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3800 Turbo Build by nosrac
Started on: 05-09-2012 10:45 PM
Replies: 787 (25416 views)
Last post by: MstangsBware on 08-27-2014 03:08 AM
darkhorizon
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Report this Post04-05-2013 06:05 PM Click Here to See the Profile for darkhorizonSend a Private Message to darkhorizonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You have another problem if changing your plugs made something "not hit as hard"
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Report this Post04-05-2013 06:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JustinbartSend a Private Message to JustinbartEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
My android phone gets a little excited sometimes. I think it re-posts if I go to my home screen right after I post. Then the next time I open the browser it will reload and re-post.

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Turbo 3800 E85 F23 5spd spec5
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Report this Post04-05-2013 06:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FormulaSend a Private Message to FormulaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I think cell phones like to repost things, I know mine does.
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bump
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nosrac
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Report this Post05-25-2013 12:03 AM Click Here to See the Profile for nosracSend a Private Message to nosracEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
MstangsBware helped a brother out and fixed a whole bunch of stuff from my fubared install but it's Not finished yet...LOL

I still need to fix one more issue (that I know of). Hopeful I will be ready for Friday Night Drags in June but I am NOT holding my breath.

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Report this Post05-25-2013 01:02 AM Click Here to See the Profile for MstangsBwareClick Here to Email MstangsBwareSend a Private Message to MstangsBwareEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by nosrac:

MstangsBware helped a brother out and fixed a whole bunch of stuff from my fubared install but it's Not finished yet...LOL

I still need to fix one more issue (that I know of). Hopeful I will be ready for Friday Night Drags in June but I am NOT holding my breath.


Cant wait to see it run.....Cant wait tonget my **** backbteack worthy..
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Report this Post05-25-2013 04:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JncomuttClick Here to Email JncomuttSend a Private Message to JncomuttEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Crazy that I'm DDing my car before this thing was done...
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nosrac
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Report this Post05-25-2013 05:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for nosracSend a Private Message to nosracEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Jncomutt:

Crazy that I'm DDing my car before this thing was done...


Tell me about it.
It was done but needed to be re-done a few times. Two steps forward and one step back.
I get a major issue fixed and I see another minor one that needs my attention.
I don't like doing things half azz so I gotta have patience and get er done right or keep re-doing it until I do.
When it stops being fun and too much of a headache. I just let it sit until I get the bug again.

Don't get me wrong I can fire her up and go around the block anytime but....

 
quote
There will be no whine err whistle until it's the right time.
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BV MotorSports
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Report this Post05-25-2013 05:58 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BV MotorSportsClick Here to Email BV MotorSportsSend a Private Message to BV MotorSportsEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
LOL who is gonna get done first? Probably you.. even though I am so close!
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nosrac
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Report this Post05-25-2013 08:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for nosracSend a Private Message to nosracEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by BV MotorSports:

LOL who is gonna get done first? Probably you.. even though I am so close!


I needed to change the Turbo drain line because the 90* bend wasn't allowing the oil to drain properly and caused smoke out the exhaust on extended idling. So I ordered a new one and MstangsBware put it on after he changed the oil pan gasket and Timing chain gasket.
But now, the new drain line is leaking...lol So I need to change that out again, then it should be ready...I hope.
I put a new tune on her and did a case learn (which stopped my surging issue).


