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Fool Everybody. Stereo looks stock, sounds great. by fierosound
Started on: 04-05-2007 10:52 AM
Replies: 186 (32302 views)
Last post by: FieroJuice on 12-19-2015 09:06 PM
fierosound
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Report this Post04-05-2007 10:52 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageClick Here to Email fierosoundSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I've installed an updated system in my 84 project car (OK - it's an Indy).
I wanted a stock look and much better sound without building an all-out system like I have in my 87 GT.

One of the first things to do is gut the interior and install soundproofing of some type. This will quiet the car from road noise and greatly improve the acoustics and efficiency of your stereo system. There's various products around like Dynamat and it's competitors and some people also use peel 'n stick roofing materials with sucess. Don't forget to cover the back of your door panels.





I'm using Infinity component speakers in the front dash and Clearwater Audio Headrest Speaker sets in the seat headrests. The in-dash 2000+ Pontiac Monsoon CD player will power all the speakers. For the subwoofer, I'll be using a very small Xtant 1.1i 100 watt mono amp to drive a subwoofer in a stock Fiero sub-housing. I'm using the TANG BAND W5-1138SM 5-1/4" Neodymium Subwoofer from Parts Express in the housing.


FRONT DASH SPEAKERS
I wanted a high quality component set in the dash and chose the Infinity 50.7CS component set. The Infinity set comes with passive crossovers (2 wires in, 4 wires out), 2 to the woofer, 2 to the tweeter. With the set's very high 94db efficiency rating, it works very well with factory deck power.


http://www.infinitysystems....ountry=US&Region=USA
This is how the Infinity components fit into the 4"x10" dash opening. 5.25" woofer and 1" tweeter on a speaker plate made from 3/16" hardboard.





I've done up a template that can be used to cut out dash plates. The hardboard can be pretty fragile, especially around the 5.25" cutout, so alternative materials such as 1/4" ABS plastic would be better.



This file is in MS Word format and will print in proper scale on regular letter sized paper.
There's a Bar Scale in the left corner. If it matches up to a ruler, it has printed properly.
DOWNLOAD the file from here: http://www.fierosound.com/speaker%20plate.doc


HEADREST SPEAKERS
Many have replaced their stock headrest speakers with aftermarket 4ohm speakers. Looking at the Fiero manual wiring diagram, the headrest speakers are clearly wired in parallel. This will create a very low 2ohm load using 4ohm aftermarket speakers (stock were 10ohm creating a safe 5ohm load) and could eventually damage your factory deck's amplifier.

I replaced the seat?s headrest speakers in my 84 project car with a set of
Clearwater Audio Miata headrest speakers. http://www.clearwateraudio.com/product.html

Clearwater Audio now has a Fiero headrest speaker set (they can be bought on eBay as well). They created a new part number CWC-3F (F for Fiero) and added the correct connectors so it's just a plug and play installation (once you get the seat apart). They are 3-1/2" 2-way speakers with the correct power rating for a stock deck (10-25 watts) and 7-8 ohms each. These will work with the stock wiring with no changes other than an inline bass cap (optional) and it won't overload the amplifier.

When your order the Clearwater Audio headrest speakers, here's what you can expect.

What you get in the box - 4 high quality speakers, well packed.



The speakers already have a pigtail with the correct connector to plug into the existing harness in the seat.



The connector makes installing the speaker a simple "plug 'n play". I checked, and the polarity is correct.



Here's how the Clearwater Audio speakers compare to the stock Delco headrest speakers.



Here they are pressed into the foam of the headrests. It works, but GM could have found a better way to install these.



For anyone who's never had their seats apart, here's how to do it. http://www.mrmikes.com/fierospeakers.htm


SUBWOOFER SYSTEM http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum3/HTML/000079.html

The Fiero Store sub-housing just bolts into the Fiero since it's a factory duplicate. If you have an 86 or newer, your heater box should already have the correct support bracket that supports the Convenience Center (chime box, flasher etc) as well as the sub-housing. I had a Dickman sub at first, but saw this thread and decided to try the Parts Express sub as mentioned by Bigfieroman. http://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...090219-2-076432.html

BIG improvement, especially since I am running 100 watts vs the stock amp's 20-25 watts.

