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The Turbo 3500 F23 swap by ericjon262
Started on: 10-03-2011 11:26 PM
Replies: 409 (18514 views)
Last post by: ericjon262 on 01-09-2019 02:22 AM
Joseph Upson
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Report this Post08-05-2016 08:26 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Joseph UpsonClick Here to Email Joseph UpsonSend a Private Message to Joseph UpsonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua:
If you are running oil to a turbo a standard rubber oil line held on a hose nipple by clamps will not hold. Either use a steel line, double flared with brass fittings (preferred) at the ends or AR fittings and stainless steel braided lines.


What he said eric, unless you know exactly what to look for you can't trust a bulk oil hose purchase from a counter man/woman who doesn't understand the difference between oil hose, oil resistant hose and heater hose. On my very first turbo build I used what I was told was oil hose clamped on to nipples which will hold as long as they have good shark-bite ridges. One day while working on the car I bumped a hose at the turbo and it broke off. It had become extremely brittle in just a few weeks of use. Not sure what they gave me but my mistake was not looking at the temp range usually stamped on the hose which needs to be at least 300 deg as I've measured 240 plus with a turbo and no oil cooler. Since that incident I used metal brake line or braided PTFE.

As for your headers, keep it simple with a turbo, as simple as you did on page 4. The only thing I would do is make it tighter with shorter radius mandrel bends. If you're not racing it you're unlikely to gain any real benefit from the added heat and leak risk from the spaghetti outfit not to mention it would need to be stainless for longevity if you're planning to wrap it.

If it's not too late get a turbo with a water cooled center. It will not protect against oil starvation but it will certainly increase longevity.

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Report this Post08-05-2016 01:56 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua:


If you are running oil to a turbo a standard rubber oil line held on a hose nipple by clamps will not hold. Either use a steel line, double flared with brass fittings (preferred) at the ends or AR fittings and stainless steel braided lines.



the old line was a stainless braided line from silicone intakes using AN fittings. the new line is aeroquip stainless with new AN fittings.


 
quote
Originally posted by Joseph Upson:


What he said eric, unless you know exactly what to look for you can't trust a bulk oil hose purchase from a counter man/woman who doesn't understand the difference between oil hose, oil resistant hose and heater hose. On my very first turbo build I used what I was told was oil hose clamped on to nipples which will hold as long as they have good shark-bite ridges. One day while working on the car I bumped a hose at the turbo and it broke off. It had become extremely brittle in just a few weeks of use. Not sure what they gave me but my mistake was not looking at the temp range usually stamped on the hose which needs to be at least 300 deg as I've measured 240 plus with a turbo and no oil cooler. Since that incident I used metal brake line or braided PTFE.

As for your headers, keep it simple with a turbo, as simple as you did on page 4. The only thing I would do is make it tighter with shorter radius mandrel bends. If you're not racing it you're unlikely to gain any real benefit from the added heat and leak risk from the spaghetti outfit not to mention it would need to be stainless for longevity if you're planning to wrap it.

If it's not too late get a turbo with a water cooled center. It will not protect against oil starvation but it will certainly increase longevity.


I'm designing the new exhaust to be made of stainless weld el's, I'm planning on schedule 40, but I haven't decided on the specific alloy yet, probably 316L. I am considering trying to do VGT to some degree with the new setup.

for now, the turbo will be pretty much identical to what I already have, so I can get the car rolling again sooner.

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Report this Post08-05-2016 02:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Joseph UpsonClick Here to Email Joseph UpsonSend a Private Message to Joseph UpsonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

You just scared me because my oil line is braided AN fitted line from siliconeintakes. It has been on the car for about 5 yrs now. I was going to suggest schedule 40 elbows for the exhaust. Once put together you should have trouble free service. I'm sure you're on top of it but just in case make sure you use studs for the exhaust and elongate any close fitting exhaust bolt hole to reduce the possibility of shearing anything off.

[This message has been edited by Joseph Upson (edited 08-05-2016).]

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ericjon262
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Report this Post08-05-2016 02:38 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

did you use their fittings? I don't remember seeing anything on their site about using their fittings when I bought the lines, and the fitting I used is a standard hose end. I think that may be the root of my failure, but it's hard to say for sure.

on a separate, but related note, I was using their hose for my fuel lines, and the high pressure line failed in the middle of the line. no sign of damage, just blew out.