When I had the stock type plugs on the AFR was perfect and it spooled up fast as hell, but the spark would blow out in higher rpm's
So, I changed the plugs to AL 103 @ .045 gap to fix the blowout issue but I didn't change the tune making my AFR pretty rich. (colder plugs, smaller gap)
Since the turbo didn't spool like before the plug change. I assumed it was because I had too much gap on the plugs.
However after doing some research I think my problem is the tune. For a turbo application, I think the tune (AFR) needs to be on the lean side in the low RPM range for better low end torque off the line.
The theory being, the leaner AFR promotes a higher EGT's and higher EGT's generate more heat through the exhaust and spool the turbo faster.
I was trying to get all my mechanical issues fixed before I started tuning but I did a quick tune flash to validate my theory and I just need to test it out.
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BV MotorSports
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Report this Post05-25-2013 08:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BV MotorSportsClick Here to Email BV MotorSportsSend a Private Message to BV MotorSportsEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by nosrac:


I needed to change the Turbo drain line because the 90* bend wasn't allowing the oil to drain properly and caused smoke out the exhaust on extended idling. So I ordered a new one and MstangsBware put it on after he changed the oil pan gasket and Timing chain gasket.
But now, the new drain line is leaking...lol So I need to change that out again, then it should be ready...I hope.
I put a new tune on her and did a case learn (which stopped my surging issue).


When I had the stock type plugs on the AFR was perfect and it spooled up fast as hell, but the spark would blow out in higher rpm's
So, I changed the plugs to AL 103 @ .045 gap to fix the blowout issue but I didn't change the tune making my AFR pretty rich. (colder plugs, smaller gap)
Since the turbo didn't spool like before the plug change. I assumed it was because I had too much gap on the plugs.
However after doing some research I think my problem is the tune. For a turbo application, I think the tune (AFR) needs to be on the lean side in the low RPM range for better low end torque off the line.
The theory being, the leaner AFR promotes a higher EGT's and higher EGT's generate more heat through the exhaust and spool the turbo faster.
I was trying to get all my mechanical issues fixed before I started tuning but I did a quick tune flash to validate my theory and I just need to test it out.


I'm no tuner but I know from dicking around with the tune for my many scoobies and Evo they had a section in ECUFlash for "lean spool". With that said, your reasoning is sound.
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nosrac
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Report this Post05-31-2013 07:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for nosracSend a Private Message to nosracEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I made a drain line out of old braided hose and fittings but that started leaking like a mofo. Apparently different vendors drain kits are not compatible.
This damn steel braided drain line is kicking my royal azz so I finally order a -10AN barb fitting and high temp silicone drain hose as the braided stainless steel hose is more trouble than I want to deal with.
I know that there are local hose shops that could build me one but I can't seem to find any close. (ebay to the rescue)

I also found out that my LTFT fuel trims are stuck at -9.3 (rich). No matter what I did they do NOT change. I know BV had this same issue and I also had it before.
I am not sure if a case learn, Full write, or disconnecting the battery cleared it up before. I know when I swapped to a different PCM it fixed the trims but I thought I fixed the other PCM too?.
Mstangs seems to thing it may be a vac leak as the trims were fine before it went to the alignment shop. As a matter of fact they were perfect.

As soon as I get the hose from ebay then it is test and tune...LOL
That is until I find another issue. I still can't get the oil sender from pegging...grrr
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Report this Post05-31-2013 07:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for LFiero67Click Here to Email LFiero67Send a Private Message to LFiero67Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Stock fiero oil pressure gauge should peg with a 3800 engine. Stock 3800 oil pressure is higher than the fiero gauge reads. Only time mine isn't pegged is hot idle. As soon as I come off idle, it is full again.

Took mine for a quick drive last night. 18 psi on the two step was more than my spare axle could take... Car didn't move, sheared the shaft at the snap ring groove. Even the wet rainy road couldn't save the axle lol, guess the suspension likes the new tires .

I'm sure you'll get yours sorted out. Might want to look at the oxygen sensor, mine died over the winter, caused all kinds of issues.

------------------
10.263 @ 134.44MPH - 1.49 60'
Billet 6262 Precision turbo, PT1001 intercooler, ST1 cam, 130lb springs, comp pushrods, HV3, ARP Rod bolts, otherwise stock L36.


Old M90 XP Cam time -
11.425 @115.60
1.543 60'

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Report this Post05-31-2013 07:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FormulaSend a Private Message to FormulaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by LFiero67:

Took mine for a quick drive last night. 18 psi on the two step


it got traction?

