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Madcurl's Arch Rival !! by exoticse
Started on: 04-07-2005 02:39 AM
Replies: 3142 (251451 views)
Last post by: exoticse on 12-03-2016 10:12 PM
madcurl
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Report this Post09-15-2009 07:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for madcurlClick Here to Email madcurlSend a Private Message to madcurlEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Don Kraus:

That's looking real pretty,keep up the good work.

Don



Thanks Don.

Beautification continued; I cleaned the engine bay and it's looking nice. Today, I ordered Spectra polished intake system today and it should arrive some time this week.













hex bolts

[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 09-15-2009).]

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madcurl
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Report this Post09-16-2009 05:07 PM Click Here to See the Profile for madcurlClick Here to Email madcurlSend a Private Message to madcurlEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

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Report this Post09-17-2009 04:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ClayTontoClick Here to Email ClayTontoSend a Private Message to ClayTontoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

The engine bay is looking beautiful. The chrome through the window will look great.

------------------
87 GT Tilt Clip-Widebody-RamAir-Fastback-GlassHatch Powered by SBC 383 6-speed w/ NOS
Build Thread

"Roads?...Where we're going, we don't need roads." - Emmett "Doc" Brown

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madcurl
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Report this Post09-18-2009 01:19 AM Click Here to See the Profile for madcurlClick Here to Email madcurlSend a Private Message to madcurlEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by ClayTonto:

The engine bay is looking beautiful. The chrome through the window will look great.



Thanks. We're getting there. More chrome parts from Summit arrived today.

What can Brown do for you? I got the part # from V8Archie. Thanks Archie.





I'm ordering plastic chrome sleeves for the throttle body cable and fuel lines. The rest will be custom items that will cover the drive belts, partly intake system, the fire wall, and trunk. Although, the project is moving slowly--- eventually the engine compartment be will (I hope) completed prior to paint.

[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 09-18-2009).]

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madcurl
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Report this Post09-18-2009 04:06 AM Click Here to See the Profile for madcurlClick Here to Email madcurlSend a Private Message to madcurlEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Well, as Archie informed me; I might need additional bends. Oh well, no biggie--- I'll order another 45 and maybe a 22 degree. I snaked the tubing and it's running too close to the actuator so I'll need to shave some of the sleeve for clearance. I tired the same parts on #015 and the parts all fit, but with #022 having the actuators I need to tweak the parts.

(tubing are taped to prevent scratching).






Enough trial fitments--- it's getting late. Work will continue noon time.

[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 09-18-2009).]

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katatak
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Report this Post09-18-2009 11:52 AM Click Here to See the Profile for katatakSend a Private Message to katatakEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Looking good! I love all that chrome. I need a favor. Can you give me some details on the actuators you used for the front and rear? I know I read about them somewhere in the past but I'm too lazy to go search for it. I want to install some actuators for the hood of the XTC and just do not know where to start. TIA

Pat

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Report this Post09-18-2009 02:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for madcurlClick Here to Email madcurlSend a Private Message to madcurlEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by katatak:

Looking good! I love all that chrome. I need a favor. Can you give me some details on the actuators you used for the front and rear? I know I read about them somewhere in the past but I'm too lazy to go search for it. I want to install some actuators for the hood of the XTC and just do not know where to start. TIA

Pat


Thanks. The original idea came for a good guy named David who owns the Pantera replica. His is mounted in a different location. V8Archie tweaked the location for better operations. The ones I purchased (front and rear) are from Dakata Digital (D.D.). The Pantera uses a different company. I went with D.D. because it's American made and I have used other items made by them such as the gauges. I'll try to support America .... first. Watson's Street too uses the same type of actuator and is has a higher rating, but it didn't contain the rocker mounting points I wanted. Watson too is American made.

Here are the various videos and links.
 
quote
Originally posted by PaulJK:

are those dakota digital 24 inch 150 lb Actuators ?


No. 12" @ 110Ib
http://www.dakotadigital.co.../mode=prod/prd58.htm



edit:correction
Watson's Street Works has the 10" @ 250Ib
http://www.watsons-streetwo...com/power_stuff.html

 
quote
Originally posted by madcurl:

Thanks David;









I got some real good ideas from the Pantera builder @ the 25th and I now want to add dual actuator on the rear hatch.

[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 09-18-2009).]

