I will have to put this swap off untill Sept. I have vacation coming up and I need to focus on that. When I get back I think I have about 5 days left untill it is in the Fiero and running. I still have the wiring harness, exhaust, some painting and polishing on the IDI cover, and misc mods to the Fiero.
I did check the gears in the trans and counted the rotations and figured out what gears I have.
I have the 1991 1st 3.77 2nd 2.19 3rd 1.38 4th 1.03 5th 0.81 Axle 3.61
With these gears it is about the same as the 3.94FDR for 1st, 2nd and 5th and gives me better MPG for 3rd and 4th. So it should still be quick off the line and good MPG at cruise. And a max trans speed of about 190MPH @ 7400RPM, not that I have any intention of ever going that fast.
It has been slow getting back into this swap. I have been doing misc work on the IDI cover, and on the wire harness. But to do any more on the harness I need the engine on the cradle so I can see how much length of wire(s) I need. So today I did some work on the transmission so I could get it all bolted together.
I started with hitting the flywheel and pressure plate with the DA sander to freshen up the finish and knock all the crap off the surface.
And mounted to the engine.
Next I found that the fork that moves the release bearing did not move as per my liking. It had few catches as it moved back and forth, then found one of the forks was a bit bent. (This is the trans that had the broke clutch, not sure if it matters) but I decided to swap out the fork as I had others.
The top bearing did not come out too well.
It should look like this. Another great thing from the Quad 4 line, it uses needle bearings instead of the bronze one like Fiero Getrags do.
The bottom one also has needle bearings too.
I wanted to get out the old grease and rust from the bearings, so I used some rubbing alcohol and let it sit and kept flushing it out untill it was clean.
The fork I installed.
The transmission bolted to the engine.
The Quad has a bellhousing thats bolts to the oil pan for extra support, it uses spacers to connect it to the pan.
The cradle all waiting for the engine and transmission.
And the engine and transmission mounted to the cradle.
Here are some more pics of how the IDI was modded to fit.
4 of the cam cover bolts had studs welded to the top of them.
To fit the studs the holes on the IDI cover had to be ovaled a bit. Then underneath the cover where the bolts go through it had to be ground down to accommodate the thickness of the bolt heads. And the post that sticks up was cut off.
I sanded flat the half ring to give a better contact area for heat transfer from the ICM module that is now on this side of the cover. I will add a spacer between the coil pack and the ICM to hold it against the cover to transfer heat.
The IDI cover is now done and ready to get the coil pack and go in.
But, I found this one on the Quad 4 I stripped years ago. It has a schrader valve, Bonus.
The fuel rail it was on.
Since I don't want the lines comming out in the stock location, I had to get a new line and bend it to where I want. I pulled this off of a K5 blazer, but most GM lines should work as they are mostly all the same size.
The end has to have a flare on it like the stock line. Stock on top, new one on the bottom.
The flare is a little smaller, so the o-ring may come off, but I will adress that later.
I found useing a tube bender to bend line, the line can pull and slip then kink. So I used a flaring tool to hold the line against the bender and it worked great, I also used some WD-40 on the bender so it all would slide easy.
I got the fuel lines to come out where the stock non 84 lines run. (84s run on the other side of the engine)
And this is where my camera battery died. I will get more pics later of the lines.
[This message has been edited by sardonyx247 (edited 10-07-2012).]
With the tube with the smaller flare, the perfect solution presented itself. The fuel rail that has the schrader valve, uses a hard plastic o-ring like spacer behind the o-ring. So the flare catches it nicely and holds in the o-ring, problem solved.
How the fuel lines came out.
To join the Fiero lines to the Quad4 lines I used compression fittings, like so and the sizes.
The final placement of the lines.
[This message has been edited by sardonyx247 (edited 10-08-2012).]
I had to make sure the fuel injectors worked and were flow matched to each other. So I hooked up the fuel rail to our injector tester. It has a fuel pump with filter, return line, and injector connector on a switch.
I ran gas and injector cleaner through the injectors, they were pretty cloged to start. I ran it through untill I got a good flow out of them.
Since I had it all hooked up, I decided to leave it all like this, when I went camping for a week. I wanted to make sure all the gummed up residue was cleaned out. Thus the lack of updates to this thread for a bit. When I got back I tested the fuel pressure regulator. I used a pressure gauge and a vacume pump.
I then weighed the output of each injector, to make sure they all flowed the same.
Here is what I did for the ICM to help it fit on the backwards cover.
First of all I got a nice black IDI, instead of the other 5 white ones I have.
I added heat sink grease to the IDI cover where the ICM makes contact with it.
Then I made a spacer to hold the ICM to the IDI cover. I used a piece of conveyor belt wrapped in 3 layers of rubber from an old tube, glued all together.
It slides in between the coil cover and the ICM to hold it tight against the IDI cover.
With it in place.
I have been really busy lately and not enough time to work on it. I have been working on the harness when I find some time. I've had to remove all the 84 stuff, convert it to an 87, fix some things in the harness, upgrade some wires to what I want, and add a fuel pump hot wire kit.
I got the wiring harness all soldered up last night. I still have to put loom on it and tape it all up. I will get pics tomorrow. I was able to add a fuel pump hotwire kit(so to speak) into the harness. Now I have a good gauge wire feeding the fuel pump relay off of a fused connection by the battery. Doing so I was able to eliminate about 16 ft of small gauge wire, and now I have an extra fused ign wire at the C203 if I ever want to add something in the cab. I still want need to figure out a good cable system for the alt and battery. I want/need good power system in this Fiero for the stereo/amps. I allready have a 4 gauge going to my amps from the battery and a huge ground strap, but the alt wire needs more. (the one in my GT allready gets hot just at idle, I need to upgrade that one too)
I labeled each wire to where it goes as I unpinned the 84 C500 And I measured a piece of wood and clamped it to the cradle dolly and marked it where the C500 is and screwed on a stock power block.
Where I put the grounds.
Almost ready for loom, I have to shorten about a half a dozen wires.
. . . .
Then I got distracted by the Thunderbirds practicing over the shop today, for the upcoming air show, so I got a few pics. We see this almost everyday over the shop/club here, I know not Fiero related, but I thought I would share.
Four in tight formation.
This one was coming in like for a landing but nose pointed up and instead of landing, he took off again. coming in real slow sideways.
And this was is a little blury but he was going straight up.
The air show this weekend should be great. Nothing like working on a Fiero with a dog fight over your head.