Mine can hold about 3psi before it starts spinning. What do you have done to it suspension wise?
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Report this Post05-31-2013 07:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for LFiero67Click Here to Email LFiero67Send a Private Message to LFiero67Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I think it just hit the axle too hard. Never had a chance to spin. It was at 3000 rpm on the two step and 18 lbs boost. Released two step and it snapped right away, it was a rebuild spare I had, and I didn't really trust it to begin with.. The new tires are 255/60r15 drag radials, seem to work good, ran it at 3/4 throttle with 10 lbs and they held, even with the slightly wet roads. Suspension is poly bushings, Monroe struts, stock springs with fronts cut one coil. 215/60r15 front tires. Weight balance is probably rear biased, which helps, and the car transfers back well. Best 60' on true street tires was a 1.71, it has always worked well.
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Report this Post05-31-2013 07:58 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FormulaSend a Private Message to FormulaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by LFiero67:

I think it just hit the axle too hard. Never had a chance to spin. It was at 3000 rpm on the two step and 18 lbs boost. Released two step and it snapped right away, it was a rebuild spare I had, and I didn't really trust it to begin with.. The new tires are 255/60r15 drag radials, seem to work good, ran it at 3/4 throttle with 10 lbs and they held, even with the slightly wet roads. Suspension is poly bushings, Monroe struts, stock springs with fronts cut one coil. 215/60r15 front tires. Weight balance is probably rear biased, which helps, and the car transfers back well. Best 60' on true street tires was a 1.71, it has always worked well.


Do you feather the throttle at all off the 2 step, or is it just floored the entire way?
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Report this Post05-31-2013 09:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for LFiero67Click Here to Email LFiero67Send a Private Message to LFiero67Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
WOT. Without the two step it will push through the brakes, on the two step it will sit. Might have to get a tighter converter now that brakes are working better.
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Report this Post05-31-2013 09:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for nosracSend a Private Message to nosracEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by LFiero67:

Stock fiero oil pressure gauge should peg with a 3800 engine. Stock 3800 oil pressure is higher than the fiero gauge reads. Only time mine isn't pegged is hot idle. As soon as I come off idle, it is full again.

I'm sure you'll get yours sorted out. Might want to look at the oxygen sensor, mine died over the winter, caused all kinds of issues.



I got the NAPA equilivant and it is still pegged. I may try the Delco1808A just for the hell of it.

 
quote
Originally posted by BV MotorSports:


Look at the vid, you can see the gauge. Works PERFECT! I got this info from Timm's directions that came with the harness:

Oil pressure sender- '88 2.5L or 2.8. Delco 1808A or 10096181 or equivalent.

CTS Delco 213815 or 10096181 or equivalent


If the O2 sensor is hosed would the STFT still work? Only mine the LTFT's are screwed as they stopped moving.

[This message has been edited by nosrac (edited 05-31-2013).]

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Report this Post05-31-2013 09:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for LFiero67Click Here to Email LFiero67Send a Private Message to LFiero67Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
There is a limit in the PCM for how far the STFT and LTFT can go. I can't remember what limit is, but if you hit it, it won't go any further. If the O2 died full rich, the PCM will pull fuel to the limit trying to get the o2 to respond. It will eventually set a code, but likely need a drive cycle first.

Fiero gauge only reads 50 psi, 3800 makes up to 85 psi at the sensor port. Put a mechanical test gauge on the port and see whàt it reads. I'd be more concerned if the gauge isn't maxed out. Mine did that when I got going in the oil and wiped out all the bearings.
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Report this Post05-31-2013 10:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JustinbartSend a Private Message to JustinbartEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
My fiero gauge goes up to 80. Cold start idle is 60. Hot idle is 40+ and raises up to 60ish off idle. I've never had a mechanical gauge on it so who knows if it's right.
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Report this Post05-31-2013 11:25 PM Click Here to See the Profile for nosracSend a Private Message to nosracEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by LFiero67:

Fiero gauge only reads 50 psi, 3800 makes up to 85 psi at the sensor port. Put a mechanical test gauge on the port and see whàt it reads. I'd be more concerned if the gauge isn't maxed out. Mine did that when I got going in the oil and wiped out all the bearings.