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Report this Post08-05-2016 03:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Joseph UpsonClick Here to Email Joseph UpsonSend a Private Message to Joseph UpsonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by ericjon262:

did you use their fittings? I don't remember seeing anything on their site about using their fittings when I bought the lines, and the fitting I used is a standard hose end. I think that may be the root of my failure, but it's hard to say for sure.

on a separate, but related note, I was using their hose for my fuel lines, and the high pressure line failed in the middle of the line. no sign of damage, just blew out.


Yes I used their fittings. I have two types of braided line. The first I used I believe is called CPE for the fuel line. I prefer that braided line because it is much more flexible than the PTFE which is what the OE plastic looking fuel line found connected to modern fuel rails is.

The draw back is that the CPE is porous and although it doesn't out right leak fuel, it does tend to bleed through and in some cases can give off fumes and apparently that is one of the reasons PTFE has come about, I believe it also allows some oil to bleed through a little. I purchased it off ebay along with fittings which had a different locking mechanism attachment to the hose. The siliconeintakes fittings were a bit more sophisticated and dependable and now that I think about it, if you attempted to clamp the braided PTFE line to a nipple I'm pretty certain that's where your trouble started as that inner hose which is more like a hard plastic line probably didn't compress much. The CPE looks like a thin rubber braided hose and would have worked well with just a clamp.

[This message has been edited by Joseph Upson (edited 08-05-2016).]

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Report this Post08-06-2016 08:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FierobsessedClick Here to Email FierobsessedSend a Private Message to FierobsessedEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Joseph Upson:
PTFE which is what the OE plastic looking fuel line found connected to modern fuel rails is.


The black stuff? That's actually Nylon. Good for gas, air and vacuum, but it can get brittle with heat.

PTFE or teflon itself is extremely soft and weak, it can't take any pressure before it ruptures. However, it is resilient to pretty much all chemicals. Oil, refrigerant, coolant, gas, alcohol? No problem. It's the braid itself that is actually what is holding the pressure keeping the line from ballooning. That's why they require special fittings that actually grab and anchor back the braid instead of just freely clamp around the outside. Usually you want to keep the temperature under 250f or so. Teflon gets far softer with temperature. With the correct fittings, it can hold hundreds of PSI, to around 1000 depending on size and the fitting type.

Silicone should be avoided with anything other then air or coolant. Oil and gas cause it to swell up.

It's also important to never over tighten a hose clamp, especially over a barb fitting and even more so with silicone. You tighten the hose clamp down too much and the barbs will begin to slice the inside of the pressure holding part of the hose, which is everything from the internal braid inwards. once that layer gets pierced, fluid will fill the outer jacket causing ballooning and rupturing of the hose, usually catastrophically.

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Report this Post08-07-2016 12:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Joseph Upson:


Yes I used their fittings. I have two types of braided line. The first I used I believe is called CPE for the fuel line. I prefer that braided line because it is much more flexible than the PTFE which is what the OE plastic looking fuel line found connected to modern fuel rails is.

The draw back is that the CPE is porous and although it doesn't out right leak fuel, it does tend to bleed through and in some cases can give off fumes and apparently that is one of the reasons PTFE has come about, I believe it also allows some oil to bleed through a little. I purchased it off ebay along with fittings which had a different locking mechanism attachment to the hose. The siliconeintakes fittings were a bit more sophisticated and dependable and now that I think about it, if you attempted to clamp the braided PTFE line to a nipple I'm pretty certain that's where your trouble started as that inner hose which is more like a hard plastic line probably didn't compress much. The CPE looks like a thin rubber braided hose and would have worked well with just a clamp.



I didn't clamp the SI stuff to a nipple... I used a standard, off the shelf, hose end. I'm dumb, but not quite stupid... the new line is an aeroquip line, using aeroquip hose ends. after having multiple failures with the SI stuff, I won't be using it again. I'll stick to the tried and true products from eaton/aeroquip.

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Report this Post08-10-2016 03:02 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

well, when I built this thing I was thinking I could just unbolt the ebay POS turbo, and bolt in something reliable, well, my earlier attempts to remove the turbo to replace it proves that my design was crap and to remove and replace the turbo is probably going to require me to drop the cradle for the install... it's gonna be a royal PITA the whole way...

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Report this Post08-18-2016 09:41 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

old turbo is out, the turbo I ordered had the wrong outlet flange, so it's going back. I ordered a different turbo, that appears to be closer to what I purchased 3 or 4 years ago.

