Wow, I just tried using the brackets with the 5 1/4 Polks I purchased. The total speaker size is way bigger than 5 1/4. I guess I'll have to alter the bracket design.
[This message has been edited by GBglide (edited 10-07-2011).]
for those that don't want to buy a monsoon radio.. and use the am/fm/catt/eq factory one and have a ipod/sat/input.. you can.. you will loose use of the tape deck.. but who cares.. the tape deck has a 3 wire harness that come off the head and runs to the circuit board and plugs in to the board.. here is your aux in.. left+,right+ and ground.. want to use your new aux in. pop a tape in the deck.. or wire a micro switch that bypasses the micro switch the tape would trip.. you can also wire it so you have aux in and the deck still plays if need be..
Wow, I just tried using the brackets with the 5 1/4 Polks I purchased. The total speaker size is way bigger than 5 1/4. I guess I'll have to alter the bracket design.
There can be quite a difference between different speaker manufacturers.
There can be fitment problems with larger magnets - interference with the HVAC duct on driver's side. Nothing that can't be fixed with a heat gun. See here: //www.fiero.nl/forum/F...2/HTML/106287-2.html
[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 04-15-2012).]
Would this one be any good to use with the Parts-Express Sub or would it be too much? That kicker is non-existant now days.
Should be OK. Tang-band sub is rated 40 watts RMS (80 max). This amp is 100 watts RMS (same as Xtant I used). But I don't see that it has any Gain adjustment, so not sure how you'd adjust it to balance with the rest of the system.
How did you connect these speakers to the car's harness? Did you get plug-n-play connectors or did you cut the connectors off and splice the wires together?
How did you connect these speakers to the car's harness? Did you get plug-n-play connectors or did you cut the connectors off and splice the wires together?
Don't remember. Probably cut the connectors off to connect to the X-over. (takes bare wires I think) The speakers in turn connect to that.
Typical cross-over. 2 wires in, 4 wires out (2 to woofer, 2 to tweeter)
[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 04-16-2014).]
The Crutchfield guy was very nice and he never even questioned why I was buying a discontinued set from Amazon when they had similar products. He didn't offer to compare prices or try to talk me into one of their products. I wish I could have bought from them. They just didn't have any 5.25 component systems with the small neodymium magnets.
[This message has been edited by Boostdreamer (edited 05-05-2014).]
I got my front speakers installed and wanted to post my review of the set-up and the process.
For anyone who is thinking about doing this, you should know two things; it sounds great and it is a difficult task to perform.
I couldn't be happier with the sound of the component speakers. I got really good quality components and that was what I wanted. I got an older set that is discontinued so they were discounted on Amazon. I think I got a great deal. Now I just want to drive my car around and listen to the stereo. I have been driving a minimum of 40 miles a day for the past 16 months while in school. Now that I have a desirable sound system, I'm finishing school and my driving will be more like 10 miles a day if I get the job I'm after. That's a Fiero owner's luck, isn't it?
As for the installation process, it is not easy. I have a lot of time in making my three mounting plates. I made the dash speaker plates out of 3/16" hardboard. I attempted to make the subwoofer mounting ring three times out of 3/4 MDF and they all three split when I tried to fasten them to the factory sub housing with screws. I ended up making the subwoofer ring out of 1" red oak. I got the 12x42x3/4" MDF and the 6x24x1"oak boards from Home Depot. They were both just over $6 with tax.
There is a lot of fine-tuning with these plates. It is not easy to get them to sit in the recess just right and then have the screw holes line up just right. It takes many times of putting the plates into the car and seeing how they fit and then adjusting. You also want to be sure you don't interfere with the grill covers. They are skinny on the ends but have large mounting bases on the underside of the grill. You can easily think that they will fit since the shafts will easily have clearance but then the base can be blocked if the plates aren't opened up enough.
THEN you have to be aware that you are constantly reducing the material available to surround the 5.25 speakers. If it gets too thin, guess what? The metal rings around my speakers were hanging over the edges of my wooden plates a little bit. Make no mistake, this is a tight fit and you might do better by finding a component set that has a 5" driver.
Another thing that I didn't realize is that you have to cut out two sections of your dash's speaker mounting holes on both the driver's and passenger's sides. At least I had to. My speaker's baskets were not cone shaped. They came down straight then turned in toward the magnet. So, with the factory opening only being 4" at its widest part, it had to be honed out to fit a 5.25" driver and basket. If your basket is different, maybe you won't have to cut your dash. I don't know. If I had thought about it, I could have seen if my subwoofer would have fit in the dash plates without cutting. To be honest, it seems to me that everyone using 5.25" speakers will have to cut their dash.
[This message has been edited by Boostdreamer (edited 07-19-2014).]
On the way to school this morning, I was playing my stereo a little loud. Think girlfriend in the car and she wants you to hear her new favorite song! Yeah, about that loud.
