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My 1988 LFX F40 build. by Daryl M
Started on: 01-02-2019 10:42 PM
Replies: 172 (3147 views)
Last post by: cyrus88 on 06-27-2019 04:26 AM
Daryl M
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Report this Post01-02-2019 10:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Daryl MClick Here to Email Daryl MSend a Private Message to Daryl MEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Since I finally have figured out how to post photos (I think), here is my progress so far. Most of these are mounting the engine/transmission to the cradle. The last few are the way I chose to get a VSS signal. Please be kind with comments. I'm old you know.
Daryl




















































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Rickady88GT
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Report this Post01-02-2019 10:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Rickady88GTClick Here to Email Rickady88GTSend a Private Message to Rickady88GTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I would love to get my hands on a swap like this to help out. I envy you for your project.
Keep posting pictures for people like me who just love to see this stuff.

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Daryl M
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Report this Post01-02-2019 10:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Daryl MClick Here to Email Daryl MSend a Private Message to Daryl MEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Ok, so the pictures are small. Don't know why, but I will figure it out so future updates will be bigger. Any suggestions are appreciated.
Daryl

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Rickady88GT
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Report this Post01-02-2019 11:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Rickady88GTClick Here to Email Rickady88GTSend a Private Message to Rickady88GTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Daryl M:

Ok, so the pictures are small. Don't know why, but I will figure it out so future updates will be bigger. Any suggestions are appreciated.
Daryl


I would recommend that you ether replace the entire forward section of the cradle were your engine and transmission mounts are. OR at a minimum "box it in" by welding a thin plate of sheet to the bottom side. This boxed in section will stiffen the cradle to help it deal with more power. That section is a weak link in the cradle, and any cuts and material removal weakens it even more.
The rear section has it's own issues, but is harder to replace.
I have even seen a few of these sections cracking at the transmission and motor mount hols. Those sections are double thickness and still cracked.

[This message has been edited by Rickady88GT (edited 01-02-2019).]

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Daryl M
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Report this Post01-02-2019 11:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Daryl MClick Here to Email Daryl MSend a Private Message to Daryl MEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Although I did not box in the area, I did reinforce the areas that looked weak. I also plan on fabricating a better top mount to replace the dog bone.

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wftb
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Report this Post01-03-2019 09:14 AM Click Here to See the Profile for wftbClick Here to Email wftbSend a Private Message to wftbEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Daryl M:

Ok, so the pictures are small. Don't know why, but I will figure it out so future updates will be bigger. Any suggestions are appreciated.
Daryl


I just click on a picture and it takes me to your hosting site with a full size pic.Works fine , great progress so far.

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Daryl M
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Report this Post01-03-2019 02:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Daryl MClick Here to Email Daryl MSend a Private Message to Daryl MEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Thanks. I haven't done anything car related in 20+ years. Retirement drives one to extremes I guess.

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Report this Post01-03-2019 07:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RaydarClick Here to Email RaydarSend a Private Message to RaydarEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Nice build, Daryl. I've been following on FB, and your posts on here too.

I was thinking about doing this swap, but I'm not able to fabricate.
Probably will end up doing a 3900 instead, since it's more of a bolt-in.

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Report this Post01-03-2019 10:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for pmbrunelleClick Here to Email pmbrunelleSend a Private Message to pmbrunelleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

It seems strange to go from working 5 days a week to stopping cold turkey... must be a shock.

My mom is doing a progressive retirement spanning a few years, so she's getting weaned off work slowly.

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Daryl M
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Report this Post01-06-2019 07:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Daryl MClick Here to Email Daryl MSend a Private Message to Daryl MEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post





Over the last few days I have been figuring out the exhaust. Wish I was a better welder, but I am getting better.

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Daryl M
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Report this Post01-12-2019 01:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Daryl MClick Here to Email Daryl MSend a Private Message to Daryl MEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

fallout new vegas all legendary creatures

The exhaust is coming together. To get it to go where I want it I may have to shrink the bottom of the trunk a bit, but the plan is to keep the exhaust low and back in an attempt to get heat out of the engine compartment.