This picture shows how the Fiero subwoofer box is mounted. I was using it without the tube and with a Dickman sub at the time, but later changed that. Because the tube is tuned for the stock speaker, it needs to be modified to match the new speaker's specs. Cut off 2 inches from the end. The housing is slightly undersize, so loosely stuff it and the tube with poly fiberfill (cheap at Walmart) to make it work better. This is how the stock subbox sits behind the dash.



I purchased the TANG BAND W5-1138SM 5-1/4" Neodymium Subwoofer from Parts Express
http://www.partsexpress.com...?&Partnumber=264-831

Here's a comparison of the Rodney's replacement sub to the larger Tang Band subwoofer



Don't let the small magent fool you. It's a Neodymium magnet - more efficient, more powerful and can therefore be smaller but producing the same power as the large regular iron core magnets. Not sure why more manufacturers aren't using the Neodymium magnets. Probably because the BIG magnets are not only cheaper, but more impressive looking to the unknowing buyer who thinks "bigger is better"???



I made a mounting ring from 3/4" MFD. The edges were coated with silicone (to seal) before slipping it in and attaching it through the sides with screws. Pre-drill the holes or the MDF will split.



The subwoofer attaches to the front. The stock grill will no longer fit, so I used the mounting ring and grill from the Infinity speaker (sanded and painted Satin Black) to protect the subwoofer.





Not my car - found this video on YouTube - recorded with a cell phone I think.
Unfortunately, a YouTube video doesn't give you the "in the car" sound and feel.




DECK, ADAPTERS AND SUBWOOFER AMPLIFIER
A 2000+ Pontiac Monsoon CD player replaces the stock radio/cassette unit. I'll be using an Xtant 1.1i 100 watt mono amp to drive a subwoofer in the stock housing. The Xtant amp is 6.5" x 5.7" x 1.6" high which will fit under the passenger seat out of the way. This tiny amp really delivers and is perfect for the job. Amp specs http://www.xtant.com/archiv...oducts/xtant1.1i.cfm



Comparison of the amp size to the deck.



I purchased a Delco radio adapter harness (simplifies A LOT) to connect the new Delco to the Fiero?s wiring harness. I made all my new connections in this harness so as not to modify any of the car?s wiring. The NE-7V adaptor taps the signals from the front speaker wires and provides 2 RCA level outputs (left/right) that will run the subwoofer. These will connect to the adjustable PFMOD LP-1 Low Pass crossover (set to 133Hz) which sends a mono signal to the Xtant subwoofer amp which then powers the subwoofer. I also soldered the bass caps for the headrest speakers in the adaptor harness as well.

Amp with Low Pass filter and line output adapter wired to the radio adapter harness



NE-7V adapter http://www.davidnavone.com/adaptor_products.htm
PFMOD LP-1 crossover http://store.hlabs.com/pk4/...e.pl?view_product=26



I have the thing working - the sound quality of the Delco radio tuner could be better.! I was starting to think this whole setup was a waste until I played some CDs and connected my MP3 player. I ripped my MP3s at 256Kbps which is pretty close to original CD quality (320Kbps is better yet, but the files get REALLY big). Awesome sound playing CDs and MP3s through the system. Not as great as the setup in my GT, but still impressive for something that looks all stock. The MP3 is connected with a Peripheral Integrated Electronics (P.I.E.) GM9-AUX auxiliary input interface. This allows connection of any MP3 player through the CD Changer Aux. port on the back of the Delco player. There is also an iPod specific interface available from P.I.E. http://www.peripheralelectronics.com



I was experimenting with the settings on the PFMOD LP-1 Low Pass Crossover for the subwoofer. I tried it at 89Hz but found that 133Hz worked better, allowing the sub to produce more midbass. I had installed Bass Blockers (capacitors) inline to all the speakers to cut the lower frequencies.

When you have a subwoofer in your system, you usually want to decrease the amount of bass going to your mid-range speakers (tweeter will already be crossed-over). This will give your speakers better mid-range and high end sound and increase their power handling while reducing distortion by rolling off the bass before it gets to your mid-range speakers.

