When I did my DOHC I found that the clutch would 'just' touch the bell housing where the throwout rod passed through. Not enough to stop it all bolting up but enough to stop the motor from turning over.
I had to grind a small amount of the inside of the bell housing where it was hitting to fix it.
When I did my DOHC I found that the clutch would 'just' touch the bell housing where the throwout rod passed through. Not enough to stop it all bolting up but enough to stop the motor from turning over.
I had to grind a small amount of the inside of the bell housing where it was hitting to fix it.
Someone mentioned this to me at the shop, but the car rolls freely when we pushed the clutch in and moved the car.
No worries. I got the crank to move finally. It was the rod bearings holding it up, even though they were torqued to spec. Bad news is that now there's marvel mystery oil everywhere (but it was hilarious when it splooged).
------------------ Petty Officer Michael C Casaceli Aircraft Electronics Technician Second Class AIMD Brunswick (2007-present) Patrol Squadron Ten (2003-2007) United States Navy
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08:01 PM
Jan 12th, 2008
fieroturbo Member
Posts: 1085 From: Orefield, PA Registered: Jan 2003
Well, it's official: my rod bearing clearance is .0005" and it needs to be in between .0026"-.0032". This is the cause of all of my problems.
I'm working with the peeps at jbody.org to figure out what bearings I need. It may come down to just using the bearings off my stock rods, which thankfully are in good shape since they only have 3,000 miles on them. I'm just waiting for confirmation that the Eagle rods are in fact the same diameter as the stock rods.
It still boggles my mind how 8 thin pieces of metal are hindering this project's completion. It should be running by now, but this happened.
At least the fuel system, coolant system, and ignition system are pretty straighforward. Much less catastophic potential in those systems, and it's stuff I'm good at.
------------------ Petty Officer Michael C Casaceli Aircraft Electronics Technician Second Class AIMD Brunswick (2007-present) Patrol Squadron Ten (2003-2007) United States Navy
While seeing the progress on your Ecotec swap was entertaining, I really enjoyed watching the personal transformation from dreamer to pragmatist. It happens to everyone who takes on a project like this. It took you four years, but I got to read it in just 20 minutes!
Originally posted by FierociousGT: Have you had your car weigh with that engine?
No, but I will when the exhaust and turbo are in. You bringing up the point of weight brought me to recalculate some things, thus resulting in this thread: https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/088789.html
P.S. I love your avitar!
quote
Originally posted by crazyd: While seeing the progress on your Ecotec swap was entertaining, I really enjoyed watching the personal transformation from dreamer to pragmatist. It happens to everyone who takes on a project like this. It took you four years, but I got to read it in just 20 minutes!
You have to remember something about this swap though. Unlike the Quad 4, the N*, the 3.8L V6, etc., there was no instruction book. There was no thread to go by. There was no clue if it would even work. If I did something like a Quad 4 (my original plan years ago) it would definitely be done by now. But as I work with this engine more and more, I come to love every inch of it more and more, and I'm amazed at how well it was engineered, and I'm amazed at myself for properly engineering the installation. Like I tell people at the shop, it went into the car so flawlessly, I was more concerned that nothing went wrong more than anything, because I expected something to go wrong with that part, but not the part with the bearing issue.
-----------
Some good news with the bearing issue. After talking with the guys on jbody.org, it seems I just need to use the stock bearings off of the stock rods I have. I wish I could avoid it, but I have no clue what P/N is needed from Clevite (as I thought I had the right ones from them), plus I don't feel like spending another $100 when I have free bearings with only 3,000 miles on them.
------------------ Petty Officer Michael C Casaceli Aircraft Electronics Technician Second Class AIMD Brunswick (2007-present) Patrol Squadron Ten (2003-2007) United States Navy
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06:54 PM
Feb 18th, 2008
fieroturbo Member
Posts: 1085 From: Orefield, PA Registered: Jan 2003
Sorry it's been quiet guys... I've had stuff come up over the last month.
I'm hoping to get the bearings in next weekend.
------------------ Petty Officer Michael C Casaceli Aircraft Electronics Technician Second Class AIMD Brunswick (2007-present) Patrol Squadron Ten (2003-2007) United States Navy
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07:28 PM
Mar 16th, 2008
fieroturbo Member
Posts: 1085 From: Orefield, PA Registered: Jan 2003
I broke a rod bolt on the #4 cylinder when I was torquing it down with the new bearing in. I got the bolt out, so it's not like it's stuck in there, but I'm still pissed that I have to wait on parts again. I'm waiting on two sources for the part number. It seems that not one, but now two GM books are wrong on the torque specs for this POS.
