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Sourmug's Decklid Vent Build ** 56K Warning!!** by Sourmug
Started on: 03-12-2006 03:40 AM
Replies: 680 (58271 views)
Last post by: Sourmug on 04-11-2012 11:28 PM
Fiero1Fan
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Report this Post05-24-2006 02:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero1FanClick Here to visit Fiero1Fan's HomePageClick Here to Email Fiero1FanSend a Private Message to Fiero1FanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Man I am going through withdrawl symptoms....................... (notice the nervous twitch?)

[This message has been edited by Fiero1Fan (edited 05-24-2006).]

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Comealongway
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Report this Post05-25-2006 11:53 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ComealongwayClick Here to Email ComealongwaySend a Private Message to ComealongwayEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Nolan, Where di you get your supplies, I'm going to embark on some body work aswell i was just curious as too where i could pick up supplies cheap.

Thanks, also how do you think you are going to apply your stage 2 mouldings?, i was thinking those self tapping screws along the top of the moulding, and the bottom i would clamp.

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Sourmug
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Report this Post05-25-2006 02:05 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SourmugSend a Private Message to SourmugEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Comealongway:

Nolan, Where di you get your supplies, I'm going to embark on some body work aswell i was just curious as too where i could pick up supplies cheap.

Thanks, also how do you think you are going to apply your stage 2 mouldings?, i was thinking those self tapping screws along the top of the moulding, and the bottom i would clamp.

Comealongway:

I purchased the body fillers and fiberglass from Partsource and the primer etc. from Calgary Autobody Supply which is by McKnight and 19th. Ave N.E.

It is my understanding that the stage two trim pieces can be attached using urethane adhesive (the stuff they use on windshields) as is bonds well and is flexible.


Fiero1Fan:

Sorry about the withdrawl, I'll see what I can do this week end.

Nolan

[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 05-27-2007).]

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Fiero1Fan
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My nervous twitch just got a little better!!

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Report this Post05-26-2006 01:05 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ComealongwayClick Here to Email ComealongwaySend a Private Message to ComealongwayEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

BTW nolan what engineering firm do you work in, I just started at the beginning of May at Fluor in electrical engineering. I just got out of SAIT so im pretty happy, now i can really spend some money on my car

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Sourmug
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Report this Post05-26-2006 11:48 AM Click Here to See the Profile for SourmugSend a Private Message to SourmugEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I'm an associate at Wiebe Forest Engineering, a consulting firm with Mechanical, Electrical and Structural disciplines. Here is a link to our website if you're interested:

http://www.wfe.ca/

Nolan

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Sourmug
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Report this Post05-27-2006 04:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SourmugSend a Private Message to SourmugEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Ok I have an update! Yes believe it or not it's a real live actual update. I have done some work on the fenders and the stage 2 scoops.

The stage 2 scoops come without any of the mounting holes drilled. You will have to use the stock pieces as a measuring template to mark out the locations on the stage 2 pieces.

Here is the upper edge of the stock panel:

And here is the new panel marked out:

Here is the lower edge of the stock panel:

And the new panel marked out:

I then used my drill press to drill out the holes:

The oval holes and the notches were then cut out using a dremmel tool with a cutoff disk:

[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 05-27-2007).]

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Sourmug
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Report this Post05-27-2006 04:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SourmugSend a Private Message to SourmugEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Some additional sanding and prep work was then done and the scoops and fenders were then cleaned for primering. Here are some shots after the primer was applied:




Nolan

[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 05-27-2007).]

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Awwwwww...........that feels good!!!!!!!!!

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Report this Post05-27-2006 08:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jscott1Send a Private Message to jscott1Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Sourmug:

OK! Well I had a minor set back. While cleaning my garage ,as I couldn't stand the dust and the clutter anymore, I killed my cheap POS oiless compressor.
See Nice and clean:


Nolan



Let me ask you this...how do you keep the garage so clean with all the sanding dust? My garage...whole house actually is covered in dust after I do any sanding. I can't stand it. How do you deal with it??

By the way the hood look awesome. I did my hood vent and it didn't come out that nice. I had to have it redone by a professional.

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Sourmug
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Report this Post05-27-2006 10:25 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SourmugSend a Private Message to SourmugEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Fiero1Fan:

I'm glad you feel better!

jscott1:

Thanks for the compliment! I know what you mean about the dust, it really does get everywhere. I'm sure that I will be finding it for years to come. I had to stop work and clean up as I just couldn't stand it anymore. It didn't get into the house though as the garage isn't attached.

Nolan

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Report this Post06-01-2006 06:56 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fiero-iwanClick Here to Email fiero-iwanSend a Private Message to fiero-iwanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

bump for the rest of the side scoop install, goos stuff her!

