Please remember to use loctite on the front and rear bracket bolts.
Dave
On that note ,which loctite was I supposed to use? I used the red permanent stuff, and used it on the bracket bolts, the Allen caliper bolts and the bolts that hold the 2 pieces of the calipers together. Was that a no-no? Am I going to have problems getting that apart in the future with regular hand tools? I hope I'm not going to hate myself when I tear things apart to do suspension bushings this spring.
That was the loctite listed in fieroaddiction's write-up so that's what I went with.
[This message has been edited by zmcdonal (edited 01-21-2013).]
I'll put together a head count today or tomorrow and configure a price on the next batch. We have a parking brake solution....we just need to test it out.
On that note ,which loctite was I supposed to use? I used the red permanent stuff, and used it on the bracket bolts, the Allen caliper bolts and the bolts that hold the 2 pieces of the calipers together. Was that a no-no? Am I going to have problems getting that apart in the future with regular hand tools? I hope I'm not going to hate myself when I tear things apart to do suspension bushings this spring.
That was the loctite listed in fieroaddiction's write-up so that's what I went with.
Red loctite will generally require heat to loosen the bolts. Blue will not. So, if you don't have a torch, you might hate yourself.
Red loctite will generally require heat to loosen the bolts. Blue will not. So, if you don't have a torch, you might hate yourself.
That's kind of what I read about the red after the fact and got me a little worried since I don't own a torch or an impact. Although the caliper bridge bolts were extremely hard to get apart when I got them new out of the box, I ended up dragging my workbench across the basement when I had it in the vice with a big breaker bar and a 3-4ft pipe on it, so I assumed they might have had some sort of loctite on them since the torque spec isn't that high for them.
It look like I have enough interest in running off another batch. I'll put an order in today or tomorrow for 12 front sets, bolts, and rings. I promised I'd complete the parking brake setup, so I'll get my car on the lift this week and test out my mod. If all goes well, the parking brake mod will be an inexpensive add on to the original setup with stock cables.
It look like I have enough interest in running off another batch. I'll put an order in today or tomorrow for 12 front sets, bolts, and rings. I promised I'd complete the parking brake setup, so I'll get my car on the lift this week and test out my mod. If all goes well, the parking brake mod will be an inexpensive add on to the original setup with stock cables.
I'm finishing up the parking brake stuff. I had to special order some pieces to make the extension cable. They came in yesterday and I still have to drill and cut them to work right.
As for ordering the kits, I will probably have to get a deposit upfront for the kits as it costs me over $1000 to place an order with the CNC shop. Normally, I can front that but I just spent a bunch of money on buying my Saab 2.8t drivetrain for my Fiero. If all goes well, I'll have the parking brake 100% this week (as long as my shop allows me to do this...The German cars take top priority)
Dave
ps....I am not certain if the kits will fit behind 15" wheel or not. Some have said yes, some say no.
I'm finishing up the parking brake stuff. I had to special order some pieces to make the extension cable. They came in yesterday and I still have to drill and cut them to work right.
It may still be a little early since you said you're still working on the parking brake stuff, but do you have a ballpark figure in mind for the pieces required to fix the parking brake? I was just hoping to get some idea so I can set some money aside for it. Thanks.
Ok, I am pretty fed up trying to resolve the parking brake. I get my car on the lift and then I gotta take it back off to do a German car....honestly, the German cars pay the bills. Here is what I have managed to resolve though. This is taken from here...Fieroaddiction's site.
He states that if you run the calipers upside down, the parking brake cables fit, but bleeding the brakes would need to be done with the caliper off the car and a block of wood installed where the pads go. I tried this method and it does work.
This is about as far as I am willing to go with this unless one of you wants to order custom cables and put up a group buy for them which I am perfectly content with that. There are two companies out there that i know of that makes custom cables on the cheap. I just never seem to get the time together to trial fit and measure.
If you all are ok at this point and want another set, I'll run the numbers with the CNC shop today and post up the next batch prices.
Ok, I am pretty fed up trying to resolve the parking brake. I get my car on the lift and then I gotta take it back off to do a German car....honestly, the German cars pay the bills. Here is what I have managed to resolve though. This is taken from here...Fieroaddiction's site.
He states that if you run the calipers upside down, the parking brake cables fit, but bleeding the brakes would need to be done with the caliper off the car and a block of wood installed where the pads go. I tried this method and it does work.
This is about as far as I am willing to go with this unless one of you wants to order custom cables and put up a group buy for them which I am perfectly content with that. There are two companies out there that i know of that makes custom cables on the cheap. I just never seem to get the time together to trial fit and measure.
If you all are ok at this point and want another set, I'll run the numbers with the CNC shop today and post up the next batch prices.
Dave
Since my car needs all new brake cables, would I order a complete set of '88 cables or only the rear '88 cables and the front for an 84-87 ?
I'm also in need of new cables, but I can live with bleeding the brakes with the calipers removed. It sounds like the most cost effective way to get 12" rotors with an ebrake and stock fiero hydraulics. Spot calipers won't pass as a parking brake when inspected, and reworking the entire rear kit definitely isn't worth it considering how easy it is to flip the calipers...
