I've checked and I don't have any photos with the Starter shown. Also checked my parts lists, and Articles that have been written on the car....no luck there either.
Quite simply, it's a 'High Torque' Tilton 'Mini' Starter for SBC Hot Rods with tight clearances. Hope this helps, cause I'm not putting it up on a hoist to pull it out and get a part number. . It's a great starter, has been in since conversion in 1993 with never a problem. I shouldn't have said that!!!
[This message has been edited by California Kid (edited 09-18-2003).]
Thought I'd do an 'End of the Season' wrap up as I'm going to be moving into my new house next week, so there isn't going to be much time to play with the 'Kid' for the rest of this season. On the 'up side' the new place has a 3 car insulated garage, just needs furnace, and I can make use of the cold Michigan Winters.
The new compound that Quarter Master switched to on the clutch disks held up well this summer. I was only able to put about 3,000 hard miles on them, so it will take a bit longer to get a full evaluation. While the grip is positive, it doesn't seem as excellent as the compound they dis-continued. I am entertaining a possible switch to their 'full metallic compound' and will investigate with them about the idea of going with a metallic 3 disk setup (if it will package in the same space as my 2 disk setup as the metallic disks are thinner). If the disk hubs can be altered in thickness a little, this might be a strong possibility. Have talked with a couple people running 'full metallic Q M Disks' on the street, their having no problems, and get better life than I do with the organic compound (about 13k miles).
Hoping to get the furnace installed in the garage by the end of next month, so I can do some more intake and head work improvements this winter. May go with full 'Super Ram' and heads haven't been touched in 30k miles, so I'll send them out for a good 3 angle valve job while the engine is taken down that far. Many other little improvements/add ons to do, so I'd have a full plate for this winter. Now if I can only stay out of my usual 'Bear Hibernation' act, I'll be really ready for next spring.<Big Grin>
Thanks guys! The car just has a cramped 2 car garage to sleep in (nothing special yet). With interest rates down, I'm going to start shopping for a house with a 3 bay to keep my toys in!
Finally did it, now I just have to get settled in, and start shopping for a hoist!
lol, and I thought me moving into a 4 bedroom house with a pool and a 2 car garage was nice...if I could I'd live in your garage if the cars were included! lmao
thats an awefully small tool box for being a fiero owner. just kidding. i personally think your car is awesome. i've got a deal with the parents that if i do good in school(wyotech) they'll help me get all the parts for the 406 i want to build for mine.
Thanks guys!!! I've still got another tool box at my other house where my red '87 GT will spend the winter. Probably put that one on the market next year when I have it back together (sprint header job almost done on the new '88 engine in it). Still have to get the new garage organized, tire rack on wall, work benches, lights, etc.
It is a beautiful car. One of my favorite Fieros by far.
You mentioned you were thinking about putting a full Super-Ram intake on it...have you considered the T.P.I. Specialties Mini-Ram? It is the intake I am pondering for my 'Vette. And if you are not familiar with it, it is a dead ringer for an LT-1 intake, except it fits the Gen1 small blocks.
Thanks Jon, appreciated the compliment very much!!!
I had considered the Mini Ram, but frankly I just couldn't come up with enough reasons to switch over to it. The system on my car, even without the bigger chamber lower intake pictured above, flows great up to 6,200 rpm before it falls over. I can't explain it very well, but I've gotten use to the gobbs of torque on the low end, the Mini Ram would reduce the lower end and wake up the top end. While a screaming engine on the top end is real sweat, you also have to remember it's going to cut into the durability of the engine as well, everything has a price.
While the Mini Ram would offer you a little more top speed, I've had my car to 165mph with some throttle left, and I can safely tell you that I'm not looking for any more top speed!!! The main reason I even toyed with the idea of going Super Ram Upper was for 'Wow' eye factor, it just looks cool, and real hot rodders notice it quickly. Real significant gains just wouldn't be there overall, unless I planned on taking the car to the Great Salt Flats! .