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Report this Post06-02-2006 03:33 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Bald DudeSend a Private Message to Bald DudeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

A simply amazing thread. Thanks for the inspiration and the updates.

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Comealongway
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Report this Post06-02-2006 11:02 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ComealongwayClick Here to Email ComealongwaySend a Private Message to ComealongwayEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

LOL i just attempted to put my stage 2 hood scoop on, and i don't think i used enough hardener, it was still tacky this morning. Providing it is dry does it matter how long the glass takes to cure, can i keep it. or even glass overtop of it?

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Sourmug
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Report this Post06-02-2006 04:14 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SourmugSend a Private Message to SourmugEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Wait and see if it sets up by this evening. If it doesn't you will likely need to remove it and clean it all up with acetone. I don't think that I would just glass over it. How sticky is it?

Thanks for all your comments everyone. Now that the nice weather is here I have been busy building and planting in our dirt pile of a yard. (Have to keep the spousal unit happy )

Edit: Comealongway do you have any pictures to post?
Nolan

[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 06-02-2006).]

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Comealongway
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Report this Post06-03-2006 07:12 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ComealongwayClick Here to Email ComealongwaySend a Private Message to ComealongwayEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Well it took me longer to clean it up then it did to actuatlly glass the part in. It looks alright, PIP will not install on my computer i have no idea why, runtime error number 13, any ideas?

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Report this Post06-05-2006 02:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ComealongwayClick Here to Email ComealongwaySend a Private Message to ComealongwayEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

What is the green stuff you are applying to fix the imprefections in the stage 2 side scoops, I have bondo glass that i plan to use to finish off my front hood vent, do you recommend using that?, also what product of urethane adhesive are you planning to use to adhere the fiberglass pieces from your stage 2 side scoops to your doors and fenders?

Thanks a lot and keep up the good work.

I'll try to provide pictures mayeb I'll use photobucket or something when i get home.

[This message has been edited by Comealongway (edited 06-05-2006).]

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Sourmug
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Report this Post06-05-2006 03:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SourmugSend a Private Message to SourmugEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

The "green stuff" is the Evercoat filler; I posted a picture on a previous page showing the can.

What ever product you decide to use make sure itĺs SMC compatible for your hood. It should indicate it on the container or the manufacturer's web site,

I have not spent much time investigating the urethane adhesive, I was going to go to Calgary Autobody Supplies to see what they would recommend.

Nolan

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Report this Post06-05-2006 06:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ComealongwayClick Here to Email ComealongwaySend a Private Message to ComealongwayEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/050393.html


HIs install is by far the nicest I've seen on all of the forums. I wonder what he used, I PM'ed a long time ago but i didn't get a reply.

[This message has been edited by Comealongway (edited 06-05-2006).]

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Report this Post06-08-2006 01:51 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ComealongwayClick Here to Email ComealongwaySend a Private Message to ComealongwayEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I have much newer pictures

http://s57.photobucket.com/albums/g203/4cylFiero/Body%20Work/?action=view¤t=DSC02371.jpg&slideshow=true&interval=3

[This message has been edited by Comealongway (edited 06-08-2006).]

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Sourmug
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Report this Post06-08-2006 02:17 AM Click Here to See the Profile for SourmugSend a Private Message to SourmugEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I had a look at your pictures. If I may offer some advice, the fiberglass will not stick to the painted (black) surfaces. You will need to remove all the black so that it has the SMC to stick to.

Nolan

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Report this Post06-08-2006 10:14 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ComealongwayClick Here to Email ComealongwaySend a Private Message to ComealongwayEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

In the picture it looks like it is bonded on the sides where the black is, but it is actually fed underneath, I'll take pictures later, I also glassed the top in some areas.

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Sourmug
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Report this Post06-10-2006 03:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SourmugSend a Private Message to SourmugEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

OK, I did a little investigation on the adhesive for the stage 2 door/fender strips.

The guys at the body shop supply store recommended that a urethane sealer/adhesive be used, the product that they have is Proform PF 224 and according to the tube it is:

- Recommended for applications that may be under stress and vibrations.
- It's a high density urethane sealer that eliminates shrinking often found in solvent and rubber based sealers. It can also be used as an adhesive for metal, plastic and fiberglass.
- Paintable in 30 minutes.
- Also sandable.

Here's a picture:


Nolan

[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 05-27-2007).]

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Report this Post06-13-2006 03:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ComealongwayClick Here to Email ComealongwaySend a Private Message to ComealongwayEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Nolan I've done a lot in the last few days here is my progress, i have no progress on the side scoops however. My battery box was cut and placed in a 10 x 10 hole, this keeps the battery higher up, i plan to face the terminals towards the back of the car, this way i could clear my 1 1/4 sway bar and also clear for 2 steering dampers. The decklid was cut and shaped slightly different to clear my timing chain cover on my swap, and my hood scoop just needs to be smoothed out.

http://s57.photobucket.com/albums/g203/4cylFiero/?action=viewĄt=DSC02386 .jpg&slideshow=true&interval=3

[This message has been edited by Comealongway (edited 06-13-2006).]

