Can you please tell me how did you bond the fiberglass to the stock rockers ? Did you use fiberglass and epoxy ? Do you have any pictures in process of when you did it ? Thanks for any help
PS the lower part of the front bumper in your car is from a 95 Honda Civic.
I recall I cut some of the lower part of the stock rocker, sanded the sides real rough and sandwiched a layer of fiberglass cloth with polyester resin between the stocker and m3 skirt... Although they hold up great I would do a one-piece by nowadays standards. I looked for the build pictures but 2003 and older are somewhere else on my hd drives..
Yo Roderick how are u doing man long time no see hahahahahhaa how is your ride . I think u are almost done.
me i was done with the engine but i blow the damm thing up ,i think it did not like me so im going to burn it
so im done building my garage and now i'm going to start a new project and do u know what i'm going to do swap a new engine in the damm car i got a adress that got the same engine u got L67 v6 3800 supercharged type 2 and it is a new one
but i still do not know what it will be,there are so many engine's out there what u think wat i need to do
burn the engine Or the car and start something else
best regards a fiero caveman that was sleeping over 2 years Daniel
So. After buying my 'new' house over 5 years ago it took 5 years so far to redo almost all of it, including the garage, when the garage got done it became "the place to store stuff you dont want elsewhere", then my girlfriend moved in with her stuff "you dont want elsewhere" but finally there's room and the Fiero was transported today to my 'drive-in' house. The lower floor is my mancave, my garage and my workshop. That's what I wanted in the first place
Transport, I removed the front and rear bumpers to make it easier:
Man I am happy it is finally here ! In a heated and clean garage. Overhead lighting, water and many 220V outlets. Spent most of the afternoon to start cleaning off the dust and debris of all the years sitting in storage. It is not that bad but it also has some small scratches on the paint here and there, I tried some rubbing compound to test and most of it can be fixed. It already looks 10 times better.
From now on I will try to update more frequently , also updates on some stuff I did do in the meantime...
Thanks Tony and Topcat ! I have been busy testfitting some parts and lowering the rear coilovers by 2 inches tonight, it is almost 4:00 am now here, I need to creep into the bedroom before miss Fie Ro wakes up asking what the hell I am doing
hints as to the true reason this project stopped lol
Lol, not really a problem (peaking behind the door ). She knew about my hobby but the house took a lot of energy and work last years but I have always been doing some Fiero stuff now and then. I just need to start posting again about the little progress I make here and there, after all this has become a 10 year+ project and there is no reason to rush now
When I got my Fiero here after more than 5 years of storage I got it cleaned up and looked over everything I did and what needs to be done. I am happy to find the stuff I cleaned/restored/painted is still in a great shape, still there is a lot of work to do, the first goal now is to make it technically running. Engine, cooling, brakes, battery, cluster...all of it will be custom but I want it running at a certain point. Working on all of that, most is research and fabbing now, again. I do have some progress on the interior too but I have come to the decision this is a car that needs to be able to move and not something to look at and keep dreaming
Things I am working on now: - wiring, freaking wiring of all this, wiring of the L67 to the ecm, tuning, getting rid of the old ecm wiring, tablet OBD2 dash taking all the data of the ecm OBD bus. - intake, cooling lines etc. With the engine still testfitted I want to set up everything to fit before final install. - setting up Intercooler tubing - setting up custom fusebox, wiring etc etc - more -
Things I still have to post: - redesigned front mount battery setup - brake vacuum via EGR port - front bumper 'correction' piece - doorpanels progress - trunkpanels progress - more -
I have been busy to trace all the wiring for this engine swap. I am not a wiring guy but all of this needs to work together. To me it is important to know what goes where and what it does and I have a clou if it doesnt work. I have labeled all the ecm side wires, the engine side connectors and wires ( I think I am still missing a cam and crankshaft and one knocksensor connector)
I am looking for a setup with this L67 engine custom wired to its ecm, deleting the Fiero ecm and cables, deleting wiring to the fiero gauges, taking info from the L67 OBD2 port to run gauges on a tablet replacing the cluster, and analog lights for turn,beams etc.
I have been thinking a lot of ways to do this effective/efficient and they have changed over the years, and this is where I am now. Tonight I started to remove the center console, pullled out the original ecm wiring, I welcome any good ideas what to do and why..
as far as wiring goes, how familiar are you with the L67? This place is obviously an amazing resource. At one point I think I had wiring diagrams for 98-00 and 02 layouts.
My advice is just to consume as much as you can, and get a good tuner. My understanding of how it works grew leaps and bounds when I actually start taking readings and start tweaking things.
