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The White Bug by pmbrunelle
Started on: 01-03-2019 10:14 AM
Replies: 58 (1901 views)
Last post by: pmbrunelle on 09-15-2019 09:08 PM
pmbrunelle
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Report this Post05-16-2019 07:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for pmbrunelleClick Here to Email pmbrunelleSend a Private Message to pmbrunelleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

TiAL acknowledged that yes, the BOV will open during overrun.

However, they maintained that positive pressure will be maintained upstream of the throttle body whenever the BOV opens... I guess because the turbo is spinning anytime the engine is running. So normally, dirt should not come in; it should be blown out.

They did suggest that if I was driving in a very dusty/dirty environment, then a conservative approach would be to use their recirculating BOV, either with a small air filter on it, or routed back to the airbox.

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Spadesluck
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Report this Post05-17-2019 11:34 AM Click Here to See the Profile for SpadesluckSend a Private Message to SpadesluckEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I have never given much thought to a BOV ingesting during deceleration not have I seen any talk about it. Most just talk about the springs rates for opening and closing during desired operations. I myself would not be overly concerned about it. I would be most concerned for the BOV working properly during let off so I do not hurt the motor.

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pmbrunelle
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Report this Post06-09-2019 10:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for pmbrunelleClick Here to Email pmbrunelleSend a Private Message to pmbrunelleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I finished the exhaust up to the turbine inlet. I am using the stock log manifolds, but with bellows in between the ports. With the bellows, each segment of the exhaust can grow independently as they get hot, without developing undue stress.
The same reasoning applies to the bellows in the crossover pipe.



The bellows fit underneath the stock front manifold heat shield, provided that I hammered the AC compressor clearance bump flat. Since I don't have AC, no problem there.
I'm using the Volkswagen exhaust port gaskets. They have a stainless steel exterior; looks like they won't blow out.



The compressor housing is quite close to the shift cables, but I should still be able to install/uninstall them. I successfully tested this theory with the engine+cradle in the car, as if I were doing it for real.
The shift cables come really close to the crossover pipe; I'll have to come up with some sort of heat shield, in addition to the insulating sleeves that come on the Rodney Dickman cables.



Right now the turbo is supported only by the exhaust. An additional support to hold the turbo's weight is presently in the works.

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La fiera
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Report this Post06-28-2019 10:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for La fieraSend a Private Message to La fieraEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by pmbrunelle:

I finished the exhaust up to the turbine inlet. I am using the stock log manifolds, but with bellows in between the ports. With the bellows, each segment of the exhaust can grow independently as they get hot, without developing undue stress.
The same reasoning applies to the bellows in the crossover pipe.



The bellows fit underneath the stock front manifold heat shield, provided that I hammered the AC compressor clearance bump flat. Since I don't have AC, no problem there.
I'm using the Volkswagen exhaust port gaskets. They have a stainless steel exterior; looks like they won't blow out.



The compressor housing is quite close to the shift cables, but I should still be able to install/uninstall them. I successfully tested this theory with the engine+cradle in the car, as if I were doing it for real.
The shift cables come really close to the crossover pipe; I'll have to come up with some sort of heat shield, in addition to the insulating sleeves that come on the Rodney Dickman cables.



Right now the turbo is supported only by the exhaust. An additional support to hold the turbo's weight is presently in the works.



Nice set up! When is it going to be ready?!

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pmbrunelle
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Report this Post06-28-2019 11:58 PM Click Here to See the Profile for pmbrunelleClick Here to Email pmbrunelleSend a Private Message to pmbrunelleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Hopefully I'll be able to take the car for a spin a few times sometime before it snows, around November.
I've done a good amount of the work so far; I see the light at the end of the tunnel.

I try to think a few steps ahead, so that I have the right parts/supplies already on hand when I need them.

I've been thinking about the first startup, and how I should use motor oil with ZDDP or other magical ingredients to reduce the risk of wiping a cam lobe in the first half-hour of life.
So far, I have identified Redline-brand oil as a candidate:
https://www.redlineoil.com/15w40-diesel-motor-oil
I can buy this locally.