Are the 88 gauges different? The only difference than before the turbo install is the addition of the T port to the turbo feed. Before it read high but it never pegged.
Maybe the restrictor on the turbo feed line is causing more pressure? BV is NOT running a restrictor and I don't think Justin is either.
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Report this Post06-01-2013 02:32 AM Click Here to See the Profile for JustinbartSend a Private Message to JustinbartEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
No restrictor on my car or Formula's. I can't remember how his car was but I believe it was similar to mine.

------------------
Turbo 3800 E85 F23 5spd spec5
11.17@132.6

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Report this Post06-01-2013 12:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JncomuttClick Here to Email JncomuttSend a Private Message to JncomuttEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I run 3an no restrictor feed line.
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Report this Post06-01-2013 12:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BV MotorSportsClick Here to Email BV MotorSportsSend a Private Message to BV MotorSportsEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by nosrac:


Are the 88 gauges different? The only difference than before the turbo install is the addition of the T port to the turbo feed. Before it read high but it never pegged.
Maybe the restrictor on the turbo feed line is causing more pressure? BV is NOT running a restrictor and I don't think Justin is either.


Phonedawgz mentioned to me about two different senders to use. The typical 3800 one and some other one that will work for cars that the oil pressure pegs. IIRC its toward the end of my build thread. And you are right, I am not running a restrictor on my oil feed to the turbo.
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Report this Post06-01-2013 01:34 PM Click Here to See the Profile for nosracSend a Private Message to nosracEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by BV MotorSports:

I am not running a restrictor on my oil feed to the turbo.


So, can I assume restrictor = pegged needle as I don't think it is the sender.

Either that or the Delco sender has something the imitators don't.
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Report this Post06-02-2013 01:48 AM Click Here to See the Profile for LFiero67Click Here to Email LFiero67Send a Private Message to LFiero67Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I'm not running a restrictor, and also running a aftermarket sending unit with the Cavalier Digital Dash. However with the stock GT gauge and a few different sending units, it was pegged as well.

In other news, it looks like my torque converter failed tonight. Makes bad noises shifting into gear, and driving under light load. I'm out of patience and out of money right now, so it will have to sit. Was really hoping for the 9 second pass next weekend, but it's not to be.

------------------
10.263 @ 134.44MPH - 1.49 60'
Billet 6262 Precision turbo, PT1001 intercooler, ST1 cam, 130lb springs, comp pushrods, HV3, ARP Rod bolts, otherwise stock L36.


Old M90 XP Cam time -
11.425 @115.60
1.543 60'

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Report this Post06-02-2013 02:20 AM Click Here to See the Profile for mattwaClick Here to Email mattwaSend a Private Message to mattwaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by LFiero67:

I'm not running a restrictor, and also running a aftermarket sending unit with the Cavalier Digital Dash. However with the stock GT gauge and a few different sending units, it was pegged as well.

In other news, it looks like my torque converter failed tonight. Makes bad noises shifting into gear, and driving under light load. I'm out of patience and out of money right now, so it will have to sit. Was really hoping for the 9 second pass next weekend, but it's not to be.



Man, sorry to hear that. That's the problem with swaps such as this, transverse transmissions just can't hold the power without a very expensive build, and even then there is no guarantee. This goes for any commonly used transmission with this swap, 4T65eHD, F23, F40, etc. Not counting the 282, 4-speed muncie etc, because they don't really stand a chance.
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Report this Post06-02-2013 08:34 AM Click Here to See the Profile for JncomuttClick Here to Email JncomuttSend a Private Message to JncomuttEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
80% progress on my solution to that. Although no major F23 failure from me yet....