Thanks ! But if I were a pro it wouldn't take 10+ years The fact I am doing so many things to this car means that 10% of error already makes it a pile of non running junk. I really try to do things right the first or second time. Most of it is second time
Thanks for the advice and you are right. For this swap I have been reading and collecting info for about 15 years, I guess I have all the needed diagrams and more. I bought a DHP Powrtuner from Charles at DHP about 10 years ago, since I had to wait 2 years for delivery he upgraded it to the unit with 3 analog inputs, may come in handy to log the wideband O2 sensor I plan to get. I noticed the DHP forum and support are gone now but I found a torrent last night that contains the most recent software, additional scanners and bins. I will dive into the whole scanning and tuning proces when I have finished up all the wiring. I know now where all the L67 stuff goes but the next step is to put it together and what to keep of the Fiero wiring.
In the meantime I think it might be a good idea to start looking for a PT basemap that is close enough to my setup. It seems every L67 engine responds a bit different to mods and setup, even more when in a Fiero. So I understand there will be a lot of scanning and tuning required but it would be nice to have a startingpoint...
For a PT basemap these are the specs of my engine / setup and some ?? :
Gen 3 Supercharger: inlet machined to match N* intake 77mm Outlet machined for ZZP S2 intercooler MPS pully 3.0 (+ 2.8 and 2.6)
ZZP S2 full stack intercooler
Lower intake: machined to match IC outlet ports gasket matched to heads
Heads: stock but gasket matched intake and exhaust Injectors: 36lbs (stock) may need to step up to 42,5 with these mods ? (PRJ fuelrails, stock FP regulator, Walbro 255lph fuelpump) Stock cam (Arp headbolts and rocker studs)
Front exhaust manifold: ZZP powerlog Rear exhaust manifold: stock Exhaust, will be: 3" to cat, muffler 2x 2,25" delete second O2 sensor delete EGR delete Evap delete boost solenoid delete more sh!t
Fiero fan control via the L67 ecm
Getrag 5 speed VSS to L67ecm. Need correct speed vss to ecm>OBD2>cluster (NOT the original Fiero cluster! I know about Ryans conversion interface but I will take OBD2 from the ecm) option 1: custom converter fieropulses (rate/dig) to L67ecm (different rate/ana) option 2: forget OBD2>cluster part, use GPS of tablet for actual speed
I may edit this if something comes up I didn't think about... which is most likely the case
maybe I should say I envy your perfectionism then lol
Originally posted by Fie Ro: Injectors: 36lbs (stock) may need to step up to 42,5 with these mods ?
I think you can get away with stock injectors up to a 3.0" pulley and no cam/rockers Knock may be your limiting factor. W/o scanning it's impossible to speculate but I had a very similar setup at one point and stock injectors were just fine.
Swapping injectors is very easy, so IMO spare the expense until you scan it and know for sure. Of course.. I'm kind of cheap so it's easy for me to say that.
Here's a quote from Ryan at sinister performance about knowing when you need bigger injectors.
To tell that, you need to know Injector Pulse Widths at WOT and A/F ratio. As long as your IPW's aren't exceeding 21ms and your O2 voltage is above 0.915v at WOT (or 12:1~12.5:1 a/f ratio or richer); the injectors you have in your engine now should be meeting your needs.
I pulled out the instrument cluster and did a test setup with a cheap 10" tablet we have here at home to get an indication what needs to be done to make something like this to work :
A simple check to be sure if the screen is visuable in this location from my eyesight:
My idea is to cut off the outer switch panels and move them inside the housing for a more compact and sleeker look. Also because a 10" screen does not need the width of the original instrumentpanel.
I wondered why the left and right switchpanels sizes were off....it is because the cluster is not rectangle at all ! The instrument panel seems to flow with the main dash, the top a bit higher towards the middle of the interior, the cluster seems symmetrical but it is not! In fact non of the instrument cluster parts are symmetrical. You would not see that unless you take a ruler to check.
Making the cut for a tablet for recess, there is about 1 3/4 inch before hitting the steering column. I need that space for the tablet not sticking out too high at the top.
It's a cool idea but I feel like there is a difference between a generic tablet and the screens that are meant for use as instrument panels in cars... the brightness of a generic tablet will likely affect your night vision while driving in the dark...
The glass from the iPad may cause some glare issues. You can purchase the screens (with controllers) relatively cheaply on eBay. That can be hooked up to a small profile computer (mini ITX / pico ITX, etc). Might be better using a non-glare plastic cover instead of the glass.