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madcurl
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Report this Post09-18-2009 02:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for madcurlClick Here to Email madcurlSend a Private Message to madcurlEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Trial testing; continued. 4" polished tubing. The N* throttle body is 3.5" in diameter and they don't sell 3.5" tubing, so I upped the size to 4"



[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 09-18-2009).]

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madcurl
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Report this Post09-18-2009 06:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for madcurlClick Here to Email madcurlSend a Private Message to madcurlEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I decided to reduce one end of the tubing for a better fit.

Part in question:


I headed over to WCF for tweaking, hehe.







back on track; with 3/4" removed I now have better clearance. I'll still need to purchase a 45 degree.




[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 03-21-2010).]

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GTCONVERSION
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Report this Post09-19-2009 11:01 AM Click Here to See the Profile for GTCONVERSIONClick Here to Email GTCONVERSIONSend a Private Message to GTCONVERSIONEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

You can run a intube filter inside the 4 inch tube it makes it easy to get to the filter when cleaning them.they look like a cone made by spec to fit inside there tubes.Just something you may want to do looks like its getting tight in there

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madcurl
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Report this Post09-20-2009 01:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for madcurlClick Here to Email madcurlSend a Private Message to madcurlEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by GTCONVERSION:

You can run a intube filter inside the 4 inch tube it makes it easy to get to the filter when cleaning them.they look like a cone made by spec to fit inside there tubes.Just something you may want to do looks like its getting tight in there


Thanks for the heads-up. I wasn't aware they even make that type of intake filters, but for now; since I've already purchased the K&N--- I use that filter. I will no doubt need to remove the rear tire and wheel well lining to get access to the filter.

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Report this Post09-22-2009 09:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for madcurlClick Here to Email madcurlSend a Private Message to madcurlEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I ordered Spectra polished intake system tubing.



The 45s now snakes their way into the body. I'll have to cut a small portion for better placement, but allowing for OEM equipment replacement (for smog here in CA).



Beautification continued; I cleaned the engine bay and it's looking nice. .






Chrome plastic Tubing for electronic cruise control

[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 09-27-2009).]

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Report this Post09-24-2009 04:38 PM Click Here to See the Profile for madcurlClick Here to Email madcurlSend a Private Message to madcurlEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I dropped off a few 8-foot aluminum rails at WCF for tweaking. Chris is making a templet (three total) for the engine compartment. A 59" rail widthwise and two rails starting from the corner of the window leading back to the trunk. Once cut-- templets will be patterned in and around the engine and then sent to the chrome shop. These parts will cover over the exposed areas and beautify the engine compartment so it isn't necessary to chrome every detail-- just the important parts. It should be half-ways finished by next week.

Aluminum rails to be ran along the border of the upper side frame.


The area below the window and engine with have chrome cover (east to west) to hide the wires and such)

[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 09-24-2009).]

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Report this Post09-25-2009 06:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for madcurlClick Here to Email madcurlSend a Private Message to madcurlEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

D1S very, very tight fitting Corvette rotors and hubs.


Stock hub (5x100)



Stock hub tweaked, milled and CNC machined (remember we're using the same hub with the same 5x100 bolt pattern).


Side by side comparison


D1S hub turned around to reveal the bolts or backside ( good if you break off a stud... you can purchase a "stud" at your local Auto store)


Please pay close attention to this picture. The "tolorentces" are 0% using D1S. Other words, you can't get a hair between the rotor and the 5-studs. Thus the stock bore size is intact allowing for wheels that are made specially for the Fiero to be used. Granted, for those using universal rims; a need hub centric rings is needed, but if the wheels are custom--- then the wheels will sit tightly on the hub :finger pic.




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Report this Post10-01-2009 01:55 AM Click Here to See the Profile for madcurlClick Here to Email madcurlSend a Private Message to madcurlEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

WCF beautification: continued.

After getting the intake and other parts polished/chromed/painted I decided to pipe dream an idea for #020's engine bay. In my mind, I think it will work and Chris thinks so too (oh yeah, please excuse the crude mock ups).

First off some measurements: 12 degree.




Now onto to cardboard;


Onto the frame. This isn't the end result but it will be re-modified and shaped.


Left/middle/right sections;


Left section:


Left section joined with strut tower cover;


Side tracked: work car nearly killed me. Yes. That's the upper control arm;


Mistsubishi cheap control arms;

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madcurl
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Report this Post10-01-2009 02:01 AM Click Here to See the Profile for madcurlClick Here to Email madcurlSend a Private Message to madcurlEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post


moving right along. I finally decided to widen one of my 3-piece rims. I want to add 1.5" to the outer lip for the rears.
http://www.weldcraftwheels.com/








I'm sending one of the rims out for testing.

