i added another Ground Strap about a 6inch pc. of 4Ga. Wire that goes from the 15mm bolt that holds the EGR Solinoid Bracket on, to the bolt by the battery tray where the small ground wire is that comes off of the negative Bat. terminal with the 10mm bolt, and my car runs ALOT smoother, it idles better, and seems to all arround have a little more Get up and go to it
i suspect that the stock one was just getting a little crusty, so i added another one and im amazed at the differance a 6" Pc. of wire has done!!! somthing to think about just thought id share
EDIT to add pic
------------------ Rich AIM one fast 2m8
[This message has been edited by $Rich$ (edited 01-19-2004).]
Kling on: yes, only you see your info in the sig, and only I can see Mine
Outlaw: i my batterys Just died in my cam wile taking pics of my new headlights, but i think it would be hard anyways because its kinda tucked in there,and wouldnt show up well
just look at yours, there is a ground wire going from the negative battery Terminal down to the chassie, its held in by a 10mm bolt, one end of the new ground goes there, and the other end goes to the 15mm bolt that holds in the bracket to the EGR, its either ON or right above the Waterpump
[This message has been edited by $Rich$ (edited 11-08-2003).]
if there is enough Intrest in doing this mod i will throw to gether a redy to install "Kit" that will include the ready to install NEW "HIGH Preformance " Ground Strap, full color Photo's and a full List of detailed instructions For the Introductory LOW-LOW price of Just $19.95..... But wait.... Act Now and you will Also recive......
Hey $RICH$... a plus for you... that's what this forum is all about, sharing info! Something as simple as a ground strap can cause so many problems. I can't tell you how many times it has gotten me. Kinda like power problems... how many times have we started to look for a broken, shorted or loose wire, only to find that the fuse is blown? Thanks again, Kevin
------------------ 85 Fiero-based ASPP GT-40 MarkII. 3800 S/C, Auto, Held suspension all around with 2" drop spindles and sport fr. end. RCC bump-steer correction. Mr. Mike's interior.
My 85 V6 would stall going from PARK to DRIVE on a cold start. After adding the grounding wire, the Fiero was transformed from a stumbling starter to the Magnificent Beast God intended it to be! I also lost 5 pounds, added another inch to the stickshift, and got a smile from the secretary who lives next door. Who knew a piece of wire could make such a difference! Thanks $RICH$
Today I strapped in a 4 gauge cable from my chassis to the engine block. Oh My Dog what a difference! My headlights are brighter. My windshield wipers sweep faster. My instrument cluster is brighter. The headlights go up and down faster (a LOT faster). The instruments' needles used to dip slightly with each 'click' of the turn signal, they don't any more. My engine temperature guage seems to be more stable (it would peg sometimes). My windows go up and down faster (well, Fiero window motors, they go up and down less slowly). And most importantly, my engine runs smoother and has more power.
A good ground is damn important!
[This message has been edited by smokinjoefission (edited 01-17-2004).]
You are right on the ball. now if you want it to even run better, add one from the driver side bolt on the transmisson to the bolt on the hinge (same as passenger side). You cannot get to many ground straps. Don
Good grounds are the basis for all electrical systems. Our little cars are close to twenty years old and the grounds will need attention. Its common practice to check them prior to the winter driving season.
------------------ jetman Silver 86 SE 2M6 4-speed, with "check wallet light"
[This message has been edited by jetman (edited 12-04-2004).]
Sorry to thread jack but the PM function isnt working ATM. JT666 E-mail me @ firstname.lastname@example.org or talk on AIM @ weponhead <-- no typos. I live in mont. Co. as well, Do you drive a red notchback? I may have seen you the other day.
I too added an extra earth strip last year. See the pic below. From the Fiero Plenium to the right hand rear strut. And then from the Strut to the Battery. Thus creating a new Chassis earth at the same time. Before i had over 100ohm's resistance from the Chassis to the engine. Now its 0 Ohms. I also noticed Smoother Idling, and about 2MPG better gas millage.
Paul Taylor, England. 85 GT Notchback, 2.8 V6, 4 speed manual. Custom made Tubular branch exhaust manifolds with true twin 3in exhaust system. No CAT, No EGR. No Crossover pipe. ADS Road Race SuperChip & 160 deg stat. Poly bushes all round. Lowered 2 inches. 16" alloys with 225/45 rubber. 0-60mph in 5.5 sec.
$rich$, do you have a pic of where you added this wire? i dont really know where you added it. and i d like to try this myself. i think i may have a ground problem.... light sometimes dont come up, crappy ideling, and when i start the car the volts meter light comes on, and stays on until i rev the engine.
[This message has been edited by rmphoto (edited 01-18-2004).]
I guess some electronics/sensors on the engine are grounded to the block so a bad ground connection to the battery can cause several problems. Like I mentioned before I have a braided strap from the block (I have to check the exact location) to the right hinge support. I think it is the stock setup?! Battery is grounded to the right rear shock tower.
I will take a picture of this setup if you like. Not now because it is late and raining
From what I've been able to determine from my 86 SE, the engine cradle is a pretty good insulator from the remainder of the car. I'd imagine over time that the bolts holding the cradle to the frame of the car become quite corroded over time, increasing elecrical resistance. Bearing in mind that the alternator is the main supply of power for the car, and being mounted to the engine, it would seem that over time more resistance would be created if the existing ground points are compromised or missing.
The problems that I experienced with my electricals in the cabin would seem to confirm this, as they would be most affected by a bad ground to the engine.
Just my $0.02 worth.
------------------ Smokin Joe Fission 1986 Fiero SE 2.8
Perhaps I shouldn't have taken on a Fiero that the original owner said he liked to work on, especially after it spent some time 'submerged'. At least the car was free.
GREAT $RICH$..........something we all sometimes forget about is the basics. Where the grounds are located is not as important as that they are clean, corrosion free and of proper gauge wire. In my opinion, battey cable wire is not over doing it. Especially on a Fiero. Thanks $RICH$
------------------ 87 FIERO GT 2.8 5spd
If you found my advice helpful, please take the time to give me a positive rating. Thanks
Glad to see that your ground helped you. It seems that this is one of the bigest problems we have with " OLD CARS". New ones too... I say you can never trust your grounds. They have been a big pain in the a$$ for me. I have added extra ones on the TPI swap,not taking any chances. A+ for you. Jim
good post a good ground is very important. In the days of ignition points if you had a bad ground your ponts could burn up on a regular basis. this could be a cause the ignition modules going bad.....just a guess. i wonder if a weak ground could case our windows to slow...ummmmmm
wow this thread is back from the dead, im glad too see that my info is helpfull ill go out now, and tra and snap a pic for ya'll, its dark outside but ill see how it turns out, ill post the pic in the first post on this topic
OK i posted it in the top too but here it is again Geez,... its cold as hell outside and Dark as hell too, the things i do to be helpfull so why do i have the little red showing in my bar;?) edit: also be sure to scuff up the contact points for better grounding abilitys
[This message has been edited by $Rich$ (edited 01-19-2004).]