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3.4L pushrod Swap (lots of pics) by sardonyx247
Started on: 05-23-2004 02:00 PM
Replies: 615 (97388 views)
Last post by: lyleap-gmc on 11-24-2016 07:12 PM
sardonyx247
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Report this Post02-06-2016 03:13 AM Click Here to See the Profile for sardonyx247Click Here to visit sardonyx247's HomePageClick Here to Email sardonyx247Send a Private Message to sardonyx247Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Time to do another 3.4 swap, I haven't updated this thread for a bit, so I figured I would put of some pics of my current 3.4 swap.

It will be going in this pretty 85 GT (BTW this Fiero will be for sale once the swap is done)



A 90k 3.4 from this Camaro my friend Cris and I pulled it one Saturday, that was a fun day. Only took us a couple of hours.









While we were there I grabbed some 1.6 rockers. I love more HP.



And the 3.4 injectors.



I cleaned and flow tested the injectors, until they were a matched set and flowed even with a good pattern, My injector test setup, in the coffee can is a fuel pump, I have a switch for the injectors and used a scale to measure the flow.




The block before disassembly. This one looks GREAT.





Always marks the rods and caps before you take them out. Example, this was no 6.



And all the pistons out to be cleaned up and looked over.

They look AWESOME.


Here you can see the cam bearings had some wear, not too bad but some. You can see the copper under metal of the bearings.



So new cam bearings it got, how to change them is in this post. http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/137103.html



Plus all new freeze plugs.





And new main bearings.



To plug the oil sensor from the 3.4 I used this plug as posted earlier in this thread.


[This message has been edited by sardonyx247 (edited 02-17-2016).]

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sardonyx247
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Report this Post02-08-2016 03:46 AM Click Here to See the Profile for sardonyx247Click Here to visit sardonyx247's HomePageClick Here to Email sardonyx247Send a Private Message to sardonyx247Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

This build is going slowish, so many Fieros to fix, so little time. And I am taking my time to make sure everything is right.
But lets continue.

Always mic the cam to make sure no lobes are worn.



And now some more pics on what's needs to be done on the 3.4 conversion.

Transfer the timing marks to the 3.4 balancer. Always line up this way and not face to face, line up the key ways and transfer the big grove. With a hacksaw or die grinder etc....






I like to paint mine as it adds a bit of detail and makes it real easy to see.





Now the A/C bracket, since the 3.4 block is missing one of the mounting points you simply tap out the strut mount and drill the bracket, I find a SBC flywheel bolt fits perfect, (and we have alot laying around) If you have an 88 just get the strut mount and a pre 88 A/C bracket.









If you use the 3.4 oil pan it needs to be dented in the corner, or the mount ground down, but when I took out my mounts and saw how twisted they become I don't want to weaken the mount in any way so I choose to dent the pan. Or just use the Fiero pan.



Now if it is going in an Auto it needs part of the block ground down, (not needed on a manual swap) I get a square and match the 2.8 block. Also drill out the hole with a 1/2 drill, needed both auto and man, as the Fiero uses a bolt going in from the other side.





And the oil filter plug/mount has to be moved from the 2.8 to the 3.4 using an allen socket.


To this empty hole on the 3.4



Drilling the starter into this side of the block, (more pics posted earlier in this thread of how to)
This is the part of the block that has to be drilled.


I use an old starter, or even a new one doesn't matter, but I take off the solenoid to be able to engage the teeth.


I hold it in place, as tight as I can as too far and the block is screwed, too close and it can be simply shimmed out.


I mark the end of the bolt with a paint marker and use that to mark the hole.





Drill the hole and a long 1/4 extension works well the tap the hole.



Put your first bolt in to hold the starter in place and drill you second hole.



After that you can bolt up the starter and use jumper cables and a battery to make sure it spins right and then shim as necessary.

I have lost count on how many of these swaps I have done but it is well over 30.
I don't take pics of them all, but decided to add a bunch this time as the thread hasn't been updated in a while

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03Showbike
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Report this Post02-10-2016 12:07 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 03ShowbikeClick Here to Email 03ShowbikeSend a Private Message to 03ShowbikeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

sardonyx247 knows what hes doing. He does awesome work on fieros!! Listen, watch and learn!

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sardonyx247
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The block painted.
I use old 3.4 valve covers, oil filter, spark plugs etc to paint.



The 1.6 rockers, This should be good for another 11 HP, just by math alone. The 3.4 Camaro guys claim 15HP on roller tipped ones, so minus the roller part, should be 11 HP at the wheels.
A trick I figured out, if you tape up the intake when installing the lifters, it is easier to remove the tape than to clean off all the oil from the intake.



Where it says "do not cut" DO NOT CUT IT, if you forget and put in the pushrods, then do it over, not hard to readjust the valves.



Now the pushrods are in and the valves adjusted.
Remember zero lash then 1 and 1/2 turns.



The porting/gasket matching on the lower intake.




With the intake on.



Do I take too many pics?
Even if I do, more to come.

[This message has been edited by sardonyx247 (edited 02-17-2016).]

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sardonyx247
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Report this Post02-10-2016 02:50 AM Click Here to See the Profile for sardonyx247Click Here to visit sardonyx247's HomePageClick Here to Email sardonyx247Send a Private Message to sardonyx247Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by 03Showbike:

sardonyx247 knows what hes doing. He does awesome work on fieros!! Listen, watch and learn!