[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 10-01-2009).]

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whodeanie
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Report this Post10-02-2009 11:54 AM Click Here to See the Profile for whodeanieClick Here to visit whodeanie's HomePageClick Here to Email whodeanieSend a Private Message to whodeanieEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by madcurl:

Side tracked: work car nearly killed me. Yes. That's the upper control arm;


Mistsubishi cheap control arms;



Oh, Crap!
I am glad you are OK,
looks like a piss poor design to me.

on another note the project is looking great
D.

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madcurl
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Report this Post10-02-2009 07:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for madcurlClick Here to Email madcurlSend a Private Message to madcurlEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by whodeanie:
Oh, Crap!
I am glad you are OK,
looks like a piss poor design to me.

on another note the project is looking great
D.


Thanks. I called Mitsubishi motors regarding the control arm and they where no recalls. I dug a bit more on the internet and found a few defects in some of their models including the Eclipse Spider regarding the ball joint failure (mine was the control arm). Instead of arguing with the dealership, I got a replacement control arm on a wrecked Eclipse for $46 bucks and with no structural compromises. If the dealer had anything to do with it--- it would’ve cost me upwards of $500 bucks, car rental, and one major headache.

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Report this Post10-06-2009 10:10 AM Click Here to See the Profile for DracorSend a Private Message to DracorEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by madcurl:


Thanks. I called Mitsubishi motors regarding the control arm and they where no recalls. I dug a bit more on the internet and found a few defects in some of their models including the Eclipse Spider regarding the ball joint failure (mine was the control arm). Instead of arguing with the dealership, I got a replacement control arm on a wrecked Eclipse for $46 bucks and with no structural compromises. If the dealer had anything to do with it--- it would’ve cost me upwards of $500 bucks, car rental, and one major headache.


Scary stuff. I had a ball joint pop on my first fiero, was only going about 30mph though.

I don't think I have posted in this thread yet, but Nice Car! I have been following the thread for a while now. I like to see your progress and custom items. It helps me to want to work on mine, though mine will never look as good as yours.

------------------
'84 3800SC, XP cam, 3.2 pully, HPTuners, N* TB, 4sp, SPEC 3+ clutch, Aluminium flywheel, pacesetter headers, F355 body kit, weight reduction

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madcurl
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Report this Post10-07-2009 10:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for madcurlClick Here to Email madcurlSend a Private Message to madcurlEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Dracor:

I don't think I have posted in this thread yet, but Nice Car! I have been following the thread for a while now. I like to see your progress and custom items. It helps me to want to work on mine, though mine will never look as good as yours.





Thanks. I had a lot of help from plenty of people here.

Today, I got a chance to revisit #020 today and to see how the strut caps have come along and I must say I was impressed. I have the initial frame made by WCF and it will take a bit more tweaking, but all should be good for the second phase.

Mock-up Fiero at the WCF yard.



Pull back pic;


First test fit on #020. As you can see the caps aren't sitting flush so I needed to have some of the aluminum removed, but the over-all design is good.


The goal is too have the chrome lead it's way back towards the body (without actually touching the fiberglass) This are will be painted..



The passenger side: same situation;


[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 10-07-2009).]

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Falcon Fiero
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Report this Post10-07-2009 11:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Falcon FieroClick Here to Email Falcon FieroSend a Private Message to Falcon FieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Mass produce those...I bet you could sell a bunch of them. That area of the Fiero always bothered me when I was showing my car.

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madcurl
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Report this Post10-07-2009 11:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for madcurlClick Here to Email madcurlSend a Private Message to madcurlEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

On the second round, part of the material was removed and fitted a bit better, but I'll need to remove some more.


Once the welds are grounded down and later the strut cap chromed, the compartment then come alive. I'll need to remove the OEM strut clamps and will use the strut caps instead.



In order for the strut caps to fit I'll need to have a few cut-outs near and around to return tank

[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 03-21-2010).]

