Stock axles. No wheel hop due to the track being prepped so good. I walked out on it and I almost lost my shoes.
I did some testing in the garage last week and my drivers side wheel will hop up and down badly Passenger side is fine. Did dome reading and got some kyb struts, which came in today. I have stock 88 struts on 275 # coil overs in the rear. I hope the new struts help.
I'm going to try to make it back to the strip one more time this season with the VGT working. It saddens me to see the speedometer just stop moving between shifts. It sure feels faster than the stock cam. Must be psychological, lol.
I was surprised that the headlights still came up at about 130. I'll just have to tape them down next time.
I used to worry that my headlights were going to tear off when they pop open at 110. Since yours stayed attached to the hood at 130, mine are good to go. Super video- thanks for sharing & of course - congrats on 10's!!!
[This message has been edited by DimeMachine (edited 10-14-2013).]
New struts are in and they passed the garage floor launch pad test. Drivers side strut was all oily and barely any rebound resistance. Axle should last longer now.
Out of curiosity for next time can you buy the struts without the spring perch so I don't have to cut them?
New struts are in and they passed the garage floor launch pad test. Drivers side strut was all oily and barely any rebound resistance. Axle should last longer now.
Out of curiosity for next time can you buy the struts without the spring perch so I don't have to cut them?
So for the past month or so i've been hearing this harmonic sound on decel. I thought it was an exhaust leak. A few weeks ago I pressurized my exhaust and fixed all the leaks and it make the same noise. I sort of just brushed it off. Then I noticed that it slowly started to make a clunking noise just like my getrag did in neutral and would go away when I pushed in the clutch. That clunking noise started to get louder. First thought was the input shaft bearing was getting worn out. I had some time today so I pulled the transmission out and found that my flywheel is cracked between the bolts all the way around. I'm positive that was the harmonic sound I was hearing. I wiggled the input shaft on the trans and it barely moves at all. I can feel it but its actually hard to see it actually move. Can anyone who has an F23 outside of the car grab the input shaft and see if there is any side to side movement. If I have time tomorrow I'll split the case and see how everything looks. If I can find an input shaft bearing i'll probably replace that too anyway.
Then the next question is. Do I pony up the cash for a Spec flywheel, $400 or just get a camaro one and machined again for < $175
I would like to get it back together soon because there is another autox a week from saturday.
Looking at this picture it looks like the input shaft was making contact with the inside of the crank. I wonder if it's from everything wobbling from the flywheel or if it is the input shaft bearing
It will be next week before I have the F23 separated from the engine, but I can measure the movement in the one I am working on (high mile unit).
For the power you are putting through it, I would run a billet steel flywheel or an aluminum one before putting a modified cast iron one back in. Remember, its spinning right behind your spine and it breaking apart at speed won't be a good day.
I think that the stronger flywheel bolts have left the flywheel as the weakest link, I don't see why another cast iron one would not crack in a similar manner. And upgrading to a stronger lighter flywheel with a replaceable friction surface will only increase your performance on the strip and autox and save costs when the friction surface is toast and normally it would be time for a new flywheel.
Originally posted by Justinbart: I had some time today so I pulled the transmission out and found that my flywheel is cracked between the bolts all the way around.
Looking at this picture it looks like the input shaft was making contact with the inside of the crank. I wonder if it's from everything wobbling from the flywheel or if it is the input shaft bearing
Yikes! I wouldn't mess around with another production based flywheel after that...
How far would the input shaft have to have moved to rub the inside of the crank pilot? That doesn't sound reasonable to me.
Out of curiosity for next time can you buy the struts without the spring perch so I don't have to cut them?
For ~$1200 each you can buy Koni motorsport generic struts... other high end manufacturers (Penske, Bilstein, AST/Moton, Olins, etc.) may have similar offerings.
Did you use OE bolt torque or a higher torque due to use of the ARP bolts? I'm curious because given the number of Fiero tranny failures attributed to shaft movement behind V8s without any flywheel failures characteristic to what you have, as to whether that had anything to do with it considering the crack running mostly under an area that can't flex much if at all due to bolt pressure.
The input shaft end I made ~.750 Crankshaft ID is .800 So it would have to move .025
I would expect you'd fail the shaft rather rapidly if you had .025 of eccentricity between input shaft and crank of if the input shaft was deflecting .025 regularly for any reason.
I learned something new while working on the F23 today... there isn't a cross shaft blocking access to the opposite side tripod. So when you do this again:
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Originally posted by Justinbart:
Just remove the axle from the other side and use a punch to knock the sheared off side out of the transmission.
