Project will be 7 years old on Sunday.

Most people who bought new cars 7 years ago have traded them in by now.

Further modded the accelerator bracket.

[This message has been edited by 30+mpg (edited 04-24-2012).]

From this;



to this:


to this:

[This message has been edited by 30+mpg (edited 04-24-2012).]

A/C charge is down. I suspect a leaking clutch shaft seal in the compressor.

No prob, I'll swap it out for my spare HR6.

But first, a check of the spare reveals a seal leak also.

So, I replaced the seal.

Here's a shot of some of the tools I used, plus a spare seal.



Note the port block-off plate which allows one to pressure test the compressor after the clutch plate has been removed.

One tool not pictured is an electronic sniffer with an adjustable beep/sensitivity rate.

Now to jack up the car & swap compressors. A fun job.

Can ya come over this weekend and fix my AC? Texas isn't to far is it? Keep up the good work and with the pictures and posts.
-Joe

Changed oil, 4 qts Mobil 10W-30 + AC PF47 filter.

Engine is looking good!

You do some great work. Got yourself a good lookin Fiero there too.

Before I swapped compressors, I used some fluorescent dye & a UV led flashlight to see if I could fine the leak.



Note the green band of liquid where the body & end casting mate.
The green is the dye.

Using the UV light w/o the camera flash, the liquid appears as bright yellow.

Also, there is a similar, but smaller, leak on the opposite end of the compressor body.

The compressor doesn't have a Harrison sticker.

Instead it has a sticker with the name of the compressor rebuilder. They did a poor job of sealing.

[This message has been edited by 30+mpg (edited 05-19-2012).]

Right rear brake is dragging.

Time to relube the sliders.

Relubed the sliders on both rear wheels.

Check your wheels after a short drive.

If one feels hotter than the rest, dragging brakes. Time to lube the sliders.

Meanwhile, the spare HR6 compressor has bigger leaks in exactly the same place as the previous compressor, bummer.

Those large ring seals must be a longevity problem.

Sooooo, I bought a freshly re-manufactured compressor for an 88 Buick Park Ave off e-bay for $64 which includes shipping.

Went for a 20 minute drive in 90F+ degree weather. Vent thermometer read in the low 30's when controls were set to MAX.

quote Originally posted by 30+mpg: Installed a new battery. Strong cranking has returned.

Looks like the hot temps have fried the battery. 3 years on a WalMart Everstart 75-5S

I'm impressed that someone- anyone, has been able to keep a thread like this alive for so long. Thanks for sharing this all these years.

quote Originally posted by 30+mpg: Looks like the hot temps have fried the battery. 3 years on a WalMart Everstart 75-5S

Good news, sanded the terminal connections to the battery.

3 year old battery cranks great now.

Ignition lock cylinder made a loud click when the engine was switched off.

Then it would turn to IGN but not go to Start.

Looks like time to replace the lock cylinder

I put a new one in mine when I first brought it home to Texas. Not to bad of a job.
-Joe

New lock cylinder works perfectly.

Running strong.

Are you being overrun by all the bass fishermen practicing for the Bassmaster Classic?

Back in R'ville.

No problems.

I've had this car for 8 years now & the project has progressed to a use and maintain stage.

Burnt aroma. Using infared temp gun,

l r brake disc: 105F
Right rear disc: 305F

Sliders stuck, time to relube,

86138 ODO

new Altimax HP's on the front to replace the old touring TA's

205-60/15

Non-start due to no fuel pressure.
No relay click when ign is switched on.

Massaged wiring (a spaghetti pile) and restored relay function.

Starts normally now.

quote Originally posted by 30+mpg: Non-start due to no fuel pressure. No relay click when ign is switched on. Massaged wiring (a spaghetti pile) and restored relay function. Starts normally now.

Quit massaging your spaghetti in public...jus' sayin'

quote Originally posted by 92wastheyear: Quit massaging your spaghetti in public...jus' sayin'

Actually I did it in the dark privacy of my garage.

You want I should post a video on Youtube or something?

quote Originally posted by 30+mpg: A few squirts of this applied to the sliders O-rings fixed the problem, If they would only truly Sta-Lubed.

If only... try a different lubricant, maybe a thicker lubricant will hang around longer

still running strong?

L rear brake disc 250F
R rear Brake disc 96F

Time for more slider lube.

Relubed sliders.

9 years and stable.

Cool!


80 degrees F outside

[This message has been edited by 30+mpg (edited 05-27-2014).]

reading through the different pages, you said you disassembled and repaired the power window switch. How did you get it apart?. I tried taking one apart but the little stud that holds the spring broke.

You can try to JB Weld the stud in place.

3 discs 105 F

RR 349F anyone have a better slider lube?

Brakes fixed long ago.

Left headlight won't rise.

What was fix for the brake?