On a good note... when I plastigauged the stock bearings, it read exactly as it should. Finally... something is correct in my bottom end.
quote
Originally posted by crazyd: While seeing the progress on your Ecotec swap was entertaining, I really enjoyed watching the personal transformation from dreamer to pragmatist. It happens to everyone who takes on a project like this. It took you four years, but I got to read it in just 20 minutes!
I had to look up what Pragmatist meant. Beefy military guy have no brain... mongo smash!
In regards to my dreams, I have this to say: I wish I had stuck with a bone stock motor to start out with, and then beef up another one on the side. I would have the car running by now if that was the case. Granted, the maximum boost level and horsepower level would both be greatly reduced, but oh well... at least it would be running.
------------------ Petty Officer Michael C Casaceli Aircraft Electronics Technician Second Class AIMD Brunswick (2007-present) Patrol Squadron Ten (2003-2007) United States Navy
[This message has been edited by fieroturbo (edited 03-16-2008).]
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12:40 PM
FieroJimmy Member
Posts: 737 From: Mechanicsburg, PA Registered: May 2002
I broke a rod bolt on the #4 cylinder when I was torquing it down with the new bearing in. I got the bolt out, so it's not like it's stuck in there, but I'm still pissed that I have to wait on parts again. I'm waiting on two sources for the part number. It seems that not one, but now two GM books are wrong on the torque specs for this POS.
On a good note... when I plastigauged the stock bearings, it read exactly as it should. Finally... something is correct in my bottom end.
I had to look up what Pragmatist meant. Beefy military guy have no brain... mongo smash!
In regards to my dreams, I have this to say: I wish I had stuck with a bone stock motor to start out with, and then beef up another one on the side. I would have the car running by now if that was the case. Granted, the maximum boost level and horsepower level would both be greatly reduced, but oh well... at least it would be running.
Broke a rod bolt? Wow, I wonder if the bolt had some type of manufacturing defect. I wouldn't expect it to break unless it was WAY over torqued.
Also, there is definitely something to be said for just getting something in and getting it running. The problem is then you have to change the engine twice. Can't wait to see this thing running.
probably a good thing the rod bolt broke before you got the car on the road .its hard to believe it would break from being over torqued without being defective to begin with .myself i have decided not to rebuild any more motors .it is too costly and it wastes a lot of time .when this build was started , in order to get a strong bottom end in an ecotec you had to change out the rods .but now you can buy the 2.0 motor that comes with forged rods and a better crank .i think the 2.4 comes with the good rods as well .on my 2.2 turbo build i now am set up to run 12 psi of boost .this should put me at the 250 whp level and still not break the stock rods .thats as far as i intend to go with this motor . this is the thread that got the whole ecotec fiero swap scene started .its what convinced me to do my build . hope it is running soon .
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04:25 PM
PFF
System Bot
Steven Snyder Member
Posts: 3323 From: Los Angeles, CA Registered: Mar 2004
If a rod bolt broke I would send them all back to the manufacturer and get a refund, and go with a different set of bolts like ARP. If they're already ARP... I dunno. That's pretty scary. Are you certain you had the torque specs right and your rod caps are machined properly? If the bottom of the nut (or if you're installing a bolt in a thread connecting rod, the bottom of the head) isn't parallel with the flat on the rod cap boss you'll break the bolt pretty easily.
What bearings did you end up having to get? Were the rods honed after you purchased them? Some aftermarket rods do not come honed; you need to have a machine shop do that and check the bore to ensure that it is circular with the rod bolts torqued...
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05:07 PM
fieroturbo Member
Posts: 1085 From: Orefield, PA Registered: Jan 2003
Originally posted by FieroJimmy: Broke a rod bolt? Wow, I wonder if the bolt had some type of manufacturing defect. I wouldn't expect it to break unless it was WAY over torqued.
Also, there is definitely something to be said for just getting something in and getting it running. The problem is then you have to change the engine twice. Can't wait to see this thing running.
Actually, me and my "God of Mechanics" buddy (aka Kurt), looked over both bolts on #4, and the intact one had one crack while the broken one had two cracks. I only torqued them to 35 ft/lbs, so they were definintely defective. I'm ordering two sets of 8 bolts; one to go in the engine, and the second to make up for any additional bad luck that may still occur.