For city driving, first gear really isn't too short for general cruising, I don't have any objections with it. If I really want to run someone from a dead stop, I got enough low end torque to do a 2nd gear start that feels like first gear in most hot rods. I guess it's just a matter of personal preference, I'm going to switch the lower intake out this coming spring (Lingenfelter claims 30hp with this part over stock, I'll be happy for 15hp as stock intake was ported) and possibly switch up to the Lingenfelter Billet twin 58mm Throttle body (I'm running slightly rich overall right now with the twin 52mm). I've been very pleased overall with this setup, it seems to be balanced very well for the engine.
Thought I had the lower intake pictures in here already, see below: It was developed by Lingenfelter and Accel for maximum flow.
I know I've probably missed responding to a few who have posted in this thread, and Thank You All for taking the time to respond!!!
Tom
[This message has been edited by California Kid (edited 01-09-2004).]
Thanks Jon, appreciated the compliment very much!!!
I had considered the Mini Ram, but frankly I just couldn't come up with enough reasons to switch over to it. The system on my car, even without the bigger chamber lower intake pictured above, flows great up to 6,200 rpm before it falls over. I can't explain it very well, but I've gotten use to the gobbs of torque on the low end, the Mini Ram would reduce the lower end and wake up the top end. While a screaming engine on the top end is real sweat, you also have to remember it's going to cut into the durability of the engine as well, everything has a price.
While the Mini Ram would offer you a little more top speed, I've had my car to 165mph with some throttle left, and I can safely tell you that I'm not looking for any more top speed!!! This would be the same for me switching to the Super Ram Upper, delivers a little less on the bottom, more at the top. The main reason I even toyed with the idea of going Super Ram Upper was for 'Wow' eye factor, it just looks cool, and real hot rodders notice it quickly. Real significant gains just would be there overall.
For city driving, first gear really isn't too short for general cruising, I don't have any objections with it. If I really want to run someone from a dead stop, I got enough low end torque to do a 2nd gear start that feels like first gear in most hot rods. I guess it's just a matter of personal preference, I'm going to switch the lower intake out this coming spring (Lingenfelter claims 30hp with this part over stock, I'll be happy for 15hp as stock intake was ported) and possibly switch up to the Lingenfelter Billet twin 58mm Throttle body (I'm running slightly rich overall right now with the twin 52mm). I've been very pleased overall with this setup, it seems to be balanced very well for the engine.
Thought I had the lower intake pictures in here already, see below: It was developed by Lingenfelter and Accel for maximum flow.
I know I've probably missed responding to a few who have posted in this thread, and Thank You All for taking the time to respond!!!
Nice! Always loved the zx7's! Who cares if they're a little heavy, they've got a unique look that no one can deny. It's sad Kawasaki stopped making them this year.
I used to have a 95 CBR600F3 myself. No, I didn't wreck it. I had to sell it due to financial problems. I miss that thing, being a broke 21 year old sucks!
Dose youre car use the fact suspension pieces or are they all custom made? I am building my 85 gt into a auto X and poss road racer and some info on youre set up would be appreciated . Youre setup is diff because its a 88 but if you could point me in the general direction great! Some pics too if you have im of youre suspension. What brakes dose youre car have? I have to comment on the tilton starter too. We have used it in our circle track car for 4 years now and never a problem. Even when the motor is hot it will fire up no problem. This year we changed to a light weight battery with only 500 cca and still no problems great thing to have
------------------ 85 GT 4 speed 2.8L auto X'er
[This message has been edited by red85gt (edited 12-26-2003).]
Red85GT, Suspension and brake wise there isn't very much shared on the Fiero's below the '88 Model Year. Basically nearly all the content in my car is spelled out it this thread, there may be a few items I'm not aware of that were done by the first owner, but I haven't discovered them yet.
