When you go to the dyno, please film it. That would be awesome!
Actually I'm booking some dyno time to finish the break-in. The first start up was to break-in the cam properlly, now the engine needs to be at certain loads to properlly seat the rings.
Nice. Is that a stacked plate cooler? The angle of the picture makes it tough to tell if it is or a tube-and-fin.
I have read (see: this could be bad information, please get your grains of salt ready) that you don't want to get engine oil too cool, because it should reach near an ideal operating temperature. I guess because of oil viscosity changes at different temps? I wonder if that means you'd have run an oil that is a little 'heavier' so it's at the same viscosity at a lower temp than the normal oil would be at higher temps?
I dunno! Hence the question. I have a small one sitting in my wishlist on Summit (and one for my transmission, too).
Its actually two Setrab coolers coupled together capable of managing 550hp between the two. I'm planing to use this engine for about 30 to 45 minutes at full tilt, so I'll take all the cooling I can get! If you make 1000hp and only display it for 30 seconds, then you don't need any coolers.
That said, if you want to keep the oil temps within typical operating range, you could use a sandwich adapter (for the oil filter) with a thermal valve in it. When the oil is cold, the cooler is bypassed (oil goes straight into the engine). When it reaches a set temperature, the valve opens and routes the oil through the cooler. I had a setup like that (with a thermal controlled fan on the oil cooler), and it worked great!
Originally posted by Trinten: .... I have read (see: this could be bad information, please get your grains of salt ready) that you don't want to get engine oil too cool, because it should reach near an ideal operating temperature. I guess because of oil viscosity changes at different temps? ....
That's why Renault started sticking their coolers inside the radiator tanks in the early '80s. It came their experience in F1. I'd say that Rei knows what he is doing and he's not about to trash his new engine!
The way I designed this engine was to release all the available power as soon and progressively as possible, without lag. Power produces heat and the faster the power is delivered, the faster the heat will increase. So, with that in mind I have to advance the timing of the cooling system to compensate on the earlier stages of hp/heat development thus the oversized oil cooler. Trinten's assumptions are right for the average street/strip or once in a while all power/heat delivery. He was right on the money!
Awesome to see that thing fire up! I can't wait to see some track footage and see what it puts down on the dyno. Very nice job.
Thank you Mr. Hennings!! I did the camshaft break-in at home, the seating of the rings (final break-in) will be at my local dyno, the one that I've always used. So I'll make sure I get some footage of the sound inside and outside. Also May 1st and 2nd are the dates tentative to give it it's first shakedown at the track. That'll be at Summit Point Main, Will's backyard. Will, you should come down and give me a hand!
Also May 1st and 2nd are the dates tentative to give it it's first shakedown at the track. That'll be at Summit Point Main, Will's backyard. Will, you should come down and give me a hand!
Depends on whether I can make progress getting *MY* car on the road!
Depends on whether I can make progress getting *MY* car on the road!
No worries Will. If that doesn't come through because I don't have a truck or trailer to trailer it to the track. I depend on friends to go to far places with this car. Carolina Motorsports Park is only an hour and a half away. This coming week I book dyno time to break in the rings. I'll take me like 2 hours to do it properly. After that is changing the oil and then start tuning for power. I have to get this done before I hit the track.
I was thinking of getting rid of the alternator and installing the Morco water pump electric motor drive system...
...
But recently I saw how you can convert the alternator into a motor and give it 24 or 48 volts...so now I want to do that and install 2 LiFePO4 batteries...
Sorry guys no more videos. Since YouTube is putting adds on my vids and making money on them and giving me nothing I had to pull the plug. King Salomon said under inspiration "The one giving giftsto the rich will end up in poverty" Proverbs 22:16
Sorry guys no more videos. Since YouTube is putting adds on my vids and making money on them and giving me nothing I had to pull the plug. King Salomon said under inspiration "The one giving giftsto the rich will end up in poverty" Proverbs 22:16
I'll keep progress here with pictures!
I haven't bothered much with YouTube... What are their standards for letting you monetize your channel?
Youtube likes to make things with monetization a bit of a moving target, but here is their general outline:
1. You need to have 1,000 subscribers on your YouTube channel. 2. Your videos have generated 4,000 Watch Time hours over the last 12 months. 3. You comply with all YouTube's policies and guidelines. 4. You have an AdSense account set up.