[This message has been edited by Jncomutt (edited 06-02-2013).]

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Report this Post06-02-2013 10:13 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 1fast2m4Send a Private Message to 1fast2m4Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Justinbart:

My fiero gauge goes up to 80. Cold start idle is 60. Hot idle is 40+ and raises up to 60ish off idle. I've never had a mechanical gauge on it so who knows if it's right.



That's exactly how mine is. I do have a Autometer 0-100psi mechanical gauge "T"ed off the stock sending unit orifice . 61-64psi cold start, 41-43psi Hot idle and 55-58ish hot anytime up off idle.

------------------
1986 SE 3800SC/4t65eHD (12.871@104.96)
1985 GT 3800SC (swap in progress)

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Report this Post06-02-2013 10:47 AM Click Here to See the Profile for FormulaSend a Private Message to FormulaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by 1fast2m4:
That's exactly how mine is. I do have a Autometer 0-100psi mechanical gauge "T"ed off the stock sending unit orifice . 61-64psi cold start, 41-43psi Hot idle and 55-58ish hot anytime up off idle.




Same here, hot idle is around 50, cold idle is 60, I don't remember off idle though.

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Report this Post06-02-2013 04:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for mattwaClick Here to Email mattwaSend a Private Message to mattwaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Jncomutt:

80% progress on my solution to that. Although no major F23 failure from me yet....



Oh that's right, I was going by what happened with JustinB, I thought he killed his F23, but then I remembered he put it back together wrong the first time (if I'm not mistaken) and killed the output shaft bearing area.

4T80e...I thought some people tried that in the past in a Grand Prix, but they had too much trouble with getting the electronics to work with the 3800 PCM? Now that I think about it, you went aftermarket anyway for the 3800, right? I wonder what the 80e can actually take, it better be alot considering the weight penalty you are taking...

[This message has been edited by mattwa (edited 06-02-2013).]

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Report this Post06-02-2013 04:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for darkhorizonSend a Private Message to darkhorizonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
No 65e failures of any type from over here yet.. Takes a beating and never asks questions.
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Report this Post06-02-2013 04:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for LFiero67Click Here to Email LFiero67Send a Private Message to LFiero67Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Dark, you hardly beat on that trans, your 1.7+ 60' times are easy on the trans. You talk about your axles never breaking and no trans failures, but haven't done anything that others haven't done on bone stock transmissions. Its easy to put lots of power through the parts once your moving, the first 10-20 feet is where the damage is done. When you start making 10+ lbs on the line, and leave with the wheels up, then you can talk to me about parts failures. I'll say it again, your 60' times, I did 8 years ago with a bone stock 4t60e, on street tires with half your HP. When you hit your trans with nitrous and everything else you have planned, then you might start to see the issues myself and others who 60' hard have seen. If you continue to make supra style runs with big mph and ET that doesn't match, I'm sure you'll continue to not break anything.

------------------
10.263 @ 134.44MPH - 1.49 60'
Billet 6262 Precision turbo, PT1001 intercooler, ST1 cam, 130lb springs, comp pushrods, HV3, ARP Rod bolts, otherwise stock L36.


Old M90 XP Cam time -
11.425 @115.60
1.543 60'

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LFiero67
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Report this Post06-02-2013 04:47 PM Click Here to See the Profile for LFiero67Click Here to Email LFiero67Send a Private Message to LFiero67Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

LFiero67

819 posts
Member since Jun 2002
Sorry Nosrac and everyone else for that post, sometimes Darks BS pushes my buttons.
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Formula
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Report this Post06-02-2013 04:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FormulaSend a Private Message to FormulaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by mattwa:


Oh that's right, I was going by what happened with JustinB, I thought he killed his F23, but then I remembered he put it back together wrong the first time (if I'm not mistaken) and killed the output shaft bearing area.