With both tripods out, you can see right through the hole in the middle of the differential:
Originally posted by DimeMachine: I used to worry that my headlights were going to tear off when they pop open at 110. Since yours stayed attached to the hood at 130, mine are good to go. Super video- thanks for sharing & of course - congrats on 10's!!!
It's the headlight cover/door you have to worry about. Mine ripped off the assembly when the headlight came up. It flew out into a cornfield and I never did find it.
I forgot to update this. I ordered an aluminum flywheel from a vendor for $360. Spec drop shipped one to me. While I was bolting it on I got to thinking that I couldn't tell if it was "counter balanced" I asked a few people who had this flywheel and they said there was a very obvious weight bolted to the backside. I took it back off and there was nothing. I called spec, and had to send them some pictures. They don't know what happened but sent me another one and I need to return the neutrally balanced one. When I ordered the ARP bolts awhile back I got extras so I was able to put in all new bolts.
Everything is back to normal. No resonance vibration sound and no clunking. So good so far.
quote
I learned something new while working on the F23 today... there isn't a cross shaft blocking access to the opposite side tripod. So when you do this again:
My F23 diff does have pin going through the center. That was the plan originally. I removed the other axle and tried to punch it out but it was blocked.
Originally posted by fieroguru: I learned something new while working on the F23 today... there isn't a cross shaft blocking access to the opposite side tripod.
quote
Originally posted by Justinbart: My F23 diff does have pin going through the center.
Hmmm... I pulled the VSS sensor to take a look inside and this F23 has a limited slip!
I went back and read up some of the owners posts and he had the gears and input shaft cryo treated and the limited slip installed back in May of 2011. The transmission case was pretty filthy when it got here, so I didn't even think the thing had been opened up before.
[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 11-29-2013).]
Out of curiosity, what are you getting for gas mileage with your setup? Is it even comparable seeing as you are running E85 ( which I know requires more volume )? Just wondering what the very high hp 3800s get
I took advantage of the ZZP black friday sale and picked up an SFI balancer. After some looking around I guess the balancer could contribute to the cracking of my flywheel. I put it on last night and unless its just in my head, it feels smoother. I notice it most in the 2000-2500 rpm range. From ZZP.
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SFI dampers are designed to reduce crankshaft torsional vibration at high engine speeds. It is only safe to spin an L67/L32 to ~6300 rpm on a stock balancer. Going over that can cause bearing failure, flex plate failure and power loss due to harmonics.
I was taking it to higher RPM this past summer than I ever have before(6500-6800). I figured it couldn't hurt to get this balancer.
This is far from "low dollar" now! ------------------ Turbo3800E85F23 5spd spec5 10.91@133.1
[This message has been edited by Justinbart (edited 12-07-2013).]
Is the Flywheel indexed? I'm curious because it looks like you can mount the flywheel anyway you want, and if that's the case what is that huge weight for?
Is the Flywheel indexed? I'm curious because it looks like you can mount the flywheel anyway you want, and if that's the case what is that huge weight for?
Yes. There is one hole that doesn't look like the others. They are also not concentric. It will only bolt on one way.
What is a good turbo option for the 3800sc? If someone has a link the model they used it would be appreciated. I guess this is the way to go for big hp. I have a few mods done to my engine such as cam, sprockets and chain, ported intake, valves, springs, and retainers. What would i need to do to run around the 450 - 500hp mark?
Good grab on that balancer! I was trying to snag some parts and only managed a double roller timing chain for a different engine. Price paid for cutting a tree down in the mountains . What was the BF price on the balancer?
Mine is Lo budget too. That just has to do with my wallet. I'm at 13.1/101MPH right now stock except for a pulley and tune. I know I'll probably do more cuz these cars are like Lays Potato Chips.
Good grab on that balancer! I was trying to snag some parts and only managed a double roller timing chain for a different engine. Price paid for cutting a tree down in the mountains . What was the BF price on the balancer?
Just the end of the day 13% off. Not a big discount.
What is a good turbo option for the 3800sc? If someone has a link the model they used it would be appreciated. I guess this is the way to go for big hp. I have a few mods done to my engine such as cam, sprockets and chain, ported intake, valves, springs, and retainers. What would i need to do to run around the 450 - 500hp mark?
Any turbo will work really.. you need about 50lb/m worth of airflow to make that power.. anything from a 60-1 to a hx35 to a T88 will make that power.. some spool faster than others.