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Report this Post08-18-2016 11:07 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Joseph UpsonClick Here to Email Joseph UpsonSend a Private Message to Joseph UpsonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by ericjon262:
old turbo is out, the turbo I ordered had the wrong outlet flange, so it's going back. I ordered a different turbo, that appears to be closer to what I purchased 3 or 4 years ago.


You should be able to rebuild the first one also for a backup if the failure was not catastrophic and mainly a smoke out from bearing play. It's pretty straight forward with a complete rebuild kit.

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Report this Post08-18-2016 11:12 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Joseph Upson:


You should be able to rebuild the first one also for a backup if the failure was not catastrophic and mainly a smoke out from bearing play. It's pretty straight forward with a complete rebuild kit.


I could, but I don't plan on keeping this turbo on the car for the long haul, sometime next year I'm going to completely redo the turbo setup and put a much better ball bearing unit in.

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Report this Post10-01-2016 11:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

running again, new exhaust too.

https://youtu.be/BENwa-31478

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Report this Post10-02-2016 07:45 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Joseph UpsonClick Here to Email Joseph UpsonSend a Private Message to Joseph UpsonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Sounds great, be cool in residential areas and don't be too enthusiastic when rowing through the gears in the neighborhood because that exhaust is going to echo louder inside homes than it will inside the car and you may find a cop hiding in the area looking for you after enough complaints role in. There's (was) an obnoxiously loud Honda that passes by my neighborhood like clock work probably going back and forth to work which i'm sure has made a lot of people angry. Not long after, I noticed a cop car parked behind a building about 50 yards from the parking lot he turns out of onto the main street to start his routine.

It's fixed now. It wasn't so much his speed that I observed as it was the ridiculously loud exhaust which he probably had no idea was excruciatingly loud to those in the homes he passed. Four cylinder motors with little to no exhaust sound horrible and I suspect the cops caught up to him and pointed that out probably resulting in a proper muffler (sounded like about 5 ft of pipe and no muffler with the end dragging the ground). Just a warning because I found myself in a similar situation years back early in the morning and had no idea how effectively the exhaust echoed off high surroundings despite being a good distance from surrounding homes. I crested a hill early one morning and saw a cruiser in the median pointed rt at me and got the message to keep the exhaust cutout closed or the rpms down.

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Report this Post02-26-2017 10:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

so, had some odd issues shortly after posting the last video, drove it about 20 miles, as I was pulling up to the house, it stopped, as if I reached up and turned the car off. I did what I could to troubleshoot the cause, and didn't have very good results, the problems I was experiencing were also surprisingly similar to issues I was having with this car years ago before I started the engine swap. everything points to some kind of electrical problem, the engine harness was new, so I had my doubts it was the problem, the main harness, though was still a big unknown, and I decided to swap the entire harness from the C100 and fuse block, to the C500 with one I had from another car. I'm not sure it will fix anything, but at this point, it was the only thing left of the original car.

I've also begun installing a Megasquirt MS3x in the car, and making some upgrades to be able to take full advantage of the new EMS, I've got a set of LS2 coils, and am also installing a flexfuel sensor. the MS3x is being setup much like a total standalone setup, just add 12V so that if there is an issue somewhere in the chassis harness that is somehow affecting the ability of the car to run, it won't matter unless it's so drastic that it cuts 12V to the MS3.

here's the install so far:





it's mounted to a marine plastic called "Starboard", which I mounted to the firewall behind the passenger seat using mounts for an MSD box to isolate vibrations. I also designed a cable support to make sure the connectors don't flex on the cards inside the MS3.

the setup is far from perfect, but it should perform well.

beyond that, the replacement of the main harness showed me I was missing a metric shitload of interior screws, I picked up some more screws, and now my interior plastics are way more solid than they were, which should make it much more pleasurable to drive, and I welded in a 2x3 crossmember to an 88 cradle I have here so I can get started on remounting the engine and transmission better using mount bushings either from here:

https://liquidironindustrie...ve-with-Bushing.html

or have some made, $15 isn't too pricey though. the main thing I don't like is that they use 9/16" bolts, not metric.
------------------
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http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/119122.html

[This message has been edited by ericjon262 (edited 02-26-2017).]

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Report this Post02-27-2017 09:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

started the mounts for the LS2 coils, they need slight reinforcement, but shoult work ok until I find a better way to mount them. I'm thinking about modifying a set of valve covers to mount them similar to how they are done on a stock LS1/2, but this should get the car running for now.

