Thanks for the offer Russ! I don't know when I could work that out but I will keep it in mind. My wife lives in CO, and I am in AZ.
I did some more sanding tonight. Enough to wear some skin raw on my pinky finger...
First two pics are of the general area worked on. The speckled stuff is where the media blast dug deeper in than the black primer. I am hoping a primer or filler will take care of those. The third pic is of a couple of cracks in the corner of the upper rear body. I was given some Evercoat SMC Panel Adhesive 3 #994 to fix it and other cracks on the top body pieces with. Hopefully that will take care of those.
I have been running the engine every week or two to keep the fluids circulated and the seals lubed. The last couple of times I noticed that the engine was dropping a cylinder or two on the forward bank. I figure that the most likely culprit is an injector. The ones that were in the ITB setup were used and I had the "new" ones that came with the Shelby engine sitting on the shelf. So I had them flow checked and cleaned. They are flowing within 1% of each other so I swapped them in. Now the engine will not start. During cranking I will occasionly hear a cylinder fire but not enough to sustain any rpm at idle.
So, I am wondering if it is considered normal for an old injector to flow more fuel than a new one at the same pulse width and voltage?
I will try enrichening the mixture in the base fuel map to see if that will make any difference.
I decided to get brave and try filling in the cracked corner of my rear roof section. While I was using a half round rasp to prep the cracked area it began to look more like a factory flaw in the roof section that was filled in with something. It was crumbling away as I ground it out. I mixed up some SMC Panel Adhesive and added some chopped up fiber. After packing it into the damaged area I let it sit for about an hour. It was ready to sand down by then and as usual it took a bit longer than I thought it would but I think it came out ok. Well, hopefully ok for my first repair on this stuff...
The trunk was getting quite hot on the passenger side even with the stock sheet metal heat shield in place. I am hoping this stuff will help keep the heat out of the trunk if I put it between the stock sheet metal heat shield and the trunk. That and another heat deflector to carry the heat away from the coil pack should be sufficient.
I started the process of disconnecting the electrical and coolant systems in preparation to raise the car off the cradle hopefully for the last time. I received the heat shield kit from JC Whitney and hope to have it installed on the firewall and forward trunk wall asap.
sorry this is a lame update (I don't think you got your monies worth )... I have not worked on project "Christine" for a couple of weeks due to other priorities taking up time...
I did get by AutoZone and picked up some 90 degree molded elbows for splicing in the new heater core. Also, I lowered the car back onto the cradle and got clutch slave and rear bay coolant lines connected. When the heater core is done (probably after removing and cleaning the evap core) I will hook the rest of the engine connections up and see if the heat shield is effective.
Engine Bay/heat shield pics. Not much excitement here...
New heater core even though it does not really look new... (from Rock Auto)
Parts to splice in the elbows for the heater core...
I finally got some time to get the rest of the connections made and put the coolant back in. It surprised me somewhat that the heater lines did not trap air until I ran the engine. I put back the same amount of coolant before I ever turned the engine over... Anyway I ran it until it was at operating temp for 10 minutes and found zero leaks. The other thing I was checking for was how hot the inside trunk wall got. After installing the insulation it no longer burns the skin but it is still warm. Probably as good or better than it was originally. Now, back to prepping the body for paint... In the pic below, I tried using some JB Weld to seal up the corners of the airbox. I am curious how well the paint will stick.
I forgot to mention that I found the oil pan to be weeping oil and it appears it was coming from the rear bolt hole that holds the Trans to oil pan brace. There is no brace installed so the bolt holes were open. I simply put a bolt with silicone on the threads into the hole and hopefully that will seal things up.
Man, I love that multi carb look! It's a shame to cover it all up with an airbox though... I couldn't bear to hide everything just for the sake of getting some cold air in the cylinders if it were mine. So I went on a surfing mission to see if there was something out there that could expose those velocity stacks and I think I stumbled on something that you need! Check these out at www.h1v8.com/albums/album_i.../4566006/1513317.htm
Those look awesome! Without cutting the top of the decklid open they would not fit but I wonder if I could have a similar style clear cover made for my base plate? Hmmm I will need to look into this further. If I cut the decklid it opens up some problems with rain etc. getting into the valley of the engine. Don't know how big a deal that is but I need to consider it. Thanks for sharing.
Finally got back to sanding. My biggest worry was the forward section of the roof panel where the sun rot had crusty and cracked black paint/primer showing through the red paint. It was taking too long to cut through the old paint with 320 wet/dry so I grabbed some 220 dry and got down to the SMC in fairly short order. I am happy to report that the SMC surface appears to be undamaged and if the primer sticks it ought to look fine when painted.
[This message has been edited by cptsnoopy (edited 10-15-2010).]
Little to report. Sanding when I can. Pics below show tonight's effort. Last pic shows where I need to do another SMC repair. I suspect that this was like this from the factory as I can see some body filler in the area.
Lookin' good there Charlie. The sheepskin seats have just got to go though! Curious, who makes the wheels you bought, and what are the dimensions and offsets?
Thank you Blooze,
Yep, the skins are covering some seriously sad seats... I hope to get some nice new seats once I am sure the car will be drivable. They are so easy to get to I decided to put them low on the priority list.
The Wheels are: Front - 17X7 Borbet Type FS bright silver paint with a 38mm offset Rear - 17X8 Borbet Type FS bright silver paint with a 35mm offset
I made a mistake on the front tires though. I should have purchased 215/50R-17's instead of the 215/45R-17's. My front wheel/tire diameter is about an inch less than I wanted. The rears seem pretty close with 245/45R-17's.
[This message has been edited by cptsnoopy (edited 11-22-2010).]
I hope to get some of Jesse's lambo hinges installed soon and I am pondering the issue of door accessory wiring. I looked for contact strips and the image below is all I could find on the subject. Does anyone know of other similar options?
Ooooooo.... I'm jealous! Watch out for that overhead fan!
I wonder if Lambo hinges would work on the F355 rebodies... being a bunch wider and all, or if the added thickness between the hinge mounting location and the outer skin would cause interference problems? Anybody know?