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Fiero Store distributor by fierofrenzy
Started on: 02-02-2018 08:12 PM
Replies: 67 (1085 views)
Last post by: Fiero Vice on 02-09-2018 02:06 AM
fierofrenzy
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Report this Post02-02-2018 08:12 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofrenzyClick Here to Email fierofrenzySend a Private Message to fierofrenzyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Has anyone on here purchased the Fiero Stores rebuilt distributor ? Being mines the now 30 year old stock unit, I'm seriously considering replacing it with the rebuilt unit from the F.S.
It seems to be somewhat pricey, but if the unit is very high in quality, I'm gonna go with it. Right now I'm interested in what responses I get here. This would be the 88 V-6 distributor.
Thanks beforehand.
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Report this Post02-02-2018 08:38 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fierofrenzy:

...considering replacing it with the rebuilt unit from the F.S. It seems to be somewhat pricey...


Damn... $170

Does it even come with a genuine ACDelco ignition module, or is it some no-name brand?

What's wrong with your original distributor?
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Spadesluck
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Report this Post02-02-2018 09:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SpadesluckSend a Private Message to SpadesluckEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You could also just purchase a new Cardone for $130 that is not a reman....

[This message has been edited by Spadesluck (edited 02-02-2018).]

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Kevin87FieroGT
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Report this Post02-02-2018 11:47 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Kevin87FieroGTSend a Private Message to Kevin87FieroGTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Buy the Cardone Select at Rock Auto ($71), but use a A/C Delco ignition module in it. Keep the Cardone ignition module that comes with the distributor as a spare. All new parts, no reman. Should last a long time.

https://www.rockauto.com/en...ion,distributor,7108

https://www.rockauto.com/en...ol+module+(icm),7172

[This message has been edited by Kevin87FieroGT (edited 02-02-2018).]

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pmbrunelle
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Report this Post02-03-2018 12:42 AM Click Here to See the Profile for pmbrunelleClick Here to Email pmbrunelleSend a Private Message to pmbrunelleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:
Damn... $170


plus $50 core charge

I know that FS needs to make a profit, but that's an out-of-this world profit margin for a GM parts-bin distributor, a component that is not specific to the Fiero.
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css9450
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Report this Post02-03-2018 07:50 AM Click Here to See the Profile for css9450Click Here to Email css9450Send a Private Message to css9450Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Alternatively, is there a parts store near you where you can get one over the counter? Might be worth the savings on shipping.

I have no idea what brand Fiero Store sells, but its a sure bet that same brand is available either locally or at Rock Auto.

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olejoedad
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Report this Post02-03-2018 10:20 AM Click Here to See the Profile for olejoedadClick Here to Email olejoedadSend a Private Message to olejoedadEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The new Cardone is a better design and is available at any auto supply store.
When installed, is is visually indistinguishable from the older design that was OEM.
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Report this Post02-03-2018 01:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for IMSA GTClick Here to Email IMSA GTSend a Private Message to IMSA GTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by olejoedad:

The new Cardone is a better design and is available at any auto supply store.
When installed, is is visually indistinguishable from the older design that was OEM.


This is why I always question the logic of the members on this forum. People treat the Fierostore like they are the God's of parts. The Fiero Store only needs be used for Fiero-specific body clips, interior parts, and reproduction items.

Other than that, people should be buying engine parts from a standard automotive website or their local stores. It is a lot cheaper.

[This message has been edited by IMSA GT (edited 02-03-2018).]

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Fiero Vice
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Report this Post02-03-2018 06:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero ViceSend a Private Message to Fiero ViceEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Kevin87FieroGT:

Buy the Cardone Select at Rock Auto ($71), but use a A/C Delco ignition module in it. Keep the Cardone ignition module that comes with the distributor as a spare. All new parts, no reman. Should last a long time.



Not a bad idea! On the other hand, if you buy an aftermarket distributor & replace all parts with ACDelco brand (Cap, rotor, pickup coil, & ICM), will that work as good as Cardone? Or just rebuild your original distributor.

From what I was told, the newer distributor is a better design. How is the newer type any different from the OEM ones?

[This message has been edited by Fiero Vice (edited 02-07-2018).]