[This message has been edited by Daryl M (edited 01-12-2019).]

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Rickady88GT
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Report this Post01-12-2019 09:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Rickady88GTClick Here to Email Rickady88GTSend a Private Message to Rickady88GTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Daryl M:

fallout new vegas all legendary creatures

The exhaust is coming together. To get it to go where I want it I may have to shrink the bottom of the trunk a bit, but the plan is to keep the exhaust low and back in an attempt to get heat out of the engine compartment.


Just food for thought, I do not even have a muffler on my LS4 swap. I would see how it sounds and look into options before I cut out my trunk. That looks like a huge muffler, so maybe something else could save your trunk?

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Daryl M
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Report this Post01-13-2019 02:35 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Daryl MClick Here to Email Daryl MSend a Private Message to Daryl MEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Rickady88GT, I get where you are coming from, but I really don't mind loosing the bottom 3-4inches of trunk if I have a car I can have a conversation in and listen to the radio.
Daryl

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Rickady88GT
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Report this Post01-13-2019 12:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Rickady88GTClick Here to Email Rickady88GTSend a Private Message to Rickady88GTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Daryl M:

Rickady88GT, I get where you are coming from, but I really don't mind loosing the bottom 3-4inches of trunk if I have a car I can have a conversation in and listen to the radio.
Daryl


LOL, OK I get it. But it is not as bad as it sounds. I have Corvette C5 resonated tips. They are not a muffler, but do calm it down. My LS4 used to set off car alarms in a parking lot when I started it. Yes that was a bit much, but I never got pulled over for sound ordinance enfractions because it only got loud at above half throttle. The car would start with a computer controlled blip of the throttle that would get a low frequency boom,.car alarms beware. BUT it does not do that any more. I added a small glass pack to each of the tips. This was made up of a single 12" glass pack that I cut in half, and welded directly to the back side of the tips. Basically I put a very small muffler in between the rear tire and the rear bumper in a void that seems perfect for a small muffler. Now the car is calm. But part of the reason it is so calm is a stock tune, cam and cats. If I were to got crazy with mods.......it would be loud.
I recommend at least trying it or looking into it before you cut out your trunk.

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Will
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Report this Post01-13-2019 01:47 PM Click Here to See the Profile for WillClick Here to Email WillSend a Private Message to WillEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I have an X-pipe and dual cats on my Northstar car. It's not Cadillac quiet by any stretch, but still conversable inside.

Your powertrain looks high on the cradle... maybe it's a trick of perspective, but it looks like the bottom of your oil pan is 3" or so above the bottom of the cradle. Is that to avoid additional cradle surgery for the bosses that would hit the forward crossmember or does the F40 transmission hit the left side rail if the try to go lower?

[This message has been edited by Will (edited 01-13-2019).]

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Daryl M
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Report this Post01-14-2019 11:08 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Daryl MClick Here to Email Daryl MSend a Private Message to Daryl MEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Yes, it would be able to go about 1.5" lower with cradle surgery to clear the F40, but I didn't see the point.

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Report this Post01-14-2019 05:21 PM Click Here to See the Profile for WillClick Here to Email WillSend a Private Message to WillEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

What muffler is that? If the internal configuration works, it might be easier to make the upper left connection the front bank inlet.

Does the 3.6 have a particularly shallow oil pan? I don't think I'd read that other engines could go lower when installed as low as they could be with an F40.

Edit: Food for thought on exhaust design: http://www.fiero.nl/forum/F.../000121-17.html#p660
X-pipe and dual cats fit WITHOUT cutting the trunk. Many tubing donuts were sacrificed to bring that to life.

[This message has been edited by Will (edited 01-14-2019).]

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Report this Post01-14-2019 06:52 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Rickady88GTClick Here to Email Rickady88GTSend a Private Message to Rickady88GTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Daryl M:

Yes, it would be able to go about 1.5" lower with cradle surgery to clear the F40, but I didn't see the point.


Usually the issue is with deck lid clearance. You either cut and patch the deck lid or the cradle. That is, IF you run into clearance issues. I have had to cut a few deck lids for clearance issues.