Your best bet is to talk to the guys who have Auto X'd their similar year Fiero's and get tips directly from them. There is quite a bit you can do with the suspension, if you have the original factory rubber bushings, get them out of there first, go urethane (everywhere), springs would be next, followed by good sway bars. As far as the brakes go, vented would be better, freshly rebuild calipers, and performance pads. Carbomet pads work pretty nice, but there are better choices out there for a few more bucks. For Auto X and Road Course dedicated use, I highly recommend an adjustable front to rear brake bias valve, to dial the rear brakes out just a tad under the factory valve setting.
Aside from that, the most important part is just learning how to control your car, what it will, and won't do. It takes a lot of knowledge/experience to understand how far you can push your car, once you've got that mastered, performance parts can make a bigger difference. If you haven't had your car on a track yet, you should do it because it's a whole new world (keep in mind you have no protection insurance while you're playing there).
It's difficult to recommend anything to someone without knowing what kind of budget they're on, and exactly how the car will be used overall. Personally, If I were to build a car for the purposes you mentioned, I'd find an '88 GT with a blown engine, and not in very good shape (dirt cheap), and start from there.
[This message has been edited by California Kid (edited 12-26-2003).]
I wish there was a 88 anything available. 88's are very rare and have high price tags. $1000 plus even without a motor I bought my 85 from our insurance company for 700 as a front end write off. I was just wanting to know if you have the stock 88 susp or do you have custom made susp pices? tubular arms or something similar? Any alum parts hiding between those rims lol My car will live on the track. I have raced it a few times this past summer in auto X and dragged it a few times. 16.52 best et. Right now I am focusing on body mods. scoups and stuff makin it pretty I love youre car its one of the best Have a great new years!
[This message has been edited by red85gt (edited 12-26-2003).]
The metal suspension bits are stock, they are plenty strong, and you can't get any lighter (enough to make a difference anyway) with comparable strenght (parts aren't available, nothing in aluminum). The parts produced by HELD may have some advantages (especially for settings) over stock, but I haven't seen any data that they are in fact stronger than the stock pieces, or that the weigh less (again, you won't see big numbers in reduction). Like I said above, as far as I know these parts haven't been modified, but they haven't been fully examined against a stock part for comparison. The car is going to get a 4 wheel alignment this spring (spin-out at Waterford Race Track put the front end alignment out just a touch), so I'm going to replace all ball joints, and front wheels bearings cause I've got them on the shelf. This will be the first work done on these parts since I've owned the car, if I find any modifications in this area, I'll post what the changes are.
How does the drivetrain handle the torque... I saw your clutch specs (way cool)... did you do anything to beef up the transaxle, cvjoints, etc.. my son and I are working on an 85 GT conversion (just in the planning stages)...we are gonna do an Archie conversion and I am trying to figure out if the automatic will handle the torque produced by a ZZ4 with 400 HP... I know the stock automatic will work if I keep my foot out of it most of the time but will it handle a bunch of runs in a row at the local speedway?... any thoughts would be greatly appreciated...
oh yeah...i forgot one thing in my last post...what an awesome vehicle... will you give us a match race when I am done with our fiero???(you'll probably smoke us)...
How does the drivetrain handle the torque... I saw your clutch specs (way cool)... did you do anything to beef up the transaxle, cvjoints, etc.. my son and I are working on an 85 GT conversion (just in the planning stages)...we are gonna do an Archie conversion and I am trying to figure out if the automatic will handle the torque produced by a ZZ4 with 400 HP... I know the stock automatic will work if I keep my foot out of it most of the time but will it handle a bunch of runs in a row at the local speedway?... any thoughts would be greatly appreciated...
The stock Getrag handles the Torque of a standard re-built Getrag just fine with no issues. Of course that means it must be driven within reason and not side stepping the clutch at 5 grand on a regular basis, if you now what I mean. I induced a failure on my trans after about 30,000 miles by not checking clearances to newly installed trans case halfshaft needle support bearings (trans location is not stock). So I picked up a low mileage Getrag, had it disassembled, had all metal internals ultrasonically hardened/stress relieved, and a full complete rebuild adding the Phantom Posi Unit as well early part of 2003. These extra treatments were for peace of mind, not necessarily required. The splined axles are Hi Alloy Heat Treated Mark Williams Racing units ($700) custom length, Stock CV's (no aftermarket HP CV's available for the Fiero), technically the CV's are the fuse in the system.
