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JohnWPB 1986 GT Fastback worklog by JohnWPB
Started on: 12-03-2010 12:28 AM
Replies: 1092 (42267 views)
Last post by: tshark on 08-26-2018 12:20 PM
FieroStore
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Report this Post02-15-2018 08:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FieroStoreClick Here to visit FieroStore's HomePageClick Here to Email FieroStoreSend a Private Message to FieroStoreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by JohnWPB:
The Fiero store has them for $27, she just happened to have an orphaned single line in the stock room. The shipping is $15 for standard shipping. 2 day shipping would be $28! I LOVE the Fiero Store, and am so happy they are around, but what gives with the shipping charges!


Very sorry for the confusion, she didn't know that the brake line could ship in a padded flat rate Priority envelope (2-3 day service) for $7.25. If you would like to call us back, we will be happy to give you the lower rate.

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JohnWPB
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Report this Post02-16-2018 08:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JohnWPBClick Here to visit JohnWPB's HomePageSend a Private Message to JohnWPBEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by FieroStore:


Very sorry for the confusion, she didn't know that the brake line could ship in a padded flat rate Priority envelope (2-3 day service) for $7.25. If you would like to call us back, we will be happy to give you the lower rate.


Thank you or explaining. I have a new brake line now, and no longer need one. I will definitely use the Fiero Store in the future when I need something!


So now I have Grand AM calipers on all 4 corners, 4 new brake lines, my 3rd master cylinder (Latest is a brand new S-10 master cylinder) new brake pads all around, and a new brake booster. After replacing the line We bled, and bled, and bled, and bled the lines on all 4 corners, no air bubbles at all... Guess what! CRAPPY BRAKES! I swear to God I just want to drive this car at 100 MPH into a solid brick wall. I have replaced each and every component that there is in the entire braking system, other than the hard lines, that are in excellent condition.

I took it for a test drive around the neighbor hood. Got up to around 35 MPH and slammed the brakes on as hard as I could press with my foot, pulling up on the steering wheel for leverage. The car came to a gradual stop. About 3/4 of the way down with the pedal, the pedal "bumped", and and then continued to the floor.

It is honest to God, beyond my comprehension how one car can fight each and everything over and over and over again. Someone tell me, that if their brakes were weak, and they found a small hole in the line, that once repaired, it would fix the problem. That is the way things work. Not in this case. Same with the booster, everyone said it could be bad so I replaced it with an S-10 booster. Again, same with the master cylinder (replaced 3 times now) I had put 4 new Fiero calipers on all 4 corners when my right rear locked up a year and a half ago. Still the brakes were bad. I then swapped the front calipers to Grand AM, still not better, I have now replaced the rear with Grad AM and still the same crap. Over the course of time I have probably spent over $100 on brake fluid alone.


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fieroguru
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Report this Post02-17-2018 10:34 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The only purpose of this post is to be helpful in the long run...

**Fieros are 30+ years old, so they will have lots of issues to track down.
**Many of the parts you will purchase for the Fiero and most of the common engine swaps will have been sitting on a shelf somewhere for a decade or two, so every new part should be assumed bad, not assumed good (you saw this first hand with your ignition control module).
**Even though you go through a process (like bleeding brakes) 10 times and are not seeing air bubbles at the calipers, doesn't mean you have all the air out, it just means you are not seeing it at those locations. For example, if you didn't bench bleed the master cylinder before installing it, there could be air trapped inside the plunger of the master that will not be evacuated through normal on-car brake bleeding techniques. Also if you didn't crack the lines and bleed before and after the combination valve, air could be trapped there as well. Both of these situations would have no air bubbles at the calipers, but still air in the system, and have spongy brake pedal feel. You are only done with the process once you verify that the process fixed the symptom and passed the verification check.

The best way to navigate through these issues is with proper troubleshooting methods and techniques, not throwing parts at it that may or may not be good.

You have an issue with your brake system. It could be the booster, master cylinder, combination valve, brake lines, brake line connectors, brake hoses, calipers, or leaks (fluid leaks or pulling air back into the system on brake release)... Assume everything is bad until it has passed the verification test. Do not assume it is good simply because you replaced a part or did something to it.

