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My $50 Paint Job. (Rustoleum. 56k BEWARE) by Dudeus
Started on: 04-02-2008 10:09 PM
Replies: 294
Last post by: Docs87gt on 11-23-2010 01:07 PM
SLAMMED87GT
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Report this Post01-18-2009 11:47 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SLAMMED87GTClick Here to Email SLAMMED87GTSend a Private Message to SLAMMED87GTDirect Link to This Post
It looks like a booby to me!!

------------------

'87 GT *Show winning* sold
'98.5 BMW M3 Dakar Dinan S3-4
'89 BMW 325I Zinnoberrot Stock

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86stealthfiero
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Report this Post01-19-2009 01:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 86stealthfieroClick Here to Email 86stealthfieroSend a Private Message to 86stealthfieroDirect Link to This Post
i guess it could only the fact that you can see its a blanket laid on a plymouth voyager spare seat (and i thought my mind stayed in the gutters all the time) lol.
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Fosgatecavy98
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Report this Post01-19-2009 02:14 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fosgatecavy98Send a Private Message to Fosgatecavy98Direct Link to This Post
Well im getting ready to put the first coat of paint on, wish me luck.
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Report this Post01-20-2009 12:53 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 86stealthfieroClick Here to Email 86stealthfieroSend a Private Message to 86stealthfieroDirect Link to This Post
eh youll be fine just make sure you get your mix ratio right and get them panels smooth and you'll be fine
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Dan Ro
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Report this Post01-21-2009 06:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Dan RoClick Here to Email Dan RoSend a Private Message to Dan RoDirect Link to This Post
What do you guys plan on doing concerning a clear coat?
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Report this Post01-21-2009 07:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 2.5Send a Private Message to 2.5Direct Link to This Post
Glossy paint could be polished you may not need clearcoat. If you get clear it has to be the same "type" of paint. such as Enamel, Acrylic, etc from what I understand.
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Report this Post01-21-2009 11:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 86stealthfieroClick Here to Email 86stealthfieroSend a Private Message to 86stealthfieroDirect Link to This Post
paint already has clearcoat in it.
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Report this Post01-25-2009 10:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fosgatecavy98Send a Private Message to Fosgatecavy98Direct Link to This Post

first coat.

around the handles and such, how do I get rid of the 'lines' that i put there with the small brush? should I jab it on or what?
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Report this Post01-26-2009 12:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JPWClick Here to Email JPWSend a Private Message to JPWDirect Link to This Post
If you are getting lines it is a bit too thick, it should self level and not leave brush strokes. If it is already there it just means a bit more sanding between coats but if it is really thick you need make sure you have given it ample drying time.

James
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Report this Post01-26-2009 01:25 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fosgatecavy98Send a Private Message to Fosgatecavy98Direct Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by JPW:

If you are getting lines it is a bit too thick, it should self level and not leave brush strokes. If it is already there it just means a bit more sanding between coats but if it is really thick you need make sure you have given it ample drying time.

James


When I say lines, like you see white/red brush looking lines like its not heavy enough. I am using a foam brush for the edges.
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Report this Post01-26-2009 03:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JPWClick Here to Email JPWSend a Private Message to JPWDirect Link to This Post
OK, If I am reading this right the brush results result in thinner coverage and you see the lines of the brush, is that right? If so It is tough to get the same coverage with the foam brush as it is with a roller but I loaded the brush and then took care of any runs/drips since I did a small area at a time. Since my mixture the pretty thin any runs leveled out and disappeared when I hit it with the roller.


My first, and only, foray into this so far was taking a gloss black car to primer to satin black. It took several coats to get complete coverage, it really looks like a$$ the first couple of coats but as it starts to build it looks great. I also used polyurethane boat paint but the concept is exactly the same.
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Report this Post01-27-2009 10:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fosgatecavy98Send a Private Message to Fosgatecavy98Direct Link to This Post
Yeah most of the lines I took care of on the second coat. Im letting it sit for about 50 hours before I sand again. I noticed some runs around the trim on the pass side and a few on the bumper. Should I sand with 400 or 500? I finished sanding at 400 then painted.
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Report this Post01-28-2009 03:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Arns85GTClick Here to Email Arns85GTSend a Private Message to Arns85GTDirect Link to This Post
I spoke to someone at Rustoleum Canada which sell the Tremclad brand. They advise that they do not endorse the thinning required to roll a car but acknowledge it can be done. They advise the curing time is close to 2 weeks because thinning more increases the cure time. They were talking in terms of 50 days total cure time.

