I just posted a few simple questions in the Technical section about an 88 drop-out with 3800sc/5 spd. The thing needs to start earning it's keep. Also I loosened 6 fasteners at the bell housing and decided it was too hot to work in the direct sunshine . Need to move the drop-out to the shade and start earlier or later in the day next time.
Carlisle coming up so things start breaking! This year it's the wiper system. All indicators were pulse board. (nope). Wiper switch stalk was next on the hit list as windshield washer did not spray. Switch replaced. (nope). WIper motor ordered Friday night was on my step this Sunday morning (Amazon Prime). Hopefully this fixes the problem.
Update ------Problem resolved - new (remanufactured) wiper motor.
[This message has been edited by steve308 (edited 06-18-2018).]
On my 87 GT changed out all ball joints/installed my spare steering rack that I rebuilt/replaced all the front control arm bushings( had the fun of having to cut the two front lower bolts out thanks to a sieges sleeve)/serviced my bearings and brakes/ replaced both rear wheel hubs/replaced drivers side cv shaft/starter/ filter/oil change and tightened down a rattling exhaust..... now tomorrow I just need to clean up and get an alignment done
Been putzing since a three year-old caliper decided to puke last week...
Thursday night I pulled it, took it to the store since it had a lifetime warranty. None in stock or at manufacturer (PSA: send your cores, dammit). Guy says to call manager in the AM.
Friday I call the store manager and get pissed because at first they wouldn't repair it locally and wanted to process it as a return/refund. Told them hell no, I'm not going to run with only three calipers with the lifetime warranty, and I'm not getting stuck with a core charge and no core to send to wherever I source a replacement caliper from. Hang up, about 10 minutes later the manager texts me, says they found a shop that will do it. Rush it down there after work so I will hopefully get it this week.
Now I'm waiting... did pads on the other side Saturday and today I put the front up to get ready for bleeding.
Started the 88 and let it run a bit. Have to get the windshield replaced then hopefully start driving it. I put the valve cover and air filter housing for my Indy in my other car so I can take it to work and sand blast it/paint it and install the new stickers on it.
I tested the accuracy of my fuel gauge today and determined that 1/8th of a tank means Empty. After coming to a sputtering stop at a rest area (lucky me), I was able to walk to a nearby gas station and procure a gallon of gas. Back on the road, we drove to Fredericksburg for the 4th of July Festival. There was a small, but diverse, number of cars at a little car show. I parked (in the shade, yay!) next to a 2008 Ford GT. The two distinct, rear engine GTs looked good together. I enjoyed watching people looking for the engine or saying, "I remember those". But, the best comment about my Fiero was from a young kid, who said, "Wow, that looks like an old Lamborghini!" I'll take it as a compliment.
the wife and i went to the main street cruise. hung out with the fontiac gents.nice cars and conversation.had some food and came home.. the car and i needed to get out. i was just so darn hot, 89 deg 99% humidity. glad the ac worksthe ride befor the car had a change to72,000 thousand miles.. runs like a top just wish the clutch worked as well. one of thease days it wll no longer go into gear and a call triple aaa, to save us. just not today . enjoy the summer have fun at the 35th in indy. please take pictures and post them please.my ambien has kicked in im out jim94
Started the long, arduous process of re-wiring. I'm starting with my 3800 harness first, making sure everything goes where it needs. Next week, I'll be digging into the body harness to make the two play nice. But that'll require taking down a bunch of interior/exterior bits first, so... pictures will be forthcoming in my build thread.
Well, not TODAY, but here's what I've done over the last month or so in preparation for the RFTH: - Flushed cooling system (old coolant looked better than expected) - Cleaned out leaves behind evaporator (wasn't as many as expected after 30 yrs of accumulation) - Cleaned out fins on evaporator - Lubed HVAC blower motor. It works MUCH better now. It even moves a decent amount of air on low. - Had heater core (which is still OEM) pressure tested (verifying that it's good) - Replaced thermostat housing cap & radiator cap - Fixed A/C system leak (there was a lot of work in that one little task) - Charged A/C system (IT WORKS NOW!!!) - Replaced belts. - Alt belt squealed, so I removed the belt, cleaned the belt and pulleys, re-installed and tightened belt using tension gauge. Squeal is gone. Mostly. - Changed oil - Replaced front speakers
Still not perfect, but I'm not afraid to drive it on a trip now.