Item 3 is where they really stick it to a lot of content creators. "Bad language", "overly-aggressive content", "unsettling content", etc have been cited by content creators when their videos have gotten de-monetized.
One guy that does deep dives into odd pockets of History had one of his de-monetized because he showed an image that was considered 'too graphic', though he cited the source as an image from a Time Life magazine from however-long-ago.
I don't think Rei would need to worry about any of those... maybe we could get 1k PFF users to subscribe!
I haven't bothered much with YouTube... What are their standards for letting you monetize your channel?
I'm not even close to that level, they told me "we will let you know". What bothers me is that If I can't make money on my own videos, why should YouTube use them to show products and services to my viewers? Its not so much about the money, its about being fair.
A few months ago, YouTube started running ads on non-monetized channels. So basically, they're making money off of the video creators, while the creators don't see a dime. I think that's bullshit.
If you don't intend to ever monetize your videos, you could probably stop the ads by making your content "not advertiser friendly". YouTube hates firearms. So hold a gun while you record the video, and you're set.
When you go to the dyno, please film it. That would be awesome!
This is not the Dyno but a pre cursor of it. Here's a glimpse of the first 7 miles on this motor. I'm only doing 3/4 throttle pulls and let it decel to brake in the rings. At the18 second mark the secondaries started to open before shifting, so pay attention how the engine note changes. Needs a lot of tuning but there's potential! After that changed the oil a 3rd time to 10W40 High Zinc Mineral oil and then tomorrow I'll re adjust the rocker arm gap. I'll do another 200 miles on this oil on the Dyno to be safe while doing some tuning but enjoy the sound now because since YouTube makes money on my videos and I'm not I'll only have it up for 2 weeks after that I'll be private.
Rei, The change in sound and effect at 18 sec looks very promising. As you said you need a lot of tuning but it looks very promising. Do not let go! I can't wait to see the rest Claude
Rei, The change in sound and effect at 18 sec looks very promising. As you said you need a lot of tuning but it looks very promising. Do not let go! I can't wait to see the rest Claude
Thank you Claude for your honest response! I think you are right. By screwing YouTube the consequences would be paid by my followers not getting what they want. I made my channel to inform people, not to make money. I'll put back all the videos.
If you have a computer you can leave on most of the time, I can help you setup dynamicDNS, and you could host a really basic HTML page on that computer with links to the .mp4 of the videos and a description. People could download them and watch them?
Then you can make that site part of your Signature?
Oh! You could also talk to CowsPatoot. He has a Fiero reference site out there with a lot of diagrams. He might be willing to host the videos?
[This message has been edited by Trinten (edited 05-16-2021).]
If you have a computer you can leave on most of the time, I can help you setup dynamicDNS, and you could host a really basic HTML page on that computer with links to the .mp4 of the videos and a description. People could download them and watch them?
Then you can make that site part of your Signature?
Oh! You could also talk to CowsPatoot. He has a Fiero reference site out there with a lot of diagrams. He might be willing to host the videos?
Just watched your YT update posted today. You mentioned maxing your 30lb injectors and stock fuel pump at the 250whp mark.
Any reason why you only made a relatively small injector upgrade (36lb) rather than using something like a Deka 60lb to get more headroom? I'm nearly positive the MS can drive them and it seems like where you want to go, you'll max 36lb injectors soon enough.
I don't have a GM example, but I did a 4.0L 60* Toyota V6 (1GRFE) that put down 397rwhp (through a 4WD truck drivetrain) @ 15psi through Deka 60s (and later Deka 80s), and idle/part throttle behaved just like stock.
Also, the motor sounds wild in that last driving video. It sounded like it may have a bit of a lean pop down low though?
Just watched your YT update posted today. You mentioned maxing your 30lb injectors and stock fuel pump at the 250whp mark.
Any reason why you only made a relatively small injector upgrade (36lb) rather than using something like a Deka 60lb to get more headroom? I'm nearly positive the MS can drive them and it seems like where you want to go, you'll max 36lb injectors soon enough.
