Hit my first snag on the coldside, I expected it though.
My BOV flange pipe is too long, the problem is that the only direction I have to go in is down, and with that long of a straightaway, it hits the trans mounts.
the plan right now, is to cut the pipe the width of a T bolt clamp past the flange, and cut the silicone much shorter too. The resulting assembly should be about the width of the two peices of silicone butted directly together as pictured below.
I still need to do a real test fit of the new layout to make sure it will fit as planned, but I think it should work fine.
Edit:
feeling around in the dark tells me it'll be really close, may need to clearance the transmission mount a little bit. it can be pretty close though, because the whole coldside will move with the engine
------------------ we're in desperate need of a little more religion to nurse your god-like point of view...
"finished" the wiring harness again, not to happy with the looks of it, oh well, I'll remake it later when I have more time to throw at it. tomorrow morning I'm going to do a systems check and make sure everything opperates as it should. hopefully I won't be changing a bunch of fuses...
not sure why, but every time I had made a harness, I had started at the sensors and worked my way to the PCM, it hit me as I was working on the harness last night, I'd be way better off doing the opposite. It's much easier to make 3-4 wires even and neat in one spot then it is to do 60+.
I got the material for my downpipe in, I got it about 30% complete,
I should be getting a whole heap of parts in on wednesday to finish up the exhaust.
------------------ we're in desperate need of a little more religion to nurse your god-like point of view...
not sure why, but every time I had made a harness, I had started at the sensors and worked my way to the PCM, it hit me as I was working on the harness last night, I'd be way better off doing the opposite. It's much easier to make 3-4 wires even and neat in one spot then it is to do 60+.
I work in bundles from each connection point to the PCM. If you put several neat bundles together, it should be minimal effort to keep the resulting trunk neat and tidy.
I work in bundles from each connection point to the PCM. If you put several neat bundles together, it should be minimal effort to keep the resulting trunk neat and tidy.
I'm gonna try to clean it up some here in a few, I plan to re-do it again anyways, there's too many splices in it for my tastes, even though they're all "liquid taped" and heat shrinked, I'd rather use dedicated runs.
the good news, it may look ugly, but nothing ohmed out over .2 ohms I read somewhere that it wasn't until 5 ohms that you start having problems.
------------------ we're in desperate need of a little more religion to nurse your god-like point of view...
ok, so far I've only had a few little speedbumps. but now, I've got a good one, key on engine off, I don't have a CEL, and the charge failure light doesn't stay on either.
grounding pin C on the C203 gets a bright CEL, so the bulb is good, that means the issue is somewhere between the C203 and the PCM. I'll have it fixed tonight.
------------------ we're in desperate need of a little more religion to nurse your god-like point of view...
still need to add fittings, and it's pretty big though, I might cut it down about 25% to make packaging a little easier.
got my AN fittings in for the fuel rails, so tomorrow I'll try to get the fuel system finished up. I'm glad they aren't red like int he picture on Marc's website, they appear to be clear anodized.
[This message has been edited by ericjon262 (edited 04-26-2013).]
mostly complete catch can, made almost entirely of scrap:
I also got the downpipe welded up, and the WG bump integrated. all that's left in the exhaust is the slashcut, Vband on the muffler, and the tailpipe. some of the welds look like crap, the fitup was less then ideal, but it's sealed, and strong, and won't be visable an
I also got the fuel system pretty much done, just needs to be tied back.
[This message has been edited by ericjon262 (edited 04-28-2013).]
got the engine back, finished the final assembly, installed the flywheel and clutch, installed a new HTOB, bled the master, bled the line, started bleeding the HTOB, and apparently, it's defective. there's a nice little puddle of hydraulic fluid dripping out from the bellhousing. never got a pedal at all... my machinist did great job on the engine, but he took way to damn long. if I had the engine back, even last week, I would have had time to deal with issues like this.
oh well, life happens. I'll get a new clutch (clutchnet stage 4) and HTOB(GM) on order before I leave tomorrow, and when I get back, I'll fix it.
it'll take a little longer then planned, but I'll make it happen still....
------------------ we're in desperate need of a little more religion to nurse your god-like point of view...
Did it over-extend or just plain defective? Why do you need a new clutch? Just because? Or did the hydraulic fluid contaminate the disc?
Sorry you ran out of time...
I think it was just plain defective, I haven't had a chance to take it apart to look, but it never really even firmed up before I noticed the dripping, and I imagine if it was over extended, it would have gotten firm, and then "popped"
once I got the turbo build rolling I realized the centerforce would be stretched to it's limits, I tried selling it to fund a new one, but no-body would buy it, so I figured I'd run it and if it held it held, if not then I'll have to fix it.
the car will still get done, there will just be a 9ish week delay. hopefully I'll get a few days off after boot camp/before school that I can use to get this thing fixed.