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Report this Post01-14-2019 07:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for olejoedadClick Here to Email olejoedadSend a Private Message to olejoedadEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Not only decklid clearance, but you need to keep the center of gravity as low as possible.
Yes, 1 1/2" makes a difference!
Bottom of the pan should be on the same plane as the bottom of the cradle side rails, if at all possible.

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Daryl M
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Report this Post01-14-2019 10:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Daryl MClick Here to Email Daryl MSend a Private Message to Daryl MEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

The way it sits now, I have about 7/8" from the bottom of the oil pan to the bottom of the cradle. I had not actually measured before. Guess it isn't as bad as it looks.
As far as keeping weight low, I think I am doing better than many swaps that have cast iron block and heads.

[This message has been edited by Daryl M (edited 01-14-2019).]

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Daryl M
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Report this Post01-17-2019 02:43 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Daryl MClick Here to Email Daryl MSend a Private Message to Daryl MEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post



Does anyone know what these wires are? This is the AC/C compressor from my donor car (2013 Impala LFX engine). Two wires.
Thanks
Daryl

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wftb
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Report this Post01-17-2019 07:26 AM Click Here to See the Profile for wftbClick Here to Email wftbSend a Private Message to wftbEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

If those are the only wires going to the compresser, they would have to be the power feed.

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Report this Post01-17-2019 11:13 AM Click Here to See the Profile for WillClick Here to Email WillSend a Private Message to WillEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Compressor clutch connectors are usually next to the pulley. If the compressor clutch connector is elsewhere, this would be a pressure transducer. If this is the only connector on the compressor then, as noted above, it has to be the compressor clutch.

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Daryl M
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Report this Post01-17-2019 09:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Daryl MClick Here to Email Daryl MSend a Private Message to Daryl MEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

It is not the compressor clutch. The pressure sensor supposedly has 3 wires. This has two. I've found an entry in Rockauto's listing for an refrigerant temperature sensor, but I can't find a photo of it. Just looking for someone that knows for sure. Thanks.

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Report this Post01-18-2019 12:30 AM Click Here to See the Profile for msweldonClick Here to Email msweldonSend a Private Message to msweldonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I've got the FSM for the XTS with LFX and LF3.. let me see if it uses the same compressor and if so find out what those wires are....


What color are the wires coming from the harness to the connector?


What other color wires are going into the compressor?

[This message has been edited by msweldon (edited 01-18-2019).]

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Daryl M
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Report this Post01-18-2019 03:07 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Daryl MClick Here to Email Daryl MSend a Private Message to Daryl MEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

According to the Rock Auto site the XTS and Impala don't use the same compressor until 2017 model year. I won't be able to check wire colors for a few days, but I will do it when I can.

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Report this Post01-18-2019 11:26 AM Click Here to See the Profile for msweldonClick Here to Email msweldonSend a Private Message to msweldonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Yep... I quickly found that out as well.... but it sure looks like an AC variable displacement solenoid valve especially given it relative location to the refrigerant lines. As Will asked, is there also another set of wires coming out of the compressor?

[This message has been edited by msweldon (edited 01-18-2019).]

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Daryl M
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Report this Post01-18-2019 01:46 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Daryl MClick Here to Email Daryl MSend a Private Message to Daryl MEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

The clutch has wires going to it, but these are the only wires that actually connect to the compressor. Do you know how the variable servo works? How many wires go to that type of servo?

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Report this Post01-18-2019 03:58 PM Click Here to See the Profile for msweldonClick Here to Email msweldonSend a Private Message to msweldonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I'm not an expert on VDC's by far and these to links will give you far better explanations than I could give..

https://axleaddict.com/auto...lacement-Compressors
and

https://axleaddict.com/auto...r/vdcadjustorconvert

the older are diaphragm controlled and the newer are electronically controlled through PWM... no idea which yours or the one on mine are yet... probably electronic however given the late model's they are..