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Report this Post10-08-2009 08:49 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ClayTontoClick Here to Email ClayTontoSend a Private Message to ClayTontoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

You west coast guys are very creative when it comes to complying with CA regulations. If I drove my car there, they would probably turn me back at the port of entry.
If I took it for a CA inspection, the guy would probably be like, "WTF? Where's your...?....get out of my shop!" and then he would call the EPA to report me. LOL


Curly, I like the strut tower covers.

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Report this Post10-08-2009 11:10 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Bradley JayClick Here to Email Bradley JaySend a Private Message to Bradley JayEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Falcon Fiero:

Mass produce those...I bet you could sell a bunch of them. That area of the Fiero always bothered me when I was showing my car.


It probably wouldn't work on any other car besides Curly's / any car with a glass hatch. We still have our little decklid grills that would get in the way of making that possible.

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Report this Post10-08-2009 11:25 PM Click Here to See the Profile for madcurlClick Here to Email madcurlSend a Private Message to madcurlEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Bradley Jay:


It probably wouldn't work on any other car besides Curly's / any car with a glass hatch. We still have our little decklid grills that would get in the way of making that possible.


Actually, the idea was found here several years ago. Somebody produced a similar product that only covered the strut tower (that's all you need) and it too was chromed, but I think the originals were made of steel and not aluminum. I mentioned the idea to Chris.

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Report this Post10-08-2009 11:34 PM Click Here to See the Profile for madcurlClick Here to Email madcurlSend a Private Message to madcurlEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by ClayTonto:

You west coast guys are very creative when it comes to complying with CA regulations. If I drove my car there, they would probably turn me back at the port of entry.
If I took it for a CA inspection, the guy would probably be like, "WTF? Where's your...?....get out of my shop!" and then he would call the EPA to report me. LOL


Curly, I like the strut tower covers.

[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 03-23-2010).]

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Rickady88GT
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Report this Post10-09-2009 11:38 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Rickady88GTClick Here to Email Rickady88GTSend a Private Message to Rickady88GTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by madcurl:

Today, I rode in a 5.3 V8 automatic at WCF. The next motor I'll get will be this one and installed by Chris West.






Snap that neck!


On Thursday, the owner is headed to the Referee for CA strict engine swap testings.



Cool. So what is it about the LS4 that sold you on it? Over all, how does it compare to the North Star?

I love mine, just wish it was a manual







I have not re-flashed the PCM yet, so I have some "launch control" issues. It will chirp the tires and even get a little sideways in corners but if I stomp the gas it will electronically shut down for a second or two as a default tranny saver.

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Report this Post10-10-2009 05:46 PM Click Here to See the Profile for madcurlClick Here to Email madcurlSend a Private Message to madcurlEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Rickady88GT:


Cool. So what is it about the LS4 that sold you on it? Over all, how does it compare to the North Star? I have not re-flashed the PCM yet, so I have some "launch control" issues. It will chirp the tires and even get a little sideways in corners but if I stomp the gas it will electronically shut down for a second or two as a default tranny saver.


What sold me on the 5.3? It works and if the 5.3 pass CA emission- no need for another N* when I can walk across the street and have a 5.3 V8 installed. As for the sound- it's about the same as a N*, but a bit quieter with the 5.3 being a bit more power IMO. The only down side is; It doesn't look as pretty as the N* and no cruise control, but the extra ponies and drive-by wire goodies might make up "in the looks department."

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Report this Post10-13-2009 12:46 AM Click Here to See the Profile for madcurlClick Here to Email madcurlSend a Private Message to madcurlEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Are we there yet? Working non-stop at work, so little or no time for #020, but to today I'm back on course. More tweaking needed, but the strut caps are almost there. I had WCF cut away part of the outer lip leading towards the windshield.



A few cuts here' n there will do the trick.


Some shaving of material on the outer side should do the trick.




The strut cap is crooked in this pic due to the material that needs to be removed from the outer side of rail;


Hopefully, on Tuesday one more cut and then we can proceed with attachments

[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 10-13-2009).]

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Report this Post10-13-2009 02:11 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Rickady88GTClick Here to Email Rickady88GTSend a Private Message to Rickady88GTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by madcurl:


The only down side is; It doesn't look as pretty as the N* and no cruise control, but the extra ponies and drive-by wire goodies might make up "in the looks department."


If you install the correct parts, your cruise control will work fine. But does make the swap a little more difficult.

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Report this Post10-14-2009 01:44 AM Click Here to See the Profile for madcurlClick Here to Email madcurlSend a Private Message to madcurlEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Cutting continued;a notch was removed for the attachment on the radiator return tank


Also, additional material for C-pillar; #020 C-pillar are moved inward.


