With the lightweight and the strength of Alumalite or similar corrugated aluminum panels, it would allow use of heavier materials elsewhere, like 3/4 MDO for the flooring. Beds could be of the inflatable Coleman style mattresses for additional weight savings. As I said, you can actually roll-form these panels in their thinner versions, if you have a large enough press.
I have a number of subdivision signs made from this 1/2 inch material that have been in place since the mid 90's. Most of them were lettered with computer cut Scotchlite materials. The reason for that is that lighting for entrance signs requires a dedicated power meter and the reflective materials made them visible at night. The same principal could be used to create your own custom trailer graphics. They have an edge finishing channel, too that snaps over the edges to keep out water and other materials.
Tom, the material I used didn't have a solid core. It was fluted inside like a sheet of cardboard. If you looked down between the surfaces you could see all the way through. I doubt it would have much insulation value, other than what the dead air space would provide. I guess you could put a thin sheet on either side of your framework and insulate between.
I started my quest to repair the water damage from storing it outside this past winter.
While I've got the sides off, I'm also working on upgrading the wiring, adding a couple more 12v circuits for additional lighting and options, as well as adding in 120v outlets inside the camper.
I'm also building a cabinet inside the camper to provide permanent storage rather than the cloth "hammock" shelf I had made previously.
Pictures as I take them to show my continued progress.
Edit: Every time someone expressed interest in the teardrop, I second guessed myself on selling it, and decided not to.
[This message has been edited by Synthesis (edited 07-03-2014).]
Originally posted by Synthesis: While I've got the sides off, I'm also working on upgrading the wiring, adding a couple more 12v circuits for additional lighting and options, as well as adding in 120v outlets inside the camper. Pictures as I take them to show my continued progress.
Might as well switch over to LED... Looking forward to pictures!
I started my quest to repair the water damage from storing it outside this past winter.
While I've got the sides off, I'm also working on upgrading the wiring, adding a couple more 12v circuits for additional lighting and options, as well as adding in 120v outlets inside the camper.
I'm also building a cabinet inside the camper to provide permanent storage rather than the cloth "hammock" shelf I had made previously.
Pictures as I take them to show my continued progress.
Edit: Every time someone expressed interest in the teardrop, I second guessed myself on selling it, and decided not to.
You are in a heavy snow area like we are, did you just cover it with a tarp last year? Lots of people who have campers with the flat roof do that up here and regret it in the spring because of the weight of the snow creating leaks on the roof. Best thing is to put it under a roof, arched is the strongest weight bearing kind but don't cheap out, buy the best one you can, if they even allow you to do that where you are. that is another problem for people who have campers and live in apartments as well. then you are stuck renting a garage or storage unit for them, yours is small enough to fit in a regular size garage though. If you can find one at a reasonable rental.
Please post pictures of the updates. I've enjoyed this thread in the past as I had plans on building one of these. But, the wife's idea of roughing it is Super-8 Motel, so I'm thinking of a camper shell for my truck instead.
I've been struggling with radiusing 1x1" aluminum angle in order to trim out the edges of the door openings. I can't get them to curve nicely, even with annealing the aluminum...
Have to try to find a bender, or find someone who can do an outside radius (the leg would stretch on the outside of the curve).
The new wood side is on, and new wiring has been added for some additional lighting circuits and the like. I've also added the 120v wiring, the circuit breaker panel and several electrical outlet boxes.
I'll post pics as soon as my site becomes available again.
I've been struggling with radiusing 1x1" aluminum angle in order to trim out the edges of the door openings. I can't get them to curve nicely, even with annealing the aluminum...
Have to try to find a bender, or find someone who can do an outside radius (the leg would stretch on the outside of the curve).
The new wood side is on, and new wiring has been added for some additional lighting circuits and the like. I've also added the 120v wiring, the circuit breaker panel and several electrical outlet boxes.
I'll post pics as soon as my site becomes available again.
Roller will bend that without distorting the stock to bad but if that is really a problem give yourself some extra length on the tube and cut it square after bending it. Most fab shops, some farmers who have their own machine shop, you would be surprised how many have a small set up just for repairing their own equipment.