To do this, you use a "bass blocker" (high pass filter), a capacitor placed in series with the speaker input. It blocks the lower frequencies, and allows the higher frequencies to pass through. Bass blockers are installed in series, one end connected with the positive lead from your amplifier and the other end connected to the positive lead of each of your speakers. Bass blocker capacitors are available at any Radio Shack, eBay, Crutchfield etc. or parts supply house. You could also use an electronic crossover to filter the signal, but using capacitors keeps it simple.



I used capacitors inline before the 2-way crossovers to the front speakers which block frequencies below 50Hz. At present this seems to be a good crossover point for the Infinity component set with the subwoofer. For the headrest speakers, I used caps which block frequencies below 100Hz. I installed these inline behind the radio in the adapter harness rather than at the harness connecting to the seats.

Use 50-100 Volt Capacitors - Values for 2/4/8 ohm speakers.
Polarized or non-polarized will work, but be sure to install polarized capacitors in right direction.




HOW DOES ALL THIS SOUND?
Since my subwoofer setup gets its signal off the front channels, switching the fader completely to REAR headrest speakers only, eliminates the front speakers and all subwoofer output, so there is no mid-bass or bass at all. Playing the headrest speakers only, with a cutoff at 120Hz (with the bass blockers) you are only playing midrange and higher. The speakers reproduce this very clearly and can produce quite a bit of volume without distortion. BUT, you?d never be listening to the system with this setting except for testing purposes.

By nudging the fader toward the front very slightly, I got the subwoofer to come in and a very low volume from the front speakers. In fact I had to lean up to the dash to hear them at all. At this setting I was basically listening to the headrest speakers and bass/mid-bass from the subwoofer. This immediately "fills out" the sound immeasurably - and oddly enough, it "sounds" like the mid-bass is coming from the headrest speakers!

With the fader set "dead center" I found that the front/rear balance is exactly correct when sitting normally. I listened to all kinds of music for almost an hour, including Big Band, drum solos, country, heavy metal, and rock and roll. The front sound stage is full, wide and complete without the ?center hole? of the stock system. At first you think the headrest speakers aren't working at all, but as soon as your turn your head slightly, you'll hear that headrest speaker right away. While looking straight ahead (as you normally would), the overall ?concert hall? effect is excellent.

I would recommend both the Infinity component set and the Clearwater Audio headrest speakers. The Parts Express subwoofer is a big improvement over a stock subwoofer, and I would recommend this easy upgrade for people wanting more bass without building trunk or firewall subs. The newer Delco CD decks fit and look great and will connect and play MP3s with the appropriate adapters, which makes large bulky CD Changers pretty much obsolete.

Bottom line ? I'm VERY happy with the results, and that's saying a lot, because I'm comparing it to my "other system" in my 87 GT. Total cost for everything was about $1100 - but it sounds like MUCH more.


------------------
My World of Wheels Winners (Click on links below)

3.4L Supercharged 87 GT and Super Duty 4 Indy #163

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 06-22-2017).]

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Pyrthian
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Report this Post04-05-2007 11:13 AM Click Here to See the Profile for PyrthianClick Here to Email PyrthianSend a Private Message to PyrthianEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

awesome job! looks natural - and I bet it sounds great!

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F-I-E-R-O
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Report this Post04-05-2007 12:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for F-I-E-R-OClick Here to Email F-I-E-R-OSend a Private Message to F-I-E-R-OEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I can't tell you how much I appreciate your posting this! A + for you and a stick in the eye of who ever gave you a neg- I see a sliver of red... on the other hand, without it you'd probably just be a robot.

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fierosound
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Report this Post04-05-2007 12:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageClick Here to Email fierosoundSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by F-I-E-R-O:

I can't tell you how much I appreciate your posting this! A + for you and a stick in the eye of who ever gave you a neg- I see a sliver of red... on the other hand, without it you'd probably just be a robot.


Thanks. I've posted all this information in different threads before. I just pulled everything together into one place so it's easier to get a sense of the whole system.

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 04-05-2007).]

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fierosound
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Report this Post04-05-2007 03:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageClick Here to Email fierosoundSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

^^^

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 04-11-2007).]

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tjm4fun
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Report this Post04-05-2007 06:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tjm4funClick Here to Email tjm4funSend a Private Message to tjm4funEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

good post. nice tying together of all you;ve done. one thing you did really well was making that total end seal mount for the subwoofer, without that, I doubt you would have had as much success. I am now making an additional post ot big fieroman;s thread now on my fix this morning.


