Has anyone on here purchased the Fiero Stores rebuilt distributor ? Being mines the now 30 year old stock unit, I'm seriously considering replacing it with the rebuilt unit from the F.S. It seems to be somewhat pricey, but if the unit is very high in quality, I'm gonna go with it. Right now I'm interested in what responses I get here. This would be the 88 V-6 distributor. Thanks beforehand.
Buy the Cardone Select at Rock Auto ($71), but use a A/C Delco ignition module in it. Keep the Cardone ignition module that comes with the distributor as a spare. All new parts, no reman. Should last a long time.
I know that FS needs to make a profit, but that's an out-of-this world profit margin for a GM parts-bin distributor, a component that is not specific to the Fiero.
The new Cardone is a better design and is available at any auto supply store. When installed, is is visually indistinguishable from the older design that was OEM.
The new Cardone is a better design and is available at any auto supply store. When installed, is is visually indistinguishable from the older design that was OEM.
This is why I always question the logic of the members on this forum. People treat the Fierostore like they are the God's of parts. The Fiero Store only needs be used for Fiero-specific body clips, interior parts, and reproduction items.
Other than that, people should be buying engine parts from a standard automotive website or their local stores. It is a lot cheaper.
[This message has been edited by IMSA GT (edited 02-03-2018).]
Buy the Cardone Select at Rock Auto ($71), but use a A/C Delco ignition module in it. Keep the Cardone ignition module that comes with the distributor as a spare. All new parts, no reman. Should last a long time.
Not a bad idea! On the other hand, if you buy an aftermarket distributor & replace all parts with ACDelco brand (Cap, rotor, pickup coil, & ICM), will that work as good as Cardone? Or just rebuild your original distributor.
From what I was told, the newer distributor is a better design. How is the newer type any different from the OEM ones?
[This message has been edited by Fiero Vice (edited 02-07-2018).]
Google is your friend. The magnetic triggers are very different.
The trigger wheel (and its fixed counterpart) has more pointy points than the original design.
It may result in a stronger signal to the ICM, which would be more repeatable/stable. This is a guess though; an oscilloscope measurement would be needed for a comparison.
Probably the stability of the trigger itself is immaterial if your engine's timing chain has 1/2" of slack in it.
The two designs have the same number of magnetic induction points (one per cylinder) but the new design is more robust and has closer tolerances between the points when they align. The induction coil is also a better design than OEM.
Pretty well proven here on PFF that the A/C Delco OE style module is better. Though some will say they have had good luck with Standard and the other brands of modules. Most of the replacement distributors out there have second tier modules in them. With a replacement Cardone distributor I have had a module failure (only about 500 miles on it). Since replacing that bad module with a Delco I've had no problems over 10,000 miles. And yes the Cardone module did have thermal paste under it. The thermal paste acts as a heat sink for the module. A new Delco module should include a tube of the paste with it.
As for the pickup coil, there appears to be little or no difference between all those available. For $10 - $15 though you can put in an A/C Delco one if it makes you feel better, again use the one supplied for a spare.
[This message has been edited by Kevin87FieroGT (edited 02-03-2018).]
The thermal paste acts as a heat sink for the module.
Just a slight clarification... it's the base of the distributor that acts as the heat sink. By filling in any small gaps, thermal paste helps to transfer heat from the module to this metal base.
Google is your friend. The magnetic triggers are very different.
Of course, Rodney's thread provided some details. However, it doesn't hurt to hear what others think on this thread.
Thanks, Pmbrunelle & Olejoedad, for the explanation.
Speaking of heat sink paste, since Radio Shack is now out of business, others swore by Best Buy's brand. Others disagreed with that opinion, saying computer heat sink paste has metal chemical that is not beneficial for the distributor. Any thoughts on what heat sink paste is the best?
[This message has been edited by Fiero Vice (edited 02-07-2018).]
Rock Auto’s Spectra Premium distributor is also very good. Same style as the Cardone, but the pickup coil sits in a pot that is somewhat heat shielded. You can research it on Spectra’s web site. I’ve been running one for two years on a 2.8 L with no issues, also using the Delco module in it. It is a fully new parts distributor, not reman.
