There's always a fuller retard... You're not serious until you're running 1/2" pushrods.
lol, there's always a bigger fish! no joke though, my next big project will be running 1/2" pushrods, 2 more cylinders, insane heads, and won't be a Fiero.
------------------ "I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."
------------------ "I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."
I figured out earlier why I was having so much trouble with idle too...
Note: No IAC passage...
well, the LS1 TB I'm running was made to bolt to an intake with the passage cut into it... guess who forgot to cut the passage into the TB... DOH!
so, I cut a passage into the back of the TB, problem solved.
IIRC, N*'s, which use a similar TB, have the passage made into the TB, like how I have modified mine.
------------------ "I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."
went for a test drive today... felt real good. haven't gone past 25% throttle yet, still feels awesome though.
------------------ "I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."
the car has been giving me odd electrical issues for a while now, and the SES light is on when it wants to be, even though it should be illuminated for my cam position sensor circuit being fubar'd. so the past week or two has been spent working on a brand new engine harness. every wire and connector is brand spank'n new except for my battery cables that I made when I started the swap. I'm adding a fuse and relay center in the engine bay, and removing/replacing my C500. IIRC, Fieroguru said he routes the wires that come in from behind the console through the rear quarter to clean up the firewall, I liked that idea, so I am doing that as well. Today, I completely removed the old harness, and started cutting the C500 out, and made a bracket to hold the fuse/relay center. Between ditching the junky C500 and adding the fuse/relay center, my engine bay will look way better, and hopefully function better as well.
here is the C500 pinout for pins F through J for an '85 V6 automatic, I couldn't find it anywhere else, so if you need it:
F6-tan- servo position input hi f7-brn- taillights F8-grn/wht- trunk ajar F9-lt grn- backup lights F0-blk- ground
G6-lt blu/blk- servo position input lo
h6-dk blu- cruise vent valve control H7-dk grn- right turn flash H8-brn- trunk blower fused power H9-orn- trunk light
j6-lt grn- cruise vac valve control J7-lt grn/blk and ppl- brake switch J8-yel- left turn flash J9-dk grn/wht- blower fan
------------------ "I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."
------------------ "I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."
for the past week or so, I've been troubleshooting the fuel pump relay circuit, SES light, brake lights, head lights, and cooling fan. good news, all but one are now fixed! brake lights was the turn/hazard switch, headlights and cooling fan was a ground. the fuel pump relay was a little more confusing as I had checked the pins on the PCM harness a couple of times and "knew" it was right... it wasn't... I must have been tired, or drunk, or some combination of the two when I did it, because I had the relay trigger in pin 2 on the clear connector when it should have been on pin 3... DOH! works like a champ now. the SES light might have a bad bulb after all. I re checked the C203, and show 0V now. there is a +12v wire in pin b next to the ses light, so I wonder if maybe I had probed B instead of C. I've been doing all of this troubleshooting after getting off on the mid shift, so sleep deprivation has been a thing... I still have an oil leak, but it's not as bad as it was. I'm starting to wonder if it's the turbo oil feed or return. I'm gonna put it on a lift on my next day off and see if I can pinpoint the exact location of the leak and nip it in the bud. before I pass out tonight(day) I'm gonna see about making a new bin file for the tune based on a 3800 supercharged bin, so that tomorrow when I get off work I can try and light it off and see if a 3400 will run on a 3800 file. I'll post an update when it happens.
------------------ "I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."
drove it today, I found it desperately needs 3 things:
1. tune, obviously 2. alignment, at 55mph or so, the car is everywhere. 3. headlights. mine suck, bad,
the combination of the two makes for a terrifying drive at night. not only can you not see where your going, but you don't know where your going either!
not much to report, the car likes to blow the maf coupling alot... I think the farthest I've taken it thus far is about 8 PSI. knock sensor seems real quiet too. I plan on putting a T-bolt on it and trying again. if that fails. not sure where I'll go next. maybe ditch the maf and revert back to obd1. the 6400 rpm tables bother me, as my engine should be able to go further than that no problem. it does pull nicely though.
------------------ "I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."
Your welds look pretty good for a "first timer" loving what I see from the thread.
thanks, I've welded quite a bit before, but still need practice. i'm thinking about re doing my hotside and engine mounts soon, when I do, I'm sure it will look even better.
well, the aluminum fill/thermostat housing performed about like I thought it would, just not as good as I hoped... leaked like crazy. 1 pinhole leak from a weld, and from the entire cap. I either warped the cap, or it's cheap junk I'm guessing its a combination of the 2. I reinstalled the neck I had with a bleed, and finished a high point fill that fills at the suction of the water pump, much more discrete, and should be just as effective. I took it for a spin again, seemed to still want to overheat, not as bad. I'm going to pull the rad and inspect for foreign material or signs of clogging. as well as try to flush out the cooling tubes and see if anything comes out.
------------------ "I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."