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Patrick
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Report this Post02-03-2018 07:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero Vice:

How is the newer type any different from the OEM ones?


Google is your friend. The magnetic triggers are very different.
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pmbrunelle
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Report this Post02-03-2018 07:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for pmbrunelleClick Here to Email pmbrunelleSend a Private Message to pmbrunelleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

Google is your friend. The magnetic triggers are very different.


The trigger wheel (and its fixed counterpart) has more pointy points than the original design.

It may result in a stronger signal to the ICM, which would be more repeatable/stable. This is a guess though; an oscilloscope measurement would be needed for a comparison.

Probably the stability of the trigger itself is immaterial if your engine's timing chain has 1/2" of slack in it.
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Report this Post02-03-2018 08:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for olejoedadClick Here to Email olejoedadSend a Private Message to olejoedadEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The two designs have the same number of magnetic induction points (one per cylinder) but the new design is more robust and has closer tolerances between the points when they align. The induction coil is also a better design than OEM.
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Kevin87FieroGT
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Report this Post02-03-2018 09:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Kevin87FieroGTSend a Private Message to Kevin87FieroGTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Pretty well proven here on PFF that the A/C Delco OE style module is better. Though some will say they have had good luck with Standard and the other brands of modules. Most of the replacement distributors out there have second tier modules in them. With a replacement Cardone distributor I have had a module failure (only about 500 miles on it). Since replacing that bad module with a Delco I've had no problems over 10,000 miles. And yes the Cardone module did have thermal paste under it. The thermal paste acts as a heat sink for the module. A new Delco module should include a tube of the paste with it.

As for the pickup coil, there appears to be little or no difference between all those available. For $10 - $15 though you can put in an A/C Delco one if it makes you feel better, again use the one supplied for a spare.

[This message has been edited by Kevin87FieroGT (edited 02-03-2018).]

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Patrick
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Report this Post02-03-2018 09:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Kevin87FieroGT:

The thermal paste acts as a heat sink for the module.


Just a slight clarification... it's the base of the distributor that acts as the heat sink. By filling in any small gaps, thermal paste helps to transfer heat from the module to this metal base.
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Kevin87FieroGT
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Report this Post02-03-2018 10:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Kevin87FieroGTSend a Private Message to Kevin87FieroGTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thanks for the correction.
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Fiero Vice
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Report this Post02-03-2018 11:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero ViceSend a Private Message to Fiero ViceEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

Google is your friend. The magnetic triggers are very different.


Of course, Rodney's thread provided some details. However, it doesn't hurt to hear what others think on this thread.

Thanks, Pmbrunelle & Olejoedad, for the explanation.

Speaking of heat sink paste, since Radio Shack is now out of business, others swore by Best Buy's brand. Others disagreed with that opinion, saying computer heat sink paste has metal chemical that is not beneficial for the distributor. Any thoughts on what heat sink paste is the best?

[This message has been edited by Fiero Vice (edited 02-07-2018).]

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Patrick
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Report this Post02-03-2018 11:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero Vice:

Others disagreed with that opinion, saying computer heat sink has metal chemical that is not beneficial for the distributor.


Say what? Got a link?
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Fiero Vice
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Report this Post02-03-2018 11:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero ViceSend a Private Message to Fiero ViceEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

Say what? Got a link?


From Facebook Fiero groups, hard to find it. Unlike Pennock's, you can't just type in the search or thru Google. That's one negative about FB.

Which heat sink paste do you think is the best?

Arctic silver paste seem to get pretty good feedback on the forum.

[This message has been edited by Fiero Vice (edited 02-07-2018).]

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Fiero Vice
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Report this Post02-04-2018 12:02 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero ViceSend a Private Message to Fiero ViceEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
So, aftermarket distributors are no good even though it has newer design?

Cardone Select is the best one out there?
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Patrick
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Report this Post02-04-2018 12:50 AM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero Vice:

From Facebook Fiero groups...


FB is useless for anything that matters.

 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero Vice:

Which heat sink do you think is the best?


As has already been clarified, the distributor base is the heat sink.

 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero Vice:

Arctic silver heat sink seem to get pretty good feedback on the forum.


It's fine.