Also, I noticed you're from Mechanicsburg. I'm from Orefield... a tiny little town between Schnecksville and Allentown. You may have heard of Parkland High School; PA state football champs in 02/03, and 2nd in the state in 07/08. That's my home town.
quote
Originally posted by Custom2M4: Keep up the good work, looks awesome.
Thanks! And BTW, I like the front air dam on your sig. Do you have any other viewing angles of it?
quote
Originally posted by wftb: this is the thread that got the whole ecotec fiero swap scene started .its what convinced me to do my build . hope it is running soon .
Dude, it means alot to me that you recognize me as someone who started a new trend in our beloved car, but I can't claim to be the first person to think of putting an ecotec into a Fiero, but I can claim to be the first to document a buildup on the internet.
And also... my sincerest appologies for luring you into such a difficult buildup. ------------------ Petty Officer Michael C Casaceli Aircraft Electronics Technician Second Class AIMD Brunswick (2007-present) Patrol Squadron Ten (2003-2007) United States Navy
[This message has been edited by fieroturbo (edited 03-16-2008).]
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05:12 PM
fieroturbo Member
Posts: 1085 From: Orefield, PA Registered: Jan 2003
If a rod bolt broke I would send them all back to the manufacturer and get a refund, and go with a different set of bolts like ARP. If they're already ARP... I dunno. That's pretty scary. Are you certain you had the torque specs right and your rod caps are machined properly? If the bottom of the nut (or if you're installing a bolt in a thread connecting rod, the bottom of the head) isn't parallel with the flat on the rod cap boss you'll break the bolt pretty easily.
What bearings did you end up having to get? Were the rods honed after you purchased them? Some aftermarket rods do not come honed; you need to have a machine shop do that and check the bore to ensure that it is circular with the rod bolts torqued...
Yeah, they're ARP... and yes, it is scary. My heart skipped a few beats when it gave out... all I could think was "Oh come on... not again!"
I think what happened was when I torqued them down with the wrong bearings installed, it kept the cap spread out a little farther from the rod than normal, and since these are stretch type bolts (where you measure their strech to tell if they're still good), and since I torqued them down 3 times, 2 of those times so I could plastigauge the bearings, I think it was just too much for the bolts to take.
The rods are threaded, not nutted on the top, but the threads are still good to go, so I really just need new bolts to get back on track.
I had the rods, pistons, crank, flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate all machined, balanced, and inspected by whom I believe to be the greatest bottom end specialist in the Northeast US. If those rods were out of round, believe me... this guy would have spotted it. I keep telling him that he should charge people to tour his shop... it is a wrenchhead's dream. He does things with cranks that I never thought possible.
The bearings I originally had in there were Clevite 77's, but the ones supplied to me turned out to be specific to the 2.0L rods, which have a slightly larger journal size. I had such a hard time trying to find someone that sells Clevites for the 2.2L, I just gave up and went to stock GM bearings. No big deal... at least I know if they go bad in the future, they're easy to replace. The way I engineered the motor to fit in this car makes for easy bottom end maintenance without removing the engine.
------------------ Petty Officer Michael C Casaceli Aircraft Electronics Technician Second Class AIMD Brunswick (2007-present) Patrol Squadron Ten (2003-2007) United States Navy
[This message has been edited by fieroturbo (edited 03-16-2008).]
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05:32 PM
wftb Member
Posts: 3692 From: kincardine,ontario,canada Registered: Jun 2005
i think that guy was just pulling your p#cker with that story .84 's dont have the trunk cooliing fan , only v6 models have those and that didnt happen till 85 .he also said his buddy had a gm supercharger kit on it and those were not available in 2003 .the thing is there were not that many ecotecs out there in 2002 .there were some saturns with them but they didnt show up in much volume till the 2003 cavilier as an option motor .too bad the pictures wont come up anymore on that thread ,might prove it one way or the other .as it stands , that thread does not prove there was a running ecotec powered fiero in 2002 (let alone one with a supercharger on it ) .now get back to work .
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05:46 PM
Mar 23rd, 2008
fieroturbo Member
Posts: 1085 From: Orefield, PA Registered: Jan 2003
All mechanical issues are now fixed. Rod bearings and bolts are good to go.