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Report this Post02-28-2017 10:04 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Joseph UpsonClick Here to Email Joseph UpsonSend a Private Message to Joseph UpsonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by ericjon262:

started the mounts for the LS2 coils, they need slight reinforcement, but shoult work ok until I find a better way to mount them. I'm thinking about modifying a set of valve covers to mount them similar to how they are done on a stock LS1/2, but this should get the car running for now.



Why did you decide to go with LS1 coils as opposed to the less complicated stock coils? I know that sounds a bit hypocritical given the number of times I've taken the proverbial back door to get to the front yard but now I know less is better.

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Report this Post02-28-2017 10:51 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Joseph Upson:
Why did you decide to go with LS1 coils as opposed to the less complicated stock coils? I know that sounds a bit hypocritical given the number of times I've taken the proverbial back door to get to the front yard but now I know less is better.


hotter spark (shorter plug wires and better coils), Longer plug life, and it eliminates the ignition module. I will agree that the spark probably isn't that much hotter, but it also opens the door for the use of any coil that replaces an LS2 coil. I also already had the hardware on hand, just had to install it.

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Report this Post02-28-2017 08:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

more progress on the wiring, it's shaping up nicely so far, just slow going as expected...







I've decided to make no attempt to hide any wiring this round. all it does is make troubleshooting harder. function before form. I've mounted the speedometer converter next to the recently mounted fuse/relay center. working on installing a digital cruise control module as well, hopefully in the engine compartment behind the passenger seat, need to get a cable before mounting it though.

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Report this Post03-02-2017 12:16 AM Click Here to See the Profile for SpadesluckSend a Private Message to SpadesluckEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Following. I like you persistence, many would have just called it quits after a few failed attempts. Once all the little bugs are worked out it should perform well.

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Report this Post03-02-2017 12:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Joseph UpsonClick Here to Email Joseph UpsonSend a Private Message to Joseph UpsonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I'm anticipating a new non Fiero project in the near future and thought I'd pass an idea I have on to you. I found it difficult to install an exhaust system that was both free flowing and quiet due to space constraints. I settled on an electric exhaust cut out which worked well. The car was quiet enough with the cutout closed for neighborhoods and open enough with the cutout open to prevent restricting the turbo.

I read where you intended to dump the waste gate exhaust down stream back into the down pipe ahead of the muffler. You can do an open dump with the waste gate without it making a lot of fuss by adding a foot or so of pipe onto it. I used a stretch of flexible exhaust from Advance which worked very nice. I would hear a brief "whoop" sound like blowing over the opening of a jug inside the car when it opened which was rather harmonious instead of sounding like a high pressure exhaust leak.

As for insuring good exhaust flow, instead of another electric exhaust cutout, I'm going to use an appropriate sized external waste gate with a manual adjuster, mounted ahead of the muffler, adjusted to open at the desired boost pressure to open dump or, bypass the muffler and dump inside the exhaust down stream of the muffler. It's more efficient than an electric cutout in that it will open and close automatically. Just something to consider.

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Report this Post03-05-2017 12:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Spadesluck:

Following. I like you persistence, many would have just called it quits after a few failed attempts. Once all the little bugs are worked out it should perform well.


lol, well, quitters never win.

 
quote
Originally posted by Joseph Upson:

I'm anticipating a new non Fiero project in the near future and thought I'd pass an idea I have on to you. I found it difficult to install an exhaust system that was both free flowing and quiet due to space constraints. I settled on an electric exhaust cut out which worked well. The car was quiet enough with the cutout closed for neighborhoods and open enough with the cutout open to prevent restricting the turbo.

I read where you intended to dump the waste gate exhaust down stream back into the down pipe ahead of the muffler. You can do an open dump with the waste gate without it making a lot of fuss by adding a foot or so of pipe onto it. I used a stretch of flexible exhaust from Advance which worked very nice. I would hear a brief "whoop" sound like blowing over the opening of a jug inside the car when it opened which was rather harmonious instead of sounding like a high pressure exhaust leak.

As for insuring good exhaust flow, instead of another electric exhaust cutout, I'm going to use an appropriate sized external waste gate with a manual adjuster, mounted ahead of the muffler, adjusted to open at the desired boost pressure to open dump or, bypass the muffler and dump inside the exhaust down stream of the muffler. It's more efficient than an electric cutout in that it will open and close automatically. Just something to consider.


