Has anyone ever used any of ICM offered on Ebay? They are model #LX340 for the 2.8L. & models for the 2.5L
Some are under $10.00 with free shipping. 60day warranty and year warrantee can be bought for $3.99(third party). I am aware of the "you get what you pay for" scenario but sometimes you get gouged by brand names also. In looking at the number sold and no negative feedback it has me curious if anyone here has bought and used them.
It would be hard to differentiate between store bought, on line, and ebay, aftermarket or OEM, unless you somehow kept track of the manufacturer. Ebay could be from anywhere, made by unknown. If you said, "I bought one off of ebay and it works like a charm", that still leaves 55 other vendors on ebay with other parts. So I am not sure how we would keep track of good source / bad source like that.
I'm glad this post came up! I purchased a ICM off EBay by seller aero_sparks about 2 months ago and it's been working great. It costed me only 8.99 with free shipping. I was alittle nervous at first buying it but at the auto parts stores they want around 60.00! Which is crazy! So despite my nervousness I purchased the ICM and I'm very happy I did! I hope this helps! I think the seller has more ICM's for sale on EBay. Btw I am not associated with the seller what so ever and I am not receiving anything from posting this. This is just my experience with the Cheap ICM's on EBay. Here a link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/261422017352
[This message has been edited by tyro_2004_2004 (edited 06-19-2017).]
It would be hard to differentiate between store bought, on line, and ebay, aftermarket or OEM, unless you somehow kept track of the manufacturer. Ebay could be from anywhere, made by unknown. If you said, "I bought one off of ebay and it works like a charm", that still leaves 55 other vendors on ebay with other parts. So I am not sure how we would keep track of good source / bad source like that.
What TYRO said... Now we have a name of a seller and a brand to focus on.
I have had some trouble with import/no-name brands....I now have a AC/Delco USA made one....It is holding up very well.....The reason I went for this one over the others was "Word on the street" was that these held up well to the heat, etc....And for heat sink compound, I used Artic Silver...I have a spare module in a small box w/ a tube of the compound in the front compartment....Don't forget the tools to change it out!
I have had some trouble with import/no-name brands....I now have a AC/Delco USA made one....It is holding up very well.....The reason I went for this one over the others was "Word on the street" was that these held up well to the heat, etc....And for heat sink compound, I used Artic Silver...I have a spare module in a small box w/ a tube of the compound in the front compartment....Don't forget the tools to change it out!
I know, but really as long as they have been making them and the economies of scale they have it can't be that difficult to make these so ACDelco is probably putting $.10 worth of better material in them and charging 5 times as much. I like the idea of having spares and these could fit the bill nicely to get you home.
Just to update the ICM I purchased on EBay: it did not come with the screws or the thermal grease. I how ever used Lucas X-Tra Heavy Duty Grease because it's made for high temp applications and can be used for electrical connections. I did put new screws in for a better ground from my local True Value hardware store. I heard from other posts that having a perfect ground and a good high temp. grease is really the key for keeping your ICM lasting a long time.
[This message has been edited by tyro_2004_2004 (edited 06-19-2017).]
------------------ "Kilgore Trout once wrote a short story which was a dialogue between two pieces of yeast. They were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement. Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne." - Kurt Vonnegut
Seller: dtsesales, $24.99 Free Shipping, 1 year Warranty, ACDelco, With thermal grease, 99.8% Positive Rating. Trusted https://www.ebay.com/itm/272564490976
Seller: aero_spark, $8.99 Free Shipping, Life Time Warranty. No brand name, No thermal grease, 99.9% Postive Rating. Trusted https://www.ebay.com/itm/261422017352
[This message has been edited by tyro_2004_2004 (edited 06-19-2017).]
You know what? When you are sitting on the side of the freeway with cars whizzing past you at 90 miles an hour, you are 2 hrs away from home (or more) and it's 95* outside I think you won't give a rats about the 50 bucks you saved on an ICM. Its simple to change but frankly I'd rather not unless I had to in those conditions. And those are just the kind of conditions they will fail in, Murphy's law and all.