------------------ Petty Officer Michael C Casaceli Aircraft Electronics Technician Second Class AIMD Brunswick (2007-present) Patrol Squadron Ten (2003-2007) United States Navy
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01:24 PM
Mar 26th, 2008
fieroturbo Member
Posts: 1085 From: Orefield, PA Registered: Jan 2003
Electronics/Electrical: The part of this project I officially do not suck at
After extensive research with the good people at jbody.org, I found out that the 2.2L OHV ignition module I got won't work with Megasquirt... it would be exactly like using what came with the Ecotec. The issue is that MS can't recognize the 6+1 timing wheel of the Ecotec. So as a reference to anyone using MS for Ecotec ignition, you need a 93-earlier 2.2OHV ignition module (which I now have en route), or a 91-earlier module from the OHC 4-bangers. The one I got is too new, and doesn't decode the wheel properly. The older ones decode the wheel into something MS understands, and in fact, can run independently if needed.
As far as why I'm getting no injector pulse on the megasquirt, I found a bad 8-pin IC on the mainboard. The daughterboard that's in there to make it work with low-impedance injectors (like mine), seems alright, but my stim board for testing the unit may have gotten fried as well.
For the new chassis connector in the engine compartment, I'm eyeing a 22-pin weatherpack connector. The connectors to link up the MS ECM, the Relay Board, and link them to the rest of the car are still being compared. I'd like to do cannon plugs similar to what is used on aircraft due to their reliability and compact size, but they're pricey.
-----
As far as this weekend, I'll be dropping the fuel tank... I'm afraid to see how bad it is. Thankfully I've got a completely new drop in assembly. My main concern is the corrosion inside the tank itself. I'm considering getting this stuff that bikers use to coat the inside of fuel tanks on their motorcycles. When I go to alcohol based fuels, this will prevent further corrosion of the tank.
If the tank isn't too corroded, I may just wait until further down the road to worry about coating it. I'd really like to get this engine to run before I go to Florida in mid-April.
------------------ Petty Officer Michael C Casaceli Aircraft Electronics Technician Second Class AIMD Brunswick (2007-present) Patrol Squadron Ten (2003-2007) United States Navy
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10:50 PM
Mar 27th, 2008
fieroturbo Member
Posts: 1085 From: Orefield, PA Registered: Jan 2003
Hey havent been posting alot lately. I have the problem with the alternator fixxed. 4.5v is enough to activate it. I bought a little device that reduces 12v to various settings I think used for video game consoles and stuff in campers and stuff. I hooked that up and the alternator charges. Now the problem. The alternator is in like stupid mode...
...If ur looking for perfection you got some more work
Fosgate, while I was explaining the alternator issue to someone on another forum, I got curious, and I found a handy-dandy little thing that will give us perfection; Voltage regulator LM7805C. It kicks on when power drops to 10V of power on the input, and it puts out 5V to whatever you need it to. I'm a little fuzzy on making circuits from scratch, but if I'm reading the theory of operation right, it's looking for 10V or less to turn on, thus a potentiometer inline with the input will allow you to adjust when the 5V output is triggered. Basically, if you had the pot turned down all the way, it would turn on at 10V. Increase the resistance a bit, and you could have it turn on at 12V. Increase it further, you could have it come on at 13.5V.
As I said though... this is in theory. I'll order a few of these and run some experiments on a test bench at work.
Also, I think the battery indicator can also be made to work too. Not like it did when things were stock, but almost as good. I can make it turn on if the voltage gets below a certain level, but as far as telling you if the battery or the charging circuits are dead (like in stock form), I'll have to do more research into that one. But at least we can still get some warning if the voltage isn't high enough.
One possible way I can think of to make the indicator work somewhat like stock is to make a logic circuit that looks for both a low voltage level and lack of a 5V signal simultaneously, thus indicating that the battery voltage is too low and the regulator isn't working. If you had a sudden power draw on the battery, it could drop the power levels momentarily and would turn on the warning light, but with this double requirement, that could prevent the false alarm.
Ok... now my brain hurts.
------------------ Petty Officer Michael C Casaceli Aircraft Electronics Technician Second Class AIMD Brunswick (2007-present) Patrol Squadron Ten (2003-2007) United States Navy
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04:21 AM
Mar 29th, 2008
fieroturbo Member
Posts: 1085 From: Orefield, PA Registered: Jan 2003
------------------ Petty Officer Michael C Casaceli Aircraft Electronics Technician Second Class AIMD Brunswick (2007-present) Patrol Squadron Ten (2003-2007) United States Navy
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05:05 PM
TiredGXP Member
Posts: 712 From: A cold, miserable place Registered: Jan 2008
I'm hoping the engine will start before mid-April when go to Florida for a month, but it won't be road worthy till summer. There are some issues that need fixing; the parking brake is fubar, the rear end is in dire need of an alignment, and the right headlight motor needs replacement. The steering rack isn't so great right now either, but it's not at the un-safe level just yet. I have a second one lying around that I'll rebuild after the swap is street legal. I'm hoping that one's gears are still good.