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rogergarrison
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Report this Post04-05-2007 06:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonClick Here to Email rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Just keep it turned down when driving or someone else might like the sound and borrow it from you some night.

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Report this Post04-06-2007 06:52 AM Click Here to See the Profile for QuicksterClick Here to Email QuicksterSend a Private Message to QuicksterEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Interesting post! I'm curious about the "Clearwater" Speakers. "Made in Folsom"? (By Convicts?) Hmmmmmmm?

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Mister
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Report this Post04-06-2007 08:09 AM Click Here to See the Profile for MisterSend a Private Message to MisterEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Great right-up Soundman, good info

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Pyrthian
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Report this Post04-06-2007 10:15 AM Click Here to See the Profile for PyrthianClick Here to Email PyrthianSend a Private Message to PyrthianEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I am wondering about why you closed the subwoofer port?
I would think that with a larger speaker, requireing MORE cabinet space, closing the port would be going backwards, and if anything, making a larger port would be the right way to go?

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Mickey_Moose
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Report this Post04-06-2007 10:47 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Mickey_MooseClick Here to visit Mickey_Moose's HomePageClick Here to Email Mickey_MooseSend a Private Message to Mickey_MooseEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Tony, thanks for the post all in one spot.

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fierosound
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Report this Post04-06-2007 10:49 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageClick Here to Email fierosoundSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Pyrthian:

I am wondering about why you closed the subwoofer port?
I would think that with a larger speaker, requireing MORE cabinet space, closing the port would be going backwards, and if anything, making a larger port would be the right way to go?


It's more complicated than that. The speakers' specs determine what you can do. Some 10" subs will work very well in a .5 cu/ft sealed enclosure. Others require a 3-5 cu/ft (think bar fridge) ported enclosure for maximum bass extension. None are perfect because all have their pros and cons.

To use a speaker in a ported box requires more things. Generally the enclosure is bigger and harder to build properly. The port has to be tuned for the speaker and enclosure (diamater and length).
More here: http://www.diysubwoofers.org/prt/ http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp

Here we're working with an existing enclosure. This Tang Band subwoofer speaker's specs call for a SEALED enclosure volume of .19 cu/ft. The Fiero sub-housing is just under at about .16 cu/ft which is why we stuff polyfill into the enclosure. It works very well. The bass is tight and crisp, but obviously not a low as it would be possible with a 10" or 12" speaker. There's compromises to be sure, but this exercise is to get more with what you have. For MORE bass, you'd need to build behind-the-seat or trunk-mounted subs.

Parts Express has a good charts of the woofers and subwoofers they have:
http://www.partsexpress.com...indexes/sb_guide.cfm

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 04-06-2007).]

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Mickey_Moose
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Report this Post04-06-2007 10:49 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Mickey_MooseClick Here to visit Mickey_Moose's HomePageClick Here to Email Mickey_MooseSend a Private Message to Mickey_MooseEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

double post

[This message has been edited by Mickey_Moose (edited 04-07-2007).]

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Pyrthian
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Report this Post04-06-2007 11:02 AM Click Here to See the Profile for PyrthianClick Here to Email PyrthianSend a Private Message to PyrthianEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by fierosound:
..


thanks - I was thinking more in overall general term - but, since you actualy knew what the speaker wants - that is absoloutely the way to go.

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Report this Post04-11-2007 12:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageClick Here to Email fierosoundSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I see a pair of Xtant 1.1i 100 watt amps on are eBay. If you want good subwoofer power, I recommend these high quality amps.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Xtant-1...QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 03-26-2010).]

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LZeitgeist
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Report this Post04-11-2007 03:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for LZeitgeistClick Here to Email LZeitgeistSend a Private Message to LZeitgeistEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Wow, this is a TERRIFIC thread! Thank you for posting it, taking pics, giving directions, etc. - great job!

------------------
Patrick W. Heinske -- LZeitgeist@aol.com
1988 Red Fiero Formula Convertible
*Desktop Photo Here* (click either link for pics)

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Report this Post04-11-2007 07:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for musicman_L7Click Here to Email musicman_L7Send a Private Message to musicman_L7Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Very nice write up!