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Mr.Chipps
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Report this Post06-16-2006 08:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Mr.ChippsClick Here to Email Mr.ChippsSend a Private Message to Mr.ChippsEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Sourmug:

Off topic but my next, next, next project just arrived today!
Here are the pic's:

WOOT!
Nolan


Have you started this project yet? If so please let us have the link.
Thanks

[This message has been edited by Mr.Chipps (edited 06-16-2006).]

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Sourmug
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Report this Post06-16-2006 10:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SourmugSend a Private Message to SourmugEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

No, I haven't started the dash yet, still collecting parts. I will post a thread when it happens.

Comealongway:

It looks like you're making progress!!

Nolan

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Sourmug
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Report this Post06-17-2006 03:25 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SourmugSend a Private Message to SourmugEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I'm going to start doing the door strips for the stage two scoops. In order to make sure the strips are properly aligned with the scoop I needed to temporarily install the scoops in their proper locations. I also wanted to try and visualize how the whole car is going to look once it is finished so I placed the various panels and facias in position just to have a look.

Here is a before shot of the car prior to doing any body modifications except for removing the wing:

Here are some various shots of the car now:







I think the changes are quite subtle but I like it. What do you all think?

One thing I realized is that I'm going to need to do the hinge pins on the doors. They have a slight sag and the door molding doesn't line up with the quarter panel molding groove. Pretty soon I'm going to be able to start putting some things back together, Yay!!!

I do think that I need to do something to the front facia, not quite sure what yet though. Any suggestions?

Nolan

[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 05-27-2007).]

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RCR
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Report this Post06-17-2006 09:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RCRClick Here to Email RCRSend a Private Message to RCREdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Looking good Nolan. I have lots of ideas for the front, but nothing I could easily describe. I'm sure you'll come up with something.

Bob

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Report this Post06-18-2006 11:22 AM Click Here to See the Profile for FlyguyeddyClick Here to Email FlyguyeddySend a Private Message to FlyguyeddyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

this may have been asked before, but is it possible to use this vent on a notchback rear decklid?

thanks!

------------------
Brandon Edmonds

1996 Taurus SHO (my baby)
1986 Fiero (to be my street rocket)
1977 yamaha xs750-2D (in pieces right now, doesnt appear that it will be done for summer, unfortunately)
1987 Kawasaki Ninja 250R (learners bike)

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Report this Post06-18-2006 02:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Toaster_ManClick Here to Email Toaster_ManSend a Private Message to Toaster_ManEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I'm pretty sure you can. The two decklids are roughly the same width between the vents. I'm basing this off the fact that I took the recall weatherstrip off my notchback parts car and installed it on my GT driver and it all lined up the same.

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Sourmug
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Report this Post06-19-2006 12:13 AM Click Here to See the Profile for SourmugSend a Private Message to SourmugEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I would say that you could use it too. You may have to do some slight modifications but I don't know that for sure.

Nolan

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Report this Post06-26-2006 04:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ComealongwayClick Here to Email ComealongwaySend a Private Message to ComealongwayEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Hey Nolan where did you purchase your power wire from for your battery, I found autovalue for 3 dollars a foot 1AWG (copper), and out of Visions 3 dollars a foot for 4AWG (silver). Did you find anywhere cheaper, i tried princess auto to see it they maybe had some welding cables, but they where out, not sure if they had what i wanted anyways.

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Report this Post06-26-2006 05:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageClick Here to Email fierosoundSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Sourmug:

I do think that I need to do something to the front facia, not quite sure what yet though. Any suggestions?



Leave the fascia alone. The changes you've made are subtle and will enhance the car's original lines. Because the fascia is essentially the "face of the car" anything major done to it may push it up one notch to that "just one thing too many" category. There's many car owners (especially ricers) who didn't know when to stop and wound up wrecking the looks of their car.

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Sourmug
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Report this Post06-27-2006 12:45 AM Click Here to See the Profile for SourmugSend a Private Message to SourmugEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Hi Tony:

After some thought, I too have come to the conclusion that the front facia is fine as is. I also agree that it's quite easy to go too far. How was the car show by the way?
 
quote
Originally posted by Comealongway:

Hey Nolan where did you purchase your power wire from for your battery, I found autovalue for 3 dollars a foot 1AWG (copper), and out of Visions 3 dollars a foot for 4AWG (silver). Did you find anywhere cheaper, i tried princess auto to see it they maybe had some welding cables, but they where out, not sure if they had what i wanted anyways.