I don't have a GM example, but I did a 4.0L 60* Toyota V6 (1GRFE) that put down 397rwhp (through a 4WD truck drivetrain) @ 15psi through Deka 60s (and later Deka 80s), and idle/part throttle behaved just like stock.
Also, the motor sounds wild in that last driving video. It sounded like it may have a bit of a lean pop down low though?
That was an old video, the reason it posted today is because I took all the videos off YouTube and decided to put them back in. Right now I have 50lbs injectors. I don't know about that Toyo engine but It must be 4 valves per cylinders to require those big injectors and if those Deka 60s that probably require 43psi and you had them running on 15psi they are not 60s anymore, they are about 35lb due to the change in pressure. As far as the lean pop, I do that on purpose!
if those Deka 60s that probably require 43psi and you had them running on 15psi they are not 60s anymore, they are about 35lb due to the change in pressure. As far as the lean pop, I do that on purpose!
He's talking 15 psi of boost pressure, not fuel pressure.
That was an old video, the reason it posted today is because I took all the videos off YouTube and decided to put them back in. Right now I have 50lbs injectors. I don't know about that Toyo engine but It must be 4 valves per cylinders to require those big injectors and if those Deka 60s that probably require 43psi and you had them running on 15psi they are not 60s anymore, they are about 35lb due to the change in pressure. As far as the lean pop, I do that on purpose!
Ahh the video being old makes more sense.
The Dekas were in front of a 450 Walbro. They got 48psi of fuel. The Rotrex C38 made 15psi of boost. Injector duty cycles were in the 80-85% range IIRC.
They were 4valve/cyl DOHC heads but cylinder volume is cylinder volume and HP is HP. When you're cramming air in how many valves you have doesn't matter as much.
Anyway, don't want to hijack thread. Was just curious.
The Dekas were in front of a 450 Walbro. They got 48psi of fuel. The Rotrex C38 made 15psi of boost. Injector duty cycles were in the 80-85% range IIRC.
They were 4valve/cyl DOHC heads but cylinder volume is cylinder volume and HP is HP. When you're cramming air in how many valves you have doesn't matter as much.
Anyway, don't want to hijack thread. Was just curious.
Sorry mate, I got lost in the but now I understand. And you are right about the air cramming and valve relation. Can't wait to see your V8 running!
So today I went ahead and removed the valve covers and re adjusted the valve lash. At the same time inspected everything and it's all good. Changed the oil with fresh Mineral high ZDDP and a new filter to keep breaking the rings properlly.
I've had previosly installed some temperature strips to monitor oil temp at the filter and the pan to get an idea of what to use to increase air flow through the oil cooler. As you can see the highest temp was 268F of oil temperature. But let me tell you, I really dogged the motor while testing it for the first time like you saw in the previous video. I did an entire hour of that in a closed circuit in an industrial park near my house.
I did the same thing with the cooling system. I installed the same temp strip at one head to monitor the highest temp and I found it just like this!
This is a screen shot of the recording of that hour of break-in. Pay attention to the white gauges, specially the left one. That is coolant temp, it's right at 150F and while looking at the entire video it was solid on 150F. The electric WP system works perfect! I'll program it to get it to 160F later on.
Now that the valves are re lashed I can start dataloging and fine tuning the MS.
[This message has been edited by La fiera (edited 05-20-2021).]
Now I see why you have that giant oil cooler. Do you think a fan would help with the temperature spikes?
Since the beginning the plan was to keep the coolant temp as low as possible (140-150F) to keep the top end cool, maintain the inlet charge as cool as possible so the motor can keep the heat were is most efficient, the combustion chamber. The read deck lid is being modified with a big scoop to direct airflow while the car is in motion thus drawing heat from the oil cooler on demand. Oil temp target is 230-270F.
For the ones that don't know you may be wondering! Why did I raised the injectors hi up if they are not pointing to the cylinder below? This picture is at the rear of the engine, which means the cylinders are 3, 2, 1, from left to right. Well, the injectors are numbered 6, 4, 2!? Reason being becasue they feed the opposite side. I was able to locat them 7 inches higher up for better atomization and to absorb heat from the incoming air.
[This message has been edited by La fiera (edited 05-21-2021).]
Sorry mate, I got lost in the but now I understand. And you are right about the air cramming and valve relation. Can't wait to see your V8 running!
