Thanx guys for checking back in...As usual, I haven't worked on it in a while. Been sick the last few weeks and I really haven't felt like getting out in the garage.
I won't be doing much more on the dash until I put the video system in. That will happen sometime after the console. I'm also looking at putting in an Aurora 4.0, so time will be split between multiple projects. I also have an 86GT that needs some TLC before I let her go.
Still no updates. I've switched gears again, now I'm working on the engine...4.0 Aurora in 3800SC out. Don't ask why, I'm goofy that way. Once I get tired of that, I'll get back to the interior and dash.
bob
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12:20 PM
Jul 8th, 2007
1986GTV8 Member
Posts: 1259 From: Orlando,FL,USA Registered: Mar 2002
Well, I'm going to have to dig deep in the memory banks...Let's start with the picture of the rotary switch mounted and what I wrote:
quote
The switch is a double pole, 12 (or so) throw switch. Once dissassembled, the center posts can rotate all the way around. By using one pole, I get the six positions I need. By using the inards of the OEM switch, I still have the detent positions and the switch activation for the AC. Also, the original shaft fit nearly perfectly into the rotary switch, so I did not have to change anything. The shaft is held in by the OEM inards and cover, leaving everything near OEM. I need to come up with an 8 position connector and mate and I should be good to go.
This is going to be harder than I thought because that's the only pic I have...So, the existing control housing had several contacts embedded into the plastic. These contacts are used for the control of the AC circuit through the AC switch on the front panel. By using the rotary switch with the "OEM inards", I was able to wire my circuit from the attached schematic and keep the front AC switch working. At least theoretically, because since then, I've pulled the AC lines out to help fit the 4.0L. The AC is the only thing I haven't tested. As for the switch itself, well, I kind of cobbled it up as I went. It all seemed to fit together amazingly well. The only thing not finished with the HVAC is the fan select switch. I was going to use a variable speed controller modifying a trailer brake controller but I thought it might be too noicey. I found a selector switch at work that should work. It's used as a rotary fan select on heavy truck HVACs. I do not know if it is comercially available.
I hope that answers your question. If you have anything more specific, please let me know and I'll try to get you your answer.
Bob
PS...I just realized I've been working on this for 3 and a half years...One year and some days to get it on the road for the 25'th...
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08:56 PM
Nov 5th, 2007
Gravitic Anomaly Member
Posts: 137 From: Central MN, USA Registered: Jul 2007
Well, inspired by this thread I took the plunge this weekend and put a GA dash into my '85 notchy. I gotta say for not being made for this car the damn thing fits very well. I was very fortunate to find a 1999 GA at the local junkyard and got the complete dash and instrument cluster for $60. I did a few thing differently. I found if you remove the plastic panel that goes between the drivers side carpet and the tunnel ( the piece the stock cruise module mounts to) the console portion fits very nicely. I also discovered a 1.5" fender washer fits in the two mounting holes on the top of the dash and captures the plastic. I fashioned two brackets from alumium channel and mounted them to the car using the original dash mounting holes under the speaker covers. Then I ran bolts through the fender washers and brackets and finished with a nut on the underside. They hold the top down very firmly. I also glued some thin rubber to the brackets first so there wouldn't be any squeaks down the road. I hate squeaks. Got some steel brackets bent up for the bottom and sides to hold them firm and moved the steering column over about a 1/4". I cut a notch to clear the headlight dimmer switch into the original steering column bracket and moved back away from the dash. I drilled new holes in it and bolted it into position. Next I have to remove the dash and make all the wiring changes, and build a new airbox and ducting. I really love the looks. Thanks RCR for the write up.
- Tim
------------------ Gravitic Anomaly '85 SE 2m6 64K miles. *'86 GT 2m6 43K miles (RIP)*
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03:33 PM
Nov 6th, 2007
RCR Member
Posts: 4397 From: Shelby Twp Mi Registered: Sep 2002
Thanx Paul, I didn't consider Dakota Digital, but I did seriously look at other digital "analog" gauges, but when you work with a shoe string budget, aftermarket gauges quickly become a dream.
Bob
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05:40 PM
Apr 21st, 2008
War Hammer Member
Posts: 377 From: Myrtle Beach, SC USA Registered: Jan 2008
Well it took longer than I had hoped to get my car out of it's winter cocoon. I am just now posting the pictures I promised last fall of my dash install. To hold the top of the Grand Am dash I mounted a piece of angle stock to the firewall using the original mounting locations. The Tinnerman nuts were removed and 1/4" carraige bolts were placed in the oval slots from the back side. On top of the angle I have drilled a hole where the GA dash has a mounting hole. There is a plug that covers this hole in the dash. Ignore the wavy looking stuff on the angle stock. It is some self adhesive elastormeric tape I am using to prevent squeeks. I hate squeeks.
I bent up some brackets out of 1" x 1/8" flat stock to hold the dash at the bottom. Holes were drilled in the frame flange and the brackets were bolted into place.
I will use carraige bolts on the underside of the dash to attach it to these brackets.
I cut back the steering column mount to clear the GA dash and instrument cluster. My solution for mounting the column is to remove the original "U" shaped bracket piece that is bolted to the column. Drill two new bolt holes. Flip it around and bolt it to the column with two bolts. I had to cut into the bracket to clear the High beam switch. I will be using the ignition switch from the GA so I removed the Fiero's ignition switch from the column.
I shifted the whole column to the right to center the wheel in the dash. This was done by the placement of the two holes required to mount the bracket to the frame.
I preformed a ductectomy on the fiero's air duct piece. Fiberglass adapters were made and riveted to the cut off ducting piece. The fiberglass adapters are made to fit 3" diameter flex hose that will connect to the right and left dash vents. I used some 1" PVC pipe pieces to make a mount for the defroster tubes. Everything was then sealed up with RTV.
Next I will need to make up an adapter to go to the dash center vents.
------------------ Gravitic Anomaly '85 SE 2m6 64K miles. *'86 GT 2m6 43K miles (RIP)*
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07:12 PM
PFF
System Bot
May 27th, 2008
RCR Member
Posts: 4397 From: Shelby Twp Mi Registered: Sep 2002
Let's see what you did.