------------------ Petty Officer Michael C Casaceli Aircraft Electronics Technician Second Class AIMD Brunswick (2007-present) Patrol Squadron Ten (2003-2007) United States Navy
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06:10 PM
PFF
System Bot
Mar 30th, 2008
carnut122 Member
Posts: 9122 From: Waleska, GA, USA Registered: Jan 2004
Well, I'm back from Florida, so expect an update this week.
------------------ Petty Officer Michael C Casaceli Aircraft Electronics Technician Second Class AIMD Brunswick (2007-present) Patrol Squadron Ten (2003-2007) United States Navy
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11:10 PM
Dennis LaGrua Member
Posts: 15145 From: Hillsborough, NJ U.S.A. Registered: May 2000
Looking great. The turbocharged Ecotec seems an excellent replacement for the Duke. Far more horsepower and mileage should be comparable. The install looks like it belongs. A friend of mine who has a Cobalt SS turbo 2.0L consistently gets 30MPG and runs the 1/4 mile in the low 14's and that's stock. He does 0-60 in under six seconds. Those small high tech turbo engines really scream. With a bit of work your Ecotec should be capable of mid 13's in the 1/4 mile and 0-60 times in the low fives but the real beauty is that you'll have great mileage to boot!.
------------------ 87GT - with 3800SC Series III engine, 4T65eHD 87GT - 3.4L Turbocharged engine, modified TH125H " I'M ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
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11:37 PM
Jun 21st, 2008
fieroturbo Member
Posts: 1085 From: Orefield, PA Registered: Jan 2003
Yeah, the gas mileage was the big seller with this engine, plus the fact that GM gives it alot of parts support. The Cobalt has an extra 400lbs more than the 88 Fiero coupes if I remember right, so that's 1 or 2 more MPG, plus I'm using the Isuzu 5-speed, so with the lower gear ratio #, that should improve MPG even more.
Must appologize for the lack up updates everyone. I worked several weekends, was sick for one, and I threw out my back on another. Thankfully, our workforce has increased quite a bit at work, so there will be times during the week I can get some of this stuff knocked out. Hoping to work on it this Thursday through Sunday next week, as well as me going in today and tomorrow.
Since the last post, I got a new Megasquirt. V3.0 board with an MSII daughterboard. I also got the 90 degree adapter for the turbo inlet. I'll be testing that out today, and hopefully dropping the fuel tank.
------------------ Petty Officer Michael C Casaceli Aircraft Electronics Technician Second Class AIMD Brunswick (2007-present) Patrol Squadron Ten (2003-2007) United States Navy
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09:02 AM
Jul 6th, 2008
fieroturbo Member
Posts: 1085 From: Orefield, PA Registered: Jan 2003
Sorry it has been SOOOOO SLOOOOW... but I've worked several weekends over the last two months, and it ate into my time.
Luckily, I've been knocking out alot of wiring stuff since the 4th. All I have are 4 more wires to ID on C500, then everything will be either labled or already spliced, and I'll be able to install the new connectors on the bare wires.
Also, I wired in the bosch injector connectors onto the fuel injector harness, so the injectors just need an ECM now. The ignition system will hopefully be the same story tomorrow.
The bad news is that the 90 degree elbow for the turbo doesn't fit. I had an extra inch added on the horizontal part, and it was too much it seems. I didn't take into factor the thickness of the flange I guess. No biggie. I have other stuff that needs welding anyway, like my coolant inlet pipe assembly.
Anyway, things are back on track. I've been assembling my new megasquirt at work when I get free time. I'll hopefully be finished with that at the end of the week.
------------------ Petty Officer Michael C Casaceli Aircraft Electronics Technician Second Class AIMD Brunswick (2007-present) Patrol Squadron Ten (2003-2007) United States Navy
I JUST like 30 minutes ago got mine to fire again, since last year! I had to do alot of internal modifications to Megasquirt to read the 60-2 crank wheel on my 2.4L LE5 bottom end.