You know what? When you are sitting on the side of the freeway with cars whizzing past you at 90 miles an hour, you are 2 hrs away from home (or more) and it's 95* outside I think you won't give a rats about the 50 bucks you saved on an ICM. Its simple to change but frankly I'd rather not unless I had to in those conditions. And those are just the kind of conditions they will fail in, Murphy's law and all.
If only there were a like button here Patrick
I understand what you are saying but.......AC Delco's fail also. That is why there is an aftermarket. You are also paying for the name and the marketing expense. By the same token when that AC Delco ICM fails and you are sitting on the side of the freeway with cars whizzing past you at 90 miles an hour, you are 2 hrs away from home (or more) and it's 95* outside I think you won't give a rats if that ICM you are installing cost $10.00 or $50.00. For a mission critical part it would be a good idea to test it before relying on it as a spare also, regardless of the brand name it may or may not carry.
I don't believe that makes the ICM invalid by using a different heat sink compound. The very cheap ICM works and has been working for more than 2 months. I use my Fiero SE 1986 V6 2.8L as a daily driver from Early Spring till late Fall. So its getting a great deal of testing in seeing all conditions in beautiful Michigan. -10 dregrees too 100 degrees outside.
But I think some people are missing the point of this post. Its to determine if the brand and the amount spent on the ICM really mean something to the failure rate and I honesty don't think it does. I believe the cheap, no name brand will hold up as well as a $60.00 ICM from your local auto parts store. I believe most of the ICM fails came from improper grounds. But we need more information and experiences from others.
I'm very glad that hcforde started this post! It's going to be good for the Fiero Community
[This message has been edited by tyro_2004_2004 (edited 06-20-2017).]
Guys, Yes use Heatsink grease and good screws helps a lot but a big issue is many replace the ICM and never bother to check the rest of HEI system. Dead Modules are often a symptom for other dying parts. Example: Iffy plugs etc on High Volt side can wreck the coil(s) and/or module. (DIS has same problem for this.) See my Cave, HE Ignition
quote
Originally posted by tyro_2004_2004: I how ever used Lucas X-Tra Heavy Duty Grease because it's made for high temp applications and can be used for electrical connections.
Grease they come w/ is simple dielectric silicon product. Can work but not the best. Best are Heatsink "grease" types but many use way too much. Cheap white compound is good but Big problem is Radio Shack is gone in most places and you can't find it at most local stores. Many other electronic outlets like Digikey don't handle very small packages. Some use best grease for PC CPU but most of them are hype and expensive like many "silver" greases are just Aluminum powder in silicon oil but cost is often $15+ for a gram or 3 of product.
If you can't find HS or dielectric grease when you need it... Use Brake Grease you find a many auto parts stores. Won't eat or swell plastic and "rubber" and won't wash off/out of the spot applied to. Also doesn't run even in high heat use. BUT will flow in the joint so you don't need a lot or spread over the part. (Many HS greases doesn't flow enough for use on big parts like DIS ICM. GM installs most DIS modules dry but while that works... Water and worse can get in and cause corrosion problems.)
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
Years from now, people will be remembering this post and actually using toothpaste.... Be real interesting if it actually works!
Toothpaste would probably work just as well as Lucas X-TRA Heavy Duty Grease under an ICM... and the truth is, it more closely resembles actual heat sink compound.
Some use best grease for PC CPU but most of them are hype and expensive like many "silver" greases are just Aluminum powder in silicon oil but cost is often $15+ for a gram or 3 of product.
We use to sand and polish the cpu AND the heatsink with high grit wet-or-dry sand paper and then carefully put a thin layer of heatsink compound on...it was an art and a science.
Originally posted by hcforde: It was done for overclocking
Yes and even that is a lot of BS in many cases because most DIY builders can't make the parts fully flat using common tools available to the public. When you look w/ lab equipment, many end up Worse after lapping vs when they bought the parts. IOW May be mirrored but 1 or both surfaces are convex etc. I build PC for all kinds of work for many years and cringe when dealing w/ most overclocker and gamer people. Very few actually knows what they are doing.