I need to talk about my recent distributor experience here. I had to replace my distributor in my Formula about 6 months ago. Went for the cheapest I could find, google search, Am-autoparts. $59.00, free shipping. Came w/a cap rotor and module, not ACDelco. I gave it a shot. Brand new, Cardone looking internals, I have one of those in my '86 GT. It looked just like it. Put it in the car, got everything set, no fire. Pulled all electronics, replaced with spares, (we all got 'em) nothing. Finally pulled the module, put my old one in there, the car fired right up. I was a little upset but it was working. Now I was satisfied w/the distributor at that cost but I contacted Am-autoparts by email, just to let them know their module was bad. I didn't even expect a response at that price point, I figure you get what you pay for. They responded, immediately, on a Sunday, they would look into it. Sent me another email the next day, they apologized for the inconvenience, their internal investigation found my story to be probable, they are sending me another distributor, don't worry about sending the other back! I received a second distributor a couple of days later complete, cap, rotor and module. It's sitting on the spare pars shelf. So, if this was a newer car and I REALLY needed that part to work right now, I would have been more upset. But I have to compliment their customer service, it's too rare these days. I liked that better than the price. I will go there first for any part now.
I need to talk about my recent distributor experience here. I had to replace my distributor in my Formula about 6 months ago. Went for the cheapest I could find, google search, Am-autoparts. $59.00, free shipping. Came w/a cap rotor and module, not ACDelco. I gave it a shot. Brand new, Cardone looking internals, I have one of those in my '86 GT. It looked just like it. Put it in the car, got everything set, no fire. Pulled all electronics, replaced with spares, (we all got 'em) nothing. Finally pulled the module, put my old one in there, the car fired right up. I was a little upset but it was working. Now I was satisfied w/the distributor at that cost but I contacted Am-autoparts by email, just to let them know their module was bad. I didn't even expect a response at that price point, I figure you get what you pay for. They responded, immediately, on a Sunday, they would look into it. Sent me another email the next day, they apologized for the inconvenience, their internal investigation found my story to be probable, they are sending me another distributor, don't worry about sending the other back! I received a second distributor a couple of days later complete, cap, rotor and module. It's sitting on the spare pars shelf. So, if this was a newer car and I REALLY needed that part to work right now, I would have been more upset. But I have to compliment their customer service, it's too rare these days. I liked that better than the price. I will go there first for any part now.
Yeah, I've heard of AM auto parts. They offer 10 years warranty on some, if not all, of their auto parts, which is nice. I bought one of their ICMs as back up when I got back into the Fiero game few years ago, but realized after reading threads that ACDelco is the best one out there.
Yeah, gotta give them A+++ for their customer service! But they can't tell you much about where their parts came from. Someone mentioned that some of the cheaper parts are from the same factory where ACDelco was made. But I'm not taking any chance until I have a concrete proof from someone who works in the auto parts field. I don't want to get stuck on the side of the road in the rain over some cheap parts. Almost all mechanics out there would always recommend going with OEM parts.
Wow, great amount of information here. Thanks you guys !
So I'm sold on the Cardone unit. I did some internet research and it appears that this distributor is a very solid, quality unit. The reviews also back this up. I got a bonus check coming soon, and Im gonna purchase one, thanks to you guys.
Turns out my question from the first response in this thread was never addressed. I just wanted to add that it's rather unusual to need to replace a distributor.
This is a picture from a ten year old thread Here where I discussed what I had discovered. After cleaning it up, it continues to perform fine to this very day.
I used the Cardone distributor because of all the threads stating it was an upgrade design to the OEM. But I swapped out the cheap ICM that came with it for the ACDelco ICM. Used Super Lube Heat Sink Compound bought at Granger.
Some have said the paste that comes with the ICMs, even the ACDelco, is just dielectric grease and not a true heat conductor. Also, when I looked into buying the Arctic Silver Heat Sink Compound, meant for computers, the guy at the computer store swore that it couldn't handle the heat and humidity changes it would get under the hood of a car.
So, bottom line, I chose to play it safe and paid the $8 for the Super Lube and the $25 for the ACDelco ICM. FWIW
Originally posted by USMUCL: Also, when I looked into buying the Arctic Silver Heat Sink Compound, meant for computers, the guy at the computer store swore that it couldn't handle the heat and humidity changes it would get under the hood of a car.