You can see why the angle cut was needed. This is where the C-pillar moves inward on #020



Mock-up Fiero at WCF bone yard; Caps now drop right in place, but in to have a section cut out on one side.

[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 10-14-2009).]

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Report this Post10-14-2009 09:58 PM Click Here to See the Profile for madcurlClick Here to Email madcurlSend a Private Message to madcurlEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

WCF beautifications: continued.

Moving onto the center section; WFC cut the ends off for L-corners


L-corners spot welded for testing on #020


The Passenger side is about 99% finished with a few more finite cuts.


Pretty much a snug fit on the passenger side,


Since the strut caps are designed to fit a few inches above the rails--- there was not need to remove the rear clip connection. Oh well, it's aluminum and can be fixed.




The inner pieces will be attached with hex screw with welded nuts on the backside. This way each strut cap can easily fit with having to unbolt the actuators


step 1:

step 2:

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Mr_jacob7
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Report this Post10-15-2009 07:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Mr_jacob7Send a Private Message to Mr_jacob7Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I'll tell ya' what...

of course it's a mean son-of-a-gun, as far as power...

that n* is definately a work of art, too...

------------------
"Be not led astray, bretheren beloved..." -James 1:16.
_________________________

Orange 1984 Fiero; McLaren 3.1 Turbo.

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madcurl
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Report this Post10-15-2009 11:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for madcurlClick Here to Email madcurlSend a Private Message to madcurlEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Beautification continued;

A near completed 3-piece engine beautification.





Once a few additional cuts are made- the spacing will decrease.


The driver's side and center piece now coming together.




Due to the right side not attache- the center piece isn't leveled, but you get the idea where I'm headed.


The passenger side needs more tweaking.




Picked up a extra upper A-arm for the work car--- just in case.

[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 10-16-2009).]

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madcurl
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Report this Post10-16-2009 10:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for madcurlClick Here to Email madcurlSend a Private Message to madcurlEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Beautification Continued: Moving onto the center valance.

As you can see- the project is moving forward by tiny steps, but the center valance which hides the electrical wires (the center valence piece isn't screwed down, but resting on the thread).




As you can visualize from this pic, the lower valance covers over the electrical connections with enough engine clearance. The valance was 1.5" which 2" would've been too close.




The valance was angled back towards the fire wall. Once the polisher removes the welds and rounds off the corners... the part will start to take shape.






Strut tower cap;


Master Aluminum Welder for 30 years. He can weld perfect shape nickels all day long.

[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 10-17-2009).]

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madcurl
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Report this Post10-17-2009 02:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for madcurlClick Here to Email madcurlSend a Private Message to madcurlEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

"A creative mind is a terrible thing to waste"- therefore lets move onto the "fun" stuff like the inserts. Instead of using a flat surface to cover over the flow tank and other not so nice looking areas, a few ideas appeared to me while I was at WCF.







------------------



"A creative mind is a terrible thing to waste."

[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 10-17-2009).]

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Jake_Dragon
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Report this Post10-17-2009 06:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Jake_DragonSend a Private Message to Jake_DragonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post



LOL j/k looks good, are you going to powder coat it or polish?

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madcurl
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Report this Post10-17-2009 07:05 PM Click Here to See the Profile for madcurlClick Here to Email madcurlSend a Private Message to madcurlEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Jake_Dragon:


Are you going to powder coat it or polish?


100% Chrome.

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madcurl
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Report this Post10-18-2009 09:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for madcurlClick Here to Email madcurlSend a Private Message to madcurlEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

You know the old saying, "One mans trash is another mans..." Well, at WCF is saw something unique to use inside the engine compartment- the intakes from a 3400.

At a 45 degree angle the 3400 vents will aid the flow of trapped air, use the area for attachment, and stylize the end corners.


On the drivers side I'll need to snake a peice of aluminum around the intake tube down into the engine bay.

[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 10-18-2009).]

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madcurl
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Report this Post10-21-2009 05:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for madcurlClick Here to Email madcurlSend a Private Message to madcurlEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Beautification continued: Phase II

Since the outer shell is made- now it's time to focus on the inserts. I made a templet for the passenger side and dropped it off at WCF for cutting.







Not much time to work on #020, but I hope to finish the engine compartment next week. I'm in no rush.





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