They also advise that their clear coat is not as hard as automotive clear coat and advised waiting the 50 days to apply automotive clear over Tremclad.

So here is the key I guess. You do it when the car can be parked for about a month.

That works for a guy like me, but not for everyone I'd say.

It certainly has me thinking.

Arn
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Report this Post01-28-2009 09:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fosgatecavy98Send a Private Message to Fosgatecavy98Direct Link to This Post
Well mine is parked till mid-april so that shouldnt be a problem. lol

still looking for answers to my previous post
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Report this Post01-28-2009 11:56 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fosgatecavy98Send a Private Message to Fosgatecavy98Direct Link to This Post
Ok I started wetsanding, now it was slighlty bumpy before wetsanding, should it be really smooth after I am done? Its smooth in a dull 'red' in some areas, then some it area's its just as smooth but is dull and dark red.

Also, how smooth should it be? Would small bumps make a difference in the final product? Ive found alot of runs, and have ended up using a 360grit to get them out, as well.
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Report this Post01-29-2009 07:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 86stealthfieroClick Here to Email 86stealthfieroSend a Private Message to 86stealthfieroDirect Link to This Post
sorry i took so long to post a certain cat ate my power cord (8 lives to go) anyways i had the same issue when painting as well i would get drips around the lower part of some panels by the molding i simply sanded it down with 400 if it still was visible i went to the next grit of paper 320 or 220 if its severe you may to go to a lower grit and i blocked sanded anything major. if you have faint lines they will go away with further coats of paint applied. the thing i notice with the paint is anything like drips etc will show up no matter what if you dont sand them out as for the bumpy look (orange peel) depending on the grit paper your using sand them out and get the panel as smooth as possible because if you dont sand them out it builds up and your panel will look like crap. when i did my car i used 220 400 alot of 600 and 800 and used 1000 grit as my last grit 400 and 600 i used to smooth out the panels. when wetsanding let the panel completely dry so you can see where you need to sand i find it best to sand until there is no orange peel or panel is smooth and alot of the work is in the paint when i painted i put 200ml of paint to 200ml thinner or 50/50 its runny but what happens is it self levels out and after a few coats just make sure you use the weight of the roller and go over any runs.after a few coats youll start to see where you may need to work on an area but id rather sand thin coats of paint thin thick coats.
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Report this Post01-29-2009 07:07 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 86stealthfieroClick Here to Email 86stealthfieroSend a Private Message to 86stealthfieroDirect Link to This Post

86stealthfiero

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youll have define small bumps if its visible then yes it will show in the final result. stuff like dust isnt anything to worry about but any bumps will show thru.

[This message has been edited by 86stealthfiero (edited 01-29-2009).]

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Report this Post01-29-2009 11:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JPWClick Here to Email JPWSend a Private Message to JPWDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Arns85GT:

I spoke to someone at Rustoleum Canada which sell the Tremclad brand. They advise that they do not endorse the thinning required to roll a car but acknowledge it can be done. They advise the curing time is close to 2 weeks because thinning more increases the cure time. They were talking in terms of 50 days total cure time.

They also advise that their clear coat is not as hard as automotive clear coat and advised waiting the 50 days to apply automotive clear over Tremclad.

So here is the key I guess. You do it when the car can be parked for about a month.

That works for a guy like me, but not for everyone I'd say.

It certainly has me thinking.

Arn


That just seems to go against everything I have read or experienced with this method. The thinned mixture had a much quicker dry time than an un-thinned coat. Try it on a piece of scrap and it is pretty interesting to compare. I guess "dry" and "cure" mean different things to a paint expert so maybe that could be the case.