------------------
Nic



Beware the toes you step on today, for they may be attached to the ass you must kiss tomorrow.

Proud member of MIDWEST FIEROS!

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Xanth
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Report this Post04-11-2007 07:49 PM Click Here to See the Profile for XanthClick Here to visit Xanth's HomePageSend a Private Message to XanthEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Thank you very much for this post, I hope you don't mind If I copy you

------------------
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"If any car is both the parade and the rain, it is the Fiero"

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Report this Post04-11-2007 08:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for timgrayClick Here to visit timgray's HomePageClick Here to Email timgraySend a Private Message to timgrayEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I would add one more suggestion, stuff the subwoofer box with a loose poly fill it will round out the sound better. if you had the right software you could have figured out what changes to do to the port to correct it for that woofer, I am betting that extending it another 3 inches would have done the trick just by guessing at the woofer. best thing would have been to get a piece of pvc that slipped over the origional port and then "tune" it to the car by sliding it out and finding the sweet spot for your car and woofer.

Also another improvement would have been to fiberglass a band around the stock box to stiffen it. that stock box flexes all over the place and that is actually bad for bass response. stiffen the box, polyfill and a tuned port can make it rock even better.

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Report this Post04-11-2007 09:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Dirty HarryClick Here to Email Dirty HarrySend a Private Message to Dirty HarryEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Great timing! Have the radio installed & will be installing factory sub & speakers soon when I get my car back from Loyde. I don't have speaker seats so would really appreciate a recommendation for suitable 4x6 speakers. Thanks & a + for you.


------------------
87 GT Maroon, Red Formula & White Formula

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alex de jorge
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Report this Post04-12-2007 08:02 AM Click Here to See the Profile for alex de jorgeClick Here to Email alex de jorgeSend a Private Message to alex de jorgeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Harry,

I have some speaker seat that we can talk about. Let me know.

Alex (CFF)

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fierosound
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Report this Post04-12-2007 09:00 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageClick Here to Email fierosoundSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Xanth:

Thank you very much for this post, I hope you don't mind If I copy you



Not at all. That's why we post all this stuff...


 
quote
Originally posted by Dirty Harry:

Great timing! Have the radio installed & will be installing factory sub & speakers soon when I get my car back from Loyde. I don't have speaker seats so would really appreciate a recommendation for suitable 4x6 speakers. Thanks & a + for you.



Don't get a co-axial. Get a high quality 4"x6" plate from Infinity, Polk Audio etc.

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fierosound
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Report this Post04-12-2007 09:27 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageClick Here to Email fierosoundSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Almost forgot, a great diagram for new/old radio wiring here:
http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/GM-Wiring.pdf

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 04-12-2007).]

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clok1966
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Report this Post04-25-2007 12:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for clok1966Send a Private Message to clok1966Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Dont by the 4X6 plates form Infinity, they do not fit. The magnets ont eh back are to large to fit without cutting or some major spaceing. I put a set in and they do go behind the panels, but its a huge PAIN unless you are good at fabricationg stuff. I would say you need a 3/4 to 1" spacer to make them fit correctly. Or am I just not doing it right?


Clok

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fierosound
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Report this Post04-25-2007 02:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageClick Here to Email fierosoundSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by clok1966:

Dont by the 4X6 plates form Infinity, they do not fit. The magnets ont eh back are to large to fit without cutting or some major spaceing. I put a set in and they do go behind the panels, but its a huge PAIN unless you are good at fabricationg stuff. I would say you need a 3/4 to 1" spacer to make them fit correctly. Or am I just not doing it right?



I believe they have more than one model of 4x6 plate. Which model of did you use? "helmet1978" has Infinity installed here.



This is his picture from here http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/080031.html

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 04-25-2007).]

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88formulaman
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Report this Post04-25-2007 03:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 88formulamanClick Here to Email 88formulamanSend a Private Message to 88formulamanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

the infinity 4x6 plates fit mine almost perfectly

only slight trimming with a die grinder to allow the magnet to fit in the hole.

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[This message has been edited by 88formulaman (edited 04-25-2007).]