I've done two kits on my personal car....My 3800s/c has the front and rear done and my VR6 has just the front done. The front only feels better than both front and rear, but both feel great. I haven't had time to even properly urinate during the course of my 14 hour workday, so i will most likely post up the CAD files for you guys to either make your own kits or someone else here can take over production Dave
[B]He states that if you run the calipers upside down, the parking brake cables fit, but bleeding the brakes would need to be done with the caliper off the car and a block of wood installed where the pads go. I tried this method and it does work.
FWIW, I converted my XR4Ti to rear discs using calipers from a Thunderbird that are also mounted upside down, for the same reason (parking brake cables). I just undo the bottom slider bolt, flip the caliper up into the air and use a disc brake piston retractor to hold the piston in place while bleeding. I did the swap in '05 or '06, and it's never been a problem. I know several folks with this same swap and nobody's had any issues. Not something I'd worry about even a little.
Still on board for a front set.
[This message has been edited by thesameguy (edited 03-08-2013).]
I wanted to update that I have emailed the CAD files and software to another member on the forum. I am too busy and he plans to take over production. It isn't fair to you guys that I don't have the time, so I passed the torch on to someone who can do this for you guys. Dave
I wanted to update that I have emailed the CAD files and software to another member on the forum. I am too busy and he plans to take over production. It isn't fair to you guys that I don't have the time, so I passed the torch on to someone who can do this for you guys. Dave
Hi everyone,
Dave has emailed me the torch along with the CAD files for the adapters and the concentric rings. Here's what I told Dave, I'm taking a CNC class this fall and planned on running a personal set as a project for class and I'm also taking a welding class in the spring and make the necessary welds to the rear ears as another class project.
What I'm now planning to do is, with the permission of the class instructor, to run as many sets as requested and maybe a few more for anyone who might be interested afterwards. I have zero welding experience. Therefore, I will send the rear brackets unwelded but will include indications where the welds will need to be made. You can weld them yourself or outsource the job if you don't have access to the equipment. Initially, I planned on doing just a personal set to gain some experience and save some money. But I want to help Dave with this project since he has greatly helped me and it really doesn't feel right to make a profit on something Dave worked on and designed, so I will sell that for pretty much at-cost. I will find the cost of materials, start gathering packing material, and make crude mock-ups to find the smallest USPS Priority Flat-Rate box I can fit them into. I figure since the parts will be metal, it will be a relatively heavy package and would be cheapest to use the Flat-Rate boxes. Once done, I will post what the tentative cost of each kit should be. I won't take a payment from you until your parts are packed and ready to ship. In the meantime, please indicate which kit you want (front, rear, or both) and how many of each so I'll have an idea of what to look forward to. Let's continue posting in this thread to keep things easier. I'll talk to the instructor when class starts mid-August and as soon as I get the go-ahead, I will PM those interested to confirm if they're still interested and we'll go from there. If I can't get the go-ahead, I'll look into an alternate method of getting this done; I'll likely find the cheapest CNC shop locally and have them make it but I'm sure it will substantially increase the price. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask.
Take me off the list, I am going to need them before you get over your learning curve.
Thanks,
TXOPIE
If you need them so soon, I get some quotes from a few CNC shops; I just thought I would help members save some money by skipping the CNC shop since they can be a little expensive. It would be helpful to make this a group buy to reduce the cost-per-unit as much as possible. Anyone else interested in a run?
I could make my own if I had the deminsions. If you don't plan on making anything off of them is there anyway you could share the info with the group so those of us that can make our own can go ahead and make them. Thank, Ben
[This message has been edited by BlownFiero86 (edited 03-13-2013).]
I could make my own if I had the deminsions. If you don't plan on making anything off of them is there anyway you could share the info with the group so those of us that can make our own can go ahead and make them. Thank, Ben
Blown,
If Ben does share the files..I would be interested in if you could make me a set as well.
Ben it would be much appreciative if you could share the files.
I think you are a little confused. I am Ben and john is the person who recieved the file from dave.lol
Thank you for making the clarification Ben.
Even though he suggested doing so anyway, I just double-checked with Dave about posting the files and he is still all for it. He wanted to do that from the get-go, but couldn't post them in their format without the software from emachine to read them. This is that software:
Click the green "DOWNLOAD CAD SOFTWARE" button and follow through; watching the little YouTube video on that page helps getting into that software. I don't know of any hosting websites that can host this type of file and make it available for download either so PM me your email address and I will send you the CAD files via email.
I forgot to include in my last post, the CAD drawing for the rear bracket is incomplete. Once that bracket has been milled, you will need to weld a quarter-inch thick, one inch square with a centered hole to each end of it. The front bracket drawing is complete and can be milled as one piece. Thanks, John
Like I said before, if you guys want to take over production I'm cool with that. I'm not getting out of the Fiero hobby, but my next year's goal is to generate another $100,000 gross sales out of my German car business, so my focus is pointed there.
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