Originally posted by Joseph Upson: Just curious about how you've planned to manage boost with a 3400 code mask that has no boosted application that I'm aware of unless there's a switch for a 2 bar MAP in it?
I was going through the thread looking for a pic of something else and saw this, almost all of the GM V6 code masks are very similar, in fact, there are flags for engine type, and cranks sensor resolution in almost all the obd2 codes, that could let you run a 3800 on 3400 code, or a 3400 on 3800 code. I've done it with my car, and it does work, but it's very time consuming to get the base tune setup.
------------------ "I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."
Curious why you tried to go this route? Seems like extra work when you could just use an inline fill? Have we talked about this? I can't remember, your swap is taking too long lets get this tuned so we can see some numbers and find an excuse to boost mine!
Curious why you tried to go this route? Seems like extra work when you could just use an inline fill? Have we talked about this? I can't remember, your swap is taking too long lets get this tuned so we can see some numbers and find an excuse to boost mine!
that was an inline fill... I just got a little itchy, had some filler and thought, why the hell not. I'm hoping to figure out this cooling system issue real soon so I can start enjoying it alot more...
quick update, did a pneumatic test of the cooling system, went to 22 PSI, and was at 20 PSI in 2 minutes, took about 23 minutes to go from 22 psi to 12 psi. not sure how much (if any) was test rig leakage vice system leakage. I'm going to fill the system, and start the car to see how quick pressure builds, if it immediately jumps, probably the headgasket, if it doesn't, probably not. . If it doesn't point towards that, I'm gonna back the car out of the garage, clean the floor, and lay down some paper, refill the system with water and dye, and re-pressurize to see if I can pinpoint a leak location.
radiator cap pressure tested out fine. we'll see what happens next...
re-torqued the head gaskets the other night, wasn't real happy when I got almost a whole turn on several of the studs. between that replacing a couple of old worn looking hoses. the cooling system appears to be holding pressure I haven't done a high pressure test yet. I'm also about 2/3's of the way done with my low mount alternator bracket. the alternator will be mounted near where it was on the stock 2.8, but still retain the factory 3x00 accessory drive (serpentine belt). I re-clocked the stock bracket so it points down, and am adding a few steel supports so the cheap cast aluminum won't fail.
pretty crappy picture, I'll take more as I finish it up.
all I have left to do is fab up the lower mount, and a heat shield to protect it from the exhaust. the idler pulley pictured directly above the alternator most likely won't be necessary. the plan is to use a LT1 (gen 2) f-body belt tensioner between the alternator and crank pulley.
this will allow me to install a dogbone again in the stock location, as well as put a valve cover with an oil fill on the rear head, which is much more convenient.
well, I got fed up with trying to make the stock bracket do what I wanted, so I ditched it and the stock alternator and began whipping up a bracket of my own design, so far, it's looking decent, but I still have quite a bit of work to do. the new alternator is off of a 2003 gmc safari w/4.3 v6. it's dimensionally very similar(slightly smaller case.), but it mounts with bolts parallel to the axis of rotation of the rotor instead of perpendicularly. I chose this alternator because it will be easier to mount imo, I'll post pictures when I take some later tonight.
The trick is still going to be making the tensioner work, which is proving to be more of a nightmare than expected.
still don't have better pics of the "new" alternator in daylight, but the new low mount alternator is about halfway done. still need to get the tensioner mounted, and add some bracing so it won't flex under load.
the promised pictures of the "new" alternator in daylight. also, in case I didn't already say it, I am only using this JY alternator as a mockup, it will either be replaced or rebuilt as necessary.
and here's some more pictures of the new alternator/tensioner bracket.
installed:
right now, there are two big things left. the tensioner is currently through bolted to the bracket, for the rear bolt, that's fine and good, for the front, it's a no go as it hits the nut hits the block and doesn't let the bracket sit flat. to combat this, I'm going to weld a stud to the bracket and have the nut on the opposite side. the other thing, if ti wasn't clear in the "installed picture, is to make a mount for an idler pulley above the tensioner. other than those to big-ish things, I'm also going to add a few supports to limit the amount of flex the bracket can see. I'm pretty happy I've been able to make this work with "wear parts" that are all available off the shelf, without having to be modified for installation, so if I blow and alternator, or tensioner, a quick stop anywhere should be able to yield a replacement.
so at this point, the bracket is about 80-95% done, seems pretty strong, the only thing I'm concerned about is belt wrap on the crank pulley. right now, it looks like the best I'll be able to get is about 180*. I'm gonna give it a shot and see how it does, if it squeals like a stuck pig, I'll try a few ideas I have.
In other news, I'm also working on converting the valvetrain to a full roller, adjustable setup. on a 3500, there are a few problems to overcome to make the conversion.
