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87antuzzi build thread. by 87antuzzi
Started on: 04-18-2010 01:06 AM
Replies: 137
Last post by: bowrapennocks on 08-04-2010 08:23 AM
87antuzzi
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Report this Post07-29-2010 08:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 87antuzziClick Here to Email 87antuzziSend a Private Message to 87antuzziDirect Link to This Post
god poly is one hot, sticky, smelly mess. Kind of like a fat chick only worse. I hate it, i hate it, i hate it!!!!!! it better be worth it!
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87antuzzi
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Report this Post07-29-2010 08:25 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 87antuzziClick Here to Email 87antuzziSend a Private Message to 87antuzziDirect Link to This Post

87antuzzi

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Oh yeah! who just owned page 4!
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87antuzzi
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Report this Post07-29-2010 09:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 87antuzziClick Here to Email 87antuzziSend a Private Message to 87antuzziDirect Link to This Post
OK. have some questions before I go any farther. I got the complete poly kit for the fiero. The little caps that go in the ball joint, how the hell do those work? Do i need to un press the ball joint or just slide the cover the existing boot? Now for question number 2. Does a fiero have a separate wheel bearing? I have the rear spindles off and the hub and knoticed the bearing was pressed into the hub. then on the spindle there is a seal that sits inside of the hole where the hub attaches. Im on my way to kregan and need to know asap!
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87antuzzi
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Report this Post07-29-2010 09:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 87antuzziClick Here to Email 87antuzziSend a Private Message to 87antuzziDirect Link to This Post

87antuzzi

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Nevermind. just searched and figured out the rear hub assembly IS the rear wheel bearing. So all i need is seals . back in 2 hours.
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87antuzzi
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Report this Post07-29-2010 10:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 87antuzziClick Here to Email 87antuzziSend a Private Message to 87antuzziDirect Link to This Post
C'mon peeps. I need some help here. How do these poly cap things go on the ball joints?
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LitebulbwithaFiero
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Report this Post07-29-2010 10:38 PM Click Here to See the Profile for LitebulbwithaFieroClick Here to Email LitebulbwithaFieroSend a Private Message to LitebulbwithaFieroDirect Link to This Post
They are only for looks. I think you have to trim them to get them to fit. Do not take your rubbers off for these. The rubbers seal the dirt out better. If you don't to have them for the looks, then just pitch them.
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aeffertz
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Report this Post07-29-2010 11:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for aeffertzClick Here to Email aeffertzSend a Private Message to aeffertzDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by 87antuzzi:Oh yeah! i also have a "treat" for you all following this thread. When I get the fiero in the garage I am going to TRY to get a rod to throw out of the engine (rock on gas pedal). Of course I will record it!!


Why?
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87antuzzi
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Report this Post07-29-2010 11:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 87antuzziClick Here to Email 87antuzziSend a Private Message to 87antuzziDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by aeffertz:


Why?


Why not?
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carbon
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Report this Post07-30-2010 07:55 AM Click Here to See the Profile for carbonSend a Private Message to carbonDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by 87antuzzi:


Why not?


Remember the big smelly mess you were just talking about? What do you think happens when you perforate the block?
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87antuzzi
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Report this Post08-01-2010 02:36 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 87antuzziClick Here to Email 87antuzziSend a Private Message to 87antuzziDirect Link to This Post
Testing out the first hd video. Bushing on fire

New stuff thats getting rebuild and installed


Ignore the muffler

Fire


My dog blue enjoying the smell. (this dog is older than me. Im now 19)
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87antuzzi
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Report this Post08-01-2010 06:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 87antuzziClick Here to Email 87antuzziSend a Private Message to 87antuzziDirect Link to This Post
update in a couple minutes
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Blacktree
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Report this Post08-01-2010 06:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageClick Here to Email BlacktreeSend a Private Message to BlacktreeDirect Link to This Post
The urethane ball joint / tie rod dust boots are meant as a replacement for the stock ones. But they don't fit that well, especially on the ball joints. If your existing ball joint / tie rod boots are OK, then don't waste your time with it.
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87antuzzi
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Report this Post08-04-2010 12:59 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 87antuzziClick Here to Email 87antuzziSend a Private Message to 87antuzziDirect Link to This Post
Poly question. I just did one of the control arms. The lip on the poly goes on the outside of the arm correct? Also, i ran out of the teflon grease. Will black moly grease work?
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Blacktree
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Report this Post08-04-2010 01:48 AM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageClick Here to Email BlacktreeSend a Private Message to BlacktreeDirect Link to This Post
Yes, the lip goes on the outside. I haven't tried moly grease, but see no reason why it wouldn't work.

BTW, your dog is 20 years old?! That's amazing!
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87antuzzi
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Report this Post08-04-2010 01:51 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 87antuzziClick Here to Email 87antuzziSend a Private Message to 87antuzziDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Blacktree:

Yes, the lip goes on the outside. I haven't tried moly grease, but see no reason why it wouldn't work.

BTW, your dog is 20 years old?! That's amazing!


Yep. blue is 20, im 19. I grew up riding around on his back lol. He still plays and jumps like a puppy. He is going to live for at least 5 more years.
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Report this Post08-04-2010 02:05 AM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageClick Here to Email BlacktreeSend a Private Message to BlacktreeDirect Link to This Post
WOW... that's almost double the average life expectancy of a dog.

BTW, unless the design of the Prothane bushings has been updated, you will need to make one small modification to the front lower bushings. They have a cap that goes on the end without the lip. That cap is a little to deep (about 1/8" extra). I was able to make the modification by sticking the piece on a plastic bottle cap (to keep it rigid while I cut it), and chop off the excess with a hacksaw. If you work the saw all the way around, instead of just cutting all the way through, you can re-use the bottle cap (or whatever you're using to hold the urethane piece).

Maybe these old photos will help?

Cutting the caps


Front uppers


Rears
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87antuzzi
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Report this Post08-04-2010 02:28 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 87antuzziClick Here to Email 87antuzziSend a Private Message to 87antuzziDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Blacktree:

WOW... that's almost double the average life expectancy of a dog.

BTW, unless the design of the Prothane bushings has been updated, you will need to make one small modification to the front lower bushings. They have a cap that goes on the end without the lip. That cap is a little to deep (about 1/8" extra). I was able to make the modification by sticking the piece on a plastic bottle cap (to keep it rigid while I cut it), and chop off the excess with a hacksaw. If you work the saw all the way around, instead of just cutting all the way through, you can re-use the bottle cap (or whatever you're using to hold the urethane piece).

Maybe these old photos will help?

Cutting the caps


Front uppers


Rears


Thanks for the tip. And im shooting for sunday to have the engine out.
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bowrapennocks
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Report this Post08-04-2010 08:23 AM Click Here to See the Profile for bowrapennocksDirect Link to This Post
I have done two Fieros (86, 87) with the Prothane Poly kit. I would reommend against cutting the caps. You can get them in as they are. They are a tight fit though. I put the A arm in the fully down position and use a floor jack to "help" them into position. That and a few whacks with the hammer does the trick.
Jim
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