Originally posted by Fiero2m4Fastback: I watched the last video of your problem. I'm no expert at all but that o2 reading looks way to flat. I suspect a wiring problem problem on the o2.
Noted and passed along (see below)
Originally posted by Danyel: John asked to be put back in GFC .... more traffic here than in CZ
Yes, very true. Traffic to the thread, when I would post updates and such was almost non existent. I asked Cliff if it would be ok to put it back in general chat, and Wala!
Ok, small update today.
I have had the car covered, as you can only imagine how frustrated I have been with it. Today is the first time I have started it in a couple months. A few days ago I heard about this retired guy that is a $pecialist in diagno$ing problems He stopped by this afternoon and hooked up a scanner to the car. He was bouncing between screens on the scanner and taking some notes. When I asked him the temperature, he had to go back like 8 screens and down to find it.
When he unhooked the scanner, I popped in my Bluetooth OBDII reader, and fired up Torque on the tablet. He was impressed with the customization of being able to put different information onto a single screen and watch everything interact.
One thing he noticed immediately on the tablet, was the pulse width. It was sitting around 2.4, of which he said was a little high but very tolerable for this "beefy engine". When we would advance the throttle quickly, the pulse width would drop to around 1.4. Basically cutting the fuel flow way back, as you are trying to accelerate. EXACTLY what has been the problem I have had, just not knowing why.
He gathered up his notes, readings and such, and is going home to hit the books and research and back-trace possible reasons. What we know, is the computer controls the pulse rate, the computer is seeing SOMETHING that is telling it to drop the pulse rate. The key is finding what is giving the computer the incorrect information, and telling it that it should drop the pulse rate.
Pretty cool John ... hope the person finds the problem and resolves it.. Here is a little article that describes the issues in your thread refers to Here and the solutions or tracking the exact problem.. I asked my mechanic he will get back to me..... regards Danyel
[This message has been edited by Danyel (edited 10-11-2017).]
Is the air cleaner still attached directly to the MAF or did you get a CAI on it?
No, it is connected to the Throttle body Yea, I have not installed a CAI as of yet.
I read through that page Danyel, and passed the info on to my mechanic as well to look over.
I just posted the below info in a new thread in General Chat, as not everyone is interested and reads my build thread. I will repost the info here just to keep everything I have done / am doing in one place.
Seems that the fuel pressure regulator that I purchased, has a blown diaphragm. Allowing fuel to get sucked through the vacuum line according to a mechanic I had here.
I need to get one ordered, and delivered ASAP . I need to get it installed before he returns to continue diagnostics. The Series III is a return-less fuel system.
Now that we know the fuel pressure regulator was setup wrong, which would cause your car to see higher than normal fuel pressure while driving, and the long term fuel trims (LTFT) would try to adjust for the excess fuel.
Your off-idle pulse width issue might be related to the current stored LTFT. As you come off of the idle, the ecm will automatically adjust for the LTFT (idle LTFT is different), so if the LTFT off idle said to reduce fuel by 15%, it would do it automatically do this as you entered the appropriate range.
Once you get the fuel pressure regulator replaced and plumbed correctly, I would reset all DTCs and reset the ecm to clear all the LTFTs.
Ok, Fuel pressure and flow are now at the very top of my list. I purchased a FPR this afternoon at NAPA. I have a mechanic friend of mine scheduled to come over at 5:15 tonight. I have known him for 25 years, and he is employed with the local School Board as a mechanic for the past 30 years. From dump trucks, dozers, fleet cars, buses... he knows his stuff.
First let me say that I am so sick of this car, and working on it, I do not want to lift a finger to do anything on it any longer. Therefore I am paying others to do the work, as I just want the car DONE!
Backstory: The specialist mechanic I had over determined that the fuel pressure regulator was hooked up completely wrong, and the diaphragm in it had ruptured. I found the proper way to hook it up in another thread, with an inline tee to hook it up properly with a return, and the vacuum line going to the port directly under the SC snout.
I have noticed transmission fluid on the ground under the Fiero lately, and booked a mechanic friend to come over and have a look. He saw that someone had put a hole in the pan, to drain the fluid, and plugged it up with a rubber plug. The plug was old, and starting to dry out. I ordered a gasket ($35.00), and a new pan ($45.00) on Amazon, and 6 quarts of transmission fluid ($46.00). The mechanic came over last night and changed the pan, and helped me hook up the new fuel regulator. It is hooked up correctly this time, with a proper return. It was late when he left, and the battery on the car was dead from having sat for 3 months. I put the charger on the battery and let it charge over night.
When I got home from work today, there is a nice puddle of transmission fluid under the car again. Another problem fixed, that is not fixed.
I started the car, and the fuel pressure regulator gauge was showing around 6 psi. (Factory setting I guess) I adjusted the hex screw, and set it at 53 psi, as is the factory psi for the L32 engine. I verified the pressure by attaching a gauge to the fuel rail. Both read exactly 53 psi. With the fuel pressure regulator now fixed, I excitedly hopped in, and took it around the block.
It was popping for a bit, then slightly smoothed out for almost 30 seconds.. About a half mile from the house, it stalled, and from that point on I had to keep my foot on the gas at every stop sign just to keep it running. I restrained myself with every ounce of strength in me not to attempt to get up to at least 40mph, and just wrap it around a tree once and for all. I am serious when I say that.... 100%. I did manage to get it home, and took 5 separate times of it stalling, and restarting it just to get it up my driveway that is on a VERY easy slope (5 degrees maybe).
There it now sits in the driveway again, just as the past 8 times that it was determined what the problem was, fixed the problem, and now it will run...... yea right.............
[This message has been edited by JohnWPB (edited 11-08-2017).]
So the mechanic just called and will be here in about 15 minutes. He has some scanning equipment and some other stuff he wants to use to try to figure out what is wrong.
This has been an insane journey to get this car running with the 2.8 properly, which never happened. It continues with a swap that now does not want to run correctly after being installed, diagnosed, inspected and checked out over and over again by no less than 4 mechanics. It really is something that is almost impossible to believe.....
John.... My 2 cents..... you been having these different issues from the beginning.... I would suspect this is from bad wiring ...... the common denominator with both engines having issues is they are and were BOTH connected to the same wiring... without a solid foundation (the wiring) you may be pursuing issues cause by MANY wiring problemes.... ya get one problem solved then the other issues pops up !!!
Good luck my friend !!! hope ya resolve the issues
[This message has been edited by Danyel (edited 11-19-2017).]