A note about the dyno results, we found a bad sensor, and a suspected bad MAP and have come to a conclusion that the reason for the dip in AFR at 4,100 RPM is due to the computer coming out of closed loop and actually running off of sensor data.
[This message has been edited by Oslo (edited 09-01-2011).]
This open air filter intake kit will fit 1984, 1985 and 1986 Fiero 2.5L 4cyl engines, but not 1987 or 1988 - if there is enough interest, we will make one for later years as well.
The kit includes: K&N Air Filter Chrome Top Hat Stainless Steel Hardware Custom Aluminum mounting bracket Lower Air Filter Basket
The install should take no longer than 15 minutes (Maybe less) and will really make a difference in how your engine sounds, and how your engine bay looks! We do not have a 4cyl Fiero to test on the dyno with this setup, but I'd be willing to give someone a good deal on a setup if they're willing to do a dyno test for us.
Have you considered making a cover plate for the space between the upper plenums? Something black or out of brushed aluminum, possibly engraved, would look awesome!
Have you considered making a cover plate for the space between the upper plenums? Something black or out of brushed aluminum, possibly engraved, would look awesome!
This open air filter intake kit will fit 1984, 1985 and 1986 Fiero 2.5L 4cyl engines, but not 1987 or 1988 - if there is enough interest, we will make one for later years as well.
The kit includes: K&N Air Filter Chrome Top Hat Stainless Steel Hardware Custom Aluminum mounting bracket Lower Air Filter Basket
The install should take no longer than 15 minutes (Maybe less) and will really make a difference in how your engine sounds, and how your engine bay looks! We do not have a 4cyl Fiero to test on the dyno with this setup, but I'd be willing to give someone a good deal on a setup if they're willing to do a dyno test for us.
OPTIONAL: Chrome Edelbrock Top Hat:
So how much for the kit??
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1999 GMC Jimmy 2dr 4x4 1985 Fiero GT 3800 N/A ...3800 S/C being rebuilt now. 1984 Fiero Indy #1098 w/ Centerline Wheels,Hooker Tri-y header and Indy Scoop with Strobe's 1984 SE Daily Driver
Nice work on the dual TB setup. That was always my beef with the 2.8 the darn thing was always choking for air. Looks like a must have for the 2.8/3.4 pushrod owners.
Powdercoated DTB intake looks nice. Could the welds be ground smooth or would it weaken it too much? How much is the setup as shown? Still waiting to see some idle to 5500 rpm power/ torque comparisons between this and a stock intake on a 3.4.
Powdercoated DTB intake looks nice. Could the welds be ground smooth or would it weaken it too much? How much is the setup as shown? Still waiting to see some idle to 5500 rpm power/ torque comparisons between this and a stock intake on a 3.4.
If you want to see how much a system like that would cost, please go to the website and "Build Your Own" setup
As for the look of it, the welds can be smoothed out for a completely flat surface finish. The method of achieving that look will not weaken the structure.
[This message has been edited by Oslo (edited 09-17-2011).]
Originally posted by Oslo:1985 Fiero3.4L V6 with Auto-Tranny slush box with stock exhaust system and stock lower intake manifold.
+16 RWHP+28 RWTQ
No tuning. Bolt on and go.
There is more power to be had because for some reason the computer sent the car into an extremely rich condition at 4,200 RPM every time. Went from a nice 12 AFR down to a below-10 AFR!!! Need to figure that out, then I'm sure we'd see even bigger power gains.
quote
Originally posted by Oslo: A note about the dyno results, we found a bad sensor, and a suspected bad MAP and have come to a conclusion that the reason for the dip in AFR at 4,100 RPM is due to the computer coming out of closed loop and actually running off of sensor data.
I'm a bit unsure about what some aspects of your comments which I've quoted above actually mean.
More specifically...
Do you still feel the DTB manifold is a "No tuning. Bolt on and go" project, or do you now feel it very likely will require some electronic tuning by its potential customers in order to start and run well?
Have you had the opportunity to actually confirm through your testing that the 3.4L test engine with its new DTB manifold was running rich at higher RPMs because of a bad sensor or sensors, or does that remain a theory?
Regardless of your responses to my questions, Oslo, I look forward to hearing them because of what I believe to be your historically well-deserved reputation for honesty and candor.
I'm a bit unsure about what some aspects of your comments which I've quoted above actually mean.
More specifically...
Do you still feel the DTB manifold is a "No tuning. Bolt on and go" project, or do you now feel it very likely will require some electronic tuning by its potential customers in order to start and run well?
Have you had the opportunity to actually confirm through your testing that the 3.4L test engine with its new DTB manifold was running rich at higher RPMs because of a bad sensor or sensors, or does that remain a theory?