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fierosound
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Report this Post04-30-2007 01:12 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageClick Here to Email fierosoundSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

^

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Xanth
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Report this Post04-30-2007 05:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for XanthClick Here to visit Xanth's HomePageSend a Private Message to XanthEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I've got a quick question for you, what Is a reasonable price for one of those headunits? I've seen them around on eBay, but for nearly $300. Is that normal or am I just looking wrong?

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Sourmug
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Report this Post04-30-2007 08:14 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SourmugSend a Private Message to SourmugEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

OK, you can help me with my sterio install

Nice thread!

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RWDPLZ
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Report this Post04-30-2007 08:56 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RWDPLZClick Here to visit RWDPLZ's HomePageSend a Private Message to RWDPLZEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Xanth:

I've got a quick question for you, what Is a reasonable price for one of those headunits? I've seen them around on eBay, but for nearly $300. Is that normal or am I just looking wrong?



Kru sells them on here for $150-200. I got mine at a junkyard for $45 becuase the display didn't work (burnt out display bulb).

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fierosound
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Report this Post05-01-2007 09:09 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageClick Here to Email fierosoundSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by RWDPLZ:

Kru sells them on here for $150-200. I got mine at a junkyard for $45 becuase the display didn't work (burnt out display bulb).



I got mine from KRU as well. Not all Delco units have a functional Aux port that will allow use of an adapter for connection of an MP3 player. Those run in the $150-200 range.

I got the Monsoon unit so I could connect my MP3 player. It was $249 http://replacementradios.co...h=23&products_id=227

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 05-01-2007).]

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ohio86se
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Report this Post05-01-2007 10:13 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ohio86seClick Here to visit ohio86se's HomePageClick Here to Email ohio86seSend a Private Message to ohio86seEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Fierosound,
How did you inerface the stock Fiero sub slider with the subamp? or did you?

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ambfiero
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Report this Post05-01-2007 03:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ambfieroSend a Private Message to ambfieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Yeah, what ohio86se said.....
How did you inerface the stock Fiero sub slider with the subamp? or did you?

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fierosound
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Report this Post05-01-2007 05:05 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageClick Here to Email fierosoundSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by ambfiero:

How did you inerface the stock Fiero sub slider with the subamp? or did you?



My car never had one. That's also why I have an aftermarket amp.

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BobadooFunk
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Report this Post05-01-2007 09:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BobadooFunkClick Here to visit BobadooFunk's HomePageClick Here to Email BobadooFunkSend a Private Message to BobadooFunkEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

seeing as i know nothing about audio, do round speakers sound better?

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fierosound
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Report this Post05-18-2007 10:11 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageClick Here to Email fierosoundSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by BobadooFunk:

seeing as i know nothing about audio, do round speakers sound better?


Yup. You won't notice it at low and "normal" volumes, but as you push the volume to higher levels, oval speakers tend to distort because the cones don't move evenly. This in turn distorts the sound quality. Often people think the distortion is because they don't have enough power, when in fact their speaker is the problem.

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FieroWannaBe
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Report this Post05-18-2007 10:44 AM Click Here to See the Profile for FieroWannaBeClick Here to Email FieroWannaBeSend a Private Message to FieroWannaBeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

how would one go about wiring the pillar speakers and headrest speakers?

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fierosound
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Report this Post05-18-2007 04:38 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageClick Here to Email fierosoundSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by FieroWannaBe:

how would one go about wiring the pillar speakers and headrest speakers?


Wouldn't do it myself because you're going to get strange staging and some weird impedance loads unless you're running external amps or something http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/079932.html

Maybe someone who's done this can chime in.

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FieroWannaBe
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Report this Post05-19-2007 10:49 AM Click Here to See the Profile for FieroWannaBeClick Here to Email FieroWannaBeSend a Private Message to FieroWannaBeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Since I really know extremely little about circuits, and audio systems, (I'm pretty much failing my circuits class FYI) It would be possible to wire ti up 6 channel wouldn't it, Anybody know of any 6 channel decks? I know my roommates Firebird has 6 channel sound, how are those wired, do they use special decks or amps?

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carbon
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Report this Post05-20-2007 05:58 PM Click Here to See the Profile for carbonSend a Private Message to carbonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Did you do something to increase the impedance of the components? The info I saw said they were 2 ohm... isn't that a little rough on the head unit?

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