Unfortunately I blew a fuse and I dont have anymore to put in (pulled every possible one from the fuse box already before lol)
Im going to add, I am looking into completely getting rid of the GM DIS setup idea as it only works for the 7x 2.2L L61 crank, and anybody wanting to the the 2.0L LSJ ecotec or the LE5 cannot use the GM DIS. And I think my setup now can do the 7x, 36-1, and the 60-2. But im still working on it
Anyways good luck, and that valve cover looks AWESOME.
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12:15 AM
fieroturbo Member
Posts: 1085 From: Orefield, PA Registered: Jan 2003
Haha... that's why I always keep tons of fuses in my toolbox.
One thing to add... you can use the coil pack from the GM DIS setup off the Ecotec on any Ecotec... but it's just a pretty looking coil pack (see pics above)... nothing more. The modules are useless, except for what I'm using with my 7x wheel. ----- Anyway... all the wires are identified with my swap. I just need to hook them all up to the new connectors, and we're good to go. I've got two 12-pin connectors from MSD to replace the old ECM connectors, and an awesome weatherproof 24-pin connector to replace the C500 connector. I've also gone from a 1-way terminal board to a 4-way terminal board. I have the + 12 V power on there as it is stock, but 2 of the terminals are for the starter solenoid.
Here's the thing with the stock Fiero system... the power going to the solenoid goes through the key switch in the steering column... I see that as a bad idea with that current going through there. The Ecotec's system just takes power from the key switch to drive a relay. The large power instead goes through the relay, which is a much better idea. This is how my setup is now wired. I can disable the starter by pulling the relay now... kinda cool actually.
Pics to come when my PC stops being a douche.
------------------ Petty Officer Michael C Casaceli Aircraft Electronics Technician Second Class AIMD Brunswick (2007-present) Patrol Squadron Ten (2003-2007) United States Navy
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06:06 PM
Jul 13th, 2008
fieroturbo Member
Posts: 1085 From: Orefield, PA Registered: Jan 2003
I dropped the fuel tank. Things looked WAAAAY better than I imagined they would. The only issues were that some of the plastic baffle in the tank was cracked and the fuel level sender only went down to 13 ohms, thus explaining why my gauge only went to 1/4 of a tank, and not any lower. The baffle was easily repaired with military grade fuel tank epoxy. The ouside of the tank had some minor corrosion, but it was easliy treated. The straps holding the tank were crap. I'm just going to get new stainless units from the fiero store. I've got a whole new sender unit and high flow pump in the tank. All I need is the straps for the tank and the fuel system will be 100% complete.
An issue I'm having at the moment is how to run the coolant lines for the turbo and the heater core. I need to figure out which pipe is in, out, hot, cold, etc. Just need to do some research.
------------------ Petty Officer Michael C Casaceli Aircraft Electronics Technician Second Class AIMD Brunswick (2007-present) Patrol Squadron Ten (2003-2007) United States Navy
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11:23 PM
Aug 5th, 2008
fieroturbo Member
Posts: 1085 From: Orefield, PA Registered: Jan 2003
Hey guys! I've been doing stuff, just haven't posted alot.
Fuel tank is back in, fuel system is 100% complete, and the thing is ready to be filled up. The baffle had some cracks, but military grade fuel tank epoxy made short work of it.
The coolant block is FINALLY done. Things will actually fit now. It's nowhere close to stock, but with clearance issues with the adapter plate and the inlet hose, plus the wastegate is going to the left now, it's what had to be done.
Also, as a reference to ALL Ecotec swaps, the correct throttle cable to use is the 85-86 V6 Fiero throttle cable. As WFTB found, it fits like a glove. I tried the one I just got, and such is the case on the engine side. I'll try to install it in 2 weeks.
I was hoping to say the turbo was in, but I had issues with it. The guy that modded my 90 degree adapter used WAAAAY too much heat and he warped the unthreded flange, so my machinst buddy at work is fixing it for me. The threaded flange with the studs fits perfect though.
Also, the oil feed adapter for the block to the turbo is supposed to be M12x1.75, the package even says M12x.175, but it's M12x1.50. Way to go Auto Meter! De-De-Duh!
The wires are all labeled and are waiting for connectors, and the Megasquirt is just waiting for me to finish assembly.