Comealongway:

I have not yet started the installation of the battery box so I have yet to do any research into the cables. It sounds like you have though, let me know what you decide to go with. Out of curiosity have you tried any of the welding supply shops in town to see what they carry?

Nolan

[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 05-27-2007).]

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Comealongway
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Report this Post06-27-2006 11:13 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ComealongwayClick Here to Email ComealongwaySend a Private Message to ComealongwayEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Noramco Wire adn Cable 291-2955

4AWG Welding Cable $5.60 a meter
2AWG Welding Cable $7.80 a meter

Princess Auto (250-1133) 4AWG-1AWG (out of Stock) 99cents - $2.99

So i think I'm goign to hit up Autovalue today adn at least get a Positive Lead

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Report this Post06-30-2006 12:00 AM Click Here to See the Profile for SourmugSend a Private Message to SourmugEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Comealongway:

Noramco Wire adn Cable 291-2955

4AWG Welding Cable $5.60 a meter
2AWG Welding Cable $7.80 a meter

Princess Auto (250-1133) 4AWG-1AWG (out of Stock) 99cents - $2.99

So i think I'm goign to hit up Autovalue today adn at least get a Positive Lead

Comealongway:

Thanks for the cable info! A + for you.

[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 05-27-2007).]

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Sourmug
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Report this Post06-30-2006 12:22 AM Click Here to See the Profile for SourmugSend a Private Message to SourmugEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I have been doing some work on my car as of late however, not on the body. I was thinking of starting a new thread but what the heck I will just continue to post in this one.

Lately i have been working on the suspension and I am finally at the point where I can start putting things back together for a change rather than just tearing stuff apart. Progress is being made!!!

You know, The only thing that was "wrong" with my car was that the clutch blew out. Here's the thread about it:
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...041015-2-049172.html
All I had to do was replace the clutch and I would have been good to go. But, NOOOO, maybe I'll do and engine swap once the cradle is out. But then I need to add some side scoops. Or change the deck lid, or the hood. Of course the suspension needs to be done, bigger brakes....

*Sigh* Anyways, here is the condition of the front suspension when I started.
The right side:


And the left side:


[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 05-27-2007).]

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Sourmug
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Report this Post06-30-2006 12:38 AM Click Here to See the Profile for SourmugSend a Private Message to SourmugEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

So let the demolition begin:



As you can see, lots of general clean up is required but over all the rust is minimal. In order to neutralize the rust I am using a product called Rust Mort (the green liquid). This product reacts with the rust rendering it inert and the color change from "rust" to "black" indicates that the process is complete. I clean the part off first and wire brush it to get rid of the really crusty chunks. After the Rust Mort is applied I usually let it sit overnight before I wash it off.


This stuff is an acid so make sure you wear eye protection and rubber gloves when using it.

[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 05-27-2007).]

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Report this Post06-30-2006 12:51 AM Click Here to See the Profile for SourmugSend a Private Message to SourmugEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

After the pieces are cleaned they are then given a prime coat.

And while all that was going on the wheel well itself was cleaned and painted.

And we of course had to have the ubiquitous "burning of the bushings" ritual/festival with great fire light and chanting in a circle as we burn the bejeebers out of the control arms. All this is necessarily done in secret to avoid angering the Eco-terrorists by producing great clouds of black acrid smoke which rise high into the sky as a blight upon the skyline of our fair city.

The control arms were then primed and painted with little ceremony:

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Report this Post06-30-2006 01:21 AM Click Here to See the Profile for SourmugSend a Private Message to SourmugEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I did have one hitch though. When I was removing the sway bar one of the bolts on the left side chassis bearing broke off almost flush with the underside of the space frame. There was a little bit sticking out but not enough that any of my tools could grab onto it. I did try welding a nut onto it by placing a nut over the bolt shaft and welding the nut to the bolt shaft through the hole in the nut. After about a dozen or so attempts ( ) at that point I gave up on that method. Welding upside down is not nearly so easy as "normal" welding. I could get it welded but not strong enough, it would just spin off.

OK, so then I tried to drill it out and use an easy out. No luck there. These bolts are hard little suckers and even though I did manage to get a strait pilot hole that was more or less centered but when I went to a larger bit I totally messed it up. *sigh*

The third method was to cut open the side of the frame where the bolt and interior nut are. Using a thin cutting disk in the angle grinder I cut out three sides of a square leaving the bottom attached and bent it out to expose the culprit. The remaining bolt shaft was protruding through the nut and I was able to weld a nut on it and extract it though the top of the nut. Sorry no pictures, I was too busy looking for thing to throw around the shop, I didn't want the camera to be one of them.

Once the bolt was out I hammered the opening flap back into place and welded it shut, primed and painted. Voila:


Thats it for tonight.
Nolan

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