Regardless of your responses to my questions, Oslo, I look forward to hearing them because of what I believe to be your historically well-deserved reputation for honesty and candor.
Project34, thank you for your questions, I appreciate the interest. I will try to answer your questions.
1. "Do you still feel the DTB manifold is a "No tuning. Bolt on and go" project," I feel like someone could bolt on the intake manifold and go, without tuning, and the system would work. The car will have more power, and no adverse effects would be had. However, by tuning the computer for this system you will be able to realize even greater gains and performance. So the short answer is "yes and no".
2. "Have you had the opportunity to actually confirm through your testing that the 3.4L test engine with its new DTB manifold was running rich at higher RPMs because of a bad sensor or sensors" I was not involved in the troubleshooting process but Street Solutions looked at the car and said we had 2 bad coolant sensors. One for the fan and one for the ECM. They said that with the fan running all the time it may have kept the engine too cool during testing and the faulty ECM sensor for the coolant would provide skewed readings as well. Both sensors have been replaced and we have not had a chance to bring it back to the dyno.
We plan to go back to the dyno some time in October and find out some new numbers for this setup before we look into any tuning. I want to know what the most benefit someone can have is by simply installing the manifold and running it with no tuning.
Thanks for your clarifying responses to my two questions above.
Also, I think the "next steps" you plan for additional dyno testing of the DTB intake manifold make sense, and likely will be appreciated by most of those interested in this intake manifold:
quote
Originally posted by Oslo: We plan to go back to the dyno some time in October and find out some new numbers for this setup before we look into any tuning. I want to know what the most benefit someone can have is by simply installing the manifold and running it with no tuning.
Just to update this thread: I ordered a LED light package and the complete DTB intake package (incl. ported middle and lower intake manifolds) from TLG and Dean an Whodeanie Customs should receive everything soon! :-) ------------------ www.yellowfiero.com 17" DEZENT T wheels with 215/40 tires front and 235/45 rear, KONI shocks, EIBACH lowering springs, 13" Viper/Corvette brakes. PU dog bone, all bushings and engine mounts, K&N air and oil filters, battery relocated to front. Rebuilt&overbored 2.8 V6, BORLA exhaust. Mercedes SLK yellow paintjob, Mr. Mikes leather seats, door skins, shift and e-brake boots. MP3 deck and custom subwoofer behind passenger seat, F355 style front, Aus' Stage 2 side scoops, "Fie Ro" extractor front scoop. Fiero Store HD front and rear swaybars, strut tower brace, black carpet, air intake. Rodney Dickman's competition short shifter, Ultimate Getrag shift kit, SS vacuum lines and deck lid strut. Billet aluminum dash kit from Kitcarman. Pictures: www.yellowfiero.com/fieropixnew/index.php Modifications: www.yellowfiero.com/mods/index.php
[This message has been edited by yellowstone (edited 11-03-2011).]
This open air filter intake kit will fit 1984, 1985 and 1986 Fiero 2.5L 4cyl engines, but not 1987 or 1988 - if there is enough interest, we will make one for later years as well.
The kit includes: K&N Air Filter Chrome Top Hat Stainless Steel Hardware Custom Aluminum mounting bracket Lower Air Filter Basket
The install should take no longer than 15 minutes (Maybe less) and will really make a difference in how your engine sounds, and how your engine bay looks! We do not have a 4cyl Fiero to test on the dyno with this setup, but I'd be willing to give someone a good deal on a setup if they're willing to do a dyno test for us.
OPTIONAL: Chrome Edelbrock Top Hat:
We have an 86 2m4 with under 50k miles on it, I could see if my wife would let you borrow it to play with on the dyno. Would any power increases come from the K&N alone, or the fact the air is not being pulled thru the factory ducting? I have always heard the intake of a duke is restricted so that any opening up of the airflow before the intake is a nil chance of HP gain or better flow. Not true?
We have an 86 2m4 with under 50k miles on it, I could see if my wife would let you borrow it to play with on the dyno. Would any power increases come from the K&N alone, or the fact the air is not being pulled thru the factory ducting? I have always heard the intake of a duke is restricted so that any opening up of the airflow before the intake is a nil chance of HP gain or better flow. Not true?
Yes the intake on most vehicles are very restrictive, and a lot of potential is left unmet with the factory air filter systems.
We do not need help with testing the product any more though, I am pretty sure we have someone lined up to help out.
If the leds were red or yellow or something would the gauges retain their redness better?
I have done this myself in the past before I moved to aftermarket gauges, and high power red LEDs make them really red, I liked it alot better then the white I tried at first, which washed things out and the gauges appeared really yellow. I'm sure yellow LEDs would get the same effect, except it might not wash it out as much.
[This message has been edited by mattwa (edited 11-07-2011).]
<---- did you buy Cliff a beer? 