It says "WITH EXTRA ZDDP FOR WEAR CONTROL" right on the bottle.

Previously, I used 15W-40 Shell Rotella T in my Fiero, but as time goes on, I'm not even sure if that's good oil anymore.

Canadian Tire has this fake zinc stuff:
https://www.canadiantire.ca...ditive-0380268p.html
However, the Hy-per Lube doesn't have the reputation of ZDDP, so I don't feel like betting my engine on it.

[This message has been edited by pmbrunelle (edited 06-29-2019).]

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Dennis LaGrua
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Report this Post06-29-2019 09:05 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Dennis LaGruaClick Here to Email Dennis LaGruaSend a Private Message to Dennis LaGruaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Very Impressive build, neat, clean and well put together. Your knowledge of automotive electronics is also a cut above the rest. The engine should really run nice.

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

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Frenchrafe
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Report this Post06-29-2019 11:42 AM Click Here to See the Profile for FrenchrafeClick Here to Email FrenchrafeSend a Private Message to FrenchrafeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Like Denis said: Very impressive build!

I had been tempted to do up my old 2.8 into a turbo setup, rather like that Fiero that lives in Norway I belive.

Good on you to do such a well thought out 60° V6 turbo build!

Rafe

PS : Thanks for the tip in using bellows on the exhaust manifold logs - I'll be doing this the next time when mine crack again!

------------------
'87 Fiero GT. 3800 turbo. Sticky tyres. Driven hard!

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pmbrunelle
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Report this Post06-29-2019 08:38 PM Click Here to See the Profile for pmbrunelleClick Here to Email pmbrunelleSend a Private Message to pmbrunelleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua:
Your knowledge of automotive electronics is also a cut above the rest.


I work in the design of automotive electronics, so that may clarify things...

 
quote
Originally posted by Frenchrafe:
PS : Thanks for the tip in using bellows on the exhaust manifold logs - I'll be doing this the next time when mine crack again!


I think it's a good idea, but I'll only know for sure once I have some miles on the car!

[This message has been edited by pmbrunelle (edited 06-29-2019).]

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pmbrunelle
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Report this Post06-30-2019 04:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for pmbrunelleClick Here to Email pmbrunelleSend a Private Message to pmbrunelleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Here the turbo support is installed. Its function is to support the weight of the turbo, to take the weight off the crossover pipe.

I'm using a RH-LH pair of 7/16"-20 rod ends threaded into a hex rod. Since the crossover pipe sags by 0.008" under the weight of the turbo, I simply crank up the rod-end assembly to raise the turbo's position by 0.008". The idea is to put the crossover pipe into its "zero-stress" position.



I was inspired by seeing many 80s turbo Formula 1 engines having this kind of setup.

Honda RA166E: https://upload.wikimedia.or..._Collection_Hall.jpg
Renault EF4: https://upload.wikimedia.or...n_Player_Special.jpg
TAG-Porsche: https://upload.wikimedia.or...t_Porsche_Museum.jpg

However, it's not because this design is found on race cars that it's suitable for a street car. I guess I'll see what happens.

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Will
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Report this Post07-01-2019 09:48 AM Click Here to See the Profile for WillClick Here to Email WillSend a Private Message to WillEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

That does look like a fun setup. Do you have your plate laser or water-jet cut?

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pmbrunelle
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Report this Post07-01-2019 07:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for pmbrunelleClick Here to Email pmbrunelleSend a Private Message to pmbrunelleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Most of the steel plates I'm cutting with a hacksaw, angle grinder + cutoff wheel, drill press for internal corners. Bench grinder and files for the last bits of material removal.

Either I'm making 1:1 paper/cardboard models, and tracing the result on the steel, or I'm drawing lines directly on the steel with a ruler, compass, etc.

Only for the more "precision" work, or for shapes that would be a PITA to do with hand tools, then I make a *.dxf drawing, which I have cut by a metal shop in my town. They have a plasma-cutting table.