------------------ Petty Officer Michael C Casaceli Aircraft Electronics Technician Second Class AIMD Brunswick (2007-present) Patrol Squadron Ten (2003-2007) United States Navy
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12:27 AM
americasfuture2k Member
Posts: 7131 From: Edmond, Oklahoma Registered: Jan 2006
ATAN I level here at Tacamo on Tinker AFB OKC, OK. working with the dipsht CS's in the barracks. some one kill me.
------------------ 1987 Fiero GT built by my brother, merlot566jka, 3500 LX9 from 06 Malibu, WOT-TECH.com 1280 grind stage 3 cam, LS6 valve springs, 1227730 ECM conversion, Darrel Morse solid aluminum cradle mounts, Truleo headers modified to fit the 3500, 36# inectors, 70mm 4.3 throttle body adapted to 3500 intake, ported heads, upper and lower intakes, lightly polished, tcemotorsports.com crank trigger wheel, CenterForce dual friction clutch, Flowtech Afterburner muffler, 2.5" piping, cat deleted, EGR deleted, SinisterPerformance tuning, C6 Corvette exhaust tips. projected to be 35 MPG with a guesstimate of 250 hp to the wheels
[This message has been edited by americasfuture2k (edited 08-05-2008).]
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10:28 AM
PFF
System Bot
Aug 16th, 2008
fieroturbo Member
Posts: 1085 From: Orefield, PA Registered: Jan 2003
ATAN I level here at Tacamo on Tinker AFB OKC, OK. working with the dipsht CS's in the barracks. some one kill me.
Some CS's have the mentality that they're better than the rest cause we'll starve without them... believe me, there are people in the Navy that know how to cook without being a cook.
Some are cool, but with the ones that give you an attitude though, just let them have their way. When their head gets too big, and they piss of someone senior to them, then they'll learn their lesson. I've been in your shoes, working the hangar grill with 3 CS's, feeding 5 different commands, freezing your ass of in the Arctic Circle, not seeing the sun for 3+ months.
P.S., I envy you for working on E-6's. Much better deal than P-3's. They're just getting too old, and there's soooo much more BS in P-3 Navy than there was 5 years ago. 5 years ago, it was bar none, the best place to be at in the Navy, but now, I think E-6's take the cake.
------------------ Petty Officer Michael C Casaceli Aircraft Electronics Technician Second Class AIMD Brunswick (2007-present) Patrol Squadron Ten (2003-2007) United States Navy
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08:41 PM
Aug 17th, 2008
fieroturbo Member
Posts: 1085 From: Orefield, PA Registered: Jan 2003
I have finally figured out the solution to getting the Ecotec's alternator to work flawlessly with the Fiero, without using the Ecotec's ECU. It goes as follows:
For the Ecotec ECU connector, I'll be referring to connector C2 (BLACK CONNECTOR) on the 2.2L version. For other versions, it may be different, so just look for the 3 wires coming off the alternator's voltage regulator: the generator turn on signal wire (RED), the generator field duty cycle signal wire (GRAY), and the low reference wire (BLACK).
C2 pin 47 (BLACK) to chassis ground C2 pin 49 (GRAY) to C500 pin B1 C2 pin 50 (RED) to C500 pin B3
That's it! The Fiero's gauge panel circuits should work with the Ecotec's voltage regulator. There's little difference between the Fiero and Ecotec regulators, except that GM got a little screwy with the way they labeled the Ecotec diagram.
------------------ Petty Officer Michael C Casaceli Aircraft Electronics Technician Second Class AIMD Brunswick (2007-present) Patrol Squadron Ten (2003-2007) United States Navy
[This message has been edited by fieroturbo (edited 08-19-2008).]
This guy has a good deal on Forged pistons, thought I'd pass it along. He agreed to wave the $20 shipping fee from a set of forged LS1 pistons I intend to use for my forged 3900 build up, complete with rings after they were marked down about $300 below regular price to $381.
He's still apparently willing to negotiate the price on the Ecotec pistons further from the impression I received from his email.
I only skimmed this entire thread, but the engine looks beautiful in that car. My father and I are planning on ecotec swapping our 88. I feel that your thread will be very useful to us when we finally get around to doing it. I have the 2.2 in my Sunfire, and think it's a fantastic engine. Thanks for posting so much information and detail on your swap! I'm eager to see more progress when you have the time to post it up. Good luck with finishing it up!
any updates on this lately? Looks like its coming along nicely, FieroTurbo do you have an AIM Name or anything? Wouldnt mind pickin your brain a bit if you do thanks