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Daryl M
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Report this Post01-18-2019 11:47 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Daryl MClick Here to Email Daryl MSend a Private Message to Daryl MEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

MS Weldon in, thanks for the info. This will help allot.

[This message has been edited by Daryl M (edited 01-19-2019).]

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Daryl M
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Report this Post01-20-2019 02:46 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Daryl MClick Here to Email Daryl MSend a Private Message to Daryl MEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I just removed and modified the variable displacement control servo, so now my A/C compressor should be no longer variable.

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Daryl M
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Report this Post01-20-2019 06:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Daryl MClick Here to Email Daryl MSend a Private Message to Daryl MEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post






According to the instructions I was to solder the opening on the end closed.

[This message has been edited by Daryl M (edited 01-20-2019).]

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Daryl M
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Report this Post01-22-2019 03:05 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Daryl MClick Here to Email Daryl MSend a Private Message to Daryl MEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post




Fitting brake mods today.

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Daryl M
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Report this Post01-22-2019 03:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Daryl MClick Here to Email Daryl MSend a Private Message to Daryl MEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post




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Report this Post01-22-2019 03:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Daryl MClick Here to Email Daryl MSend a Private Message to Daryl MEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post


I set up this up compensating for proper ride height just to look at axle angles and such. Anyone see anything I should look at? This is the first swap I've done so don't be shy.

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Report this Post01-22-2019 05:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for WillClick Here to Email WillSend a Private Message to WillEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

What axles are you using again?

If the combo hasn't been tried before, you may want to cycle the suspension through its full range of motion to make sure you don't run out of inner CV joint plunge depth... in either direction.
Although that will be difficult to verify without the upper strut attachment in place.

[This message has been edited by Will (edited 01-22-2019).]

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Daryl M
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Report this Post01-22-2019 06:25 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Daryl MClick Here to Email Daryl MSend a Private Message to Daryl MEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Will, already checked for that. Kept the hub face perpendicular to the floor. Moved through the range of motion without moving too far in or out. I think I am OK there, but thanks for the suggestion. That would be a problem if missed.

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Report this Post01-22-2019 06:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Will:

What axles are you using again?

If the combo hasn't been tried before, you may want to cycle the suspension through its full range of motion to make sure you don't run out of inner CV joint plunge depth... in either direction.
Although that will be difficult to verify without the upper strut attachment in place.



Even if the axle setup has been used before, placement of transmission could be different, so it is always good to cycle and verify no binding or over extension. Ideally I like to do this with the tripot boots removed. To do this, install the drivetrain with the suspension, but leave the springs off the struts. Then you can raise and lower the suspension while turning the wheel bearing by hand.

Here is a sample picture of verifying this on the driver side.


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Report this Post01-22-2019 08:07 PM Click Here to See the Profile for pmbrunelleClick Here to Email pmbrunelleSend a Private Message to pmbrunelleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Will:
Although that will be difficult to verify without the upper strut attachment in place.


Maybe Daryl needs to put the engine + cradle into the car to perform this verification.

I as progress in my own engine build (not even a swap), I'm arriving at the conclusion that I will need to temporarily install and then remove the engine + cradle a few times, just to take measurements and see how things are fitting.

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Rickady88GT
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Report this Post01-22-2019 09:52 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Rickady88GTClick Here to Email Rickady88GTSend a Private Message to Rickady88GTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by pmbrunelle:


Maybe Daryl needs to put the engine + cradle into the car to perform this verification.

I as progress in my own engine build (not even a swap), I'm arriving at the conclusion that I will need to temporarily install and then remove the engine + cradle a few times, just to take measurements and see how things are fitting.

This is true. There is no way you could get an accurate measurement on the axle length/tolerance. As has been said, take the springs off of the struts and install the drive train and entire suspension. Then lift the suspension up all the way to the bump stop and turn the wheel hub the entire time as you lift the suspension. I used a floor jack and from full droop to bump stop, check many times that no binding grinding or (in the case of a short axle) make sure it does not fall out of the tripot. Do this several times on each side. And it is great advice to have the boots off aswell.
My engine swaps went in and out easily a dozen times checking for this or that.

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