If we look at the turbo support components, the turbine housing clamping plates were something I outsourced. I made this *.dxf and had it cut from stainless:



On the other hand, the bottom mount that bolts to the transaxle was easily within my capabilities. I did the design in cardboard, traced it in steel, and then cut it out:



It was just faster and easier to DIY it. I sidestepped the difficulty of digitizing a semi-arbitrary shape (as opposed to something easy to measure, such as a circle or rectangle). Outsourcing also brings the administrative burden of having to keep tabs on the supplier.

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Will
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Report this Post07-03-2019 09:55 AM Click Here to See the Profile for WillClick Here to Email WillSend a Private Message to WillEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

LOL at seeing dimensions in inches on a drawing labeled in French...

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pmbrunelle
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Report this Post07-20-2019 08:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for pmbrunelleClick Here to Email pmbrunelleSend a Private Message to pmbrunelleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I finished the air pipe linking the turbo's compressor outlet to the throttle body:


I ended up going with the Turbosmart Vee Port Pro BOV. It's rated to be capable of venting 600 hp of compressed air, whereas the TiAL Q is rated at 1800 hp... which is overkill for my Fiero. The Turbosmart unit is physically smaller than the TiAL piece, hence I decided to go with the more compact, easier-to-package solution:


Here is the GM 3-port boost control solenoid (used on the Syclone/Typhoon). This will be computer-controlled, allowing the computer to increase the boost pressure beyond the wastegate spring setting:

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Fiero38SC
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Report this Post07-22-2019 08:49 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero38SCClick Here to Email Fiero38SCSend a Private Message to Fiero38SCEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Awesome work. Please keep it coming.

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pmbrunelle
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Report this Post07-29-2019 12:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for pmbrunelleClick Here to Email pmbrunelleSend a Private Message to pmbrunelleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I installed the TiAL MVI 2.5 wastegate actuator.

Its opening pressure is configurable by installing different combinations of springs:
http://www.tialsport.com/do...vi2.5springchart.JPG

I own the red and green springs, which should provide enough flexibility for me. I expect to fine-tune the boost pressure with the electronic solenoid, rather than by spring selection.

I got the bent-rod version of the actuator, so that it would clear the compressor housing.

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John W. Tilford
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Report this Post08-02-2019 08:20 AM Click Here to See the Profile for John W. TilfordClick Here to visit John W. Tilford's HomePageClick Here to Email John W. TilfordSend a Private Message to John W. TilfordEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Did this Fiero have any Kentucky owner history? It looks so much like my first Fiero, a 1986 white/black notchie with the same interior colors, and 2.5 "Iron Duke". The Kentucky buyer called me about an hour after driving away . . "How do I get this gas filler cap cover open?"

------------------
John W. Tilford

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pmbrunelle
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Report this Post08-02-2019 10:14 AM Click Here to See the Profile for pmbrunelleClick Here to Email pmbrunelleSend a Private Message to pmbrunelleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

It's definitely not your old Fiero. Mine has the (Canadian market) Z49 RPO code, and it still had an Ontarian car dealer sticker on the decklid when I took possession; seems like it spent its life in Canada. Additionally, mine is a 1985, and came with the 2.8 V6.

When I bought my first Fiero, I too struggled at the gas station with trying to find the filler cap release!

White bumperpad notchies were one of the most commonly produced Fiero body styles.

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pmbrunelle
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Report this Post08-18-2019 12:12 AM Click Here to See the Profile for pmbrunelleClick Here to Email pmbrunelleSend a Private Message to pmbrunelleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

The powertrain is in the car (for the moment), and everything seems to fit.

The main steps remaining before driving the car are to fabricate the exhaust piping from the turbine outlet all the way to the exit, and lastly tweaking the wiring harness as needed.



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pmbrunelle
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Report this Post09-15-2019 09:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for pmbrunelleClick Here to Email pmbrunelleSend a Private Message to pmbrunelleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I have mostly completed the post-turbo portion of the exhaust. It's 2.5" all the way to the exit. I am using a Magnaflow muffler.



Next, I must determine the exhaust hanger configuration.

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