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The Turbo 3500 F23 swap by ericjon262
Started on: 10-03-2011 11:26 PM
Replies: 643 (24377 views)
Last post by: Will on 05-03-2021 08:52 AM
Will
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Report this Post04-30-2021 03:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for WillClick Here to Email WillSend a Private Message to WillEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by zkhennings:

And finally I plan to send my torque wrenches back to CDI for cal before I start bolting my motor back together as it has been a few years since they were checked.



Who's CDI? I've used Team Torque in North Dakota for a couple of mine.
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Report this Post04-30-2021 08:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for zkhenningsSend a Private Message to zkhenningsEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Will:


Who's CDI? I've used Team Torque in North Dakota for a couple of mine.


CDI is the manufacturer of SnapOn torque wrenches, or you can buy the CDI branded ones for less money. They calibrate for I think $44 a wrench unless they need to replace any parts. The price is dependent on the torque range though.

I don’t think I have any local small time calibration places near me, I asked our cal guy at work to quote me the recalibration of my torque wrenches and it was over $100 each so I figured I would ask the manufacturer. CDI may calibrate wrenches that are not CDI or SnapOn but I haven’t looked into it. Here is the link to the calibration site.
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ericjon262
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Report this Post04-30-2021 08:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by zkhennings:

Ah that blows. I was really hoping to see this finally get buttoned up. There are .002 oversized OD rod bearings for the LZ9, I would imagine for LX9 too. You could probably get the single rod bored out and run that bearing, but I think you would need to get the crank journal taken down so I don't know if that's worth it. Might be easiest to see if you can replace the single rod.

For what it is worth it is not very much money to have a machine shop verify all the clearances and make sure parts aren't twisted or out of spec. The machine shop I use will even measure my dirtbike cylinders for free and check them for straightness and out of round. Plastigage is another good tool to get a ballpark idea and just do a sanity check. And finally I plan to send my torque wrenches back to CDI for cal before I start bolting my motor back together as it has been a few years since they were checked.

That really sucks though I was very sad to see that this happened.



it's bummer, but it is what it is, if I had more time, I would fix it right now, but it will have to wait until I move. the worst part is not knowing definitively why it happened. At this point I'm looking for a new short block, it will be faster, and easier to swap in than to rebuild this one. and if I snag a different cam, I won't need valve reliefs either, which is another plus that expedites things. my biggest concern at the moment, is if the increased piston travel due to the failed bearing damaged the head, then my ported heads will either need to be repaired or replaced. that said, I measured for and cut valve reliefs without head gaskets, so there should be ~.035" more clearance than I cut. not sure what piston to deck looked like, I don't remember measuring it, the cap side of the bearing was about 1/2 way into the rod end, so hopefully it was enough to squeak by. I potentially have a line on another short block already, it's already on the other side of the country, so that's a plus right?

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"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."

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Will
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Report this Post05-03-2021 08:52 AM Click Here to See the Profile for WillClick Here to Email WillSend a Private Message to WillEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by zkhennings:


CDI is the manufacturer of SnapOn torque wrenches, or you can buy the CDI branded ones for less money. They calibrate for I think $44 a wrench unless they need to replace any parts. The price is dependent on the torque range though.

I don’t think I have any local small time calibration places near me, I asked our cal guy at work to quote me the recalibration of my torque wrenches and it was over $100 each so I figured I would ask the manufacturer. CDI may calibrate wrenches that are not CDI or SnapOn but I haven’t looked into it. Here is the link to the calibration site.


Awesome! Thanks!

I discovered that buying old/used/obsolete Snap-On torque "instruments" on eBay and having them calibrated is usually half or less the cost of buying a new instrument from Snap-On.
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