LESS than the 24" cuz they misslabeled it, and I argued with the manager under false advertising and he let me have it for the same price as the 24" cable, which was sweet.
I used both cables are ran one from the EGR bolt to where the factory neg to frame ground is, right on the fender area below the battery. The other once I ran from the EGR bolt to the negative terminal.
Impressions. It seemed to do a lot more on your car's than it did mine, I hardly noticed it. But it is good to have, and good general maintanence. I didn't even check my windows. The car did start right up, which it rarely does, and it did it thrice in a row. We'll see if it starts right up for the rest of the week or not. The car seemed to pick up some high end power, but it was a cool night and the motor wasn't fully warm, I doubt it picked up any power. I'll see whether I'm glad I did it or not in the coming week, but I'm glad you all got good results!
------------------ "all pushrod motor are better than the dohc because it has less rotational mass" -rick17, MyMonte member, owner of a 3100 Monte Carlo LS
It is really hard to see where they go, so I'll do my best to explain.
This is the battery. In the lower left you can see the copper ending on one of the grounds, this is the one that goes from the EGR bolt to the factory frame ground. I used sandpaper and degreaser to strip the paint here and clean it as well.
This is where the EGR bolt is. Follow the cable on the right down, and you can see a silver terminal. The silver terminal is the line to the frame, but this is the same bolt that the negative battery ground goes as well.
+ for you $Rich$ I tried this trick tonight and indeed my windows go up and down faster. It also improved the perfomance of my PDL as well now it only takes one push of the switch instead of 3 or 4.
THANK U $RICH$ !!!! I installed a 4ga Stereo ground strap as shown. The result was an impressive change in a number of things. Firstly and most importantly my 2.8 is running much smoother and stronger. The very first thing I noticed when I reconnected the battery was the trunk light was whiter and brighter. Since I havn't had the car for long (one month) I don't have a lot of history with it. I also found that some previous owner had run a braided ground strap from a bolt close to the one u used, to a bolt on the deck lid. It had pulled apart from the connector on one end, so was dangling in space. I reconnected that as well. Again...thanks for keeping the post alive. It was probably the cheapest and most effective thing I have done with the car to date (other than replacing the ashtray covers....lol)
I hooked up my Hypergrounding Kit today. It works awesome! Evrything in the cars its just better. Blinkers work better, some of my gauges that were acting up now work. It shifts better. I am including pics. The cables go to four different places. They all start at the negative side of the battery and from there to:
Unless you really have idling issues, this isn't a job for the mechanically faint-of-heart and clumsy fingered (me). In other words, "if it ain't broke....". I found there is another piece of equipment above the solenoid bracket, and that piece does not appear in $Rich"s$ picture. You have to remove that, and the metal piece above the passenger's side rear strut, if you want to have any hope of getting to the bolt in the drawing. And, all that insulation and wire is 20 years old. One false move and you are hosed! The fact that I was able to do the task amazes me, since I have absolutely no mechanical talent or dexterity. However, I thank $Rich$ for the post, even though it was a bruised-knuckle-obsentiy-laced ordeal for me!! bb
I don't know if the bolt in the plenum by itself makes a difference. Since there no real precedence for installing a "hypergrounding" kit in a Fiero, I used my Infiniti G35 as an example to follow. Since installing this kit as I mentioned, it has made a big difference in my car. My blinkers which used to blink slowly now blink much faster. Some of my gauges used to jump around and they no longer do that. My shifts are much smother and nicer. Also, my car idles incredibly. This type of thing will make small diffrence in some cars and bigger in others. I hope this has clarified some.
Saw some people in the thread that didn't know what kind of cable to use for the grounding. This just popped into my head and is what I'm gonna do.... Ford uses a dual-solenoid setup on their starters. Why not use a switch-to-starter cable? It has the loop ends on both ends, is plenty long, plenty of power handling (over 100 amps) and should be a decent quality pre-made wire, so I dont have to worry about the ends corroding off in a few months.
Advance carries them on hand if anyone is interested. I know I am, since I work there....
Oh, a plus if this helps in the least bit. I like these kind of upgrades, little or no money, and easy. Yay.
.......Glad this worked for you.........