4T80e...I thought some people tried that in the past in a Grand Prix, but they had too much trouble with getting the electronics to work with the 3800 PCM? Now that I think about it, you went aftermarket anyway for the 3800, right? I wonder what the 80e can actually take, it better be alot considering the weight penalty you are taking...



zzp is working on a 1" chain for the 65e. That will probably be better than the 80. I have the fully built 65 from zzp, but I haven't had any fast 60's. My last time at the drag strip it did 0-60 in 2.42 (calculated) seconds with a 1.8 60'...
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Formula
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Report this Post06-02-2013 05:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FormulaSend a Private Message to FormulaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
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Originally posted by LFiero67:

WOT. Without the two step it will push through the brakes, on the two step it will sit. Might have to get a tighter converter now that brakes are working better.


How much of a burnout are you doing? I can't figure out why I'm spinning over 3psi. I get better traction on the street.

I'm not going to be able to do a full 1/4 pull for around 2 months now because of scheduling issues, so I might tinker with the suspension some. I have 235/60/15 mt et streets tire wise.

[This message has been edited by Formula (edited 06-02-2013).]

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mattwa
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Report this Post06-02-2013 05:05 PM Click Here to See the Profile for mattwaClick Here to Email mattwaSend a Private Message to mattwaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
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Originally posted by LFiero67:

Dark, you hardly beat on that trans, your 1.7+ 60' times are easy on the trans. You talk about your axles never breaking and no trans failures, but haven't done anything that others haven't done on bone stock transmissions. Its easy to put lots of power through the parts once your moving, the first 10-20 feet is where the damage is done. When you start making 10+ lbs on the line, and leave with the wheels up, then you can talk to me about parts failures. I'll say it again, your 60' times, I did 8 years ago with a bone stock 4t60e, on street tires with half your HP. When you hit your trans with nitrous and everything else you have planned, then you might start to see the issues myself and others who 60' hard have seen. If you continue to make supra style runs with big mph and ET that doesn't match, I'm sure you'll continue to not break anything.


What's the big deal about pushing faster then 1.7 60' times if it start breaking things? I certainly wouldn't take that risk, but then again I may not be a true drag racer like you are.
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LFiero67
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Report this Post06-02-2013 05:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for LFiero67Click Here to Email LFiero67Send a Private Message to LFiero67Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Enough to get the tires smoking. If you watch the video in my first turbo passes thread, that is a normal burnout for me. Do you have a line lock? That helps alot in getting them warm, I release the lock, and burnout out of the water, until the tires squawk. That way they are dry, and gripping. The 235/60r15 mt drag radials are what I have run up until now, they should work for you, 23-24 psi is where I ran them.
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LFiero67
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Report this Post06-02-2013 05:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for LFiero67Click Here to Email LFiero67Send a Private Message to LFiero67Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
It's not a big deal, but for him to say he's never broken anything, every time I post about an issue, it gets old, I shouldn't let it bug me, but it does. Guys like FieroX, Don Kraus, etc that have run 1.4 and 1.5 60' times have seen the same issues I have. I've got no issue with people taking it easy out of the hole to save parts, but I don't see anyone else talking about their lack of failures when someone else has issues. It's just trolling, and I guess i should expect it from him.
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Formula
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Report this Post06-02-2013 05:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FormulaSend a Private Message to FormulaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by LFiero67:

Enough to get the tires smoking. If you watch the video in my first turbo passes thread, that is a normal burnout for me. Do you have a line lock? That helps alot in getting them warm, I release the lock, and burnout out of the water, until the tires squawk. That way they are dry, and gripping. The 235/60r15 mt drag radials are what I have run up until now, they should work for you, 23-24 psi is where I ran them.


no line lock. If I can't get a good burn out I'll add one. I just spun enough to clean off the tires, so I'll try holding it some to get some smoke. I'm really only looking for mid 10s so I don't think I'll need a monster launch like what you can do.
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