Here is an online troubleshooting guide that is pretty detailed and covers most items. Brakes while simple in theory, are very complicated systems where everything needs to be right to function properly.
http://www.classicperform.c...rakeTroubleshoot.htm

Lastly, stay calm and never let the car win...
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wgpierce
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Report this Post03-02-2018 06:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for wgpierceSend a Private Message to wgpierceEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Have a look here, the bubble pictures:

http://web.archive.org/web/...ierocave/brakes3.htm
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Phirewire
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Report this Post03-04-2018 12:24 AM Click Here to See the Profile for PhirewireClick Here to Email PhirewireSend a Private Message to PhirewireEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Chime in on brake thing, how did you bleed all 4 brake lines? There is an order that should be followed also if the lines are new it is a pain in the a ass. I bleed my new clutch line with a vacuum bleeder and even after it had no bubbles still had an air pocket stuck. Took several attempts before it finally released. Stay positive.
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zmcdonal
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Report this Post03-06-2018 01:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for zmcdonalSend a Private Message to zmcdonalEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by JohnWPB:

I picked up the $10.00 syringe, as this seemed much more efficient than pushing the piston in the MC repeatedly while stabilizing the MC itself (Of all the tools I do have, a vise is not one of them).

No change at all in the brakes. I guess I will replace the front Grand AM brakes with the fresh shiny new red ones, paint up the old ones to match, and install them in the rear and see what happens.



So what exactly did you do with the syringe to bleed the master? You don't necessarily need a vice to do it, when I was back in college I needed to put a new master on my truck and I vice gripped it to a railing, got some strange looks, but it worked. Or bolt it on the car without the lines hooked up and have someone pressing the brake pedal.
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JohnWPB
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Report this Post03-07-2018 09:30 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JohnWPBClick Here to visit JohnWPB's HomePageSend a Private Message to JohnWPBEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Sorry for the delay in responding to messages here. I have been really busy with planning the Daytona show for the end of this month. So busy, I have not really done anything to my car. I have been designing graphics, and making shirts for the show. I have made around 30 shirts so far from designing the graphics, using a dye cutter to create the transfers, and heat pressing them onto the shirts. I have about 30 hours into these shirts already!

Here is a small sample of the shirts I have made so far:



Anyhow, I just wanted to post here to say thanks for the ideas and trouble shooting tips. I will get to following those hopefully here soon.

As far as bleeding the MC, I bench bled it following the instructions in this video:

[This message has been edited by JohnWPB (edited 03-07-2018).]

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JohnWPB
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Report this Post03-28-2018 05:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JohnWPBClick Here to visit JohnWPB's HomePageSend a Private Message to JohnWPBEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The Daytona show was this past weekend, and we had a great time! MANY thanks to the Fiero Store, Black Top Racing and Russ88Ttop for donating raffle and door prizes! Please support them in the same way they help to support the Fiero community!

I do not know why I did not think of this earlier...... I had etched some glasses and beer mugs with the Fiero logo to give out at the show. Just today while at work, i thought to myself, I could etch my sunroof glass! I just installed a new OEM glass from Pro Source a few days before the Daytona Show.

It is a pretty straight forward process, make a stencil, and apply the etching cream, and let it sit. I think it came out pretty good. It is just another one of those little touches to help customize / personalize the car.

[This message has been edited by JohnWPB (edited 03-29-2018).]

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Danyel
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Report this Post03-28-2018 08:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for DanyelClick Here to visit Danyel's HomePageSend a Private Message to DanyelEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
That’s friggin sharp lookin!!! If I had a glass roof I would want the same !!!

Danyel

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Black Widow Build Thread 2007 - 2014 Tylers Toy
My Low Profile Buckets for sale My LED Sidemarkers for sale

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longjonsilver
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Report this Post05-09-2018 08:32 AM Click Here to See the Profile for longjonsilverClick Here to visit longjonsilver's HomePageClick Here to Email longjonsilverSend a Private Message to longjonsilverEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
John: thanks for the link to your thread. i can feel your frustration from years of effort. i had an issue with the fuel pump filter in the gas tank. Took me forever to figure it out, and now that she is running well, i think that i will put the swap on hold and just enjoy the car. i will however, continue to read 3800 swap threads to learn as much as i can before i begin, when my current Iron Duke wears out.
blessings
jon

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I'm the original owner of a white ' 84 2M4 purchased Dec 10, 1983 from Pontiac. Always garaged, no rust, 4-wheel drifts are fun!

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87GT2M6
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Report this Post08-14-2018 11:21 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 87GT2M6Click Here to Email 87GT2M6Send a Private Message to 87GT2M6Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
John maybe you'll like this better


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JohnWPB
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Report this Post08-26-2018 11:31 AM Click Here to See the Profile for JohnWPBClick Here to visit JohnWPB's HomePageSend a Private Message to JohnWPBEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I posted this photo so someone I just met in Germany can see the interior of my car as we were talking about it

Here is the interior

[This message has been edited by JohnWPB (edited 08-26-2018).]

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tshark
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Report this Post08-26-2018 12:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tsharkSend a Private Message to tsharkEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You should use blue tinting on your sunroof.
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