I've been using Permatex BG for CPU for years too and works better then most HS greases. Any CPU w/ OE heat spreaders on top. Not sure it's safe for direct contact w/ CPU silicon like old AMD Athlon. (Some HS greases have issues w/ CPU w/o spreader too. Many current Intel AMD and other Mobile CPUs don't have heat spreaders because of space restrictions.)
I always bought Autozone ones for $20 that came with free lifetime replacements. I tried an OEM AC Delco once from a Pontiac dealer and it lasted just over a week...and cost 4 times as much and gave absolutely NO warranty on electrical parts.
OP, use the AC Delco and sleep peacefully. They can be had for $25 new on Ebay. Are there counterfeits on Ebay? I'm sure there are, so just use a reputable seller from the US, preferably one that is shown as "AC Delco Authorized Seller." They are all over Ebay. The debate about ACDelco parts, and whether they are worth the extra expense, is being mitigated each passing day because their prices are being driven down by internet shoppers. AC Delco fuel pumps are a great example of that (I got an AC Delco Fuel Pump kit from Autozone for $25).
And I used Super Lube Heat Sink Compound #98003 on my ICM. Rated high and specifically notes on the tube that it is good for ignition systems. Can be found at Grainger, though I found it cheaper on . . . wait for it . . . Ebay. The AC Delco ICM came with compound but, based on accusations that it might only be dielectric grease, I chose to play it safe.
Nothing for nothing, when I went to buy the Artic Silver at a computer store, the guy was adamant that it was NOT what I needed. He said that, when exposed to humidity and adverse weather conditions in a car, that it would harden -- that Artic Silver is meant for indoor IT gear only. He recommended that I get something meant for my application. That's when I went looking and found the Super Lube Heat Sink. Take it for what it's worth.
OP, use the AC Delco and sleep peacefully. They can be had for $25 new on Ebay. Are there counterfeits on Ebay? I'm sure there are, so just use a reputable seller from the US, preferably one that is shown as "AC Delco Authorized Seller." They are all over Ebay. The debate about ACDelco parts, and whether they are worth the extra expense, is being mitigated each passing day because their prices are being driven down by internet shoppers. AC Delco fuel pumps are a great example of that (I got an AC Delco Fuel Pump kit from Autozone for $25).
.
The hard part these days in verifying genuine - quality AC DELCO.
Toothpaste would probably work just as well as Lucas X-TRA Heavy Duty Grease under an ICM... and the truth is, it more closely resembles actual heat sink compound.
4 out of 5 dentists that drive Fieros recommend it!!!
As I have said many times before, when you buy Chinese the part could be very good or it could be very bad. In this case the OP may have hit on a well made product and for $9.99 shipped its a great buy. If you have a stock 2.8L/3.1L/3.4L P/R engine is always a good idea to carry an extra module and a set of new screws.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
Originally posted by USMUCL: Nothing for nothing, when I went to buy the Artic Silver at a computer store, the guy was adamant that it was NOT what I needed. He said that, when exposed to humidity and adverse weather conditions in a car, that it would harden -- that Artic Silver is meant for indoor IT gear only. He recommended that I get something meant for my application. That's when I went looking and found the Super Lube Heat Sink. Take it for what it's worth.
Hate to tell you but Many to Most will "dry out" even use for inside building w/ HVAC. I've cleaned many HS on many things not just PC's and many have lost the oil after 1-5 years, most after 5-8+ years. Silicon and other "oils" are mainly a "carrier" for whatever filler for actually removing heat. ("Oil" can be anything and far too many to list.)
He did save you from spending money on Arctic and other pasts. Small amount of past, 0.2oz, in a retail package cost the makers likely <$1 but many vendors charge you $8 to $15+. Arctic pasts are Zinc Oxide (30-85%) Aluminum Oxide(<5%) and Boron Nitride (<8%) (Exact % depend on past. See http://www.arcticsilver.com/msds.htm ) vs. "Standard" white like Super Lube Heat Sink is just Zinc Oxide and "oil". AS5 0.2 oz is $8 means 1oz is $64 vs many white compounds are often sell for 1oz @ ~$5 or less. Even If AS5 is better, most users won't see it to justify the high cost.