That's what the other guys from Facebook Fiero groups were saying. Gotta debate about metal chemical in paste some more.
[This message has been edited by Fiero Vice (edited 02-04-2018).]
...the guy at the computer store swore that it couldn't handle the heat and humidity changes it would get under the hood of a car.
A computer CPU gets a whole lot hotter than the engine bay of any car, and it's not like the ignition module is open to the weather... it's inside the distributor!
This "debate" about thermal paste is IMO a lot of hullabaloo about nothing much.
A computer CPU gets a whole lot hotter than the engine bay of any car, and it's not like the ignition module is open to the weather... it's inside the distributor!
This "debate" about thermal paste is IMO a lot of hullabaloo about nothing much.
Even though it's inside the distributor, it's still exposed to moisture & air where it would get rust as shown in your picture above, especially in wet places as yours.
A test of two different type of pastes could go a long way. Like you said earlier, Google is indeed our friend & will need to research some more for auto use, especially in older cars that is similar as our Fieros.
As I understand it, corrosion inside the distributor is due to ionization more so than to moisture.
If that's the case due to poor ventilation, maybe we need to drill some 1/4" holes to reduce pressure build up and allow more air flow to prevent ionization.
...maybe we need to drill some 1/4" holes to reduce pressure build up and allow more air flow to prevent ionization.
There is already screened ventiation in the base of the distributor.
Do what I did ten years ago, and ignition problems will be a thing of the past. I'm still running the same ignition module after all this time. Transferred the distributor from my '86 GT to my '88 Formula, then autocrossed the car for three years as well.
Just for reference. When ever I removed a OEM module, the thermal paste was dry and crumbled like chalk. Maybe part of the problem. Not to beat the horse, but a better paste would be nice.
Glad to see the OP got the info he needed for the purchase of his Cardone distributor. Still glad to have the Fiero Store around to help out with the odd parts needed.
There is already screened ventiation in the base of the distributor.
But not at the top of the cap where heat would rise to.
In fact, one of distributor companies, MSD, advised one of their customers to drill 1/4" inch hole all the way around nearly at the top of cap for his 60's muscle car & noticed an improvement due to better ventilation. If needed, due to excessively dusty conditions, you can epoxy a screen over the holes. This will reduce the pressure build up and allow more air flow to prevent the ionization.
[This message has been edited by Fiero Vice (edited 02-05-2018).]
Originally posted by Fiero Vice: From Facebook Fiero groups, hard to find it. Unlike Pennock's, you can't just type in the search or thru Google. That's one negative about FB.
Which heat sink paste do you think is the best?
Arctic silver heat sink seem to get pretty good feedback on the forum.
Some "Computer" HS "grease" are bad for many things in a PC too. Many believe BS hype and causes a lot of problems. At minimum most Spend a lot of $ for little to show. Most "silver" pastes are not Silver but Aluminum. Some are electrically conductive and if you get them on resistors etc can short them out. "Liquid Metal" types can can short parts and may have Gallium that "eats" Aluminum. (watch https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jeghGhVdt9s and many others.) Many fansinks still have some aluminum where meets the CPU...
I been dealing w/ heatsinks and fansinks of all types for decades... "Cheap" white and other HS grease are very good at this job. Can get from Digikey Mouser and many others in "big" tubes that cost far less then Arctic et al for same volume. Note: Store tube in a house and will last a long time. Store in a garage etc and tube/tub gets hot then some "oil" can separate/evaporate from "solids" parts making the grease to "spoil" or harden.
Dielectric "grease" works but not as good as HS grease. Permatex Brake Grease works very well but is a grease and can be hard to use. Fill small gaps but flows out so coats very thin to allow metal to metal contact. BG won't attack rubber plastic etc or run when hot. (I used it on my CPU and cooler then any HS grease. FX-8370 at max turbo runs 140-150°F all day. Most times I see 65-75°F and I only have a big fansink running at 950RPM. System Noise level is too low to read on RS sound meters. They min out at 50db. Think ~40-45db but need a better unit to be sure.)
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
In fact, one of distributor companies, MSD, advised one of their customers to drill 1/4" inch hole all the way around nearly at the top of cap for his 60's muscle car & noticed an improvement due to better ventilation.