Hey Steve. Thanx for the support. Been too long for an update, and although it really doesn't look too different, there's been a lot of hard work behind the curtain. And, I have to admit, I've had to drag my butt out there more than once. Seems I'm past the fun part. Now it's work. But, it's always good to see progress.
So, we left off with the rocker panel. Next on the list was door panel. It needed a lot of cleanup: mounts needed to be finalized, the bottom flanges needed repairs, etc. I started with the bottom.
Here are the bottom mounts before the rework
Then I reworked the front edge and the top most panel mount.
Then I tried to make a blockoff plate between the top of the panel and the Fiero door. It didn't work well, but here's a pic.
Turns out the angle was off, so it's not really blocking much. Maybe next time around.
Also, had to find a way to fix this.
Turns out the top portion/edge of the door is more gel coat than fiber glass. When I glue the blockoff panel in, I filled this hole with SMC adhesive. So far, it looks good.
With the door panel in better shape, I moved back to the front clip. The previous owner had worn off the bottom edges of the fenders. The front portions were missing part of the fender flare and wheel well support. The backs were missing the wheel well support. So, I had to create all new pieces.
This picture show the area ground down and ready for the facelift. The flare had to be added first.
Then the wheel well area.
There were areas between the fender and the light pods that needed to be filled. Cleans it up and adds some strength.
Then, moving back, the wheel well arches needed to be repaired and the fender flanges needed to be repaired. Here, I took a little more care with the pictures to give a better idea on what I did. Here's the offending area with the red paint ground off,
Then I grind the area back, tapering the edge so that the glass is very thin. I stuck the notes all over as a reminder of all that needed to be done.
Once satisfied with the cleanup, I made a pattern out of heavy stock cardboard. Once the fit was good, I cover it in packing tape.
Then I added the flange template I made a while back to create the flange between the panels. It too is covered in packing tape.
Once the templates are supported (clamps, wedges, tape), 4-5 layers of glass added.
That was enough work last night, so this is what it looked like this morning with the templates removed.
Coming along very nicely.....the time you've spent actually making improvements/moving forward...I've managed to think about what I'd like to get done......next time I HAVE time..LOL.
Wish we were closer to each other...I think we might work well together....we seem to use similar methods.....the shot of doing the well opening where you have the squeegee, the scrap of glass, the vice clamp and the prop rod.....priceless!....and something I'd do and have done in the past! Got a good chuckle out me!
Door looks great...whole thing is really starting to come together....though you pegged it...it's become "work"....but when you look back after you're driving it...it will ALL have been fun! Bottom line is...you're DOING IT!
Brings back bad old memories of looking at the underside of the front clip and wondering where the heck to start.....
A quick question. How does the door open interference issue look now with the closer front fender gap? I ended up with a slightly larger gap to accommodate the door skin thickness over stock on my 308 replica due to the hinge location versus outer door skin when the door is fully open. I like your fit and finish way better but wonder if you might end up with a bind at full open?
Looks great and keep digging at it. before you know it, you will be way down to only a couple hundred more items to check off the to-do list..... hahaha
Thanx Ted. Working with someone on occasion would be great for motivation. Since were all so far apart, reading old posts helps. Re-reading Boz's thread helped stoke the fires a bit. Neal's is a good read, too. And then there's Don's. Reread that many times.
As for the fender, that wasn't the way it was supposed to go, but the edges were pulling away from each other and I needed something quick and non-sticky to hold it together. Sometimes the quick first thought works out the best.
Hi Don, Thanx for coming by. I had the very same thought, but there is no binding or clearance issues so far. (finger's crossed)
Work looks very nice and unique.. Reminds of Ferrari 355 styling.
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Hey Joe, thanx for dropping by. I hope the move goes well so you can back at it.
As for me, not a whole lot going on between work, and vacation. But, I am still making small amounts of progress.
The last post mentioned working on the fascia. That's what I've been doing. I worked out a new mounting method for the fog lamps, and I cleaned up the front of the fascia where it interfaces with the lights. Here's some pics. Here i cut out the back support for the fog lamp, and fabricated a small tab that allows me to fasten the light to the side support.
With the new mounts roughed in, I started working on the gaps around the lights.
I had to add thickness to the fascia and close the gaps. I did this by first filling the gaps with chopped mat, then covering the whole thing with a layer of 1 1/2 oz mat. Then I realized my issue...
Having reconfigured the fog lamps to come out the back, I figure to fill the gaps and cover everything, pop the lights out, and trim to fit. great idea until I realized the turn signals still come out the front. Oops. Going to require some delicate trimming to get out.
Once I was happy with that, I made the final mounting. I used #10 body speed nuts and screws to fasten it all togeter.
Today I disassembled the lights and painted the brackets.
Next on the list is the front spoiler, but again, that will be a tale for later.
Put the front clip back on to see how it looks. Not too bad.
I'm a bit tired of fiberglass, so I went back to looking at the lights. Still no idea how to mount them. This is what I started with.
Tried a couple things yesterday. Ended up pretty frustrated, so I watched Deadpool 2 instead. This morning, it hit me within 30 seconds of being in the garage. Off to Home Depot for supplies.. This is what I came up with.
I started with the original pop up frames I made, and cut them up to reuse the front plate with the holes already set. Then I added a cover ring for added support.
Welding kind of sucks, but it will work.
Then I added some studs (10-32 screws), welded to the plate. The studs will allow me to mount the lights. Springs will go over the studs and provide the spring tension to adjust the lights. Locknuts will finish it off.
Second one done. Both held in with spring clamps.
Now, I'll clean up the back of the lights, and glue/glass the mounts in.
Merry Christmas, Bob! Glad to see the build is still progressing...even if only in your thoughts... The good thing about not being in a rush with your build is that you don't need to worry when life catches up and has you doing a few other things. I look forward to seeing progress in the new year!
To adjust your headlights you will need the hood to be open, obviously. Will the part of the hood that is over the headlight bucket be low enough to be in the path of the lights and affect the aiming process? I guess even if it is it won't be much to remove the hood for the aiming since that will rarely change. Good idea and implementation for the mounts though. The one thing I can think of that you need to be sure of is that the fiberglass the housings are suspended from needs to be heavy or reinforced. Because there are 2 lights per side with all there weight hanging behind the mount they are working as a lever to bend it back. If they are bending it at all the lights will bounce when you go over bumps and possibly crack the paint on the buckets from the flexing and possibly the fiberglass itself eventually. The easiest way to check that would be to just push down on the rear of the bulb housing lightly and see if it moves at all. If not I'd consider it good enough for government work.
Mr Corean...Thanx for the feedback. My thoughts exactly. I was thinking of building a support for the back of the lights that would connect at the original headlight mounts. I was waiting to get it all together to determine how much support is needed.
Nothing yet to relay, but I wanted to post up some info for a fellow 308 builder, and one of the items to finalize this build season is the door handles/latches.
My style kit uses hidden latches built into the body line on the door. It uses the Fiero door handles mounted to a plate that gets glued/bonded to the door. There is a hole in the body line to allow one to grab the handle with one's fingers. I thought it was cheesy and I preferred something more like the 308 door pulls, or maybe something off the 355 or newer. (edit): After thinking about it and seeing the pics again, I don't think the plates are actually mounted to the door skins, but screwed to the door itself. That makes much more sense, but must be a bit#@ to line up with the door skin.
Here are the handles that came with my body panels.
[This message has been edited by RCR (edited 03-18-2019).]