The ZZ4 you are planning on using will turn the TH125 Trans to 'Toast' is very short order, don't go there!!! It doesn't make any sense to swap in that much horsepower if you're not going to put your foot into it. If you want to stay with an Automatic, investigate if you can make the 4T60 or 4T65 work in your application (you may want to discuss this with Archie), there's also a performance build 'JP' TH125 you should discuss with him (varied reports on this one). Since you plan on using Archies Kit, it would be greatly to your advantage to 'pick his brain' on what he feels would be a 'trick' setup. He's been exposed to a great number of applications and could offer some helpful suggestions, maybe even an application that hasn't been tried here yet.
Thanks for the compliment on my car!
Hope you and your son have a great time on your project!!!
Tom
[This message has been edited by California Kid (edited 01-18-2004).]
Tom, thanks for the reply. I printed it and hung it on the planning wall in my office (I am trying to figure out a way to be able to consider all the great ideas to be sent my way...so far it's a bunch of stuff taped to the wall... maybe I'll create a database of ideas.)
John (I'll have that TH125 with butter and jelly please...)
You're Welcome John! I should point out that if you stay with a Fiero Trans (auto or stick), you should put in Rodney Dickman's Halfshaft support needle bearing seal assemblies. They will help minimize twisting of the differential assembly, be sure that these parts are professionally installed either by yourself or someone else (they press in very hard and require proper application of sealer), if not done correctly you can deform/crack the case, or end up with a leak. The reason for adding the comment is that all Fiero Transmission have a good number of miles on them, the original bronze bushings do have wear and should be replaced, or the aftermarket part mentioned when doing an High Performance Conversion.
Winter Time Blues!!! Adding a few photos: Good Company at a local Cruise Night, the guy with the Cobra was a little freaked by the Shelby Signature on my car! Joined some members of the Corvette Forum on one of their local gatherings, had a great time with them! My Cousins '65 Alcohol Injected GTO and my car on display at the Woodward Cruise. Annual GTOTigers Show, I was invited by the Club to display my car as a Special Interest Entry.
Finally got my Poster mounted, added a few of the Trophy decorations for effect, getting settled into the new house. The Poster is nearly 4 feet wide, difficult to take a shot of it head on due to glass reflexion. Waterford Hills Race Track in Michigan 2003. 20th Anniversary Fiero Show @ Pontiac Michigan 2003
[This message has been edited by California Kid (edited 01-11-2004).]
The Poster Creation is credited to two talented individuals here on the Forum, this is the first Poster they attempted quite some time back, before offering their services to Forum Members. The 'Artwork' was created by Anthony Wilson known as 'Reality' on Pennocks, we swapped ideas, and photos via internet in the creation process: Once the Poster concept was finalized Anthony contacted 'MinnGreen' here on the Forum for Hi Quality Printing, believe his name is Rob. That accomplished, I took it a Picture Frame Store, picked 'Matting'/Frame style/Glass type, and had it mounted. Both of the Forum Members mentioned above do 'First Quality' Work that results in a piece of 'Artwork' that will last a lifetime, highly recommended to preserve your car and memories.
Thanks Cali Kid! Be sure to let us know what you think of the full metallic setup if and when you try it.
------------------ perk - todd's hot rods Shotgun - the ultimate toy toter Blade - the street-legal Fiero-based race car Rock-it - the Fiero that will soon be for sale
. It's a great starter, has been in since conversion in 1993 with never a problem. I shouldn't have said that!!! 
I bought my 85 from our insurance company for 700 as a front end write off. I was just wanting to know if you have the stock 88 susp or do you have custom made susp pices? tubular arms or something similar? Any alum parts hiding between those rims lol 
