It's about time! I have seen your posts for months wanting someone to make a diffuser and I always wondered why you haven't made your own? Your work has always looked terrific! Definitely got skills
Thanks! I was hoping I could inspire someone to make a fiberglass one because my fiberglass skills are non-existant. However, Im making the cardboard mock up which I will then take to a shop that can bend and cut the shape out of aluminum. I'll paint it black and mount it I also have some plans for the exhaust tunnel areas.
I had a headlight problem the other day on my Formula. Headlight did not want to come up without some help. I had rebuilt the motor a few months ago so I was at a loss as to why. I was in a hurry and had a spare motor on the bench so we slapped in the spare. I opened up the "bad" motor to see what the problem was. When I rebuilt the motor, I used the bushings from the "help" section at AZ - the ones for the Ford power windows. I have used these several times in the past with no issues. Here's what I found when I took it apart.
So today I picked up another set of the "help" bushings and installed them. The ones in the pick are way softer than the ones I just picked up. Looks like I got a bad set of bushings. What are the odds? Anyway, wanted to pass it on.
I just rebuilt my right side headlight motor. It was going about 2/3 open and then stopping. When I took it apart I discovered that the gear had cracked and was binding when that side rotated around to the drive gear. First time I ever saw that.
Repaired my trunk popper. Had a wire that had fatigued where it goes through the rubber grommet into the decklid.
I'm still trying to figure out why my oil pressure sender or plug is causing the fuel pump to mysteriously run. After I parked the car last Saturday, I came back down a couple hours later to hear the fuel pump happily humming along. (It was NOT running when I stopped the car.) I opened the decklid and unplugged the sender connector. The pump immediately stopped. The really strange thing is that it is a brand new sender. I had replaced the old one because it was leaking oil into the connector and, strangely enough, had run the fuel pump until it killed my battery the previous week.
------------------ Raydar 88 4.9 Formula IMSA Fasback..........................88 3.4 coupe -soon to be something other than red
Sat in it for the first time in 3 weeks. Got a couple parts and started to tinker... A few years ago I picked up a cup holder. I set it in and it was a great fit. I'll be attaching it with velcro for now. I got it from the plant that made them, it was a reject but hard to tell, but I can't remember what vehicle it went into.
Fixed the rattling in my steering wheel. The plastic peice that held the rod and spring in place for the horn "unlocked" itself and was just moving around freely, making an aweful lot of noise on every bump. Now I get to listen to the squeeking of the axles for a little bit.
Just bought an 88 a little over 2 weeks ago. I don't have any pics (sorry) but this is what I've done so far
1) Replaced worn 88 Steering Wheel with new leather wrapped GT style from Dallas Custom Steering Wheel 2) Replaced the trunk lock 3) Replaced the headlight switch inc. trim 4) Replaced wipers 5) New brakes 6) Alignment 7) Plugs, Wires, Filters & Fluids 8) Replaced Pontiac Logos near sail panels 9) Lot's of knicky knacky things from "The Fiero Store" 10) Masked off car and sanded, primed & painted side mirrors
Spent the last 3 days sanding the entire car with 1000 grit sand paper (lots of oxidation & tree sap) and then polished with foam pad and polishing compound - whew... My arms are killing me! She's now SMOOOOTH as glass and I can see myself. The best part... gets great gas mileage (a clean car runs better)
Getting ready to replace:
1) Power Window Motors 2) Window Switches 3) Remove Cat Conv and replace with straight pipe 4) Replace Inner & Outer Tie Rods (basic front end rebuild) 5) Power Lock install 6) Power Trunk Install
Not sure if this went wrong or got fixed A/C blowing warm.
Evacuated and charged the A/C with our nifty automatic machine at work. No leaks so recharged it and It really blows cold air now. Must have had some mosture or air in the system from the R12-R134 conversion last summer.
I will post in what went wrong with your Fiero too. Jsut make sure all bases are covered.
was finally able to retract the piston into the new caliper. it compresses, not screws in like it looks. now to get back to working on the car. oh, and fixed that clinking noise. it was the compressor. came loose. D'oh!
Converted the interior back to stock. Really hate that ricer look of having all the trim painted. Here are some before and after shots. I have a new dash waiting, but I want to modify it for 6x9 speakers before I put it in. Still need to redo the steering wheel...and Fierfly doesn't get to keep my 6 ball shifter, she will have to order a 1 or 9 ball from Carver herself.
[This message has been edited by CowsPatoot (edited 09-02-2009).]
To be honest it wasn't today, but over the past week I got some work done. I fixed the wiring to the trunk light, it was sparking every time it moved as the plastic thingie that holds it in has broken off. Then the car wouldn't start, did some troubleshooting and found the previous owner had wired in a kill switch. The toggle was inside the lamp recess and ran to the coil which was flicked when I moved the wiring around. It was a half a**ed job using heater cord and a cheap plastic 110v toggle switch needless to say it all came out and the wiring repaired. I also put in an electronic air horn, I dare anyone to cut me off now
------------------ High speed, low drag
1987 Fiero GT auto 2005 Crown Victoria Police Interceptor
Got my exhaust system reinstalled on the car. It had been ripped loose & bent up while putting it on the flat bed trailer to haul it home after my wreck on I75. Late last night I got the rear control arm replaced it was bent @ a 45' angle. Spent the rest of the mornin in search of 4 used tires, which were no where to be found I may have to bite the bullet & buy new....."Honey, no eating for the next 2 weeks ." lol
------------------ Member of Suncoast Fieros of Tampa Bay [URL=http://photobucket.com/albums/y29/sk8rfiero/My%20Fieros/
Used ICE Clay Bar kit and Meguiar's NXT Wax. Spent four hours doing so. Also, a lesson learned---clay bar the entire car... amazing how much difference there was between the parts I skipped as it was getting dark outside. Went from super smooth to an abrupt halt.
I think that's about the end of the road with what I am going to do in trying to revive the original car paint. Although, the NXT has put a rather nice mirror finish and deepend the color a bit.
I also cleaned the engine bay a bit, but need some of the engine cleaner spray to finish it off.
Installed both rebuilt rear calipers. Now I have to wait for the wife to come home so I can bleed the brakes.
I installed a new driver side headlight and while I had it apart I replaced the gear with another nylon gear from Fiero Store. I'm tire of seeing it sit in my driveway paying insurance and not being able to drive it around. It's depressing,
I put the driver's side from knuckle back on and hand tightened the lug nuts on the wheel, essentially completing the suspension upgrade on that corner. I then moved on to the front passenger's side and disassembled everything and pulled off the control arms. The bushings are burned out and the sleeves are reasy to have the poly bushings pressed in. If luck is on my side I'll have everything put back together in the front with the new shocks and ball joints by noon tomorrow.
Then it's time to tackle my rear suspension upgrade in earnest.
Hooked up a wiring harness and mounting hardware to this 91 Bonneville radio that's going in the car in the morning. Got the radio for a buck and shipping (>$10). If it works I'll pick up an antenna adapter and I'll be happy!
put the new speed bleeder on the new LR caliper, bled it in 5 or so pumps. love those little buggers.
replaced the ebrake cable connector that shattered. yes, it actually shattered good temp fix till i replace the entire ebrake cable system.
ran the battery cable from the norms kit as far as i can get it till i can jack the front of the car up. now i need a long negative cable to run from the engine ground location to the battery. soon she shall be up and running again ready to get welded and tuned.