Thanks

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sardonyx247
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Report this Post02-17-2016 03:37 AM Click Here to See the Profile for sardonyx247Click Here to visit sardonyx247's HomePageClick Here to Email sardonyx247Send a Private Message to sardonyx247Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

The bottom of the middle intake, gasket matched porting.



The oil sender adapter, 5/16" to 1/4"



It replaces this plug on the 3.4





Now to plug the cam sensor hole, I got a 3/4in freeze plug, a tiny bit small,



But here is a simple solution, get a lug nut place it on the freeze plug and smack it with a hammer, it widens it out perfectly.



With a little RTV around the sides, installed, fits great.



The old knocking 2.8L out.



And the home for the new 3.4L.



Exhaust manifolds ported out, good for 8 HP.



The gaskets are from a 62' bug, fit perfect and look better. (With part number)



Always add Anti-seize to exhaust bolts in case you ever have to remove them later, they won't rust in.



And the exhaust manifolds on





The plastic vac lines were broke up a bit, so I made up some metal ones, they will last forever and not crack.



Installed

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03Showbike
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Report this Post02-17-2016 05:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 03ShowbikeClick Here to Email 03ShowbikeSend a Private Message to 03ShowbikeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Looking really good. You do awesome work!! You truly are the Zen Master of Pontiac Fieros!!

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sardonyx247
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Report this Post03-08-2016 12:36 AM Click Here to See the Profile for sardonyx247Click Here to visit sardonyx247's HomePageClick Here to Email sardonyx247Send a Private Message to sardonyx247Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Slow update on pics and only have a few.

Here is a good way to get out the pilot bushing out of the crank, as Camaro-Firebirds use them and Fieros don't
Tap it for a big bolt, and use a slide hammer or pry bar on the bolt.
(This one got crooked after the slide hammer and it wasn't in far, but didn't matter as it came out with no harm to the crank.)




And the engine and trans matted.






And as always, a great pic

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ron768
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Report this Post03-20-2016 09:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ron768Click Here to Email ron768Send a Private Message to ron768Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Looks like I will be working on a 3.4 for my car (85 SE 2M6) . Yesterday, she developed a knock at 197K miles. Mine will take some time as the 3.4 I found will need a complete rebuild. ( high miles) Thank you for posting all the info and pics. Other than the engine rebuild, mine should be about the same.

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sardonyx247
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Report this Post08-15-2016 03:11 AM Click Here to See the Profile for sardonyx247Click Here to visit sardonyx247's HomePageClick Here to Email sardonyx247Send a Private Message to sardonyx247Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Time for another 3.4 Swap

Here is the current one I am working on.
Very pretty car with very low miles.







The engine. The old 2.8





And out of the Fiero.





------------------
"DRIVE IT LIKE A FIERO"
'84 Fiero, engine to be determined '87 Duke (Sold)
'87 Quad 4 H.O.
'87Blue GT 3.4L Swap Completed!!!!!!!! Boosted!!!!!!!
^^^^ Now in the Construction Zone^^^^
Las Vegas Fiero Club Parts/Sales/Service/Club
Fiero Road Club Of Northern Nevada
Now on my 11th Fiero

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vitog44
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Report this Post08-15-2016 12:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for vitog44Send a Private Message to vitog44Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Dave, I’m glad that I got hold of you when I moved from NY to Vegas. I want to thank you for helping me out with Fiero issues through the past two years. Your mechanical abilities and Fiero expertise is to be admired. I enjoy our conversations at the Fiero Yard and appreciate the opportunity to spruce up the engine cradle and parts before they go back in for the swap. I look forward to a faster car. Keep up the good work.

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Report this Post08-15-2016 07:56 PM Click Here to See the Profile for vitog44Send a Private Message to vitog44Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Took some pics of the car apart and some of the new parts in boxes waiting for the transplant (conversion).

I spruced up the cradle and exhaust with high heat paint, cleaned up the parts that will be going with the new engine, enjoyed watching the fighter jets flying low overhead and had a great conversation with Dave... A great day at the Fiero Shop!

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sardonyx247
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Poly cradle bushings installed.



The block back from the machine shop.





New pistons waiting to go in, this one was bored .20 over.



Pistons in and where it sits tonight.



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vitog44
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Report this Post08-20-2016 08:56 PM Click Here to See the Profile for vitog44Send a Private Message to vitog44Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Another glorious afternoon at the Fiero Club. Had a chance to have a chat with Dave and clean the replacement tranny. The one in the car had low mileage but was making noise and a bad TCC. Dave found me another.
Before cleaning
and after.

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Report this Post08-23-2016 01:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for lou_diasClick Here to Email lou_diasSend a Private Message to lou_diasEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Great thread. You should do one with a 3400 block and Camaro pistons so that people don't think it's voodoo. Since those GEN2 1.6 rockers work on iron heads, that makes that conversion about $250 cheaper than before...

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Report this Post11-24-2016 07:12 PM Click Here to See the Profile for lyleap-gmcClick Here to Email lyleap-gmcSend a Private Message to lyleap-gmcEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

[QUOTE]Originally posted by sardonyx247:

Slow update on pics and only have a few.

Here is a good way to get out the pilot bushing out of the crank, as Camaro-Firebirds use them and Fieros don't
Tap it for a big bolt, and use a slide hammer or pry bar on the bolt.
(This one got crooked after the slide hammer and it wasn't in far, but didn't matter as it came out with no harm to the crank.)




Another easy way to remove the pilot bushing is to pack grease in the cavity behind the bushing. Using a rod that is a fairly close fit in the pushing drive it in, Hydraulics will push the bushing out.

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