Got my IMSA back on the road. All new brake lines, rotors, pads, calipers and master cylinder. New clutch slave and master. New plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor. New fuel filter and air filter. Cleaned the gas tank and replaced the pump. New shocks and struts and lowered the front a little bit. Changed the oil, cooling system flush with new radiator caps and thermostat. Charged the ac. Cleaned the interior and fixed the warped radio surround. I also put in a radio from a newer Pontiac that has a CD player. Been driving it daily for the last 2 weeks. Drives like a new car. Going to plasti dip it for now, I have a car kit and their sprayer. Will get a real paint job in the future. Going to install the new exhaust and tips tomorrow. Bumper is a dual outlet and the car still has the single outlet exhaust installed. Forgot that I also removed the purple tint from the rear window.
[This message has been edited by FieroMaster88 (edited 09-18-2018).]
When it rains, it pours... started out by replacing the fuel pump, the fuel dampener, then a belt issue arose, fixed that, then water pump is leaking I purchased a new one and ready to change that and last but not least changing out the a/c compressor which has gone bad as well. Oh and all this has happened pretty much all at once.
other things I'm doing or done during this down time: I took my carpet out and installed dynamat on drivers and passengers sides, was going to buy a new carpet but opted to clean and re-install the original carpet back in.
Once I have all together I will do my best to remember and edit this post with some pictures. These are just things that happen to 30plus yr old cars (not to mention with engine swaps) and is part of the maintenance process, so not complaining just thankful God has provided the means so I can slowly but surely get it back up and running.
Heres to many more Fieroing years! Pontiac we drive excitement!
Way to go FieroMaster88, looking great!
[This message has been edited by 87GT2M6 (edited 09-20-2018).]
Today ??? HA ! try the last 3 days. I've been trying my darndest to get a STUCK BOLT out of the rear suspension adjusting link. I got one side out, but on the other side the bolt that connects the link to the cradle must be rusted in there. I assume its rusted to the inner steel bushing sleeve of the rubber bushing inside the link. I've been soaking it with PB Blaster and trying to hammer it out. Sledge hammer that is. Now if that can't break it loose, what will? I have a cut off wheel tool from work that I may use to cut the bolt, but its real tight room wise, and I don't want to have to remove the spindle and other parts to access more room. I'll probably just encounter more stubborne bolts. Do you mean to tell me that a bolt can be rusted to a point that even a sledge hammer wont break it loose? And some think Fiero don't rust. UhUh…..
Just had the same issue with a lower front A arm suspension bolt, bolt rusted into the sleeve. There's a couple of things you can try that 'may' work although they didn't for me and IU had to cut it out. 1. Tighten the bolt/nut so that the side of the mount clamp the tube then use an wrench,socket or impact gun (whatever will fit in there) to try to turn the bolt while the mount clamps the tube. 2. If you can cut away some of the rubber you might be able to see the join in the sleeve where it's been rolld into a tube. Use a punch or something similar to open up the joint. You can then get some pb blaster in there and again, clamp the tube then try to rotate the bolt. 3. IF you've now got better access, try above with fire (torch) to heat up the sleeve. If you are outside maybe even burn out the rubber to get better access to the sleeve.
Like I say, none of the above worked for me and I had to cut it out.
------------------ Anything I might say is probably worth what you paid for it, so treat it accordingly!
Hey Dave....and anybody else who read this.....Yep, I just cut it out. Should have done this 3 days ago. I had a power cutoff wheel from work and cut the bolt out about half an hour ago. It may have taken me 3 minutes and the link came right out. thank the Lord and now I know. It was actually down right simple. I'm now gonna replace these rusty links with nice replacements that I bought a long time ago and stored away. somebody was selling rear 88 suspension parts and I jumped on the offer. smart move. I'm also gonna wire brush the entire wheel well area along with anything else rusty and get a fresh coat of rustoleum paint on there. This product has always given me excellent results for its price. Then off to the mountains of north Georgia with my new wife in my 88 Formula ! Zoom Zoom !