god poly is one hot, sticky, smelly mess. Kind of like a fat chick only worse. I hate it, i hate it, i hate it!!!!!! it better be worth it!

They are only for looks. I think you have to trim them to get them to fit. Do not take your rubbers off for these. The rubbers seal the dirt out better. If you don't to have them for the looks, then just pitch them.

quote Originally posted by 87antuzzi:Oh yeah! i also have a "treat" for you all following this thread. When I get the fiero in the garage I am going to TRY to get a rod to throw out of the engine (rock on gas pedal). Of course I will record it!!

Why?

quote Originally posted by aeffertz: Why?

Why not?

quote Originally posted by 87antuzzi: Why not?

Remember the big smelly mess you were just talking about? What do you think happens when you perforate the block?

Testing out the first hd video. Bushing on fire

New stuff thats getting rebuild and installed


Ignore the muffler

Fire


My dog blue enjoying the smell. (this dog is older than me. Im now 19)

The urethane ball joint / tie rod dust boots are meant as a replacement for the stock ones. But they don't fit that well, especially on the ball joints. If your existing ball joint / tie rod boots are OK, then don't waste your time with it.

Poly question. I just did one of the control arms. The lip on the poly goes on the outside of the arm correct? Also, i ran out of the teflon grease. Will black moly grease work?

Yes, the lip goes on the outside. I haven't tried moly grease, but see no reason why it wouldn't work.

BTW, your dog is 20 years old?! That's amazing!

quote Originally posted by Blacktree: Yes, the lip goes on the outside. I haven't tried moly grease, but see no reason why it wouldn't work. BTW, your dog is 20 years old?! That's amazing!

Yep. blue is 20, im 19. I grew up riding around on his back lol. He still plays and jumps like a puppy. He is going to live for at least 5 more years.

WOW... that's almost double the average life expectancy of a dog.

BTW, unless the design of the Prothane bushings has been updated, you will need to make one small modification to the front lower bushings. They have a cap that goes on the end without the lip. That cap is a little to deep (about 1/8" extra). I was able to make the modification by sticking the piece on a plastic bottle cap (to keep it rigid while I cut it), and chop off the excess with a hacksaw. If you work the saw all the way around, instead of just cutting all the way through, you can re-use the bottle cap (or whatever you're using to hold the urethane piece).

Maybe these old photos will help?

Cutting the caps


Front uppers


Rears

quote Originally posted by Blacktree: WOW... that's almost double the average life expectancy of a dog. BTW, unless the design of the Prothane bushings has been updated, you will need to make one small modification to the front lower bushings. They have a cap that goes on the end without the lip. That cap is a little to deep (about 1/8" extra). I was able to make the modification by sticking the piece on a plastic bottle cap (to keep it rigid while I cut it), and chop off the excess with a hacksaw. If you work the saw all the way around, instead of just cutting all the way through, you can re-use the bottle cap (or whatever you're using to hold the urethane piece). Maybe these old photos will help? Cutting the caps Front uppers Rears

Thanks for the tip. And im shooting for sunday to have the engine out.

I have done two Fieros (86, 87) with the Prothane Poly kit. I would reommend against cutting the caps. You can get them in as they are. They are a tight fit though. I put the A arm in the fully down position and use a floor jack to "help" them into position. That and a few whacks with the hammer does the trick.
Jim