I've got a couple of non-fiero projects in the planning/R&D phases right now. for the past 2 years I've been slowly collecting nascar V8 parts for install in a firebird, and I've more recently started thinking about my "White whale" again, which should be more fun than anything else I'll ever build.

the "White whale" is still deep in the planning stages, because execution of the plan will be extremely difficult, and take years of engineering and hard work to accomplish. the plan is to build a a car modeled after 1960's style F1 cars, (the easy part), the engine I'm planning is a semi-custom DOHC V12

both of those will be N/a though. I still plan to dump the WG into the down pipe and not atmo dump it either way. I prefer all the exhaust to leave through the tailpipe.

------------------
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"The day I tried to live, I stole a thousand beggars' change and gave it to the rich."
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/119122.html

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Report this Post03-11-2017 11:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

coil mount version 2.0





ugly, but worked...

then came version 3.0, which I forgot to take a picture of...

then version 3.1. which was just a shortened version of 3.0



but, 3.1 wouldn't work on the front and back, just the back, so, version 3.0 was used in the front, 3.1 in the back, forming version 3.1.1



much cleaner., very functional, and should be able to use off the shelf LS2 plug wires.

at this point, I'm probably about 50% done with the wiring, which I have also made much cleaner looking.(the mess int he pictures is just part of the process) I've also finalized the location of the flexfuel sensor.

I also picked up another F23 and began working on a scattershield for the bellhousing, nothing fun yet, just a bell with some heavy sleeves around the bolts.



hopefully tomorrow will be as productive as today was.

------------------
"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."

"The day I tried to live, I stole a thousand beggars' change and gave it to the rich."
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/119122.html

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Report this Post04-11-2017 09:27 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I haven't updated this in a bit...

I started working on installing what are pretty much 13" C5 front brakes on all four corners, got the back left done, gonna try and get the back right done tomorrow. I have some brackets made by sluppy123 that should make the fronts easy-ish.

installed a knock module on my MS3x, but installed a cable inside the MS3x wrong and fried it like a retard... new one on order... yeah, that hurt.

wiring wise, the install is pretty much done, everything is in nice and tight, just need to install loom over the wire, and do some of the final setup of the dakota digital SGI 5e (if you've wired one up to a fiero, I'm interested in what settings you used...)

other than that, new wheels and tires are on order, wheels and back tires should be here tomorrow, still waiting on shipping confirmation for the fronts. got a bunch of hose and fittings on the way as well, and a shiny new really awesome tool.

------------------
"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."

"The day I tried to live, I stole a thousand beggars' change and gave it to the rich."
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ericjon262
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Report this Post04-30-2017 11:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

got the rear transmission mount finished, and the engine mount is almost done. I threw it in and realized I don't have much clearance to the axle in the region to the left of the left side upright, so I am going to notch the tube to make more clearance. I'm pretty much done with the scattershield, I just need to do some final welding, then I'm going to integrate the front trans mount into it. hopefully that will be done tomorrow and I can focus on relocating the strut tops inboard for the 88 cradle and fixing the cage nut that broke loose.

------------------
"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."

"The day I tried to live, I stole a thousand beggars' change and gave it to the rich."
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/119122.html

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Report this Post05-10-2017 01:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

quick update, after working 14-16 hour days in the garage for a week, the engine is back in the car, I have some small details that need to be ironed out, but it's there. I also fixed lots of little things while the engine was out, the shifter is now way tighter thanks to a tack weld and a bushing on the transmission end of the mechanism, and the engine mounts are probably an order of magnitude stronger and will provide much better anti-rotation characteristics than the previous setup. I may still add a dog bone up top as well, but I'm unsure if I will do that yet. I also cut out the hinge boxes, they were in the way, and my car hasn't had hinges for the decklid in years, it's been a pin on. I also re-located the oil filter relocation to the front left corner of the cradle, it's now much more out of the way than it was.



To-Do

heater core lines
main coolant lines to the wp and thermostat
re-install exhaust
re-work the intercooler bracket, and maybe replace the intercooler for better form-factor
replace the throttle cable bracket with something I can put CC on.
finish MS3x setup (pull up resistors and code)
repair or replace driver's side axle

------------------
"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."