1. no guideplates available. I've got a solution I'm working on for that now though. 2. no conversion studs in long enough to make me happy, I've got about 25mm of threads in the head. the longest conversion stud I've seen only extends 20 mm into the head, which would be ok if it would be threaded directly into the head, but there's going to be a custom guideplate in between the head and the stud, which will further reduce the thread engagement. if it was in iron, I would have no worries at all about it, but going into soft cast aluminum, it's a spot where overkill is underrated. Thankfully, I have an extra set of heads I can use to test fit components on.
I test mounted the new alternator bracket, looks pretty good, just hope belt wrap isn't an issue.
in other news, I made up a quick drawing of an idea I have that would allow me to use fully adjustable rockers on my 3500, assuming I can find studs that will work...
the stock pedestal mount rockers have a groove that aligns the rocker to the valve, my thought, if the groove is good enough for the pedestal, why wouldn't it be good enough for a guideplate. nobody makes guideplates for a 3500, and because the valve are canted, a off the shelf guide won't work, as the angles won't match up.
you are trying to guide the push rods right so the rockers wont turn ? if that is what you are looking to do why not get BBC guide plates and cut them in the middle if needed and make them the width you need bolt them to a bare spare head and weld back together it is just a thought and by the way you are doing a great job would love to see this car some day
[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 07-13-2016).]
you are trying to guide the push rods right so the rockers wont turn ? if that is what you are looking to do why not get BBC guide plates and cut them in the middle if needed and make them the width you need bolt them to a bare spare head and weld back together it is just a thought and by the way you are doing a great job would love to see this car some day
I've thought about doing that, big thing is the stud size though, on a BBC, you're looking at a 3/8" or 7/16" stud, on the 3500, it's a 8mm stud, which is closer to 5/16" it would be alot of modification to make work.
good news, alternator bracket works, no odd noises or anything, belt wasn't destroyed in seconds, nothing exciting happened, it just worked! the car didn't overheat for the short time I ran it in the driveway, which is another plus!
car ran good the other day, needs lots of tuning done, esp for idle recovery. it didn't overheat over the coarse of about 6-7 miles I drove it, which is good, but towards the end of the drive. temperatures started to go up, nothing crazy, but it went from about 82-84 c to about 90-92 c when I turned it off. could be something, could be nothing. gonna pick up some dye and see if I can find any more leaks...
also, started rendering a new exhaust...
------------------ "I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."
so, the oil line to the turbo blew the hose end off, not 100% sure if it was an install error, material failure, or a combination of the two. either way, the turbo is trashed, new ebay turbo on the way to replace it for the time being.
I've continued with my new exhaust plans. the design is currently weld els and pipe, plan is full stainless for better thermal durability. I'm also planning on upgrading the turbo when the new exhaust is complete and installed.
Version 1.0
Looked cool, but bad measurements ruined this design...
Version 2.0
good measurements, very close to equal length, but very complicated, and expensive to build.
Version 3.0...
not really all that close to equal length, but as the gas velocity goes up, the distance becomes a smaller and smaller part of the big picture. as an added benefit, this design would cost quite a bit less than most of the others previously shown. I can potentially get them closer to equal length by adding spacers in the 180* bend in the #6 primary.it would be super awesome to have a rendering of a 3500 F23 setup right now to do a digital test fit... oh well, just have to take lots of measurements on the one in the garage and verify fitment that way...
so, the oil line to the turbo blew the hose end off, not 100% sure if it was an install error, material failure, or a combination of the two. either way, the turbo is trashed, new ebay turbo on the way to replace it for the time being
Awe man seriously!? Was there something building pressure in the line like a plug in the turbo or something?
Awe man seriously!? Was there something building pressure in the line like a plug in the turbo or something?
to my knowledge, no, it is possible, but I have no evidence to suggest what exactly caused it.
------------------ "I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."
Originally posted by ericjon262: to my knowledge, no, it is possible, but I have no evidence to suggest what exactly caused it.
If you are running oil to a turbo a standard rubber oil line held on a hose nipple by clamps will not hold. Either use a steel line, double flared with brass fittings (preferred) at the ends or AR fittings and stainless steel braided lines.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
I must have been tired, or drunk, or some combination of the two when I did it, because I had the relay trigger in pin 2 on the clear connector when it should have been on pin 3... DOH! works like a champ now. the SES light might have a bad bulb after all. I re checked the C203, and show 0V now. there is a +12v wire in pin b next to the ses light, so I wonder if maybe I had probed B instead of C. I've been doing all of this troubleshooting after getting off on the mid shift, so sleep deprivation has been a thing... I still have an oil leak, but it's not as bad as it was. I'm starting to wonder if it's the turbo oil feed or return. I'm gonna put it on a lift on my next day off and see if I can pinpoint the exact location of the leak and nip it in the bud. before I pass out tonight(day) I'm gonna see about making a new bin file for the tune based on a 3800 supercharged bin, so that tomorrow when I get off work I can try and light it off and see if a 3400 will run on a 3800 file. I'll post an update when it happens. 
lets get this tuned so we can see some numbers and find an excuse to boost mine!