Home Depot sells Super Lube Heat Sink (3oz) but not in many store... can ship to store/home for ~$6 each.
[QUOTE]Originally posted by USMUCL: Nothing for nothing, when I went to buy the Artic Silver at a computer store, the guy was adamant that it was NOT what I needed. He said that, when exposed to humidity and adverse weather conditions in a car, that it would harden -- that Artic Silver is meant for indoor IT gear only. He recommended that I get something meant for my application. That's when I went looking and found the Super Lube Heat Sink. Take it for what it's worth.
Hate to tell you but Many to Most will "dry out" even use for inside building w/ HVAC. I've cleaned many HS on many things not just PC's and many have lost the oil after 1-5 years, most after 5-8+ years. Silicon and other "oils" are mainly a "carrier" for whatever filler for actually removing heat. ("Oil" can be anything and far too many to list.)
He did save you from spending money on Arctic and other pasts. Small amount of past, 0.2oz, in a retail package cost the makers likely <$1 but many vendors charge you $8 to $15+. Arctic pasts are Zinc Oxide (30-85%) Aluminum Oxide(<5%) and Boron Nitride (<8%) (Exact % depend on past. See http://www.arcticsilver.com/msds.htm ) vs. "Standard" white like Super Lube Heat Sink is just Zinc Oxide and "oil". AS5 0.2 oz is $8 means 1oz is $64 vs many white compounds are often sell for 1oz @ ~$5 or less. Even If AS5 is better, most users won't see it to justify the high cost.
Home Depot sells Super Lube Heat Sink (3oz) but not in many store... can ship to store/home for ~$6 each.[/QUOTE]
YEP, many computer people would cake it on. Ideally if you did it right you could barely tell it was there. Then those that were in the know would clean the components and reapply ever so often. Different environments need different requirements.
And I used Super Lube Heat Sink Compound #98003 on my ICM. Rated high and specifically notes on the tube that it is good for ignition systems. Can be found at Grainger, though I found it cheaper on . . . wait for it . . . eBay.
And for those of you who might have two or three ICMs to deal with, this stuff comes in 30 lb buckets. Seriously!
All kidding aside, this particular heat sink compound looks like a good option for use under our Fiero ICMs. But maybe get a 3 oz tube.
[bHate to tell you but Many to Most will "dry out" even use for inside building w/ HVAC. I've cleaned many HS on many things not just PC's and many have lost the oil after 1-5 years, most after 5-8+ years. Silicon and other "oils" are mainly a "carrier" for whatever filler for actually removing heat. ("Oil" can be anything and far too many to list.)
He did save you from spending money on Arctic and other pasts. Small amount of past, 0.2oz, in a retail package cost the makers likely <$1 but many vendors charge you $8 to $15+. Arctic pasts are Zinc Oxide (30-85%) Aluminum Oxide(<5%) and Boron Nitride (<8%) (Exact % depend on past. See http://www.arcticsilver.com/msds.htm ) vs. "Standard" white like Super Lube Heat Sink is just Zinc Oxide and "oil". AS5 0.2 oz is $8 means 1oz is $64 vs many white compounds are often sell for 1oz @ ~$5 or less. Even If AS5 is better, most users won't see it to justify the high cost.
Home Depot sells Super Lube Heat Sink (3oz) but not in many store... can ship to store/home for ~$6 each.
].[/QUOTE]
Well, I hate to tell you, but I can't even tell if you are saying Artic Silver is good or bad for our ICMs. Whatever your position, I was only passing on what that guy said. I don't know if he was right, but it was enough to make me take pause and do more research. I was confident in the Super Lube stuff after doing research, so all's well that ends well.
[This message has been edited by USMUCL (edited 06-22-2017).]
I used to take my ICM off yearly to clean off the grease, and re-apply fresh CPU heatsink grease. Part of the annual tuneup which includes removing the plugs, followed by inspection, cleaning, and gapping.
Once I stretched it to two years, and then I had misfire problems... which went away with the subsequent re-greasing. I think I saw water underneath the ICM that time.
It's difficult to screw the ICM tight to the distributor baseplate, because doing so will cause the flimsy baseplate and ICM to distort, reducing contact between the parts.