------------------ we're in desperate need of a little more religion to nurse your god-like point of view...
I think it was just plain defective, I haven't had a chance to take it apart to look, but it never really even firmed up before I noticed the dripping, and I imagine if it was over extended, it would have gotten firm, and then "popped"
once I got the turbo build rolling I realized the centerforce would be stretched to it's limits, I tried selling it to fund a new one, but no-body would buy it, so I figured I'd run it and if it held it held, if not then I'll have to fix it.
the car will still get done, there will just be a 9ish week delay. hopefully I'll get a few days off after boot camp/before school that I can use to get this thing fixed.
Man that sucks bad. Sorry to hear that. I am hoping i don't end up with the same issue. I am trying to figure out where to get an HTOB spacer for mine. I heard that spec sells them, but i went on their web site and could not see anything. troy
well guys, I'm out of boot camp, chilling in Charleston, SC. I'm going to try and have the car shipped up here so I can work on it on the weekends, hopefully I can make it happen.
------------------ we're in desperate need of a little more religion to nurse your god-like point of view...
I'm stuck up here in charleston until mid november, I'll get a week or so off to go home, where I will try to get the Fiero put together enough to trailer up here and start wrenching on again.
In the meantime, I bought a truck as a DD beater:
1970 GMC 1/2 ton
tired carbed 327(might be a 350, SPID says 350, casting number says 327)
Future plans include a vortec 4200 I6 and 4L65e out of a trailblazer or envoy.
how do I plan to do it?
I'm going to attempt to mount a envoy fuel sending unit in a 31 or 40 gal suburban gas tank under the bed for the fuel system, use a swap crossmember to mount the 4L65e, and the build engine mounts from there. because the 4200 is narrower then the old SBC, the plan is to make adapter mounts that go from the block to the SBC engine mounts on the frame.
Super accurate to scale model of what I mean by that:
instead of the engine mounts bolting directly to the block, they would bolt to extensions bolted to the block(green area)
the other major hurdle is the oil pan, the oil pan on the 4200 is a front sump pan, whereas almost everything else GM (including my truck) was designed for a rear sump. for this, I'll just weld up a new pan out of steel and use the vortec 3500(I5 in the colorado/canyon) oil pump pickup. the block is a deep skirt block, and the oil pan rail is flat all the way around, so it shouldn't be too terribly hard to pull off.
other then that, it's all wiring and parts selection. should make for a fun, unique, daily driver.
but that's another thread.
------------------ we're in desperate need of a little more religion to nurse your god-like point of view...
just been collecting parts, bought an aluminum flywheel, and going to pick up a new clutch and PP here real soon. need to have it shipped up here so it's not 600 miles away... I was going to pick it up and bring it home with my truck, but ran into a couple of issues when I was in town and didn't get a chance to make it happen.
Towed the car on a U haul trailer to Charleston, then I got told to go to Kings Bay GA, now, I'm here, the car is here, and the clutch is on order! time to get some work done!
well, I placed the order(acknowledged by a Spec employee via email) for my clutch 4 days ago, thinking that by now it would have left Spec and be on it's way to me,
this was 3 days ago...
quote
They ship in 24-48 hrs..this is a busy week given we are closed all next week. If not today, probably leaves tomorrow…
seeing as I hadn't heard anything from Spec, I called them up, and they don't have anything in their system on my order at all... now how is a order supposed to ship if it doesn't exist??? Guess who just lost a $600 sale.
so now, instead of a Spec, I'll be going with a Bully stage 4 Clutch. hopefully this order works out better...
Did ya ever manage to get a spacer from spec? I am going to make my own on the lathe tomorrow and see how it turns out. If i am not happy with it, I will be ordering a spacer from them myself. After a couple emails to them, someone finally got back to me with a part # and price! Part number N1774-.250 . $49.
Did ya ever manage to get a spacer from spec? I am going to make my own on the lathe tomorrow and see how it turns out. If i am not happy with it, I will be ordering a spacer from them myself. After a couple emails to them, someone finally got back to me with a part # and price! Part number N1774-.250 . $49.
no, I'm going to try something a little different. I'm going to run a cavalier clutch instead of a fiero clutch, and take measurements to make sure it'll work.
today, almost a month after placing the order with Spec clutch, they call me and want to talk about it... good job guys way to follow up on a sale... 3 weeks too late...
this came in about two weeks ago, just didn't get around to posting it yet.
never got a pedal at all... my machinist did great job on the engine, but he took way to damn long. if I had the engine back, even last week, I would have had time to deal with issues like this. 