"The day I tried to live, I stole a thousand beggars' change and gave it to the rich."
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pmbrunelle
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Report this Post05-10-2017 06:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for pmbrunelleClick Here to Email pmbrunelleSend a Private Message to pmbrunelleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I see you've installed your new struts, pretty much stuck as far as possible to the inside without doing any modifications. Looks quite clean; not a ghetto hack-job

I was thinking, for the scattershield, I guess you'll be welding steel pieces to the sleeves? Probably low-strength easily-weldable mild steel is preferred in this application. If the scattershield is too brittle, it too may become a projectile!

I always like to begin by studying old tech, such as state-of-the art battleship armour. Though in your backyard you won't get anywhere near the sophistication of WW2 armour, perhaps WW1 1800s tech at best.

[This message has been edited by pmbrunelle (edited 05-10-2017).]

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ericjon262
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Report this Post05-11-2017 11:37 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

the shield is done, I made it in 3/16" steel, hammered to shape and welded to the sleeves,



note the oil filter relocation is visible in the lower left hand corner. I'm getting ready to fab up a new thermostat housing that points the hose down over the shield as well. I feel much safer with it now, if the flywheel lets go, it has quite a bit of material to go through before it gets to me.

I don't think overly hard is a thing in this scenario, the shield would have to have some pretty serious defects to become a projectile in the event of a FW failure.

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Report this Post05-13-2017 02:18 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

started working on getting the new front brakes on, had to cut down a hub, wasn't too hard, I did it on the car with an angle grinder and a BFH. I rotated the hub opposite of the rotation of the grinder, and slowly cut in at about a 45* angle. once I thought I had gone far enough, I gave it a couple swift hits with the hammer to separate the rotor. I'm going to dress the back side when I install longer studs. I did also run into a new interesting problem though.... the old exhaust doesn't clear the new rear crossmember... I'm kinda thinking about installing a pipe that just sticks out the top of the decklid for now, just to be ridiculous until I can come up with a more engineered solution. things are starting to shape up nicely though.

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"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."

"The day I tried to live, I stole a thousand beggars' change and gave it to the rich."
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/119122.html

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Report this Post05-15-2017 03:16 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

got a new C/V axle today, was going to install it tonight, but was very late getting off work, so decided it would wait until tomorrow.

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Report this Post05-15-2017 03:25 AM Click Here to See the Profile for SpadesluckSend a Private Message to SpadesluckEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Keep up the good work.

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Report this Post05-15-2017 11:04 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

here's a teaser pic of what's to come... (it's on jackstands, not really that high...)

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"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."

"The day I tried to live, I stole a thousand beggars' change and gave it to the rich."
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Report this Post05-28-2017 10:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

been working on the rear brakes, I've taken lots of measurements and came up with this:



which I had 3d printed for a test fit:



I then found my measurements were off by 0.040, so I revised my drawing, and am now having them cut in billet 7075 aluminum.

I've also been working on some updates to the cooling system. I wanted to swap to AN fittings for as much of the fluid systems as I could, hose clamps suck, but when I asked about a compression fitting for 5/8" tube to -10 an, they said it didn't exist, told them to hold my beer while I made it exist.



I still need to find a solution for the water pump suction, with the 88 cradle swap, the tube and hose no longer work a prescribed, so I need to bend or weld, a solution, or spend somewhere around $150-300 on a huge compression fitting.

------------------
"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."

"The day I tried to live, I stole a thousand beggars' change and gave it to the rich."
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Report this Post05-29-2017 10:07 AM Click Here to See the Profile for lateFormulaSend a Private Message to lateFormulaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by ericjon262:
I'm designing the new exhaust to be made of stainless weld el's, I'm planning on schedule 40, but I haven't decided on the specific alloy yet, probably 316L.


I would suggest that you look into 321 stainless for your exhaust (everything before the turbo) as 321 has better fatigue resistance due to high temp cycling. Get it here:http://www.burnsstainless.com/321sstubing.aspx

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Report this Post05-29-2017 02:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Looking good!

For others who don't have access to a welder the 5/8 compression fitting with female 1/2" NPT is readily available:
https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/69496

Thread it over a male 1/2" NPT to -10AN fitting like this:
https://www.summitracing.co...-190110-bl/overview/

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Report this Post05-29-2017 06:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post


 
quote
Originally posted by lateFormula:
I would suggest that you look into 321 stainless for your exhaust (everything before the turbo) as 321 has better fatigue resistance due to high temp cycling. Get it here:http://www.burnsstainless.com/321sstubing.aspx


I was looking at 321 weld el's for the hotside, that's still a work in progress, lots of changes to make there, but with time, it'll be better.


 
quote
Originally posted by fieroguru:

Looking good!