IMO... as long as it's thermal paste/thermal compound that's used with computer CPUs, it'll do the trick.
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Fiero Vice
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Report this Post02-04-2018 01:35 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero ViceSend a Private Message to Fiero ViceEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Came across two heat sink paste 2018 reviews. Have you guys tried any of those brands on the list?

11 Best Thermal Pastes 2018

5 Best Thermal Pastes 2018
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Report this Post02-04-2018 07:32 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Kevin87FieroGTSend a Private Message to Kevin87FieroGTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Rock Auto’s Spectra Premium distributor is also very good. Same style as the Cardone, but the pickup coil sits in a pot that is somewhat heat shielded. You can research it on Spectra’s web site. I’ve been running one for two years on a 2.8 L with no issues, also using the Delco module in it. It is a fully new parts distributor, not reman.

https://www.rockauto.com/en...ion,distributor,7108

[This message has been edited by Kevin87FieroGT (edited 02-04-2018).]

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Mytime
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Report this Post02-04-2018 08:01 AM Click Here to See the Profile for MytimeClick Here to Email MytimeSend a Private Message to MytimeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I need to talk about my recent distributor experience here. I had to replace my distributor in my Formula about 6 months ago. Went for the cheapest I could find, google search, Am-autoparts. $59.00, free shipping. Came w/a cap rotor and module, not ACDelco. I gave it a shot. Brand new, Cardone looking internals, I have one of those in my '86 GT. It looked just like it. Put it in the car, got everything set, no fire. Pulled all electronics, replaced with spares, (we all got 'em) nothing. Finally pulled the module, put my old one in there, the car fired right up. I was a little upset but it was working. Now I was satisfied w/the distributor at that cost but I contacted Am-autoparts by email, just to let them know their module was bad. I didn't even expect a response at that price point, I figure you get what you pay for. They responded, immediately, on a Sunday, they would look into it. Sent me another email the next day, they apologized for the inconvenience, their internal investigation found my story to be probable, they are sending me another distributor, don't worry about sending the other back! I received a second distributor a couple of days later complete, cap, rotor and module. It's sitting on the spare pars shelf. So, if this was a newer car and I REALLY needed that part to work right now, I would have been more upset. But I have to compliment their customer service, it's too rare these days. I liked that better than the price. I will go there first for any part now.
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Fiero Vice
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Report this Post02-04-2018 08:55 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero ViceSend a Private Message to Fiero ViceEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Mytime:

I need to talk about my recent distributor experience here. I had to replace my distributor in my Formula about 6 months ago. Went for the cheapest I could find, google search, Am-autoparts. $59.00, free shipping. Came w/a cap rotor and module, not ACDelco. I gave it a shot. Brand new, Cardone looking internals, I have one of those in my '86 GT. It looked just like it. Put it in the car, got everything set, no fire. Pulled all electronics, replaced with spares, (we all got 'em) nothing. Finally pulled the module, put my old one in there, the car fired right up. I was a little upset but it was working. Now I was satisfied w/the distributor at that cost but I contacted Am-autoparts by email, just to let them know their module was bad. I didn't even expect a response at that price point, I figure you get what you pay for. They responded, immediately, on a Sunday, they would look into it. Sent me another email the next day, they apologized for the inconvenience, their internal investigation found my story to be probable, they are sending me another distributor, don't worry about sending the other back! I received a second distributor a couple of days later complete, cap, rotor and module. It's sitting on the spare pars shelf. So, if this was a newer car and I REALLY needed that part to work right now, I would have been more upset. But I have to compliment their customer service, it's too rare these days. I liked that better than the price. I will go there first for any part now.


Yeah, I've heard of AM auto parts. They offer 10 years warranty on some, if not all, of their auto parts, which is nice. I bought one of their ICMs as back up when I got back into the Fiero game few years ago, but realized after reading threads that ACDelco is the best one out there.

Yeah, gotta give them A+++ for their customer service! But they can't tell you much about where their parts came from. Someone mentioned that some of the cheaper parts are from the same factory where ACDelco was made. But I'm not taking any chance until I have a concrete proof from someone who works in the auto parts field. I don't want to get stuck on the side of the road in the rain over some cheap parts. Almost all mechanics out there would always recommend going with OEM parts.
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fierofrenzy
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Report this Post02-04-2018 11:40 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofrenzyClick Here to Email fierofrenzySend a Private Message to fierofrenzyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Wow, great amount of information here. Thanks you guys !