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Report this Post01-29-2009 11:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JPWClick Here to Email JPWSend a Private Message to JPWDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Fosgatecavy98:

Ok I started wetsanding, now it was slighlty bumpy before wetsanding, should it be really smooth after I am done? Its smooth in a dull 'red' in some areas, then some it area's its just as smooth but is dull and dark red.

Also, how smooth should it be? Would small bumps make a difference in the final product? Ive found alot of runs, and have ended up using a 360grit to get them out, as well.


The bumps will build up and be noticeable in the end and it should be smooooooth, your prep work is key at this point, what is causing the bumps? Depending on how hard you are sanding and how much coverage is in the particular area your color may indeed be different. We had a lot of runs on the first fender we did and everyone told us to slow down, load the roller and don't put too much pressure on it when applying the paint and that worked. We also grabbed a junk fender to practice, which we should have done in the first place. We used 400 for sanding down the runs and some body guys fussed at us and told to smooth it out with 600 and as we put on more coats to keep working out way to a finer grit or else the sanding swirl marks would show up. I wish we had taken pictures but I am horrible about taking them when I work on stuff.
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Report this Post01-30-2009 01:43 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Fosgatecavy98Send a Private Message to Fosgatecavy98Direct Link to This Post
Well I just got done of a 1 1/2 hour of wetsanding and a total of 2.5 hours or so, I am still feeling some areas of bumps, everything seems smooth but the bumps are still there. They are driving me nuts! Ive sanded down to the original white paint in a few areas as well. But overall it seems to be going. I would of thought wetsanding to take a while but this is lonnnnnnnnggggggggg. lol I hope to put the 3rd coat on by tomorrow, we will see.
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Report this Post01-30-2009 04:22 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 86stealthfieroClick Here to Email 86stealthfieroSend a Private Message to 86stealthfieroDirect Link to This Post
wetsanding is a long process and its the longest of the whole project. when you say you sanded down to the original paint your sanding to much i know this explains nothing but this process is tedious. if you have a run sometimes using the flat part of a razerblade works too as far as sanding sand the run smooth and continue to layer up the paint.because you sanded thru to the original paint in one area means youll have to layer the paint back up in that area. for example the previous owner of my car attempted this process and really messed up things drips etc i spent over a month sanding and working my panels back to being really smooth
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Report this Post01-30-2009 04:23 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 86stealthfieroClick Here to Email 86stealthfieroSend a Private Message to 86stealthfieroDirect Link to This Post

86stealthfiero

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quote
Originally posted by JPW:


The bumps will build up and be noticeable in the end and it should be smooooooth, your prep work is key at this point, what is causing the bumps? Depending on how hard you are sanding and how much coverage is in the particular area your color may indeed be different. We had a lot of runs on the first fender we did and everyone told us to slow down, load the roller and don't put too much pressure on it when applying the paint and that worked. We also grabbed a junk fender to practice, which we should have done in the first place. We used 400 for sanding down the runs and some body guys fussed at us and told to smooth it out with 600 and as we put on more coats to keep working out way to a finer grit or else the sanding swirl marks would show up. I wish we had taken pictures but I am horrible about taking them when I work on stuff.

lol i actually have tons of photos before and after

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Report this Post01-30-2009 11:25 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Fosgatecavy98Send a Private Message to Fosgatecavy98Direct Link to This Post
^^^^ Please post them!
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Report this Post02-06-2009 07:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fosgatecavy98Send a Private Message to Fosgatecavy98Direct Link to This Post
bump. just to make sure, i am sanding with larger grits to smaller grits between coats, not a single grit only between coats?

I was just told what orange peel was today, and all of my panels r completed in this so i will be spending the night on em

Im also going to try thinning the mix up I was using a 1/4qt and just under 50ml of mineral spirts.