Thanks, it's been a ton of work! and still more to come!
 
quote
Originally posted by fieroguru:

For others who don't have access to a welder the 5/8 compression fitting with female 1/2" NPT is readily available:
https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/69496

Thread it over a male 1/2" NPT to -10AN fitting like this:
https://www.summitracing.co...-190110-bl/overview/


My fitting started out as compression with male NPT threads and an adapter from 1/2" npt to -10 JIC(AN) but I didn't like the bulk of the combined fitting, so I cut them down and welded them. I'm also using swageloc style compression fittings, I've always had really good luck with them.

------------------
"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."

"The day I tried to live, I stole a thousand beggars' change and gave it to the rich."
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/119122.html

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Report this Post06-03-2017 11:34 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

brackets cut in billet!



and now, C5 front brakes on and 88 knuckle!



still need to make up some lines, but otherwise, it's pretty much done. should stop on a dime and give nine cents change.

I'll post the bracket dimensions along with details of the necessary modifications once I have all those details hammered out. theoretically, they should work on 88 fronts as well, but I have no way to confirm it as my car is an 85.

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Report this Post06-03-2017 11:58 PM Click Here to See the Profile for pmbrunelleClick Here to Email pmbrunelleSend a Private Message to pmbrunelleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

As some kind of a criticism/suggestion that's a little late, I would remove the paint from the caliper brackets on the clamping surfaces.

When I paint that sort of part, I mask the areas under bolt heads, etc, with round self-adhesive paper stickers from Staples.

The paint can collapse under the pressure from a bolt squeezing it. If this happens, then the bolted joint may become loose.

[This message has been edited by pmbrunelle (edited 06-03-2017).]

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Report this Post06-04-2017 11:07 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by pmbrunelle:

As some kind of a criticism/suggestion that's a little late, I would remove the paint from the caliper brackets on the clamping surfaces.

When I paint that sort of part, I mask the areas under bolt heads, etc, with round self-adhesive paper stickers from Staples.

The paint can collapse under the pressure from a bolt squeezing it. If this happens, then the bolted joint may become loose.


it's powder coat, way tougher than paint. I'm not too worried about it, thanks for the suggestion though. I'll keep an eye on it.

here are the dimensions.



I'm the lower bolt holes are offset by 0.195 from the upper bolt holes.

The caliper bracket required some minor trimming to make fit the fiero, in the area inboard of the mounting bolts. the drawing in paint makes it look more severe than it is in real life. this bracket may work on the front, but I haven't tested it yet.

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Report this Post06-04-2017 12:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for pmbrunelleClick Here to Email pmbrunelleSend a Private Message to pmbrunelleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by ericjon262:
it's powder coat, way tougher than paint. I'm not too worried about it, thanks for the suggestion though. I'll keep an eye on it.


Firstly, there's a decent chance that nothing will happen.

Now when I was younger and dumber, I painted the rear brake calipers of my first car (a Saturn SL2). Blissfully unaware of best practices, I spray bombed (shitty enamel that was definitely softer than powder coat) everything with impunity. The glossy red was what mattered!

A few days later, while driving home from work (a 15-mile freeway commute with traffic), I heard a "clunk" noise every time I applied the brakes. So I got off the road, and I discovered that my caliper bracket bolts had backed out about one turn. Having zero tools in the car, I finger-tightened the bolts, and continued on my way. I got home by finger re-tightening the bolts about every 3 miles...

So anyway, IF you happen to hear a clunk noise on braking, consider the loss in joint preload as a probable cause.

To say something good about the brackets, the generous concave corner radius on the raised 0.195" section is a nice detail.

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Report this Post06-10-2017 09:55 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I made a "surge tank" to be mounted in the engine compartment. the tank will have the recirc line from the thermostat, and the return from the heater core going to it. then a line going back to the water pump. it should act as an excellent hi point fill, as well as an air trap.



all of my welds have held to over 120 PSI. once the cooling system is buttoned up, I'll remove the schrader valve installed in the cap and put a bleeder valve in to vent air from the system.

I got the rear brakes bled, moved on to the front and found that my front left line was leaking at the banjo bolt, I tightened it up a bit and almost immediately stripped the banjo... DOH! looks like I need a new caliper.

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