So I'm sold on the Cardone unit. I did some internet research and it appears that this distributor is a very solid, quality unit. The reviews also back this up. I got a bonus check coming soon, and Im gonna purchase one, thanks to you guys.
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Patrick
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Report this Post02-04-2018 04:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

What's wrong with your original distributor?


Turns out my question from the first response in this thread was never addressed. I just wanted to add that it's rather unusual to need to replace a distributor.

This is a picture from a ten year old thread Here where I discussed what I had discovered. After cleaning it up, it continues to perform fine to this very day.

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Report this Post02-04-2018 05:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for USMUCLSend a Private Message to USMUCLEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I used the Cardone distributor because of all the threads stating it was an upgrade design to the OEM. But I swapped out the cheap ICM that came with it for the ACDelco ICM. Used Super Lube Heat Sink Compound bought at Granger.

Some have said the paste that comes with the ICMs, even the ACDelco, is just dielectric grease and not a true heat conductor. Also, when I looked into buying the Arctic Silver Heat Sink Compound, meant for computers, the guy at the computer store swore that it couldn't handle the heat and humidity changes it would get under the hood of a car.

So, bottom line, I chose to play it safe and paid the $8 for the Super Lube and the $25 for the ACDelco ICM. FWIW
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Report this Post02-04-2018 11:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero ViceSend a Private Message to Fiero ViceEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by USMUCL:
Also, when I looked into buying the Arctic Silver Heat Sink Compound, meant for computers, the guy at the computer store swore that it couldn't handle the heat and humidity changes it would get under the hood of a car.


That's what the other guys from Facebook Fiero groups were saying. Gotta debate about metal chemical in paste some more.

[This message has been edited by Fiero Vice (edited 02-04-2018).]

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Patrick
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Report this Post02-04-2018 11:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by USMUCL:

...the guy at the computer store swore that it couldn't handle the heat and humidity changes it would get under the hood of a car.


A computer CPU gets a whole lot hotter than the engine bay of any car, and it's not like the ignition module is open to the weather... it's inside the distributor!

This "debate" about thermal paste is IMO a lot of hullabaloo about nothing much.

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Report this Post02-04-2018 11:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero ViceSend a Private Message to Fiero ViceEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

A computer CPU gets a whole lot hotter than the engine bay of any car, and it's not like the ignition module is open to the weather... it's inside the distributor!

This "debate" about thermal paste is IMO a lot of hullabaloo about nothing much.


Even though it's inside the distributor, it's still exposed to moisture & air where it would get rust as shown in your picture above, especially in wet places as yours.

A test of two different type of pastes could go a long way. Like you said earlier, Google is indeed our friend & will need to research some more for auto use, especially in older cars that is similar as our Fieros.
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Report this Post02-05-2018 12:04 AM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero Vice:

Even though it's inside the distributor, it's still exposed to moisture & air where it would get rust as shown in your picture above...


As I understand it, corrosion inside the distributor is due to ionization more so than to moisture.
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Report this Post02-05-2018 02:11 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero ViceSend a Private Message to Fiero ViceEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

As I understand it, corrosion inside the distributor is due to ionization more so than to moisture.


If that's the case due to poor ventilation, maybe we need to drill some 1/4" holes to reduce pressure build up and allow more air flow to prevent ionization.

Did anyone tried that?
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Report this Post02-05-2018 03:15 AM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Fiero Vice:

...maybe we need to drill some 1/4" holes to reduce pressure build up and allow more air flow to prevent ionization.


There is already screened ventiation in the base of the distributor.

Do what I did ten years ago, and ignition problems will be a thing of the past. I'm still running the same ignition module after all this time. Transferred the distributor from my '86 GT to my '88 Formula, then autocrossed the car for three years as well.

Installed heatsink on distributor under ignition module
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Report this Post02-05-2018 06:09 AM Click Here to See the Profile for USMUCLSend a Private Message to USMUCLEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Patrick, to clarify a little, the computer store guy said the Arctic Silver would harden and become useless because of said humidity and temp changes.