I was doing 2 coats then sanding, which probably the reason im going to be sanding so much...
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Report this Post02-06-2009 08:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fosgatecavy98Send a Private Message to Fosgatecavy98Direct Link to This Post






You can see what I am talking about in pictures 1 and 2 pretty good, hard to get the camera to pick it all up. This is going to be a PITA
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Report this Post02-06-2009 08:34 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 86stealthfieroClick Here to Email 86stealthfieroSend a Private Message to 86stealthfieroDirect Link to This Post
when you mix the paint pour 200ml of paint in and then 20 ml of spirits. 50/50 is 50 percent paint 50 percent mineral spitits. orange peel can be sanded out i use 600 and work with that all the way up to 1000 and even 2000 grit if 600 doesnt smooth everything out go down to 400 but only to 400 snything below this will leave noticable scrathes.
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Report this Post02-06-2009 11:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fosgatecavy98Send a Private Message to Fosgatecavy98Direct Link to This Post
So after the final coat do I sand w/ a super-fine grit or leave as-is?
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Report this Post02-07-2009 03:40 AM Click Here to See the Profile for AlibiClick Here to Email AlibiSend a Private Message to AlibiDirect Link to This Post
After the final coat you need to sand with 1000-2000 grit and then polish with a random orbit polisher. You can really get a nice shine out of the paint after that.

The real trick is in the paint itself. You want to use a high-density 4" foam roller... two actually. Get your paint to about the consistency of milk via mineral spirits and then wet the first roller with paint. Squeeze out as much paint as you can and then start on a small section of the car. You will probably get some small bubbles and runs. The real beauty is that the thinned paint will self-level some but the real trick is to use a second, "dry" roller to go back after the initial paint has been laid down and go over it again. This not only helps decrease the bubbles, but it promotes a smoother surface finish.

As for the total coats... it depends. In general, you're looking at 6-8, maybe more depending on whether you are going for a color change or to hide lots of different colors or even what color you are using. At the very least, use 400 and then 600 grit wet sand paper between every other coat. This smooths out any imperfections as you go and it promotes adhesion for the additional layers.

I've done a lot of research on the topic as I painted my '89 Buick last summer. I only did 4 coats since I was only looking to get the car one color (it had panels from other cars, bondo, bare metal, primer, and finally a bit of the original paint...) and I plan on re-doing the paint this summer and polishing it to really get it to look right. I'm also going to paint my '88 Buick that I'm working on converting to a Bonneville after I'm done with the body work.

The roller method works, and it works well. Granted its not for a show car, but for a DD its great.

Oh, and Hi

[This message has been edited by Alibi (edited 02-07-2009).]

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Report this Post02-08-2009 03:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fosgatecavy98Send a Private Message to Fosgatecavy98Direct Link to This Post
Bump for more advice!
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Report this Post02-08-2009 07:49 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 86stealthfieroClick Here to Email 86stealthfieroSend a Private Message to 86stealthfieroDirect Link to This Post
personnaly i dident buff the paint out after my last grit of paper i had problems in that area no compound i bought really brought the shine back just sand your runs out and orangepeel if you have any and work your way up to higher grade paper and let the paint due the work.
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Report this Post02-09-2009 11:16 AM Click Here to See the Profile for joevetoClick Here to Email joevetoSend a Private Message to joevetoDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Arns85GT:

I spoke to someone at Rustoleum Canada which sell the Tremclad brand. They advise that they do not endorse the thinning required to roll a car but acknowledge it can be done. They advise the curing time is close to 2 weeks because thinning more increases the cure time. They were talking in terms of 50 days total cure time.

They also advise that their clear coat is not as hard as automotive clear coat and advised waiting the 50 days to apply automotive clear over Tremclad.

So here is the key I guess. You do it when the car can be parked for about a month.

That works for a guy like me, but not for everyone I'd say. Arn


I believe this.

I noticed the paint did not quite buff out as well, immediately after, as it does now (months after). But I've been driving the car in the meantime. And so far, I've not noticed any negative side effects. The car has been subjected to salt, road grime, rocks thrown by semis, and the paint is solid. As soon as it's warm, I'm going to crack open an ice cold beer and get to work with the sanding and polishing.

 
quote
As for the total coats... it depends. In general, you're looking at 6-8, maybe more depending on whether you are going for a color change or to hide lots of different colors or even what color you are using. At the very least, use 400 and then 600 grit wet sand paper between every other coat. This smooths out any imperfections as you go and it promotes adhesion for the additional layers.