Anyway, I was listening to a mixed CD that I had just burned a day or two before. By the time I got to school, I was hearing static in the speakers. Both sides. I figured I had fried them somehow. I thought the most likely problem was an impedance incompatability between the Monsoon deck and the Infiniti speakers. Don't ask me how many ohms either is rated at. I don't know.
After my exam, I drove home listening to my old rear speakers only. When I got home, I wanted to start looking into the static problem more closely. I couldn't find it anymore. How weird was that?
Any idea about what might have been going on? Overheating maybe?
Listening to the same CD, the static came back during the same song I remembered hearing it the first time. I have come to the conclusion that it is not a speaker problem. The CD in question has about an hour and fifteen minutes of music on it.
The problem could be any of the following: 1. CD was bad to begin with 2. CD was scratched after burning 3. Music is distorted when a CD is completely filled. 4. My computer doesn't write music as well at the end of the CD. If they are written and played from the outside diameter to the inside like a vinyl record, maybe the speeds and circumference of the track cause distortion from recording in that area of the CD on my PC. 5. My Monsoon CD player does not play well at the inner portion of the CDs.
I am so relieved that my speakers are not ruined, I really don't care! I may try to re-burn the same mix but leave off those last few songs to see if that makes it any better.
I re-burned the same list of songs on another CD out of the same package. I had used a 2-second delay between songs on the first copy and also had it set to record at the fastest possible speed. This time around, I changed to a 1-second delay and I set the recording at 8X.
This CD is playing just fine and my speakers have more than met my expectation. I do have a slight buzz somewhere in the dash on the driver's side.
Even though this Monsoon stereo has an equalizer, I wish it also had a bass-treble tone control. The way I understand it, the EQ is supposed to be used to make up for a speaker's ability or lack of ability to reproduce sounds in the various wavelengths. If the EQ is set correctly, it should never have to be changed since the speakers themselves do not change. However, when a recording is played back and it has excessive bass or treble, it would be nice to just turn one knob to make it sound better.
If you ran a second stereo with remote hidden you would never have to turn on the stock delco as a requirement.
Eventually this is how I'm going to do my Indy...the stock radio will light up (at most) but the real stereo will be hidden from site. A 90s GM CD player looks factory enough, but it's far from stock for an 84 Fiero.
BTW - CDs burn and play from the inside out, opposite from LPs. CDs slow down as they progress toward the outer edge to conserve space but the linear speed is the same. If there are any scratches on the outer diameter that will affect the playback at the end. I've found this to be a common problem. Nearly every CD I have ever burned fails near the end, (outer edge).
[This message has been edited by jscott1 (edited 05-31-2014).]
BTW - CDs burn and play from the inside out, opposite from LPs. CDs slow down as they progress toward the outer edge to conserve space but the linear speed is the same. If there are any scratches on the outer diameter that will affect the playback at the end. I've found this to be a common problem. Nearly every CD I have ever burned fails near the end, (outer edge).
The second CD I burned is playing just fine. I burned it at a slower speed and I think that helped. Maybe depending on your computer, in needs to be burned at some less-than-maximum speed or slower to create a recording of consistant quality. Mine didn't work well set to fastest available so I tried burning it at 8X the playback speed. You might try that or something even slower such as 7X or 6X. Keep trying slower and slower until you are satisfied with the playback.
I ran into another problem. The weather has been warm since I put the new speakers in so I have been using the "Vent" setting on my HVAC control ever since. The other day, my shoes got really muddy at work so I hosed them off and set them in the garage. They were still wet the next morning so I wanted to run the "Heat" to try to dry the shoes on the way to work.
When I selected the other settings, the air just kept coming from the vent. I suspected that I had done something during my speaker install that had disabled the HVAC selector function. After checking several things, I discovered that I had mounted the crossover box in the path of the door. The door was caught on one of the mounting screws and it couldn't move.
I'm really glad that the motor didn't burn out from trying to move against the screw. No telling how long it was in a bind. I will re-mount the box in the same place but I'll use double-sided sticky tape this time.
[This message has been edited by Boostdreamer (edited 07-20-2014).]
Here's a good replacement for headrest speakers - Tang-Band 3" full-range 8ohms w/neodymium magnet I've done a replacement with these and they sound very good. I found the tweeters on the others to be a little shrill so close to the ears. http://www.parts-express.co...mium-driver--264-812
[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 07-21-2017).]
To avoid confusion, I bought the domain name from him and he went with PontiacSound (search Kent Hill or pontiacsound) As I recall, as seems to happens with Fiero vendors, he took people's money and had problems delivering...
[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 12-17-2015).]
It's been a decade, & after reading that thread, it still amazes me how bad it got. I was even one of the folks he didn't deliver on & I had even commented on that thread too. I guess I blocked out that frustration. Now that I'm back in the Fiero game after not having one for years, looks like I need to go back and do some research on myself. Thanks for setting me straight.
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