Not saying I believe it, only that it wasn't worth the risk when the Super Lube says right on it that it is made for automobile ignition systems.
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Report this Post02-05-2018 07:32 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Kevin87FieroGTSend a Private Message to Kevin87FieroGTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Just for reference. When ever I removed a OEM module, the thermal paste was dry and crumbled like chalk. Maybe part of the problem. Not to beat the horse, but a better paste would be nice.

Glad to see the OP got the info he needed for the purchase of his Cardone distributor. Still glad to have the Fiero Store around to help out with the odd parts needed.

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Report this Post02-05-2018 07:50 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero ViceSend a Private Message to Fiero ViceEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

There is already screened ventiation in the base of the distributor.



But not at the top of the cap where heat would rise to.

In fact, one of distributor companies, MSD, advised one of their customers to drill 1/4" inch hole all the way around nearly at the top of cap for his 60's muscle car & noticed an improvement due to better ventilation. If needed, due to excessively dusty conditions, you can epoxy a screen over the holes. This will reduce the pressure build up and allow more air flow to prevent the ionization.

[This message has been edited by Fiero Vice (edited 02-05-2018).]

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Report this Post02-05-2018 08:15 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero ViceSend a Private Message to Fiero ViceEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
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Originally posted by Kevin87FieroGT:

the thermal paste was dry and crumbled like chalk. Maybe part of the problem.


I agree it's a part of the problem. I think Super Lube might be the answer.

[This message has been edited by Fiero Vice (edited 02-06-2018).]

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Fiero Vice
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Report this Post02-05-2018 08:23 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero ViceSend a Private Message to Fiero ViceEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
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Originally posted by USMUCL:

the computer store guy said the Arctic Silver would harden and become useless because of said humidity and temp changes.

Not saying I believe it, only that it wasn't worth the risk when the Super Lube says right on it that it is made for automobile ignition systems.


Yeah, it doesn't make any sense. Like others, I believe the computer store guy has a good point. Arctic Silver is not the answer.

Another thread where Super Lube was being discussed.

Super Lube link
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theogre
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Report this Post02-05-2018 02:25 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
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Originally posted by Fiero Vice:
From Facebook Fiero groups, hard to find it. Unlike Pennock's, you can't just type in the search or thru Google. That's one negative about FB.

Which heat sink paste do you think is the best?

Arctic silver heat sink seem to get pretty good feedback on the forum.
Some "Computer" HS "grease" are bad for many things in a PC too. Many believe BS hype and causes a lot of problems. At minimum most Spend a lot of $ for little to show. Most "silver" pastes are not Silver but Aluminum. Some are electrically conductive and if you get them on resistors etc can short them out. "Liquid Metal" types can can short parts and may have Gallium that "eats" Aluminum. (watch https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jeghGhVdt9s and many others.) Many fansinks still have some aluminum where meets the CPU...

I been dealing w/ heatsinks and fansinks of all types for decades... "Cheap" white and other HS grease are very good at this job.
Can get from Digikey Mouser and many others in "big" tubes that cost far less then Arctic et al for same volume.
Note: Store tube in a house and will last a long time. Store in a garage etc and tube/tub gets hot then some "oil" can separate/evaporate from "solids" parts making the grease to "spoil" or harden.

Dielectric "grease" works but not as good as HS grease.
Permatex Brake Grease works very well but is a grease and can be hard to use. Fill small gaps but flows out so coats very thin to allow metal to metal contact. BG won't attack rubber plastic etc or run when hot. (I used it on my CPU and cooler then any HS grease. FX-8370 at max turbo runs 140-150°F all day. Most times I see 65-75°F and I only have a big fansink running at 950RPM. System Noise level is too low to read on RS sound meters. They min out at 50db. Think ~40-45db but need a better unit to be sure.)

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)


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[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 02-05-2018).]

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Patrick
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Report this Post02-05-2018 02:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
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Originally posted by Fiero Vice:

In fact, one of distributor companies, MSD, advised one of their customers to drill 1/4" inch hole all the way around nearly at the top of cap for his 60's muscle car & noticed an improvement due to better ventilation.


An "improvement" of what?
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