I ran with a thicker mixture, and fewer coats. The car looks great. Thin the paint to milk consistency, and you're going to be there a long time with runs on the vertical surfaces. I did a 10:1 paint to thinner ratio and found the job to be quick, durable, and nice looking. Also, with fewer coats, you're going to be sanding less, with less garbage in the paint.


------------------
Spent my days with a woman unkind Smoked my stuff and drank all my wine...

[This message has been edited by joeveto (edited 02-09-2009).]

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Report this Post02-09-2009 01:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 86stealthfieroClick Here to Email 86stealthfieroSend a Private Message to 86stealthfieroDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by joeveto:


I ran with a thicker mixture, and fewer coats. The car looks great. Thin the paint to milk consistency, and you're going to be there a long time with runs on the vertical surfaces. I did a 10:1 paint to thinner ratio and found the job to be quick, durable, and nice looking. Also, with fewer coats, you're going to be sanding less, with less garbage in the paint.



yep the clear doesnt buff out well and ive noticed the cure time differences as well ive been playing with the paint for awhile and for the most part i understand the process and its one of those feel for type things. i gave up on buffing and polishing and on my last few coats i just made sure i had no runs and so fourth and pretty much called it a day ive got about 2 months worth of sanding and painting mainly because the car was black so it required more coats but seeing that maaco and places like them do not put forth any effort into prep i think the idea of the rustoleum paint is great and knowing that you did it. when the paint has fully cured its very durable i even applied it the my van for touching up some areas and it really worked out good.
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Report this Post02-12-2009 05:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 86stealthfieroClick Here to Email 86stealthfieroSend a Private Message to 86stealthfieroDirect Link to This Post
any progress fosgate
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Report this Post02-12-2009 09:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fosgatecavy98Send a Private Message to Fosgatecavy98Direct Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by 86stealthfiero:

any progress fosgate


Still working on it. I just started sanding on the top portion of the car yesterday. I'm kinda doing about 100000x things at once so the sanding is taking longer.

Basically all the red needs one more coat and should be good... thank god.

I had to fill some cracks and shave my antenna hole so that got done earlier this week, my drives side door right about the trim was tore so I filled that in as well.

I need to get my bottom quarter panel off, the piece where the vent is located. Any idea how that comes off?

Hopefully get the white paint rolling next week!
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Report this Post02-15-2009 04:20 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 86stealthfieroClick Here to Email 86stealthfieroSend a Private Message to 86stealthfieroDirect Link to This Post
now i have a question has anyone ever used a clearcoat over this type of paint
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Report this Post02-15-2009 12:52 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fosgatecavy98Send a Private Message to Fosgatecavy98Direct Link to This Post
I was wondering the same actually.
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Report this Post02-15-2009 01:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for joevetoClick Here to Email joevetoSend a Private Message to joevetoDirect Link to This Post
I think the guys on the moparts forum did some experiments with CC. If I remember correctly, the paint was almost too shiney rather than a deep gloss. Honestly, when I look at my paint, I don't long for a CC. It's really more of a single stage paint.

Still might be worth a try...

------------------
Spent my days with a woman unkind Smoked my stuff and drank all my wine...

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Report this Post02-15-2009 04:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 86stealthfieroClick Here to Email 86stealthfieroSend a Private Message to 86stealthfieroDirect Link to This Post
well in some places the paint shines and in other it doesnt hmm maybe its the angl im looking at
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86stealthfiero
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Report this Post02-15-2009 04:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 86stealthfieroClick Here to Email 86stealthfieroSend a Private Message to 86stealthfieroDirect Link to This Post
i did read a forum where a guy used spar urethane for a gloss finish. im sure you could use an automotive clear but im still playing with this idea
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86stealthfiero
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Report this Post02-15-2009 04:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 86stealthfieroClick Here to Email 86stealthfieroSend a Private Message to 86stealthfieroDirect Link to This Post

86stealthfiero

667 posts
Member since Aug 2008
i did read a forum where a guy used spar urethane for a gloss finish. im sure you could use an automotive clear but im still playing with this idea

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